A DIARY 

Around the Worl 



30 COUNTRIES 
160 PLACES 
37,460 MILES 
EXPENSE $555 



C, B. STRUTH 




Book v-S t~£. 

GopightN? 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



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A DIARY 

AROUND THE WORLD 

30 COUNTRIES 
160 PLACES 
37,460 MILES 
EXPENSE, $555 



BT 

C. B. STRUTHERS 



1914 
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 



K 



%>+ 



Copyright, 1914 
C. B. STRUTHERS 



JUL lt> 1914 




CIA376908 



INTRODUCTION 

THE following is the diary of a world trip in which 
the writer visited 30 countries, 161 cities and 
towns, traveled 22,534 miles by water and 14,926 
miles by land. Spent the time from April 11, 1912, to May 
2, 1913, on the trip and only spent $555. This sum paid 
for everything with the exception of about twenty-five 
meals and a half a dozen lodgings. This means that I 
paid out good, hard money for every mile traveled for 
board, lodging, fees for museums, churches, etc. ; post cards, 
stamps and clothes. 

The countries I saw more or less of were : United States, 
Ireland, Scotland, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Nor- 
way, England, "Wales, Holland, Belgium, France, Switzer- 
land, Germany, Bohemia, Austria, Hungary, Italy, Greece, 
Egypt, Palestine, Arabia, India, Island of Ceylon, Straits 
Settlements, Philippines, China, Japan and Hawaii. 

The towns and cities visited were: Cleveland, Pitts- 
burgh, Washington, Alexandria, Baltimore, Philadelphia, 
New York, Jersey City and Brooklyn in the United States ; 
Queenstown, Cork, Blarney, Mallow, Killarney, Waterford, 
Enniscorthy, Dublin, Lucan, Leixlip, Maynooth, Athlone, 
Galway, Sligo, Manorhamilton, Londonderry, Ballymena 
and Belfast in Ireland; Ayr, Paisley, Glasgow, Dunoon, 
Bannockburn, Stirling, Perth, Scone, Inverness, Aberdeen, 
Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee, Edinburgh, Leith, Gal- 
ashiels and Abbotsford in Scotland; Copenhagen and 
Balerup in Denmark; Helsingborg, Halmstad, Astorp and 
Stockholm in Sweden ; St. Petersburg, Russia ; Helsingf ors 
and Hango, Finland; Christiansand and Christiania, Nor- 
way; Hull, Leeds, Bradford, Liverpool, Douglas, Isle of 
Man, Manchester, Sheffield, Ilkeston, Nottingham, Birming- 
ham, Stratford-on-Avon, Bristol, Bath, Swindon, Ox- 
ford, Greenwich and London in England; Cardiff and 
Llandaff in Wales; Rotterdam, The Hague, Scheveningen, 
Amsterdam, Zaandam, Haarlem and Ley den in Holland; 



INTRODUCTION 

Antwerp, Ghent, Brussels and Waterloo in Belgium ; Paris, 
Dijon, Dole, Mouchard and Pontalier in France ; Berne, 
Lucerne, Zurich and Basle in Switzerland; Strassburg, 
Karlsruhe, Heidelburg, Darmstadt, Frankfort-on-the- 
Main, Mayence, Bingen, Coblentz, Cologne, Dusseldorf, 
Essen, Bremen, Hamburg, Berlin, Potsdam, Leipsic and 
Dresden in Germany ; Prague, Bohemia ; Vienna and 
Trieste, Austria. Just went across a small corner of 
Hungary. Venice, Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome ; 
Naples, Pompeii and Brindisi, Italy ; Corfu, Patras, Piraeus 
and Athens, Greece ; Alexandria, Cairo, Port Said, and 
Suez, Egypt; Jaffa, Bethlehem, Bethany and Jerusalem, 
Palestine; Aden, Arabia; Bombay, Delhi, Lucknow, Cal- 
cutta, Madras and Tuticorin in India; Colombo, Ceylon; 
Penang and Singapore, Straits Settlements; Ho Ho and 
Manila, Philippines; Hongkong, Kowloon, Canton and 
Shanghai, China; Nagasaki, Kobe, Yokohama and Tokio, 
Japan; Honolulu, Hawaii; San Francisco, Oakland, Los 
Angeles, Burbank and Chicago in the United States. 

Anyone who reads the full account of the trip will have 
some idea of how I was enabled to make such a wonderful 
trip on such a small amount of money. 

C. B. STRUTHERS. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

United States 9 

Ireland 14 

Scotland ■ 20 

Denmark ." 31 

Sweden 37 

Finland 40 

Russia 41 

Norway 46 

England 51- 71 

Wales 68 

Holland 102 

Belgium 113 

France 123 

Switzerland 142 

Germany 152 

Bohemia 190 

Austria 194- 197 

Hungary 196 

Italy 202 

Greece 245 

Egypt 257- 277 

Palestine 261 

Arabia ; 293 

India " 299 

Island of Ceylon 330 

Straits Settlements 344 

Philippines 360 

China 373 

Japan 384 

Hawaii 401 

Railway and Boat Fares 414 



SUMMARY OF COST 



OF 



ENTIRE TRIP COVERING 
37,460 MILES 



Transportation on land, 14,926 miles $181.46 

Transportation on water, 22,534 miles 225.22 

Entrance Fees — Museums, Art Galleries, etc.. 27.35 

For Food 47.28 

For Lodging 39.64 

Clothing, Laundry, Barber, etc 17.80 

Postage 7.32 

Post Cards 5.16 

Loss — Changing Money 3.77 

Total $555.00 



A detailed list of the Transportation Cost, showing the 
Railroad and Boat rates between all points visited, ap- 
pears on pages 414, 415 and 416. 



A DIARY 

AROUND THE WORLD 



APRIL 11, 1912. Left Detroit at 7 :30 a. m. and ar- 
rived in Cleveland at 2 p. m. ; hustled out and saw a ball 
game. It was a fine scientific game; ran 11 innings and 
only one two-bagger made. Poor Cobb never made a hit, 
although he brought in one of the runs for Detroit. Score 
was 3 to 2 in favor of Cleveland. Had supper with an old 
Chatham friend and helped him and another man take 
up and relay in another house a large amount of linoleum. 
This was fine exercise, especially as I was tired already. 
Left at 11 :30 for Pittsburgh. 

APRIL 12. Arrived in Pittsburgh at 5 :30. Had break- 
fast and wandered around the city until 9 :30, then left 
for Washington, arriving at 7 :15. This was certainly a 
beautiful ride — such grand scenery, mostly mountains. 
The principal cities passed were : Alleghany, Harrisburg 
and Baltimore. I certainly enjoyed this day as well as 
a thumping headache would let me. I would not care to 
pay much per acre for the land, especially if I expected 
to use it for agricultural purposes. On my arrival in 
Washington, I had supper and hustled out to find a room. 

APRIL 13. Arose at 8. After breakfast hunted up the 
capitol, went through, looking at all the great pictures and 
paintings, statues, etc. Saw Congressman Doremus and 
got cards of admission to both houses. Heard two great 
speeches by Representative Mann of Illinois, and Senator 
Cummins of Iowa. Afterwards went through the Congres- 
sional library. Wonderful rare volumes of the first books 
printed. Two building maps of the city, first maps made 
of the world. Afterwards wandered around town until 
bedtime. Took a walk up to the Washington museum. 

9 



10 WASHINGTON 

APRIL 14. Arose at 8. After breakfast walked around 
until I located a church, and heard a very good sermon, 
then went out to Arlington cemetery and Fort Meyer. 
Went through the house belonging to C. W. Custis, grand- 
son of Martha Washington. Went to Bpworth League and 
to church and then to bed. This is a description of room 
and furniture : About 18 foot square by 12 foot high, 
grand massive bedstead, two beautifully upholstered set- 
tees, one chair, one large marble chiffonier, one ditto 
bureau, one magnificent gold trimmed pier glass, one stool 
and one marble topped table. For all this elegance I paid 
the large sum of fifty cents. 

APRIL 15. Arose at 7. After breakfast viewed the 
treasury, army, navy and state buildings, Corcoran 
museum; went through White House grounds and then 
went to Mount Vernon where I went through the, house 
and grounds and visited the tomb. It was an ideal day. 
Saw the old church in Alexandria that Washington at- 
tended at one time. Came back to the city and went to the 
top of Washington's monument. Wrote a card while 500 
feet in the air and sent to a Detroit friend. Left for Balti- 
more at 4 o'clock. Arrived at 5. Had supper of fried 
shad — never again. Wandered around the city until 9. 
Great excitement on account of loss of Titanic. 

APRIL 16. Arose at 6 :30. Breakfast of fried oysters 
— no more. Left at 8 for Philadelphia. Arrived at 10 :30. 
Stayed until 1 :30. Saw Federal Hall and other points of 
interest. 

Left at 1 :30 for New York by street car, ferry and un- 
derground. Having plenty of time was looking for a slow 
ride and certainly got it. Did not arrive in New York 
until 11 :30. Rode on six different cars and nearly wore 
out my pocket digging down for nickels, as the fare was 
taken up so often on each car. I had a fine opportunity to 
see something of the country and a number of towns on 
the way. 

APRIL 17. Went to steamship office. It starting to rain 
I made my way back to the hotel ; stayed there all day. It 



NEW YORK 11 

rained and then rained, and rained some more. This great 
hotel is a wonderful place ; had 1600 rooms. On the main 
floor there are four great rooms besides the main lobby. 
Right now while I am writing this there must be at least 
a thousand men scattered about these rooms. 

APRIL 18. Arose at 8; after breakfast traveled down 
Broadway and Fifth avenue for miles. Rubbered at 
dozens of noted buildings, called on Mr. Guernsey, a friend 
of a Detroit acquaintance of mine. Went into dozens of 
ticket offices seeking information, and finally found that 
I could get away on Saturday. Was in White Star offices 
and heard numbers of people inquiring for friends. The 
papers were full and there was nothing talked about but 
the Titanic disaster. 

APRIL 19. After breakfast read until 10 about the ar- 
rival of the Carpathia with the Titanic survivors. Started 
out and walked 8 or 10 miles ; was in ticket offices and had 
a look at the California. Had some thoughts of booking 
on her for Londonderry, but she did not look good to me. 
Held down the hotel all afternoon reading and took a short 
walk after supper and then went to bed. 

APRIL 20. After breakfast read until noon; had din- 
ner and took a long walk. Found the library and stayed 
there till 5 looking over atlases and reading. Went back to 
hotel, read a while and then got into conversation with a 
man about the West. Kept this up until supper time ; took 
a short walk and then went to bed. 

APRIL 21. After breakfast took a long walk down to 
the dock and located an old-fashioned Methodist Church, 
attending class and regular church services. In the after- 
noon attended a great memorial mass meeting for the 
Titanic dead. W. J. Bryan was among the many speakers. 
I walked four miles to attend a meeting at the Jerry Mc- 
Caully Mission on Water street and found they were just 
dedicating a beautiful new building. Had a splendid time 
and did not get home till 11. 



12 NEW YORK 

APRIL 22. After breakfast, with the exception of two 
short walks, stayed in the hotel all day as it was raining 
quite hard. Read the papers until noon and in afternoon 
and evening read a couple of favorite books. 

APRIL 23. After breakfast walked to Public Library 
and stayed until noon. In the afternoon went to Mill's 
Hotel, No. 3, and wrote for a couple of hours, then booked 
my passage on the Celtic. On the way up, about 4 o 'clock, 
I was taken with a severe pain in my left lung, which 
continued until 12, when I finally got relief. 

APRIL 24. Arose at 8. After breakfast went to 
library and read until noon. In the afternoon walked 
down Broadway to the postoffice, then went to Wall street 
to the subtreasury and then visited the stock exchange, 
afterward going to the White Star offices and stayed there 
for some time looking over time-tables. Then went through 
the Aquarium in the Old Castle Garden, afterwards to the 
library, reading until supper time, then a short walk and 
to bed. 

APRIL 25. Arose at 6. After breakfast took a car for 
White Star docks and sailed at noon. Stayed on deck all 
afternoon — it was simply grand. Watched the sun go 
down and then went below and listened to music until bed- 
time. A survivor of the Titanic 's crew was one of the per- 
formers on the piano. There were four in the same room 
with me — one of whom was a Baptist minister. 

APRIL 26. Arose at 7. After breakfast wrote in my 
diary on the upper deck for a while, and then read or lis- 
tened to music until noon. After noon divided time be- 
tween reading and listening to music and promenading 
deck. After supper, more music. 

APRIL 27. After breakfast — the boat had been rolling 
quite badly all night — was taken very sick and went to 
bed and stayed there. One of my roommates kept me com- 
pany after dinner. 



ATLANTIC OCEAN 13 

APRIL 28. Stayed in bunk all day. Roommate still 
with me. One of our bunkies, a parson, was in a number 
of times to see if he could do anything for us. My com- 
rade in distress and I talked most of the time. 

APRIL 29. In bed all day and felt very miserable. 

APRIL 30. Got up and went in to breakfast and ate a 
little dry oatmeal. In the afternoon had some sports, con- 
sisting of about a dozen events, the women only taking 
part. Everything went off fine and in the evening had a 
fine concert and the prizes for the sports were distributed 
at that time. 

MAY 1. Breakfasted on a small quantity of dry oat- 
meal, and read and talked until noon. Thought I would 
go in and see what they had for dinner. Would have had 
a strong inclination to jump overboard if I had not done 
so, as I found, to my joyful surprise, that on the menu there 
was a luxury, which I had been especially craving — beans. 
Although not feeling up to the mark as yet, I made out a 
fairly decent dinner, and in the afternoon was sitting on 
the lower deck talking to a couple of ladies. One bright 
young fellow on the upper deck tried to lasso me. This 
led to some scuffling and finally some one captured the rope 
and there was all kinds of fun until supper time. In the 
evening some more music. Quite foggy part of the day. 

MAY 2. Feeling all 0. K. again, read and talked until 
noon. In the afternoon watched boys and girls skip with 
a rope and then we had a few exhibitions of boxing and 
wrestling. After tea, had a grand concert, which was fine, 
not breaking up until 10 :30. The two Titanic survivors 
of the crew on board — Lee and Hinchin — took part, one 
of my roommates, Rev. Short, acting as chairman. 

MAY 3. After breakfast talked, read and watched 
games until noon. Saw land at 12 :30. Put in the after- 
noon watching land and our boat met the Cedric, a sister 
vessel, going out from Queenstown. Arrived outside of 



14 KILLARNEY 

Queenstown at 7:30. Was taken in about five miles on a 
tender, waited around a couple of hours, while the customs 
officers were going through the trunks, then went with 
about thirty others to a hotel. This bunch were Irish, 
going back to the old sod and they raised such a racket 
that night that I got no sleep. 

MAY 4. I arose at 5 :30. After breakfast walked 
around the town, visited a great cathedral, and left for 
Cork at 8 o'clock. Traveled around town until 1 when I 
went to Blarney, afterwards going to Killarney; spent a 
few very pleasant hours walking out to the lake and around 
the grounds of Lord Kinmare. Took special notice of the 
thatched houses of the town, and also the donkeys. It is 
a comical sight to see men, women and children running 
these modern auto-trucks, viz., donkeys, hitched to a small 
two-wheeled cart. It was a very beautiful country all the 
way from Queenstown to Killarney. 

MAY 5. "Wandered around the town watching the don- 
key carriages bringing the people to church. At 10 left 
for Mallow, arrived at 11 :30. On the way had a fine talk 
with a man from Australia. At 12 attended a Presby- 
terian Church ; after service was invited into the house by 
the minister; had lunch and enjoyed three hours of solid 
conversation. 

At 4 left for Waterford, arriving at 7. Went to a Meth- 
odist Church and afterward walked around the town until 
bedtime. Saw an ice cream sandwich car for the first time 
since leaving New York. 

MAY 6. Took a walk along the quay and stood a while 
watching the men unloading coal from a ship. At 9:15 
entrained for Enniscorthy, arriving at 10 :30 ; went through 
a cream and oleo factory. 

After dinner walked four miles into the country to call 
on people, the parents of a man I had worked with in De- 
troit. Stopped a couple of hours, and saw for the first 
time the interior of a real old-fashioned Irish cabin — two 
small rooms, fireplace, dirt floor and thatched roof. 



ENNISCORTHY 15 



In walking back to town got caught in a shower. Saw 
a stove for the first time at noon. . It was a very small 
affair and fitted inside the fireplace. Also saw a Massey 
Harris sign. At 5 started for Dublin, passing through the 
noted towns of Arklow, Wicklow and Newross. The scen- 
ery between "Waterf ord and Dublin was very wild and pic- 
turesque ; passed through a dozen tunnels and innumerable 
deep cuts. The railway line runs close to the ocean; part 
of the time it was almost on a level with the water and 
the balance of the way along the cliffs. 

At 7 :30 arrived in Dublin and after hunting up a place 
to stay I wandered around the town until 9 :30. From 
what little I have seen of the city it appears more modern 
and up-to-date than Cork. 

MAY 7. After breakfast took a long walk around Sack- 
ville street. This is a splendid thoroughfare, somewhat 
wider than Woodward avenue in Detroit. 

In the center of the street are three great monuments a 
few blocks apart — Parnell's, O'ConnelPs and Lord Nel- 
son's. The last is a gigantic tower more than 200 feet 
high. I located the Y. M. C. A. 

I spent the rest of the morning and most of the after- 
noon looking up time-tables and reading. After an early 
supper strolled out for a couple of hours and saw a num- 
ber of old churches. At 8 attended an illustrated lecture 
at the Y. M. C. A. This was given by a missionary from 
the Hudson Bay country. 

MAY 8. Spent the forenoon at the Y. M. C. A., writing, 
reading and looking over time-tables. Afternoon strolled 
around for a while and saw a number of noted places, viz., 
Bank of Ireland, Sherbourne Hotel, Trinity College and 
the New Technical Institute. 

Strolled through St. Stevens' Park and then visited the 
National Library and Museum, spending a most interesting 
couple of hours here. They have a grand collection of iron 
antiquities. 

After supper took a long walk and then attended a serv- 
ice at the Methodist Church, afterward having a short talk 



16 DUBLIN 

with the minister. Today saw an auto-truck for the first 
time in this country. 

MAY 9. After breakfast strolled a while, then went to 
the Y. M. C. A., read and wrote for a couple of hours. 
After this I took a ride out to Phoenix Park, strolled 
through the grounds, visited Wellington's (the Lord Lieu- 
tenant's) palace. Had a long talk with the policeman 
standing here. Then came back to the polo ground and 
watched the game played. Although I had read consider- 
able about the game this was the first one I had ever seen. 

It is a very interesting, although decidedly dangerous, 
game. I then came back to the city, had supper, read for 
a while, then strolled about Sackville street, rubbering at 
the crowd till bedtime. • 

MAY 10. After breakfast had a long walk, and then 
went to the Y. M. C. A. and wrote till noon. In the after- 
noon spent most of the time walking along the quay and 
watching the loading and unloading of boats. In the even- 
ing read a little and then went out and inspected Dublin 
after dark. 

MAY 11. After breakfast packed my suit case and then 
went to the Y. M. C. A., leaving the suit case in care of 
secretary. Gave him one of my books, started out and 
walked to Maynooth, a distance of fifteen miles. At this 
point concluded that I had enough for my purpose and 
boarded the train for Athlone, sixty-three miles farther on. 

This walk was certainly a new experience, a macadam- 
ized road, either hedge or wall on either side. I passed 
through the villages of Lucan and Leixlip, but it was one 
continual village all the way. Beautiful is the only word 
I can use to express the scenery. At Leixlip I crossed the 
Liffey. I passed three steam rollers which were pressing 
the road. At Maynooth there is a small canal and I had 
the pleasure of seeing two boats pass each other here. 

This town is the seat of a great Catholic college. There 
are also four splendid ruins supposed to have been an old 
castle. The duke of Leinster also has his country seat here, 



GALWAY 17 

a grand old mansion. The country between Maynooth and 
Athlone is considerably broken and more given over to 
stock. There is quite a lot of peat bog land, too. The 
country between Athlone and Galway is very much the 
same. Arrived at Galway at 9, watched the Saturday 
night crowd for a while and then turned in. In my room 
was an old-fashioned electric light, viz., a candle. There 
were a Scotchman and a German in the same compartment 
of the train, the first persons that were not Irish that I had 
seen since I landed. At Athlone we crossed the Shannon:, 
the largest river in Ireland. 

MAY 12. After breakfast walked around the town un- 
til 11 :30 ; attended church. After dinner went out along 
the bay for a couple of miles. Came back another way and 
kept strolling about till 4, then called on the minister of 
the church ; attended in the morning and stayed until time 
for evening service. Had a splendid conversation with 
both the minister and his wife. 



MAY 13. After breakfast entrained for Sligo at 9:40. 
Arrived at 2. Had something to eat and walked around 
town till 4, when I started for Manorhamilton. Arrived 
at 5 :15. I hunted up people whose address had been given 
me in Detroit only to find that the man of the house had 
just left for Dublin. Had tea with his wife and then 
walked out into the country five miles to the residence of 
a young lady whom I knew in Detroit. 

I just had the man's name, not thinking of there being 
more of the same name, and must have traveled several 
miles out of my way before I finally located the right party. 
It was 9 o 'clock before I found the place. They were just 
preparing for bed and I cannot put down in cold writing the 
heartiness of the welcome I received. I could not have 
been more sincerely welcomed if I had been a half a dozen 
prodigal sons. We sat up in front of the turf fire and 
talked until after 12. 

The country between Galway and Sligo was very poor, a 
miserable, stony, desolate looking country. I noticed a 



18 MANORHAMILTON 

great number of people digging turf along the way. Sligo 
is a very pretty place, situated as it is on an inlet of 
the sea. 

MAY 14. Took a walk to one of the neighbors ; on going 
back sat down and talked to Mr. Rutherford till noon. 
After dinner I watched him take a piece of oak timber like 
a cordwood stick and manufacture this into what he called 
a butt, but what in Detroit would be called a butter firkin. 
This was interesting to me as I had never seen anything of 
the kind before. After supper we gathered around the old 
fireplace once more and talked till midnight. 

MAY 15. After breakfast I talked to the mother and 
daughter till 10, then the boy of the family and I took a 
long walk down around a beautiful little lake. After din- 
ner I divided my time between the house and small build- 
ing where Mr. Rutherford was building, and also took a 
short walk after supper. As I intended to leave in the 
morning we kept up the talking game until after 12. . It 
certainly looked homelike sitting around that old fireplace 
watching the turf burning. I do not wonder that Irish 
people in America get homesick for the old sod. 

MAY 16. After breakfast I had one last talk with every- 
body and then after almost tearful good-byes, left at 10 for 
the town ; got caught in a heavy shower, but luckily having 
an umbrella did not get very wet. Bought a post card in 
the town and posted it to Miss Rutherford at 11. En- 
trained for Londonderry, eighty-five miles away. Arrived 
at 3 ; strolled around the town, was in the Y. M. C. A. for 
a while, At 8 attended a Salvation Army meeting. I do 
not know when I have felt so homesick. I have not felt 
so bad at leaving folks in ten years as I do now, after 
leaving Rutherfords. I shall remember the kindness of 
these people as long as I live. 

MAY 17. After breakfast, strolled along the quay and 
streets till 11. St. Eugene Cathedral is one of the fine 
churches. I stood and watched men unloading grain from 



LONDONDERRY 19 

a vessel for some time. Just before taking a train watched 
a company of soldiers marching, headed by a man with 
bagpipes. Broke journey at Ballymena; strolled around 
town for a couple of hours; was in the Y. M. C. A. for a 
while and then entrained for Belfast. Arrived at 6. Had 
something to eat then walked around town till 8. Went 
to the Y. M. C. A. hall and listened to a great crowd of 
girls and boys practicing singing for the 24th of May, 
"Empire Day" they call it here. The country between 
Derry and Belfast is the best appearing and most prosper- 
ous looking I have seen in Ireland. Part of it puts me in 
mind of the country between Stratford and Toronto in 
Ontario. 

MAY 18. After breakfast strolled down along the docks 
until 12. Saw boats loading and unloading and ship build- 
ing operations carried on. Went past the great works of 
Harlan and Wolff who built the Titanic. They have the 
largest traveling crane in the world, made especially for 
handling the material that went into the Titanic. 

After dinner stayed in the Y. M. C. A. and read until 4. 
At that time hearing music went out and followed a proces- 
sion around for about an hour. There were three bands, 
one of these being all pipers, dressed in Highland costume. 
This turn-out was to aid the Royal Life Boat Institute, the 
society that presents prizes for the saving of life. 

After supper I went to a meeting of the Y. M. C. A. ; on 
returning to my lodgings I discovered that the landlord 
had been over a large part of the States and we had a very 
interesting conversation. 

MAY 19. After breakfast I strolled around till 10 ; at- 
tended a splendid men's meeting at the Y. M. C. A. At 
11 attended service at the Methodist Church, Donegal 
square, and heard a very good sermon. After service 
shook hands with a lady and gentleman who had a son in 
Toronto; also had a few moments' conversation with the 
minister. After dinner strolled around until 3. Just be- 
fore I finished this walk was an eye witness of the first 
tragedy seen on this trip. I heard screams and was just 



20 BELFAST 

in time to see what looked like an 8-year-old boy placed in 
a rig for conveyance to the hospital, after having one leg 
ground off by a street car. At 3 I attended a Sunday 
school where the children were practicing for children's 
day. 

MAY 20. After breakfast started out and put in a 
couple of hours wandering through the dock-houses, and 
going and coming to meals. After dinner I spent the 
whole time until 9 :30 at the Y. M. C. A. reading and writ- 
ing. 

There was a large fireplace in the reading room, and a 
fire was lit in this at 10 a. m., and it was nice and comfort- 
able. It was certainly a luxury, it being the first time I 
was really comfortable in any of these places. "Was cer- 
tainly cheerful and homelike, sitting in front of the fire- 
place with a blazing fire on the hearth. 

MAY 21. After breakfast strolled down along the 
docks, passed by Harland and "Wolff and saw a great 
amount of work going on. After dinner took a long walk, 
tried to get in the great linen works, but could not get per- 
mission. Went to the Y. M. C. A. and read until supper 
time ; then went down to the docks and secured a ticket 
and went aboard a boat bound for Ayr. Boat sailed at 8. 
After watching her out of port went down below as it was 
quite cold. There were only two others beside myself 
going across. We had a little cabin warmed by a small 
stove, to ourselves. There being no bunk, we had to make 
ourselves comfortable on benches. 

MAY 22. Got into Ayr at 2 a, m. but did not leave the 
boat until 8. I had struck up a friendship with one of the 
passengers who was a Yorkshire farmer and trader. He 
had just been across to Ireland buying donkeys. We had 
breakfast together and then set out to visit Bobbie Burns' 
birthplace, two miles out of town. We visited the cabin 
and also the monument, which is a little farther along the 
road. Then parting from my farmer friend, who was 
going farther out, I returned to the city, staying there 



AYR 21 

until 2, when I entrained for Paisley. Ayr has a popula- 
tion of 33,000 and is a very charming place. 

Arrived at Paisley at 3 p. m., and spent the balance of 
the time until 6 walking about the city, which has a popu- 
lation of 85,000, and is principally noted for being the 
home of J. P. Coate§ Company, thread manufacturers, one 
of the greatest concerns of its kind in the world. They 
also have a few splendid public buildings that would do 
honor to any city. The Coates Memorial Presbyterian 
Church is the finest church I have seen on this side of the 
water. After supper I spent the time reading until 9 at 
the Y. M. C. A. 

MAY 23. After breakfast wrote and read until noon; 
had dinner and then wandered around until 5 o'clock. 
Had a good sight of the old Abbey church and cemetery. 
This church was built in 1160. Paisley had a great many 
fine business blocks and an especially fine street car service. 
A person can ride in any direction from a central point 
about two miles for one cent. At 5 o'clock I started for 
Glasgow, arriving there in the course of an hour. This 
is the second city of the British Isles. After supper I 
wandered around the city until 10 o'clock. It is a place 
about the size of Pittsburgh. The Caledonia and Glasgow 
and Southwestern Railways have magnificent stations. 

I inquired the way to the Y. M. C. A. and got into con- 
versation with a man and found out he had lived a number 
of years in America. He walked up to the Y. with me 
and we had quite an interesting conversation. They were 
celebrating Victoria Day and the Y. was closed, so I strolled 
about until bedtime. 

MAY 24. After breakfast went to the postofiice and 
found a copy of a Detroit paper waiting for me. Sat 
down in the square beside the postoffice and read it through, 
then was guided through the splendid City Hall they have 
there, and afterwards hunted up the library and stayed 
there until 4 :30 looking over maps and Bradshaw 's, fig- 
uring out routes, etc. ; then walked around until supper 
time, afterwards strolling around the city until bedtime. 



22 GLASGOW 

MAY 25. After breakfast walked about a mile to 
Bridge wharf and boarded a boat for a place called 
Dunoon, near the mouth of the Clyde, about 50 miles from 
Glasgow. We passed the towns of Govan, Bowling and 
Kirn and the cities of Eenfrew and Greenock. It was a 
beautiful trip. At first there must have been five miles of 
docks and ship building yards on either side of the river, 
and then short stretches of country and mountains between 
the towns, and at Dunoon there were great ranges of moun- 
tains on either side of the bay. This town joins Kirn and 
the two together extend along the shore upward of three 
miles. 

We landed at 12:30 and after getting some dinner I 
strolled along the shore and back through the town until 3, 
then listened to a Highland Pipers band play for an hour 
or so. Walked around a little more, climbed a hill sur- 
mounted by a statue of Highland Mary, boarded the 
steamer and returned at 5 :30. If anything the return trip 
was finer than the trip out. The weather was perfect and 
there seemed to be a continual procession of boats going 
out towards the ocean on their way to America, the Prtfrn- 
ised Land. Arrived at 7 :30, I hustled to the Library, as I 
wanted to find out about boats running to Inverness. 
Stayed there until 9 and then went out and tried to find a 
barber shop, but they were all closed, 

MAY 26. Went out to get some breakfast and found 
that eating places seemed to be closed. At last after going 
probably a couple of miles, got some cakes at a small bak- 
ery. I also found a barber shop open and had a shave, and 
then strolled up High street to the Cathedral, the oldest 
church in Glasgow. There are several noble buildings at 
this point — four other churches, the Eoyal Infirmary, the 
great Hospital and the City Prison. There is also a pretty 
little park occupying the square. 

I attended church at the Cathedral. It is a grand old 
building. The entrance, or nave as they call it, is about 
100 feet deep, has great rows of pillars down the side, and 
on both walls are memorial tablets and statues. The church 
proper is about the same depth as the nave, and the pulpit 



GLASGOW 23 

and reading desk are about fifty feet from the wall. The 
seats were got up especially to remind people that they 
were miserable sinners, just about room for a ten-year-old. 
I, being rather lengthy, was in torture, not being able either 
to stand or sit comfortably. 

The service consisted of an interminable amount of pre- 
liminaries and a very short sermon. I gave a very long 
sigh of relief when it was over. I then had dinner and 
attended a meeting in a small mission hall near where I 
stopped. There w T as good singing and we had a very good 
talk. 

After this I strolled about until 6. I found out for cer- 
tain what I practically knew, that Glasgow is a Presby- 
terian city. In this walk I passed about twenty-eight 
Presbyterian churches. After supper listened to an open- 
air meeting until 7 and then went to the mission hall again, 
afterwards going home to bed. 

MAY 27. After breakfast went to the Library and 
looked over some more time-tables, then strolled around to 
three different ticket offices looking for information ; found 
that I would have to sail from Leith to Norway instead of 
being able to go from Aberdeen as I had been figuring. 
After dinner went out to Kelvin Grove Park where is sit- 
uated the Presbyterian University and the Art Museum. 
In the latter is a splendid collection of all kinds of paint- 
ings, statues, models of machinery, ships, etc., and all kinds 
of curiosities. I spent a profitable time going through this 
building and then went across the ground to the Uni- 
versity, going through a couple of rooms of the latter. 
After this I watched a number of games of bowling on the 
Green, and then went back to the city. After supper wrote 
and read till bedtime. 

MAY 28. After breakfast strolled around for a while 
and then headed for the Library, sitting there till noon. 
After dinner went to Glasgow Green Park, strolled around 
the park for some time; then inspected the small Museum 
located there, then went back to the Y. M. C. A., reading 
till supper time, afterwards taking a tram ride to Queen's 



24 GLASGOW 

Park ; walked around and listened to the band playing till 
10 o'clock, when I went home. This is a beautiful park; 
slopes gently up a high hill where there is a succession of 
terraces, which are very pretty. 

MAY 29. After breakfast strolled about two miles to a 
Library on the main street, stopping there till dinner time,, 
afterwards going to Alexandra Park. 

At this place, which is almost out in the country, besides 
other fine points there are three golf links. After wander- 
ing around for a couple of hours I came back to the Cathe- 
dral cemetery and wandered through this until supper 
time. This is laid out on the sides of the hill, there being 
a succession of terraces from the bottom to the top, the 
very peak being surmounted by a monument of John Knox. 

In the cemetery I met a gentleman whose daughter was 
a resident of Chicago and we had a lengthy conversation 
in regard to America. I then noticed the name Struthers 
on a tombstone — probably one of my relatives. After 
leaving the cemetery was shown the oldest building in 
Glasgow, built in 1455. After supper went to Ruchill Park 
to the band concert. This park is the farthest out on the 
west side and is very large, there being a number of golf 
links there. It is very rolling and a grand view is ob- 
tained from the top of a hill in the center. The concert, 
which was certainly fine, closed at 10 o'clock, and then it 
was home for me. 

MAY 30. After breakfast started out to hunt up a 
couple of men named Struthers to see if they were related 
to me. Found one a stock broker, in his office, but could 
not locate any relationship. Had a pleasant conversation, 
afterward going to the Library, where I stayed till dinner 
time. 

In the afternoon, as it was cold and showery, went to the 
Y. M. C. A. and stayed till supper, afterwards stopping at 
my lodging till 8 p. m., when I went to a small mission 
near by. Two lady missionaries from China gave inter- 
esting talks, and also sang songs in Chinese. After the 
meeting I went home and to bed. 



STIRLING 25 

MAY 31. After breakfast, it being so cold and disagree- 
able went to the Library and stayed till dinner, and then 
boarded the train for Stirling, arriving there at 2 :30 p. m. 
This is a very noted old city and is especially famed for 
having Stirling Castle in its midst. Near by is the field of 
Bannockburn, on which the battle of that name was fought. 
The castle is situated on the top of a great hill, more than 
1,000 feet above the surrounding country. It must have 
been almost impregnable in early times. About two-thirds 
around it there is a sheer wall of stone, more than 500 feet 
deep. This castle was at one time the home of the Scotch 
king. It is now the Military Barracks. A very wonderful 
view of the mountains and country was to be had from the 
top of Stirling Castle. 

Just outside the old moat is a statue of King Robert the 
Bruce, and across on another hill is a monument to William 
Wallace, a noted Scot. In a churchyard near by is a mon- 
ument to the Maid of Forth, a young girl who, because she 
would not renounce her religion, was tied to a stake on the 
Forth, at low tide, and left there until the water, slowly 
creeping up, drowned her. I certainly felt that I was get- 
ting the worth of my money, as far as this place was con- 
cerned. 

At 5 :30 I entrained for Perth, arriving at 6 :30. I went 
down through the main part of the city and then out to 
the village of Scone, about three miles, wmere the old palace 
of that name is situated. As the grounds were closed, I 
had no opportunity to view the interior. I rode back on 
the tram car, then after wandering around a while, about 
9 p. m. I ran across a Socialist open air meeting and 
stopped and listened for some time. 

JUNE 1. After breakfast, took a long walk around the 
town. This place is very prettily situated on the Tay 
river; has a grand park and esplanade fronting on this 
stream, the same being upwards of two miles in length, and 
probably half a mile in width. I meandered into a small 
grist mill, an old style water-power, and had a long talk 
with the owner. Strolled around a while longer and then 
entrained for Inverness, 118 miles away. Part of this dis- 



26 INVERNESS 

tance we were traveling through a fairly decent farming 
country, but the most of the distance w r as through the high- 
lands. We passed within sight of some of the highest 
peaks in Scotland. The scenery was splendid all the way. 
Arrived at Inverness at 5 p. m. and roamed around the 
town till bedtime. It was a grand place, entirely sur- 
rounded by hills, there being a very old castle, in front of 
which is the statue of Flora McDonald, the savior of 
Prince Charlie. There is also a cathedral and a number 
of ancient buildings that have historical significance. 

JUNE 2. Not being able to find any eating house open, 
I had to go without breakfast. At 11 a, m. I attended 
church ; after church wandered around and finally located 
a place where I obtained something to eat. Afterwards, 
when nearly frozen, I located the Y. M. C. A. and the door 
being open, wandered in, sat down and read for a while, 
slowly freezing to death, then the caretaker came in and 
introduced himself, and suggested a walk ; the rain having 
desisted for a time he and three others and I started out. 
There was a beautiful stretch along the canal to Tomahuack 
cemetery. This is claimed to be one of the prettiest spots 
in the whole world. It is a hill shaped like an inverted 
boat, and is terraced all the way up. A splendid view is 
obtained from the top of this hill. 

We afterwards walked back to the Y. M. C. A., I having 
talked thirteen to the dozen both going and coming. There 
the conversation was continued till 5 :30, when we ad- 
journed. I didn't know when I would have enjoyed an in- 
vitation out to supper as much as I would have at this 
time, but as no one happened to think about it I had to go 
out and skirmish, landing at the same place as at noon, and 
having to content myself with a few cakes. 

After another stroll in the rain I attended church at 
6:30, afterward a meeting at the Y. M. C. A., which fin- 
ished the day. 

JUNE 3. On arising hustled right down to the 
boat landing to see what time the boat started for Aber- 
deen. I was told that 11 was the time, so went uptown, had 



ABERDEEN 27 

some breakfast, went to the Library a little while, then to 
the Y. M. C. A., said goodby to the caretaker, and after 
buying some provisions for the trip went down to the boat, 
only to learn that it would not sail before 1 p. m. Went 
back uptown and stayed at the Library till time to start. 
Coming aboard, wrote awhile in my diary. The boat didn't 
start till 2 and I stayed on deck watching them pull out 
of the Loch. I then went down below and read till 5 p. m., 
when I succumbed to the heavy roll of the ship and was 
very sick. 

JUNE 4. Landed in Aberdeen at 4 a. m., but didn't 
leave boat till 9 a. m. This is the most miserable day I 
have experienced since leaving Detroit. In the first place 
I was very weak from sickness and the temperature was al- 
most down to zero, with a strong wind blowing, and I never 
saw a fire of any kind all day. If I walked I was cold, 
and if I went into the Y. M. C. A. or Public Library it 
was the same. I must say this much for Aberdeen, that it 
is a very beautiful city. "With a few exceptions the build- 
ings are built of a light gray stone, almost white, which 
is very pretty, and the streets are wider than in most of the 
European cities. Everything must come to an end, and 
finally I felt fairly comfortable when I got to bed that 
night. 

JUNE 5. Had breakfast and stayed by the fire until 
after 9. Then wrote a post card and hunted up the post- 
office and mailed this to a friend in North Dakota. At 10 
o'clock took train for Montrose, arriving at 11:30. Still 
very cold. Wandered around this town for some time; 
drifted into the Y. M. C. A. and Library. Had dinner 
and then strolled around watching a bowling match and at 
4 boarded train for Arbroath, arriving at 5. Wandered 
around the town, examined the ruins of an old abbey, 
looked into the Y. M. C. A. and finally entrained at 7 :30 
for Dundee. For the first time in all my travels I got off 
at the wrong station, and had to wait for another train. 
Did not arrive in Dundee until 10. 



28 DUNDEE 

JUNE 6. Had breakfast, then hunted up the Y. M. 
C. A. and wrote up my diary, as I was behind. After an 
early dinner started out and wandered around for three 
hours, taking in the sights of the city. At 3 :30 entrained 
for Edinburgh. Crossed the Tay, the longest bridge in the 
world, just out of Dundee. And later a few miles out of 
Edinburgh crossed the Forth on another great bridge. 

Arriving at Edinburgh immediately went on to Leith, 
which is practically part of Edinburgh. I at once hunted 
up the parents of a young man with whom I had worked in 
Detroit, and was treated as well as if I had been the young 
fellow himself. Stayed until 10 :30. Then I went back to 
Edinburgh. 

JUNE 7. This was a beautiful morning, sun shining 
and bright and warm. Walked around a while admiring 
the wonderful city — the most beautiful and wonderful I 
have seen yet. On both sides of the railroad tracks, which 
are depressed, are hanging-gardens, terraced up from the 
ground. I went down and taking a seat allowed the sun 
to soak into me for a couple of hours. 

"While here I got into conversation with a gentleman 
from the South of England. After this I hunted up the 
Y. M. C. A. and wrote until noon. I then went over the 
great historical mile, the High Street and Cannon Gate. 
This is packed with historical objects the whole length. At 
the top is Edinburgh Castle. There are a number of noted 
churches and old mansions, then the Parliament buildings, 
and among the houses is a place where Bobbie Burns put 
up when in the city, also the home of John Knox. It is 
now an old curio shop. Then the second oldest 
church in Scotland, the Cannon Gate. Then lastly at the 
foot, Holy Rood Palace. 

Most all of the old mansions are swarming with the poor- 
est class of the city. As I was standing outside the fence 
looking in at the old Cannon Gate Church, a wee laddie, 
who could not have been more than seven years of age, 
started to "ring off" a whole string of dates regarding 
some of the landmarks. After viewing the place from 
the outside, I then attacked the climbing of the great hill, 



ABBOTTSFORD 29 

known as Arthur's Seat, the top of which is more than 
a thousand feet above the city. A splendid view was ob- 
tained from the top of this. On going down I went back 
up High street to the Library and wrote until supper time, 
afterward taking a short walk before going to bed. 

JUNE 8. Wrote until 10:30 when I boarded the train 
for Galashiels, arriving at 11 :30. Then walked to Abbotts- 
ford about three miles in the country. Took the wrong 
road a couple of times, but finally located the place, which 
when I did get a sight of the splendid pile, I felt that all 
the traveling I had done since leaving Detroit would be 
amply rewarded by just seeing the interior of this one 
house. There were five rooms shown, viz : Study, library, 
dining, drawing and hunting room. And all of these were 
simply magnificent, I got back to Edinburgh at 4. "Went 
to the postoffice, wrote and sent off a bunch of cards. 

After supper went up to the castle and through it. Was 
a long time on top admiring the view ; I got surfeited, went 
back to my lodgings and to bed. 

JUNE 9. Walked out to Carlton Hill, climbed this and 
viewed Nelson's monument and other smaller monuments. 
And also had a splendid view of the city and surrounding 
country. Afterward attended church. Then went out to 
see my Leith friends and spent the rest of the day until 
late that night talking, eating and listening to music. Had 
a delightful time, and met the finest of the finest of people. 

The street cars having stopped, I had to walk back, and 
two gentlemen who had also spent the evening there guided 
me home. 

JUNE 10. Took a long walk out St. George and Prin- 
cess streets, then to the Y. M. C. A. where I stayed until 
dinner time. Then went through the interior of St. Giles' 
Cathedral and Holy Rood Palace. The cathedral is a 
grand old pile, although like all other places of this kind 
the interior was very dark and dismal. I would hate to 
have to go regularly to service. The interior of the palace 
was simply splendid. There are Queen Mary's bedroom, 



30 EDINBURGH 

dressing room, sup room and drawing room, and the same 
with the exception of the last named room of Lord Darnley, 
the husband of Queen Mary. Besides the latter were 
shown the present apartments of the Duchess of Hamilton. 

The great attraction is the picture gallery, there being 
more than one hundred paintings of supposed Scottish 
kings. It appears as if they have gone back to the time 
of Noah, and some of these paintings certainly have that 
appearance. 

After this I took a long walk, winding up at Carlton 
Churchyard. No American ought to miss this, as among 
other great tombs and monuments, standing close to the 
tomb of David Hume, is the grand monument to the Scot- 
tish-American soldiers who fought and died in our great 
Civil War. The top of the monument is surmounted by a 
crowned figure of Abraham Lincoln. After this I went 
back to the Y. M. C. A. and stayed there until supper time ; 
then to the Library where I read until it was time to retire. 

JUNE 11. Arose at 10. My watch stopped and I 
stayed in bed longer than I intended. After breakfast" I 
went to the Library, stayed until dinner, afterward taking 
a long walk finally drifted into a branch library and stayed 
there for awhile. Then took another long walk out Queen's 
Ferry street, one of the grand boulevards of the city, then 
back to the lodging house. I bought some sausages and 
scones and cooked my own supper for a change. Afterward 
stayed in and read until bedtime. 

JUNE 12. After breakfast, walked over to the Waverly 
Station and took a train for Leith. Located my boat, 
found out about fares, etc., then strolled around the docks 
and the town until 12 ; then back to Edinburgh, afterward 
staying in the lodging house, reading and writing until 6, 
then went out and had supper. I then took a long walk 
to Grass Market, around the base of the Castle Rock to 
Princess street, then out to George street, afterward to the 
library, staying there until bedtime. 

JUNE 13. Took a long walk, hunted up a bank and had 
one of my checks changed, went into Thomas Cook & Son's 



CHRISTIAN SAND 31 

and got some Danish money, then to the Y. M. C. A., where 
I read for some time, afterward going to a book store, where 
I purchased an English-Danish book. After dinner, back 
to my lodgings, where I wrote until 3, then walked along 
Leith Walk, until I found a barber shop, afterward down 
to special friends in Leith, staying there until 10, when 
these friends, Mr. and Mrs. Cassels, went with me to the 
boat, this sailing for Copenhagen at 11. 

JUNE 14. Did not sleep much on account of it being so 
rough. Felt kind of squeamish, so went back to bed after 
breakfast, got up at dinner time and tried to eat something 
but gave it up as a bad job. I was done for the rest of the 
day. There were just two others beside myself in this 
cabin and neither one could talk good English. 

JUNE 15. Another very rough night. Stayed in bed 
until 11, then got up because we were getting near land. 
Landed at Christian Sand at 12 and stayed there a couple 
of hours. I went uptown and got shaved and bought a 
post card and wandered around seeing something of the 
place. After we again started I stayed on deck the most of 
the time until 9 o 'clock, when I went below to bed. 

JUNE 16. Had another rough night, felt very miser- 
able, so did not get up for breakfast. Got up at 10. We 
were in the Sound between Denmark and Sweden and land 
could be seen on both sides. It was a grand view from 
this time until we reached Copenhagen, which we did at 
noon. One of my companions walked with me uptown to 
one of the small parks and we sat down and watched the 
traffic. It started to rain and finally began to leak through 
our shelter, which was a great tree. We then went down to 
the dock and went aboard a great ferry boat, which ran to 
Malmo, Sweden, on which my companion left at 3 o'clock, 
leaving me all alone. The third man had gone out into the 
country somewhere. I started and walked and walked 
through some of the principal streets and they have some 
mighty fine streets here. I kept it up until 6, wandering 
into a railway station and also a cemetery. At 6 I went 



32 COPENHAGEN 

into a cafe and got some Kaffe og Smeart Breund, then I 
walked again until 8 :30, when I ran across my other sailing 
companion and I asked him to try and locate a lodging 
house for me. He sent me, with another fellow whom he 
knew, who took me to a couple of places. Then I hunted 
up someone who could talk English and we went to a couple 
of more places, and finally I obtained a room to myself for 
3 krone a week — 81 cents. I sat down and wrote up my 
diary, which had been neglected, and then to bed. I shall 
always feel more sympathetic for the lone foreigner in a 
strange land. Not a soul in the house that talks English. 
I noticed two American coaches and a Piano binder at the 
railway station, which made me homesick. 

JUNE 17. After breakfast, took a long walk, winding 
up at the Radhaus, and spent the time until 12 going 
through. This is a magnificent building, newly built in 
1905. Took another long walk, got lost and wandered on 
and on, finally at 1 :30 went into a cafe and had Middag. 
Stayed here for some time, taking note of the other diners. 
On the coming out, passed by a store in the window of 
which was a map of the city and was enabled to locate in 
reference to my lodgings. I then went to a beautiful park, 
within which was a magnificent Palm House. I entered 
and inspected same, passed another great building sur- 
rounded by a moat and as there were bars on most of the 
windows, and soldiers walking up and down before the 
building, I concluded it was a prison. A little further, 
was another grand building but it was not open. This was 
a Museum. Finally, by slow stages, I worked my way to 
the Magazin Du Nord, a great department store, which for 
grandness of interior beats anything of the kind in Detroit. 
It was raining and quite cold, so I spent some little time 
going through the building. Then to my room, buying 
something to eat at the baker's for a change. After this 
I wrote and directed a number of cards to friends in De- 
troit. Then went down and stayed in office for a couple 
of hours. Two men had a desperate argument, which 
finally ended by their drawing guns, but the landlord sep- 
arated them before any damage was done. 



COPENHAGEN 33 

JUNE 18. After breakfast wandered out towards the 
country, to a canal bordered with trees, just like a small 
creek. Here I sat down and watched a fisherman. He had 
5 poles which he tended, between times eating lunch, 
drinking beer and taking care of 3 small children. Walk- 
ing along a little further I came to another city, "Ama- 
berg. " Here a large building was in course of construc- 
tion, and I watched proceedings awhile. Then, going back 
to Copenhagen, had dinner and then strolled to the mar- 
ket. This is an open air affair. A canal runs along one side 
and here the fishwives are stationed. Boxes about 2 feet 
in depth, in which holes are bored, and sunk until the tops 
are almost covered, are used to hold the live fish. At one 
corner of the market is a large monument which makes 
a convenient seat. I ensconsed myself on the sunny side of 
this and stayed a couple of hours watching the people. 
There was a portable coffee stand close by which did a good 
business. The women wore a picturesque costume, wooden 
shoes, voluminous skirts, tight waists, and a comical-looking 
head-dress, something like a sun bonnet. At 3 I strolled 
in a new direction and shortly came out on a- grand 
boulevard. I was astonished, had no idea I was in such a 
grand city. Great hotels, theatres, pleasure gardens, mu- 
seums, etc. A little farther along I came upon a grand new 
station. Magnificent is the word to use for the interior. 
Marble and more marble. The postoffice is another fine 
building and opposite is the Tivoli gardens, a great pleas- 
ure resort. Then on the other side is the Glytoteket, a 
grand museum. In my wanderings I came to a news 
stand and stopped to rubber in the window. There were 
pictures of scenes at the Chicago convention. A gentle- 
man who was behind me spoke to another in English and 
it seemed good to hear. Before leaving here I went in and 
bought an old Saturday Evening Post. I then went to 
my lodgings, had supper, and had just started to read, 
when a half drunken Dane started talking to me. He had 
been a number of years in America, but had been back so 
long had almost forgotten the language. After conversing 
awhile I went to bed. 



34 COPENHAGEN 

JUNE 19. After breakfast started for Staat's Museum 
and spent a couple of hours going through inspecting the 
pictures and statuary, then after a bite of something to eat, 
traveled a couple of miles to the Glytoteket and spent some 
time there. These are the two largest museums in the city 
and are magnificent buildings, the last being the finest 
building, but the Staat's has the finest collection of paintr 
ings. The paintings of the latter are mostly old, or at 
least portray old time scenes, viz., "Eve Tempting Adam 
with the Apple," "Christ Blessing the Children," 
"Women at the Tomb," etc. I was struck more by the 
beautiful interior of the Glytoteket than the portraits. 
After this I wandered down to the canal and after passing 
some bathing houses sat down and watched a dredger work 
awhile, then to my lodgings for supper and afterwards had 
a conversation with a man who had spent a number of 
years in America. After this, it being too fine to stay in 
the house, I took a walk along the docks and watched them 
loading and the departure of the great ferry boat for 
Malmo, then stopped at the landing and watched the motor 
boats that ply the canal come and go, then back past the 
Thorsa, the boat from Leith, stopped and talked awhile to 
the mate, then home to bed. 

JUNE 20. After breakfast I went to depot, intending to 
take a trip into the country, but- gave it up on account of 
the rain. Stayed in the station until afternoon and still 
it continued to rain. Went back near lodging and had 
dinner. Came back to the market and sat dow T n and 
watched the crowd. Then went over near the Radhaus, 
where there is a small industrial exhibition and wandered 
through, watching the demonstration of the Burroughs 
adding machine and a vacuum cleaner, then went out and 
rubbered at the crowds awhile and then tried to find what 
car I would have to take to go to the New Palace, but 
could get no proper information. Wandered into a news- 
stand, where pieces of different papers and magazines were 
pasted on the walls. Felt at home with the Katzenjammer 
kids and our old friends, Si and Maud. As I just passed 
a new station it began to rain hard again, so I hustled 



BALERUP 35 

inside. Saw a bunch of Frelsels Haer— Salvation Army 
people. Finally went to lodgings, had supper and spent 
the rest of the time until bedtime reading a Saturday 
Evening Post, which I had obtained at a news-stand. 

JUNE 21. After breakfast walked to railway station 
and at 10 boarded a train for Balerup. Arrived at 11. 
Walked through the town, out into the country, making a 
round of about 6 miles. It seemed fine to get away off 
from the noise and turmoil of the city. Balerup is about 
ten miles out of Copenhagen and the country is rolling. 
There are very few trees, apparently every foot of the 
land is utilized. There are no fences. All cattle are staked 
out. The farmsteads are in the shape of a square with an 
opening at one end, the house, barn, hennery and every- 
thing being all joined together. I went into two different 
places to see if I could get something to eat, but in the 
first there was no one at home, the second, just an old 
woman and I could not make her understand. A short dis- 
tance further on was a brickyard and near there I obtained 
something to eat. Afterward watched their crude process 
of making brick and then went back to Balerup. I passed 
what seemed to be a sawmill. I went in and stayed until 
it was time for my train. The mill was another very 
crude affair. Just before the train left at 3 :30 a heavy 
shower came up and it rained all the way into Copenhagen. 
I was lucky to have my outing without getting wet. I en- 
joyed that trip immensely as it was a change from the city. 
I got back at 4:30. Old-fashioned, long-armed windmills 
were scattered all over this country. I stayed in the station 
for awhile and then went to the Tivoli for the evening. 
This is a great open-air pleasure garden, right in the center 
of the city, adjoining the City Hall. It is grandly gotten 
up and has all the old time popular amusements. 

JUNE 22. After breakfast took a stroll through a new 
part of the town, then a car ride to the King's Palace, 
which certainly did not look like a palace. I had passed it 
a couple of times before and as there were sentry boxes 
and soldiers on duty I thought it was some old barrack 



36 HELSINGBOKG 

The building is very old and weather beaten, built in the 
shape of a round square with four openings leading into 
each street. The Royal family were in the country at this 
time, in retirement, on account of the death of the late 
king. After sizing up this building for some time I wan- 
dered down to one of the canals and watched the disman- 
tling of an old bridge, then after dinner took a car ride -to 
the Zoologisk Have. This is a grand park, very large, and 
will compare favorably with Belle Isle in Detroit. There 
is quite a fine Zoo and it is an enclosure by itself. There 
was an admission fee of 50 ore — 14 cents. I went through 
this place and they have a very good collection of animals. 
I then went back towards the city and made a wrong turn 
and came out on a different side of the park, and wandered 
around quite a while before I found my way back at last 
to the right car. I got back and bought some provisions 
at the bakery and took them up to my room, where I made 
my supper from the bakery goods. I then spent the time 
until 9, writing a letter to a special friend in Detroit. 

JUNE 23. After breakfast I went to the docks and got 
aboard a boat, bound for Helsingborg, Sweden, about 40 
miles from Copenhagen. Arriving there at 10:30 strolled 
around town until 1, and it is a very fine little city. At 
this time boarded a train for Halmstad, arriving there at 3. 
Some grand scenery along this route. Part of the way it 
put me in mind of North Dakota — prairies and fine fields 
of grain and no fences as in Denmark. They have their 
stock tethered and do not require fences. Another part of 
the way is quite hilly and some heavily wooded. I ex- 
pected to run across a man I met on the boat coming over 
from New York, but as I had not the name of the street 
I was left. After wandering around for a couple of hours 
I made up my mind that I did not care to stay there over 
night so went to the station and tried to find out about a 
train for Stockholm. I finally located a young fellow who 
could speak English and was told there would be a train 
at 6. This just suited me to a T, but when I had obtained 
my ticket I found out I was sold, there being no train until 
the next day on the direct line. They gave me a ticket 
which compelled me to go back for a considerable distance 



HALMSTAD 37 

over the same line I had traveled to reach Halmstad and it 
cost me 5.60 krone — $1.60 more than the regular fare. I 
was certainly sore, but I had learned a lesson and had to 
pay for it. No more side trips for me when I am unable to 
speak the language of the country. 

At 8 o 'clock I had to get off at a small town called Astorp 
and wait until 10 for another train. I wandered down the 
only street, very near to the end, when what should I run 
into but a beer garden and dance hall and everything going 
at full blast. I stopped and rubbered for a while, although 
I suppose I should not have done so. At 10 o'clock I 
boarded another train for a short run and just before 12 
boarded another train that took me through to my desti- 
nation. The trains I rode on were more like the American 
ones than any I had seen since landing at Queenstown. 
All the cars were built of steel and conductors came 
through and punched the tickets, the same as with us. 

JUNE 24. Snoozed a little at intervals until 7 and then 
settled down in earnest to view the scenery, which was gen- 
erally rough and rugged ; apparently very little of the land 
is cultivated along the track and it is mostly rocks and 
timber. Most of the farmhouses were substantial as to 
size and were built of wood. There were a great many 
small lakes and rivers, a perfect country for the camper, 
but not nearly as grand as the country between Toronto 
and "Winnipeg that I have traveled through many times. 
Arrived at Stockholm at 11 :30. 

This day was a considerable contrast to the day when I 
landed in Copenhagen — it was really right down hot. When 
I began looking around for something to eat I found every- 
thing closed up, a holiday of some kind. Imagine restau- 
rants in a large city in America closing up for any reason. 
After nearly an hour's chase in the hot sun I got something 
from a stand near one of the canals. Being close to a great 
building I went in and found out it was the headquarters 
of the Supreme Court. I was in the room where the court 
was held. I then went through another great building which 
proved to be the palace, then a large crowd gathered in 
the inner court and I stopped to see what was happening. 



38 STOCKHOLM 

In the course of half an hour a band was heard approach- 
ing which turned out to be a military band. This was 
followed by a company of soldiers. A guard of the palace 
was being changed. This was the cause of the crowd. 
They w r ent through a few manoeuvres and the band played 
several times and then the company marched out and it 
was all over. 

I followed part of the crowd which went in and up one 
of the staircases of the palace, but the doors of the rooms 
were locked. After a short wait one of the doors opened 
and two women followed by a guard came out. Something 
made me think they w 7 ere Americans, and I was not de- 
ceived, as coming to the door across the hall and finding it 
locked one of them said they would have to go as they 
hadn't time to wait, and just then the door opened and in 
they went and a number of us went in also, after paying 
25 ore (7 cents) and it w r as well worth the small donation, 
although I could not understand the guide's explanation. 
The Americans with their guides had gone ahead. 

I must say that I had been disappointed in the palaces, 
although they were grand enough affairs. Right next to 
this is their parliament building. This is a beautiful and 
magnificent structure. It was closed at this time. I then 
started to see something of the town, but it was so very hot 
that I sat down in a little park along-side one of the many 
canals and watched the passers-by, then took another stroll 
to a park at the other side of the town and listened to the 
band for some time. After this long walk back to the same 
park after getting some more cakes, I ate these and stayed 
and listened to the music until 8, then I started out to look 
for a bed, and I traveled and kept on until I was worn 
out. At last when I had about concluded to sleep out a 
number of sailors passed me who were talking English, and 
I stopped them. You may be sure they piloted me to 
a place that was open. Just think, the name of the place 
was the Boston Hotel. I went to bed at once as I was 
about all in. 

JUNE 25. After breakfast, being within a block of the 
dock where the St. Petersburg boats tied up, went into one 



STOCKHOLM 39 

of the offices and found out the price of a ticket ; then went 
into a place where they spoke English to find out where 
the American consul hung out and boarded a car for his 
office; had to wait there a while and finally found out I 
would have to go to the American minister. This is only 
a short distance. Another long wait and the great man 
finally appeared and although I have no papers of any 
kind and was almost sure I would be turned down, made 
out all right and obtained a passport. We then had quite 
a conversation with reference to Detroit, Stockholm, etc. 
Then I had to go to the Russian consul to have the pass- 
port viseed. This is only a short distance, and there I 
found out that I had to come back between 1 and 4. I 
then went back to the boat offices and by that time it was 
afterjioon. So I went to a restaurant, had something to 
eat, afterward went to the postoffice and inquired for mail ; 
bought some cards, wrote and sent them, then made my 
way to the consul 's, where I had another long wait. I got 
my document properly fixed up and then went to a money 
changer's where I obtained some Eussian money. As I 
needed a shoe doctor I started out on a hunt. I must 
have walked a mile before I finally located one and had 
my shoes fixed up. Then remembering my failing as re- 
gards seasickness I obtained some lemons and just reached 
the boat at 5 :45, fifteen minutes before she sailed. 

Up to 10 o 'clock when a slight fog came up we could see 
the land on either side. Passed five war vessels 
anchored and met one coming in. The scenery was simply 
grand. From 10 to 1 when we anchored it was certainly 
exciting. The lead was down all the time and we nearly 
grounded once. The fog didn't lift until 6 the next morn- 
ing. 

One of the passengers spoke English and we got into a 
conversation. Before morning I found out that several of 
the crew could also speak English. 

JUNE 26. The fog lifted at 6 and the sight that ap- 
peared made me feel kind of shivery. There were small 
islands all around and the boat was not more than one 
hundred feet from one of these. After this we made pretty 



40 HELSINGFORS 

good time. After another couple of hours the fog came 
down again, but we were just getting out into the open 
water so we kept right on, the whistle blowing at intervals. 
After this we slowed up and two whistles could be heard 
ahead, first on one side and then on the other ; then a little 
farther on we came almost to a stop when an immense rock 
loomed up at the right, and at the same time the Uleaburg, 
a sister boat of ours, passed on the left. Then the fog 
lifted and it was fine the rest of the day. 

In the meanwhile I had written up my diary and got 
into a conversation with a Finnish couple. It seemed that 
the wife had joined some kind of society that had members 
from all over the world who corresponded with each other. 
The lady had a book with the copies of letters she had writ- 
ten in acknowledgment of receipt of cards. I went through 
this book and made proper English out of these copies. 
After this went on deck and sat there the rest of the day. 
My vocabulary is limited as to adjectives strong enough to 
express the grandeur of the scenery. Just a succession of 
islands from a small rock to some several miles in extent. 

At 6 o'clock we tied up at Hango, Finland, but as the 
boat only stayed half an hour I didn't go uptown. Just 
as we anchored an American gentleman asked me if I un- 
derstood English and I gave him some information. After- 
wards we had an enjoyable conversation, I finding out that 
he was also on a trip around the world, only he had gone 
the other way and had already visited the countries that 
I had ahead of me. We gave each other some valuable in- 
formation in regard to different places, and fixed it up so 
that we might meet in Edinburgh. I stayed up until the 
boat pulled into Helsingfors, Finland, at midnight. With 
the exception of the fog in the morning this was a perfect 
day. As there has not been a particle of roll to the boat 
I have not been seasick. The stewards, waiters, cooks, etc., 
of this boat are women, which is a novelty. 

JUNE 27. Landed at Helsingfors at 1 a. m. A young 
Norwegian who speaks English and I got off and took a 
short walk uptown. I just had enough to whet my appe- 
tite for more at this place. I reached my farthest north, 



ST. PETERSBURG 41 

at least yesterday was the longest day I shall probably ever 
see. It was daylight all night. There is another town be- 
tween Stockholm and Christiania which is a little farther 
north than this, viz., 61 degrees north latitude, but when 
I arrive there the day will be a trifle shorter. After wan- 
dering around the town a little, came back and went to bed 
and did not get up till 9 :30. 

With the exception of two hours that I was writing a 
letter, spent the whole of day on deck. I was thinking it 
must be very warm in the city as it was hot enough on the 
boat, it being necessary to stay in the shade, but it was 
simply grand. There was hardly a ripple on the water, 
just like a sea of glass. Landed at St. Petersburg at 8 
o'clock and I wandered around until 11 :30 whenT went to 
bed. I thought by the simpleness of the front that this 
hotel was a cheap place, but didn't think so in the morning 
when I had to dig down for the sum of 80 cents. A splen- 
did day, very warm. A person might as well try to read 
Chinese as the Russian signs. I saw two or three wonder- 
ful buildings which looked like palaces but were churches. 

JUNE 28. Got some cakes at a bakery and started for a 
small park I had noticed, but took the wrong turn and 
walked a mile before I found out my mistake. Turned 
around and finally located the park. My, it was hot! It 
will certainly melt everybody before night. Stayed in the 
park until 10 o'clock, then took a short cut, passed a great 
palace, museum and half a dozen other noble buildings, 
then to the great cathedral, the finest in Russia, and stayed 
there for a couple of hours. Part of this was shown by a 
guide who could talk a little English. "Words fail me to 
picture the grandeur of this place. There were fine paint- 
ings, statues, then gold mosaic, gilt bronzes, alabaster, etc., 
and this not being enough, right near the main altar was 
a solid gold model of the cathedral that cost a million dol- 
lars to build and was guarded by a number of soldiers. 
More than ten million dollars was spent in the building 
and furnishing of this church. I could not help thinking 
of the millions of people in Russia that go to bed hungry 
every night. I also contrasted it with churches that I had 



42 ST. PETERSBURG 

attended in America as a church home, a cold depressing 
place. Like all the other great cathedrals of Europe it 
had no seats. After this I went to another bakery and got 
something to eat, then started for another park, passing 
another great church. I went in and gazed around for a 
few moments, afterwards continuing to the park where I 
stayed till 9, watching and noting many thousands who 
came under my observation during the five hours I was sit- 
ting there. I then took a long walk in a new direction 
and came upon a number of splendid churches, palaces, 
etc., and if the inside corresponds with the outside I saw 
the wonder of the world as far as churches are concerned. 
There are not adjectives large enough to describe one of 
these churches. It is built of brick with stone trimmings 
and there are minarets and turrets innumerable. All the 
way around are memorial tablets and a good half of the 
surface is covered with paintings. Part of the minarets 
are gold and the others jasper. On the front of this build- 
ing is a great painting of Christ. At the rear is another 
of the Virgin Mary. After this I wandered back to what 
I concluded to be the main corner of the city. It was then 
12 o'clock. 

JUNE 29. I am bringing my stay in this town to an 
end by having set up all night and seen the sights. It was 
daylight the whole night through. At 12 :30 I took a long 
walk, didn't get back to my corner until 2. Then sat 
down with some men who were heating tar and watched 
the people till 3 :30, then another walk, not getting back to 
my corner until 5. Then sat down and rubbered again till 
7. After this another long walk. Then after obtain- 
ing something to eat I took another stroll to the railway 
station, passing and entering a couple more churches on 
the w T ay. The station was a very tame affair for such a 
large city. I then went back to the park where I had 
spent most of the day before and rested for a couple of 
hours, I then went over some of my route of the fright to 
see if I could get into any of the grand churches, etc. 
Gained entrance to two or three more churches, but the 
grandest of the grand is closed to the public. 



ST. PETERSBURG 43 

I found out that this was the Czar's private church. I 
then wandered slowly back to the boat dock. Passing for 
a couple of miles along the banks of the Neva where an- 
other grand view is obtained, I observed a bunch of palaces, 
etc., which I hadn't inspected, but I had seen enough — I 
was surfeited. 

What a grand change a good ball game would have 
seemed to me. After getting my ticket and looking after 
one or two other matters I went aboard and stayed till the 
boat sailed at 6. "A night of torture." There was only 
one other man, the rest being women and children. The 
man got drunk and kept up a disturbance most of the night. 
I had my hands full trying to keep the peace. I got no 
sleep — that is a foregone conclusion. 

JUNE 30. Everything comes to an end at last and 
finally night dragged through and at 8 we tied up in Helsing- 
fors, Finland, and as we were to stay four hours I hustled 
ashore in order to see something of the town. I walked 
around for some time, then had quite a time hunting up 
post cards. At last got back to the boat, and after having 
something to eat I turned in and tried to get some sleep. 

Came on deck just as we were going into Hango, just 
before 6. On leaving Hango I got something to eat, and 
went on deck admiring the scenery until 10, when I turned 
in. I had no idea that I would find such a splendid city 
in what I had always thought a frozen-up country. Hel- 
singfors is a city of at least 150,000 population. 

JULY 1. After breakfast went on deck expecting to 
have a long stretch of sightseeing, as we were scheduled 
to get into Stockholm at 11 :30, and arrived at 9 :30 instead. 
Immediately I hunted up a place where I had spent one 
night when there before, and paid for a night's lodging. 
On account of the Olympic Games prices had gone up con- 
siderably. 

Just outside where the boats landed was anchored a ship 
called the Finland, which had been chartered to bring over 
the American contingent of athletes. As I was going up 
town I met one of the boys from Boston and asked him 



44 STOCKHOLM 

if he knew anything in regard to the standing of the base- 
ball teams. After this I viewed a couple of museums. 
After dinner went to the Public Library and stayed there 
until it closed at 6. After supper I went to the King's 
Park, a very beautiful place right near the palace where I 
listened to music until bedtime. 

JULY 2. After breakfast went to the station to get some 
information in regard to trains, afterwards going to the 
postoffice to see if there was any mail, then came back and 
went through the Kungl's Museet. In this were a great 
number of splendid paintings. 

After dinner went to the Library and read and wrote 
until 6. I intended going to the Stadium, but it was rain- 
ing, so postponed it until the morning. After supper took 
a long walk right out to the edge of the town, climbed a 
hill and at this point obtained a splendid view of the city 
and surrounding country. 

JULY 3. First thing in the morning went to the post- 
office and wrote and sent away a number of cards, also 
started a letter to a special friend in Detroit. After din- 
ner went to the Library and stayed until 6. After a 
baker 's lunch had a long walk, then attended an illustrated 
lecture on Sweden at the Y. M. C. A. This was splendid. 

JULY 4. After breakfast took a long walk until 11, 
then went to the Library where I stayed until 12 :30, then 
to my regular place for dinner. Had to wait for some time 
as there was a great crowd of children from out of town 
for dinner at this place. There being a football match 
scheduled for the Stadium at 3, I took a tram and went out 
only to find that a mistake had been made, the game not 
being called until evening. I then walked back to the dock 
from which launches were running to the Finland. I got 
aboard one of these, went out to the ship and stayed until 
6:30. Had a great time talking to the different Scandi- 
navian-Americans from parts of the country where I had 
been. 

At 6 :30 started for the Stadium to see the great football 



STOCKHOLM 45 

struggle for the first prize between England and Denmark. 
As I neared the place the crowd was something tremen- 
dous, besides the great procession of motor cars and street 
cars. I almost had to fight to get in and then had to stand 
up all through the performance, but I didn't mind this. 
Ordinarily I would get sleepy watching a game of football, 
but I didn't on this occasion. It was too interesting for 
that. The Danes must have been careless in the first half, 
as they let England run up a score of five before the half 
was nearly over. Then one of the best Danish players 
was hurt. The queerest part of the whole thing was that 
with one man short the Danes seemed invincible, never 
letting England have a "look in" after this and scoring 
twice themselves. One of the main features was the won- 
derful playing of the Danish goal keeper. 

The King, Queen, the Crown Prince, the Crown Princess, 
one of the sons of Kaiser "William, Prince Dimetri of 
Eussia and other royalties were present. A few minutes 
before the players came on the field for the second half, the 
Crown Prince came to the entrance of the tunnel under the 
track and spent a few minutes bowing to the cheering 
crowd, then shook hands with all the contestants as they 
came on the field. I was lucky enough to be within fifty 
feet of him and observed him closely. A few minutes be- 
fore the close of the game the three winning football teams 
— England, Denmark and Holland — paraded up and down 
past the Royal box and were congratulated and presented 
with their prizes by the King. 

The interior of the Stadium was magnificent. I counted 
fifty-three flags, and there must have been ten thousand 
people present at this game. This finished my stay in 
Stockholm. 

JULY 5. Arose at 4 :30. Finished the letter for Detroit, 
went to the station early. At 8 started for Christiania. 
The day was fine and had a grand journey of fifteen hours' 
duration. The scenery was a continual variation — farm 
land, pine clad hills, rivers, mountains and lakes. At 
Karlstad and Christianhamm we obtained a view of a lake, 
the second largest in Europe. 



46 CHRISTIANIA 

Eighty miles of this 375-mile trip was through Norway, 
and nearly the whole distance near the banks of a large 
river. All through the farming communities people were 
busy haying. They are up-to-date in this country as well 
as in America, because I saw mowers and rakes in action 
everywhere. They have a peculiar way of putting up hay 
after it is cured. They shove six or eight sharp pointed 
small poles into the ground, these being about eight feet 
high, and then drape the hay over these. Oxen are gen- 
erally used throughout this country instead of horses. 

About noon as I was stretching my legs at one of the 
stops I heard someone say, "Hello, there/' and looking 
around I saw a face that seemed familiar, and lo and be- 
hold ! it was one of the passengers who had crossed on the 
Celtic with me. Well, for a couple of hours, or until he 
got off, we had a grand talk. This young fellow is from 
Chicago, and is going back in the fall, and I have an idea 
he is not going alone, as he received a very affectionate 
welcome from a young lady who was not his sister when 
he got off the train. 

"Well, all good things end and at last at 11 we came into 
Christiania and I lost no time in hunting up a place to 
camp. In about half an hour I stopped at a place where 
a man could speak a little English and there I found lodg- 
ing for the night. I found I was to sleep in the main 
room of the house with another man. Just as I had pre- 
pared for bed two men came in, both of whom could speak 
English. One had just come back from America after an 
absence of ten years. If I had not been so tired I would 
have enjoyed a talk, but as it was I let this man do all the 
talking. He had been in seventeen different states and 
over most of Canada, and it was 12 :30 when at last I got 
to sleep. 

JULY 6. After breakfast I started out to get the lay 
of the town. Went to the postoffice and was very much 
disappointed to find that there was nothing for me. Strolled 
around for a couple of hours, located the main street and 
the principal business places, then stopped a man and 
asked him if he could speak English, to find he had spent 



CHEISTIANIA 47 

four years in America. Had probably an hour's talk with 
him. He pointed out all the principal buildings which 
were in sight. 

The palace is on the top of a low hill; the main street 
starts from here and runs about a mile to the Central sta- 
tion. For half the distance the street must be at least 150 
feet in width; in the center is a park probably ten feet 
wide. Just after leaving the palace, on the left, is the 
University, a low structure consisting of a main building 
and two wings, the whole exceeding 1,000 feet in length. 
On the right is the King's Theatre, which I at first took 
for the palace. This is a noble structure, and along with 
the University is comparatively a new building. 

At the end of this wide part of the street, and taking 
up the central space, are the Parliament buildings. Be- 
hind the University on another street is the King's Museum 
and a little farther down is the Public Library. 

At 2 o'clock, after a late dinner, I hunted up this place 
and stayed till it closed at 7 p. m., then I took a long walk 
along the docks and crossed a small canal, and went almost 
to the outer edge of the town; passed the boat on which 
I expected to sail for Leith and had a short talk with one 
of the crew, he confirming what I had already heard that 
it would take nearly five days to make the trip, as they 
stopped at several places along the coast of Norway, pick- 
ing up cargo. This should be an interesting trip. 

At 9 p. m. I located a lodging house. This is generally a 
hard proposition, as I cannot speak the language. If I had 
plenty of money, and didn't care for expenses, I would 
have no trouble, but I could never have made a trip of this 
kind in the first place if I had w T aited till I had sufficient 
money to travel first class. 

At last, after sizing up several places, I made a plunge 
and connected all right, having to pay 60 ores, about 18 
cents, which was very reasonable. I was shown my bed, 
and told that they closed at 11 p. in,, so I again went forth 
and sat in the park in the main street until it was time to 
turn in. 

I missed the great crowds and excitement of Stockholm. 
The day was just right. A woman ran the place where I 



48 CHEISTIANIA 

located. The room where I slept was on the ground floor, 
near the eenter and consequently there were people going 
back and forth nearly half the night, and I didn't obtain 
much sleep. 

JULY 7. Just as I was washing, the landlady came in 
with two cups of coffee, one for me and one for another 
man who was in the same room, and remembering other oc- 
casions when it was hard to get anything to eat on Sunday 
I had bought some baker 's stuff. This with the coffee made 
a good breakfast. 

On going out on the street and finding a drizzling rain in 
progress, I went to the station which was close by and 
wrote for a while in my diary, then took a long walk past 
two great churches and industrial museums and out to the 
cemetery. 

After dinner I went to the State Museum. I didn't 
hurry through this but enjoyed a great number of paint- 
ings. Discovered another museum just near which was 
open from 6 to 8. After this took a long walk up past the 
palace through the park and out to the outskirts of the 
city. Finally came back about 6, had something to eat, 
then wandered down to the dock. After looking around 
awhile I decided to take a trip on one of the small steamers. 
I certainly made no mistake. After a run of twenty min- 
utes we landed on a large island and I followed the crowd 
to the Folksmusett, not knowing what it was but taking a 
chance. I found a large building which was completely 
filled with old furniture and household goods of every 
description, also dresses, musical instruments, trunks, 
chests, etc. These belonged to rich and poor alike. 

Right beside this building was an old church. As I 
came out of the museum I noticed this and on going in 
found it to be filled with curios also*. Back of this build- 
ing was a small valley, and to the right a great hill cov- 
ered with the primeval forest. Altogether this must have 
covered five or six hundred acres. Scattered all through 
the valley and forest were probably fifty buildings, all of 
these being upwards of two hundred years old. In each 
is the old-time furniture. A girl in charge was dressed 



CHRISTIANIA 49 

in ancient costume of the time when the house was built. 

I was certainly glad that I had a "hunch" to take this 
trip. One of the largest buildings I saw is a restaurant 
and near by is a small kirk. 

I spent a couple of very profitable hours sightseeing, 
then went back to the city, sat in the park and watched 
the crowds till 11, when I turned in. 

JULY 8. "While still in bed the landlady brought in a 
cup of coffee. This was the finest place I had struck so 
far. The coffee I found was gratis. 

After breakfast I went up town and sat down in a small 
park and did some writing. Then went to the Library. 
Thought I would find it open, but was disappointed. 
Went over to another small park and read an old news- 
paper until noon. 

After dinner took a long stroll. Went to the Library 
at 2. Found it would not be open until 7. Did not know 
what to do as it was rather hot in the sun, so sat down in 
the main street park and wrote awhile. 

Noticed the best appliances in the way of a street sprin- 
kler I have seen while on this trip. The revolving of drums 
sprinkles the water. Had a short talk with a young fel- 
low who had spent a year in New York. 

A boy came along passing out hand bills, advertising Hire's 
Root Beer. In the bill the statement was made that this 
was the National beverage of America. A fine looking, in- 
telligent, well-dressed Jap passed while I was sitting here. 
Just noticed a wagon go by on which was a sign, "Kul 
Koks and Ved." 

Stayed in park until 5, and then back to the 
Library, which was only one block away, and perused a 
magazine until 7. After supper went to the Branch sta- 
tion and copied a list of towns I had passed through in 
Norway and Sweden. As it had turned quite cool and 
was trying to rain, went to my room for an umbrella and 
then went up to the park and stayed there until 11. 

JULY 9. Started out to climb a high hill just back 
of the town. Passed by the Scotland, the boat I was in- 



50 CHRISTIANIA 

tending to go back to Leith on, and thought I would make 
inquiries in regard to exact time of departure, only to be 
grievously disappointed to find that instead of going to- 
morrow they would not sail until Friday. 

This entailed a change on my part, as I was just holding 
down the place until "Wednesday and did not see how I 
could stand it to wait a couple more days, so as there was 
a boat for Hull Wednesday I concluded to go there in- 
stead. This is where I had originally intended to land and 
it will be all right. 

It was only a matter of sentiment on my part going 
back to Leith as I would have wasted several days and 
considerable money just for the pleasure of a few hours 
more with my Leith friends. I climbed the hill and it 
was superb. The road led up the side and a very fine 
view of the city and harbor was obtained all the way up. 
On top was a virgin forest which appeared as it would a 
hundred miles from civilization, instead of just outside 
the great city. 

I spent the time until noon strolling around admiring 
the view. After dinner went through the museum which 
w T as filled with oriental relics. After this went to the 
Library and read until 7. After having some supper I 
took a long walk bringing up at the dock where the Hull 
boat, the Eskimo, was tied up. This was a beautiful boat, 
one of the largest in these waters. 

JULY 10. Went to the postoffice and wrote and sent 
off several cards and letters to Detroit, then to the ticket 
office, bought a ticket for Hull, and had to deposit $25 
as I was not a British subject. Luckily for me I had the 
change, without having to cash any of my checks. After 
this I took the last long walk, then over to the street park, 
where I did some writing and watched the crowd until 12. 
Then down to the boat. On going aboard I met an old 
Londoner, who had been on a holiday trip to Norway and 
we struck up a conversation right away and spent most 
of the afternoon talking about this trip. 

He had been through the different parts of Norway and 
was bubbling over with enthusiasm with regard to his 
trip, and I let him bubble, gaining a lot of information. 



HULL 51 

We were four hours going down through the Fiord, 
which was a continuous panorama. After supper we 
stayed below until it was time to turn in, showing each 
other post cards. 

JULY 11. It being pretty rough stayed in dining room 
and conversed with my London friend until noon. After 
dinner stayed below and watched some Norwegians play 
cards, then went up on deck for awhile, then took a nap 
until tea time, afterward had a talk with a man from South 
Dakota. Then turned in. 

JULY 12. Boat tied up in Hull at 2 a. m. Got up at 
5, had breakfast and did not get off the boat until 8 as I 
had to wait and undergo considerable in the red-tape line, 
on account of the Alien act. 

After waiting some time the Doctor showed up and 
examined me and I was let go. Chatted awhile with my 
London friend until he took the train for the city. I then 
located the Northeastern railway station and looked over 
the list of Saturday's excursions and decided to go to 
Leeds next day. 

I then hunted up a museum and went through. There 
was a very nice collection of natural history curios. Then 
went to Library until noon. After dinner although it was 
very hot, I took a long walk, afterwards going back to the 
Library, staying there until supper time. 

On going out to look for supper was caught in a storm 
and had to seek shelter under a shed at one of the docks 
with a number of others. This was a very severe storm 
and lasted upwards of an hour. Afterwards it being a 
little cooler I took a long walk until bedtime. 

JULY 13. After breakfast I took a long walk, passing 
by the market. This is a fair sized building and the stalls 
extend all the way around the outside. I then went to 
the Hull Cathedral which occupies an entire square. This 
is a very old church. One memorial plate I noticed was 
dated 1630. After this went through the City Art Insti- 
tute where there is a very good collection of paintings, 



52 LEEDS 

among them being the picture of Peter the Great, and 
Catherine, his wife. These were given to the then Mayor 
of Hull in token of the kindness and help received when 
he was learning something of shipbuilding in the Hull 
Shipyards. After dinner took another long walk to the 
station where I took a train for Leeds. Hull, a city of 
about 300,000, is one of the great ports of England and is 
especially noted for its shipyards. On the way to Leeds 
passed through a fine farming country, went through a 
very long tunnel nearly a mile in length, got into Leeds 
at 3, and then proceeded to hunt up a place to stay. This 
done I started to see the town. This is a great manufac- 
turing and commercial city about the size of Detroit, has 
several fine squares and buildings, notably the City Hall, 
Postoffice, Public Library and Art Building. I wandered 
into a market and stayed there for a couple of hours. This 
is a truly wonderful place. A great round enclosure, with 
glass roof and containing hundreds of stands and shops of 
every kind. It was very interesting to wander through 
this place and listen to the conversation of the different 
kinds of people. After supper, hunted up the Public 
Library. There is an Art Gallery in connection with this 
which I went through. I stayed in Library until it closed 
at /9 :30, then went to bed. 

JULY 14. After breakfast took a long walk and then 
went to church. Heard a very good sermon and it seemed 
good to be able to attend a service of this kind once more. 
After dinner went out to the largest park, strolled around 
awhile and then from 3 to 5 listened to a sacred band con- 
cert, afterwards going back to the city, attending church 
at 6:30. At 8 there was an open air meeting just across 
the way in front of the City Hall. This was a fine place 
for the purpose, there being a great number of steps lead- 
ing up to the entrance and three great statues, which were 
as good as pulpits in the front. There were four meetings 
going on at the same time, all different. One speaker was 
a Buddhist, another an Atheist, another a Socialist and the 
last a preacher. This was a Union meeting of Baptists, 
Congregationalists, Presbyterians and Methodists and there 
was a very good crowd. 



BRADFORD 53 

JULY 15. After breakfast, went to the Library where, 
with the exception of one hour at noon, I stayed studying 
and getting data of my continental trip. It *was a very 
hot day and when I finished I w T as all in. After supper I 
started for my room, but passing by the Y. M. C. A., drifted 
in and stayed until 10, studying out the rest of my trip 
through England. On every hand, I heard a great deal of 
talk in regard to the Health Insurance Act which came 
into force that day. This act compels every worker, both 
male and female, to pay a stipulated amount, according to 
wages. I saw by the paper, that evening, that great num- 
bers of workers had gone on strike and there had been con- 
siderable rioting. 

JULY 16. After breakfast had a hair cut and shave, 
then after a last stroll took a street car to Bradford, a dis- 
tance of nine miles, obtaining another good view of Leeds 
as well as a partial view of Bradford, also passed through 
Bramley and a few miles of farming country. Arrived 
at Bradford at 10:30; found a stopping place by 11, and 
spent the time till 2 writing to a Detroit friend. After 
iaving dinner went to the Y. M. C. A., staying till 5 writ- 
ing a letter to my Leith friends. After supper, it being 
somewhat cooler, started out to see something of the town, 
and strolled around till 10. The City Hall appears to be 
in a depression as a number of streets run up hill from 
this point. Bradford is a great manufacturing city, one 
of the largest woolen mills of the world being located here. 
Not much of a place for tourists although there are several 
fine squares, notably Victoria and Forster. The City Hall 
and Postoffice are fine buildings, also the Technical College. 
About 8 :30 I wandered into one of the stations and after 
looking over a number of excursion bills made up my mind 
to leave at 8 the next morning. This is a great country 
for cheap excursions, which helps me out in keeping down 
expense. Tomorrow I can buy a round trip to Liverpool 
for 3/3 (78 cents), while the regular one-way fare is 6/5 
($1.54), a little more than half for the former and I shall 
have the return part for a souvenir. I shall be able to 
take advantage of these excursions during my sojourn in 
this country. I turned into bed at 10:30. 



54 LIVERPOOL 

JULY 17. Went to station intending to take train for 
Fleetwood on arrival and after going carefully over bills, 
found there was an excursion to Liverpool at 1, which 
suited me better. I decided to go this way and wrote a 
letter to the secretary of the Y. M. C. A. in Dublin, asking 
him to ship my suit case that I had left there in his charge. 
I then strolled around the city until noon. After dinner, 
went to the station and boarded a train for Liverpool. 
This was a fine trip, through a very hilly country, there 
being a number of small and three quite long tunnels. 
Very little farming land in this whole district, most of the 
land along the tracks being covered with buildings in the 
shape of towns or cities or else the coal mines. About 
midway the city of Manchester was passed. Arriving at 
Liverpool at 3 :30 started out to locate a lodging house and 
within a few minutes passed several. 

Walked around for some time, finally coming down to 
the docks where were the ferries for Birkenhead. Facing 
the pier, a short distance away, were two great buildings, 
viz., Royal Liver, and Pier and DoclHmildings. These are 
not only grand buildings, surmounted by towers and 
statues, but are the highest I have seen on this side of the 
water. I stayed at the pier watching the crowds until 6, 
and after supper hunted up the Library and read and 
studied until bedtime. 

JULY 18. Strolled around the city until 10, stopped 
in Cook's Tourist Excursion office to find out about the 
excursions, then went through an art gallery where a 
magnificent collection of pictures is displayed. 

After dinner visited the City Museum. This was some- 
thing unique, there being a collection of antiquities from 
all over the world, also clothes, utensils, etc., from foreign 
countries. There was also a fair sized aquarium. 

After this I went to the Library, read a book about Bel- 
gium, which in view of the trip I expected to take through 
that country, was very interesting. After supper took 
another walk out to a small park and listened to a band 
concert given by a band whose membership were blind. 
While there got into conversation with a man in regard to 



DOUGLAS 55 

work, wages, conditions, etc., prevailing in the city. Found 
out that he worked for 50 cents a day. 

On the other side of the park were long rows of brand 
new three-story tenements erected by the city. These are 
the finest buildings for housing the poorer people I ever 
saw. 

I then walked back to the Union Station and watched a 
crowd for some time. Took special notice of electric trains 
which are run out of the city about thirty miles in several 
directions. Went home at 10. 

JULY 19. Look over the paper a few minutes then 
started out on an all day sight-seeing tour. "Went through 
a great Central Market not quite as grand as the one in 
Leeds. Passed a great department store, then a couple of 
churches and finally at 10 came down to a great building 
which proved to be a kind of a Municipal Hotel, something 
like the Mills Hotel in New York. Went in and investi- 
gated. There was a grand entrance like a five dollar a 
day house. Splendid dining, smoking and reading rooms, 
and the charge for a room was only 12 cents, and the prices 
for meals was on the same scale. 

I sat down and wrote until nearly 11, had dinner and 
then inspected the docks, and the loading and unloading of 
boats until 7. After supper looked over papers and wrote 
until 9. Went to bed. 

JULY 20. Went down to Cook's Tourist office and 
bought an excursion ticket for the Isle of Man. Went 
down to the dock and boarded the boat which left at 10. At 
1 :30, after a very rough voyage, the eighty miles were 
covered and we tied up at the dock at Douglas. This is 
a great summer resort. I do not know how the people 
manage to exist in the winter as every other home seems 
to be a hotel or boarding house. The majority of the peo- 
ple here must be Methodists as I passed several churches 
of this persuasion and only one of another denomination. 

The city is built up the side of a great hill, some of the 
streets being very steep. There is an evening promenade 
around the harbor, a couple of miles in length. After 



56 LIVERPOOL 

strolling around for some time I came back to the boat and 
went down below where I found it was more comfortable 
than on the upper deck and thoroughly enjoyed the trip 
back to Liverpool, as the most of the time I conversed with 
a gentleman who had been in America. A great number 
were seasick coming from Liverpool, but none on the re- 
turn voyage. On going ashore I had supper and went 
to the Library and stayed until bedtime. 

JULY 21. After looking over a paper I started out to 
hunt up a Methodist Church, walked till after 11 and gave 
it up as a bad job. "Went into a small church of different 
denomination and heard a very good sermon. Afterward 
I found a great Methodist Church just around the corner 
where the president of a conference, which is now in ses- 
sion, will preach this evening. At this time I just remem- 
bered that this is my birthday. 

After dinner showed my collection of post cards to a 
number of the lodgers, then went out to hunt up a meet- 
ing. As I came beside St. George's Hall met a band and 
a procession of ministers and stopped to see what was 
going to happen. They stopped in front of the hall and 
when a crowd assembled a singing-leaf was distributed, a 
couple of songs were sung, and after a short prayer four 
different ministers gave a short talk. To wind up, the 
great and only Gypsy Smith gave a splendid address. 

This was a treat I had no idea would be bestowed on me 
as I did not know he was in the city. I then went back 
to my lodging and after writing awhile had supper and 
went to the great Central Hall where the Methodist con- 
ference was being held. I had first thought it was the 
Y. M. C. A. till I made an inquiry. I got there at 6 :30 and 
although the meeting didn't start until 7 I was none too 
early as the building was jammed full before the meeting 
started. A fine sermon was preached by the president of 
the conference. After the meeting I went home and to 
bed. 

JULY 22. Was intending to go to Blackpool but I 
didn't go; it was too cold and looked like rain. "Wandered 



MANCHESTER 57 

along the docks till noon. After dinner went to the Li- 
brary and read till snpper time, afterwards strolled around 
for a couple of hours and went to bed. 

JULY 23. I went to the station to find out about train 
for Manchester and boarded a train at 9:40. Had a de- 
lightful journey of forty minutes' duration. On leaving 
the station I hunted up a lodging and then strolled around 
till dinner time, afterward located the main part of the 
city and traveled around considerably. Talked for a while 
in a Library and went into the Y. M. 0. A. for a few min- 
utes. This appears to be a flourishing institution but 
nothing like the Y. M. C. A. in Detroit. 

The City Hall and Postoffice are two splendid buildings. 
There are several fine squares — Victorian, the leading one, 
where great monuments in memory of the Queen and the 
Duke of Wellington are set up. After supper I started 
for the Library but on the way ran into what appeared to 
be a great number of boy soldiers, watched them going 
through the evolutions for awhile and then went on to the 
Library where I stayed figuring out Bradshaw until they 
closed up at 10. 

JULY 24. I went to the Library and stayed till noon. 
After dinner took a long walk and wound up at the Art 
Gallery where I spent a couple of hours inspecting the 
pictures. I then went to the Library and stayed till 6. 
After supper took a long walk and passing the great rail- 
way station went into the library at the excursion building. 
I then went back to the Library where I stayed till 10. 

JULY 25. As it had rained during the night and was 
still threatening I gave up the notion of going to Black- 
pool. I am afraid I am getting lazy as I went to Library 
and stayed there till noon. Then after dinner I took a 
short walk and went back and stayed till supper time. 
But after supper I took a long walk out to Canning's Park, 
coming through an art gallery and then sitting out by a 
little lake enjoying the air and the conversation of those 
around me till 9, when the park closed. I then went to a 



58 MANCHESTER 

Branch Library which is just outside the park, stayed 
there till 10 o'clock, looking up Bradshaw. 

JULY 26. Went to the Library where, with the excep- 
tion of an hour at noon, stayed till 6. Got a hold of a 
book entitled "Round the World in a Motor Car" and 
could not leave it until I finished reading. This was cer- 
tainly a lazy day with me. I have been eating at a restau- 
rant where dinner and supper have each cost me the large 
sum of six cents. A bowl of soup 2c, bread 2c, a plum 
pudding 2c. A description of one of these cheap restau- 
rants would not come amiss. 

The front part cannot be more than 12 by 16, is divided 
into three stalls and besides there is a short counter and a 
small place behind where as well as in the window the food 
is stored. I noticed their busiest time is between 1 and 2 
and I have planned to get there accordingly in order to en- 
joy hearing and seeing the many kinds and conditions of 
people who come to this place. I never get tired listening 
to their conversation. 

That evening at 7 I boarded a tram for Heaton Park, the 
largest in the city. This is more like a great common or 
field, being left apparently in its natural state. It is right 
out at the edge of the city and must be a delightful breath- 
ing place. It comprises more than 500 acres. I spent a 
couple of hours roaming hither and thither. It did my 
poor feet a world of good to be able to tread on something 
softer than pavement once more. I did not get back to 
my room until about 10. 

JULY 27. After a stroll I came upon a great depart- 
ment store and went through to see how it compared with 
stores of the same kind in America, afterwards going to 
the Library where I read till noon. After this I wrote a 
number of cards and a letter. At 2 I boarded a train for 
Sheffield. This was through a very rough country. Dur- 
ing the latter part of the journey we passed through two 
tunnels, one of these being three miles in length. It 
started to rain and when we arrived at Sheffield it was 
coming down in chunks. 



SHEFFIELD 59 

I waited in the station for an hour when it let up a 
little, I then started out to hunt a lodging. I was com- 
pletely tired out before I succeeded. After supper stood at 
the main corner and watched a crowd awhile and then 
went to the Library and read till 9. Then back to the 
main part of the city where I was astonished to see the 
tremendous crowds of people. I thought it was a dis- 
turbance of some kind at first, but soon found out that it 
continued to continue. Not only the sidewalks but the 
streets were one mass. I stood fascinated for upwards of 
an hour, then went through the fish and meat market. 
Being tired out I went to my room. 

JULY 28. After breakfast wrote awhile, and at 8:30 
started out in the rain for a stroll. As it kept on raining 
harder and harder and the wind was blowing quite hard, 
on reaching the Y. M. C. A. I went in and stayed till 
10 :30, then went to church and heard a very good sermon. 
The minister did what I noticed seemed to be a custom in 
this country, gave a short talk to the children before start- 
ing on his main discourse. 

After dinner another long stroll, winding up at the Y. M. 
C. A. at 3, where I listened to an address by a young man 
from Syria, which was very interesting. Afterwards an- 
other long walk, winding up at my lodging at 5, where, 
after writing for a time, I had supper. 

Right in the center of the town is the plant of Joseph 
Rogers & Sons, established 1682. 

After supper again attended church. I went early, 
otherwise I would have found it hard to obtain a seat. It 
was certainly a great contrast between the morning and 
evening services. In the morning there were probably two 
hundred, and in the evening there must have been two 
thousand. The church, which is called Victoria Hall, is 
something like the great Central Hall in Manchester. I 
heard a very good sermon on the Parable of the Talents. 

As the service was over at 8, I took another long stroll 
before going home to bed. 

JULY 29. After breakfast I did some sewing, which 
I had been putting off for some time; afterwards started 



60 ILKESTON 

off to find some gasoline but didn't succeed. After another 
walk went to the Library, where I stayed till dinner. 
After dinner went to the station and at 2 boarded the 
train for Ilkeston, via Nottingham. This is a roundabout 
way, and caused me to travel sixty miles in order to go a 
distance of thirty. I wanted a slow train and roundabout 
road in order to see something of the country, and I cer- 
tainly got my fill. "We seemed to just get started when it 
stopped. 

Chesterfield is the largest place between Sheffield and 
Nottingham, and its population is nearly 25,000. A great 
number of collieries were passed and there were a few bits 
of country between the small towns. 

There was a great quantity of hay cut and lying on the 
ground, and as it had rained more or less for a couple of 
weeks it looked as though it would be all spoiled. 

It was not until 5 o'clock that I landed at Ilkeston. I 
then hunted up some people — friends of people I knew in 
Detroit — and after making myself known I received a very 
warm welcome and spent the evening and night there. 
As I had not had a good old-fashioned talk since I left the 
Cassels in Leith I made up for lost time. What with talk- 
ing and showing post cards, curios and other relics, it was 
12 before I got to bed. 

JULY 30. After breakfast we talked awhile and just 
as the man of the house was going out I started to bid him 
good-by intending to see a little of the town and then go 
on to Nottingham, but he wouldn't hear to such a thing, 
and as a touch of home life is something that I do not 
taste very often, it was not very hard to persuade me to 
stay. I then took a long walk out beyond the outskirts 
of the town, and on coming back stopped in the Library 
and read for awhile, not getting back to the house till noon. 

After dinner talked and talked some more, first to one 
and then to the other till tea time. Afterwards I w T ent 
out to hunt up other people whose address I had, but got 
lost and didn't locate them till after 8. I visited with 
them, talking and showing them post cards till 11, when 
I went back to my home. 



NOTTINGHAM 61 

JULY 31. Talked to the lady of the house till 10, then 
took a long walk to see something of the town, not getting 
back till noon. After dinner talked and wrote till just 
before 4, when we had tea, and then accompanied by the 
man of the house I went to the station and took train for 
Nottingham. A young fellow whom this gentleman knew 
was also going on the same train, so we got into a compart- 
ment together and had an enjoyable conversation. 

On leaving the train we walked up town together to the 
police headquarters. I wanted to obtain the address of 
John Franklin, a policeman, and brother of a Detroit 
friend. I spent an hour tramping through the rain and 
riding on street cars before I found the place, and then 
was unable to obtain admittance. I wandered around for 
another hour, and on coming back found the people at 
home. After a few minutes' conversation we walked 
downtown and after we located a stopping place for me 
I bid him "good-by. " I then went to the Library which 
was close by and stayed there till 10 o'clock, when I went 
to bed. 

AUGUST 1. Started out to do what I should have done 
yesterday, had it not been for hunting up Franklin, viz: 
hunt up a cheap lodging house and restaurant. Wan- 
dered around till 10, finding what I wanted and finally 
winding up at the Midland station, where I rested and 
wrote up my diary, then to the Library where I stayed till 
noon. 

After dinner took a long walk, coming upon the great 
Nottingham Castle, and spent a couple of hours going 
through the grounds and museum that is attached to the 
building. Nottingham is especially noted for its lace. 
There was a fine display of lace, as well as a great number 
of relics and antiquities, and also a fine collection of 
paintings. 

The old castle, which was partly destroyed in 1831, has 
an interesting history, going back to "William I. It was 
held by both sides during the "War of the Roses.' ' Was 
also held by both Charles I. and Cromwell. 

After finishing the castle I went to the Library and 



62 BIRMINGHAM 

stayed until 6. After supper I took a long walk past the 
market square where a great crowd was gathered and on 
inquiring I found they were the Reserves to the number 
of two thousand and were being inspected by the Duke of 
Portland, the great magnate of this part. I stayed till the 
conclusion of the show and then went to the Library where 
I read till bedtime. 

AUGUST 2. After breakfast took a long walk and then 
went to the Library where I sat until noon. Then another 
long walk which lasted till dinner. After dinner went to 
the station where I boarded a train for Birmingham. 

Nottingham is a very pretty place, quite hilly, and it 
is noted especially for its lace and great open air market. 

On the train I discovered a fellow traveler who had 
spent ten years in America, equally divided between 
New York and California. We talked continuously until 
3 :30 when the train rolled into the station at Birmingham. 
As my fellow traveler was going farther on, we said "good- 
bye" at this place. 

I then started out to locate a lodging house, and after 
walking a couple of blocks I stopped a man, and on in- 
quiring was directed to a place known as the Rowton 
House. The place proved to be a magnificent structure, 
something after the order of the Mills Hotel in New York. 
The interior of the sitting room was finished in marble 
and fancy brick. The corner stone was laid by Princess 
Helena, one of Queen Victoria's daughters, and the charge 
for a room in this magnificent place is only twelve cents 
a night. 

I spent an hour writing letters, then had supper. Then 
wrote and read until 8, afterwards another walk until 
bedtime. 

AUGUST 3. Started out to see something of the city. 
Went to Cook's office and looked over excursion bills; 
found out it would pay me to go to Stratford and return, 
as there was an extra cheap excursion on Wednesday to 
Bristol. I then left at 11 for Stratford, arriving at 12. 

The twentv-seven miles traveled looked more like coun- 



STRATFORD ON AVON 63 

try than any other part of England I have yet seen. It 
was certainly a beautiful stretch. 

The first place I hunted up was Shakespeare 's birthplace 
and after paying a small fee of twelve cents was shown 
through the building. This certainly looked old enough. 
In the birth room up to about thirty years ago people 
were allowed to write their names on the walls, window- 
panes, and these different places are literally covered with 
names. Those of Robert Browning, Sir Walter Scott, 
General Tom Thumb and his wife w T ere pointed out to me. 

In the garden all the flowers mentioned in the works of 
Shakespeare are grown. I then went to a small park by 
the river and sat down and watched the passers-by for 
awhile, and then took another walk and passed the Hath- 
away Cottage, the Marie Corelli Home, the Trinity 
Harris Church and yard, and then went on to the Midland 
Station, where I rested and did some writing. 

There being a field close by where haying operations 
were being carried on, I went over to investigate. The 
machines were running different from anything I have 
ever seen before. One shook it up and another raked it 
into windrows. They were drawing in with one-horse 
carts, one man loading, two pitching on, and a boy lead- 
ing the horse. This was a slow, crude process and was 
very hard work compared with the way we would do work 
of the same kind in America. 

In a few minutes it started to rain and I with some 
others had to take shelter under a bridge. While there 
I questioned a young fellow in regard to work, conditions 
and wages. I learned that the haymakers, that is, those 
who do the hardest work, receive eight cents per hour and 
board themselves. This young fellow was a bricklayer, 
the best paying trade we have. When he works he receives 
the magnificent sum of fourteen cents per hour. I must 
have spent an hour in boosting America to the small crowd 
that gathered around. 

Then took another walk winding up at the station where 
I took a train at 5 o'clock for Birmingham. As this train 
stopped at every crossroad we didn't get to the city 
until 7. After supper I stayed in the lodging house, 
reading and writing until I went to bed at 9. 



64 BIRMINGHAM 

AUGUST 4. While having breakfast I got into conver- 
sation with a young fellow from New York who had 
traveled over the world considerably. He seemed to have 
a good education and did not look like a ' ' down and out. ' ' 
After this I started out to locate a church; remembering 
the great halls in Liverpool and Sheffield, I inquired if 
there was one of the same kind here and was directed to a 
great hall on the main street. I entered the same time as 
the minister, who conversed with me a couple of minutes 
at the entrance, and afterwards preached a very good ser- 
mon to an abominably small congregation. 

At dinner the young man, whom I had met in the morn- 
ing, joined me and we conversed until 2 :30, when I started 
for another meeting. The same minister spoke to what 
was called the Brotherhood. Although this was another 
case of a small crowd he gave them a splendid address. 
Afterwards I took a long walk, passing two magnificent 
buildings — the City Hospital and the County Courts. This 
hospital is one of the finest in the British Isles, 

At 5 I landed back at the lodging house where I wrote 
until supper time, and then went to church where I found 
a large crowd and heard another good sermon. After 
church I went straight home and went to bed. 

AUGUST 5. While eating breakfast and for some time 
afterward was sizing up the crowd in the great place. At 
this point a description of this establishment will not come 
amiss. It is a great building in the shape of a hollow 
square about 300 by 200 feet. There are 819 sleeping 
rooms besides two great sitting rooms, a writing room, 
baths, a barber shop, 800 lockers, a laundry, dining room, 
kitchen, etc. The dining room occupies a hollow square. 
It is 125 by 75 feet with seats and tables for 850. In two 
alcoves off this are great ranges for the benefit of those 
who prefer to do their own cooking. Anyone paying 
eighty-four cents for the week's lodging can have the use 
of the locker in which he may keep his food and prepare 
his meals. 

The lodging is cheap enough but I have yet to see one 
of these places where as good a meal can be obtained as 



BIRMINGHAM 65 

I used to get in Detroit for the same money. , Of course 
you can get a number of items separately very cheap, but 
if you were to build up a meal like you can get at a num- 
ber of the fifteen cent restaurants in Detroit it would cost 
considerably more. 

At 10 I started out to hunt up the Art Gallery and 
Museum, hardly expecting them to be open as that was 
known as Bank Holiday and is observed all over England. 
I was greatly surprised to find the Museum open and 
spent two hours going through it, then spent a short time 
in the Library, which was also open, then a short walk, 
then dinner. I stopped and watched a crowd until 2 :30 
when I again went back to the Library, where I stayed 
until 7 and returned to the lodging house for supper. 

At supper I had an interesting conversation with an old 
gentleman in regard to conditions in England and America. 
Afterwards I went up to the sitting room and watched a 
game of checkers, and wrote and read until bedtime. 

AUGUST 6. Took a long walk out to Calthorpe Park, 
one of the small parks of the city, where I stayed for a 
couple of hours, walking around. Afterwards came back 
to the lodgings, where I read a paper and watched the 
crowd cooking, etc., then I had dinner. 

Afterwards took another long walk uptown, winding up 
at the Y. M. C. A. where I stayed until 6 :30, reading. I 
would have left sooner, but it rained and continued to rain. 
I walked through the downpour to my lodging. Stood 
by the stove for awhile and then had supper. 

After supper went into the room where a tailor holds 
out and had some necessary repairs done to my coat. He 
spent nearly two hours doing several other pieces of work 
and I was thinking I would have a fine bill but did not 
like to tell him to quit. I nearly dropped when he said 
it would cost a shilling. I then showed the tailor some of 
my postal cards and then went to bed. 

AUGUST 7. As it was raining I stayed in and read 
until 11. Then I started for Bristol, ninety-two miles 
away. This was a delightful trip as we passed through a 



66 BRISTOL 

long stretch of farming country. The train was a fast one 
and I strained my eyes looking out of the window. 

We passed through the noted old cities of Gloucester 
and Worcester, finally landing at Bristol at 2. My first 
business was to hunt up a lodging. Just after leaving the 
station I was directed by a young man to a place about 
a mile away, but after traveling probably half the dis- 
tance I found out that I had deliberately forgotten the 
address and after wandering around a while trying to 
locate the place I gave it up as a bad job and made further 
inquiries, when I was directed to another place, which I 
located without any trouble. 

This was a fine building, something like the one in Bir- 
mingham, only a little smaller. It was situated on a small 
stream, and at the time I arrived there was a great crowd 
watching the stream. It seems that a small boy had fallen 
in further up, a short time before, and they were watching 
to see if his body would come along. 

I went into the house, and being tired sat down and 
read until supper time. Afterward starting out on a long 
stroll, passing by a museum and gallery, I went in and 
spent some time going through these places. Then I con- 
tinued my walk, not going back to lodging until 10. 

As Bristol is very hilly, in fact the hilliest town in Eng- 
land, I climbed and climbed, and had several fine views 
from vantage points. One of the finest buildings I passed 
was the Royal Infirmary and the- Bristol University. 

AUGUST 8. On getting up went out and bought some 
bread and sausages and cooked my own breakfast for a 
change. Afterward strolled along until I came to the Y. 
M. C. A., where I was shown through the building and had 
a long conversation with the secretary. I showed him some 
of my cards and curios, afterwards another long walk until 
dinner and after dinner strolled through the market and 
several small parks. Then after noticing an excursion bill, 
I suddenly came to the conclusion I would take a flying 
trip the next day to Cardiff. As I expected to visit some 
friends and had promised to write from Wales, I went to 
the Y. M. C. A. and spent the remaining time until 5 



BRISTOL 67 

writing. At this time, started to walk to the home of Mr. 
Skinner, one of the gentlemen whom I had met on the boat 
coming over from New York. This was more of a walk 
than I had bargained for, taking me an hour. It was a 
continual climb, very near the outskirts of the city, but 
the splendid view from this point amply repaid me for 
the long walk. On presenting myself at the residence of 
my boat friend I received a cordial welcome and spent an 
enjoyable evening. Did not get back to my lodging until 
10 :30. 

AUGUST 9. "Wrote for an hour or so, then had quite 
a long walk before I reached the point where cars started 
for the dock, where I expected to take a boat for Cardiff. 
As it was only 9 :15 and the boat did not leave until 10 :30 
I started out to do some sightseeing, and I could certainly 
do something of this kind as the car stopped immediately 
under a suspension bridge, 250 feet from the water of the 
river. There were steps to a winding path up to this 
bridge, up. which I toiled. A short distance from the 
bridge was still a higher spot, surmounted by an observa- 
tory and I climbed to the top of this and had a wonderful 
view. It resembled some of the views in Norway. After 
coming down I hung around for awhile and then found out 
I had made a mistake in regard to the sailing of the boat, 
the excursion being the next week instead of this. After 
writing for a short time in my diary I started back for the 
city, but just then I got into conversation with a gentle- 
man, and spent more than an hour talking about America. 

After this I had some dinner and walked to the Y. M. 
C. A. where I read until 3, when I went to Cook's office 
and looked over bills and studied out different tours for 
some time ; then took a stroll, winding up at the Holy Trin- 
ity Church, being just in time for the afternoon service, 
which I attended, then went through the church, afterward 
going to the Library, where I studied until supper time. 
After supper took a long walk through the "slum district,'' 
winding up at a Branch Library, where I stayed until bed- 
time. 



68 CARDIFF 

AUGUST 10. Went to the Y. M. C. A., where I spent 
the time reading and writing until noon, then after dinner 
took a long walk, stopped at the station and envied the 
crowds that were going away on a holiday, then another 
long stroll out to the Cardiff boat dock. On the way 
stopped for a few minutes to watch a couple of "steeple 
jacks" at work at the top of a great chimney. It just 
occurred to me to make a note of the peculiar ways the 
barbers do in this country. In all shops, they have just 
common, ordinary chairs with a head-rest. "When a cus- 
tomer takes a seat a boy lathers him and gets him in shape 
for the barber, who does nothing but shave. This is some- 
thing like a "lightning" performance. In some places the 
boy comes back to this customer and wipes him off with a 
sponge, dries him, and so on, but in the cheapest places, 
after the barber is through shaving, the customer gets up 
from the chair and goes to a hydrant, where he washes his 
own face and dries it with a towel. 

I got down to the boat at 4:30 and sat around and 
watched the crowd until 5 :30 when the boat pulled out. 
Just as we got started the rain came down hard, and I went 
right below where it was comfortable, and did not bother 
about the scenery, especially as I expected to come back the 
same way. The boat landed at 7 :30 and it took me some 
time to locate a lodging house. After getting something to 
eat, I strolled around until 9 :30. In contrast to Bristol 
this city is fairly flat and the streets are wide and straight. 
Although it is only about half the size of Bristol, it seemed 
more like a city. The crowds in the main part of the city 
are enormous. One of the specialties of most of these Eng- 
lish cities is an Arcade, running through from one street 
to another. I went through a couple of these. There were 
a great many, among them being one which was something 
out of the ordinary, there being a balcony running around 
the whole place. At 10 o'clock I turned in. 

AUGUST 11. After breakfast, I wrote and read for 
some time, then took a stroll until 11. Was more taken 
up with this city than any place in England, no hills to 
climb and most of the streets run fairly straight. I passed 



LLANDAFF 69 

a number of fine public buildings, parks, churches and also 
went to an old castle, which is not open to the public. The 
castle is a great square with a grand tower at one corner. 
Within a niche, part way up, were a number of ancient 
statues, also a great clock a little higher up. At 11 I at- 
tended Wesleyan Church and heard a very good sermon. 
On the way to church, I passed a "Welsh Church and copied 
down an inscription on the board that was on the church. 
After another short walk went to dinner, afterwards sat 
awhile reading and writing, then another walk, winding up 
at the Y. M. C. A. I went into a meeting next door of the 
P. S. A. — Pleasant Sunday Afternoon. This was a kind of 
family affair, and was a very pleasant meeting. After this 
I took another long stroll, passing several fine churches and 
a splendid new Hospital. Continuing on, I passed a great 
number of fine detached residences. Coming back a differ- 
ent way I finally wound up at my lodgings, and after rest- 
ing awhile got my supper and went once more to church 
at 6 :30. This was the largest and finest Methodist Church 
in the city. I heard a very good sermon and there was a 
splendid song service. After I came back to my lodging I 
stood in front of the Welsh Church for some time noticing 
the people and catching a word of Welsh once in awhile. 
I then took a good night stroll and went to bed at 9. 

AUGUST 12. After breakfast I walked three miles to a 
small and ancient place called Llandaff, passed a splendid 
succession of houses and then crossed fields and by a small 
flour mill where I stopped for a few minutes, and then on 
to the Cathedral, one of the oldest in Wales. I spent some 
little time going through this, seeing the old memorial 
plates, etc., then up by the ruins of an old castle, through 
the town and finally into a small shop. Here I got into 
conversation with the proprietor and continued talking for 
more than an hour, then back to the city by a different 
road. I came to a park on the Taff river, wandered around 
a little while, and then on to a great pile of buildings — 
the City Hall, Court House and University. These are on 
the outskirts of the city in a two hundred-acre park, and 
would do credit to a city ten times the size of this — noble 



70 BATH 

edifices of white stone. I went through the City Hall, 
which is almost like a palace, there being a great number 
of statues and pictures scattered about. Afterwards I 
finished the morning's work by doing the Museum and Art 
Gallery, then to dinner. 

Just before I reached my lodgings a man hailed me and 
said "You are an American, are you not?" and on my 
answering in the affirmative, we conversed for several min- 
utes. He had knocked around all over the "Western States, 
and shipped from Portland, Oregon, to London around the 
Horn, then had lived ten years in Cardiff, most of the time 
running a sailors' boarding house. It was just 12 :30 when 
I finally had dinner. 

Afterwards did some writing and then strolled down to 
the docks. Just before starting someone asked me a ques- 
tion. I got started and harangued a small crowd for 
nearly an hour in regard to conditions in America, then 
had to hustle in order to catch the boat for Bristol. Shortly 
after the boat started, I got into conversation with a drum- 
mer which continued during the two and a half hours it 
took to get to Bristol. Contrary to the usual procedure 
the other gentleman did most of the talking and I appeared 
so very congenial to him that before we landed he had 
given me his address. 

Just after leaving the boat I ran across one of the men 
I had been talking to in Cardiff, and we went uptown 
together, and I went on with him to the lodging house 
where he stayed. We had supper and then took a long 
walk together, not getting back until 10, when I went to 
bed. 

AUGUST 13. After breakfast I went to my former 
lodging house, got my suit case, and then had a long walk 
to the station, where I boarded a motor train for Bath, 
twelve miles farther on. On my arrival I rambled over 
the town until 12 :30. The only places of interest I visited 
were the baths that give the place its name, and are men- 
tioned by Dickens and a great many other writers. The 
Great Beau Brummel added prestige to the place by going 
there often. I also went through the great Abbey which 
was close to the baths. 



OXFORD 71 

At 1 I started for Swindom, where I only spent an hour. 
It is a place of 50,000 and a great railway center. At 
2:30 I boarded a train for the great and noted town of 
Oxford — the seat of learning — where I arrived at 4 :30. In 
regard to the country passed, there was every kind from 
as flat, as between Windsor and Chatham, to the very hilly, 
like north of Toronto. In some places the farms appeared 
very small and others quite large. I saw a few fields that 
must have contained fifty acres. Both haying and har- 
vesting operations were being carried on. Grain was being 
cut with hooks, scythes and up-to-date binders. Their hay- 
ing operations, generally speaking, are out of date, but I 
saw one hay loader and a few other labor-saving con- 
trivances like the straw carriers on our old-time threshing 
machines for elevating the hay on top of stacks. There are 
no large barns in this country as in the Eastern states. 
Most of the hay is stacked outside and covered with a 
thatch. It would be impossible for rain to penetrate this. 
I noticed a number of thatched houses, these being the 
first seen in England. I hunted up a lodging house, got 
something to eat, and then started out to see something of 
the town. After a short walk I came unexpectedly on the 
University buildings and was as much disappointed as 
when I first saw the palace in Copenhagen. 

In America our universities are generally housed in 
noble buildings, but this is not the case as regards the 
University of Oxford. There are a number of buildings 
built in the shape of a hollow square. I went within the 
quadrangle where the library, lecture rooms, dining hall 
and portrait gallery are situated. At the main gate is a 
tower, within it is a great clock and bell. On another 
corner is quite a dome which is before the portrait gallery. 
The entire building is only two stories. Just behind is 
Christ Church, a very old structure. 

From one corner is an entrance to another quadrangle. 
Here are a number of living houses. Imagine the stone 
buildings upon which a cloud of smoke had been pouring 
since the year 1, then go all over these with a hammer 
and chip off pieces right and left, and you have a vague 
idea of the appearance of these buildings. The university 



72 OXFOED 

proper didn't appear so aged. As everything was closed 
for the night I took a long walk along the Thames and 
right on out into the country for a couple of miles. 

There is a fine pathway right alongside the stream. The 
river resembles a canal, there being no banks, and on either 
side is a wide tract of flat land. On one side for more 
than a mile there is a continuous line of barges or boat 
houses. On getting out a little beyond the city limits I 
thought I had gone far enough and so retraced my steps 
to my lodgings. 

AUGUST 14. Went out and bought ingredients and 
cooked my own breakfast. I then started out for a long 
walk, came to a beautiful boulevard — Woodstock Road — 
very wide and paved with asphalt. This must be a beau- 
tiful walk in hot weather as there are shade trees all along 
reaching out entirely over the sidewalk. I went quite a 
distance on these streets, then turned, came back in a dif- 
ferent direction, finally bringing up at another part of the 
university buildings not seen last night. 

These were living houses for the students. I then went 
on to Christ Church, went in and wandered around, then 
on to the china hall and portrait gallery. In this gallery 
are seventy-two pictures of noted historical persons who 
attended this college. After this took another long walk 
and then went to my lodgings and from there to the 
station, where I caught a train at 1 for London. 

Reached there shortly after 2, making the sixty-three 
miles in a little over an hour. I had no idea we were 
traveling so fast as I was getting a good view of the coun- 
try as we moved along. We only passed through one large 
town, named Reading. A man whom I had met in Bristol 
had given me the address of a lodging house in London 
and immediately on arrival I found out where it was and 
how to get there. 

It must have been a considerable distance from the 
station. Although I took an underground train we seemed 
to have traveled for hours. Then I had to change cars 
and wait for some time, but at last got to the place. This 
was one of the Rowton houses in Whitechapel. There are 



LONDON 73 

6 of these scattered about London. This place is al- 
most a duplicate of the one where I stopped in Birming- 
ham. 

After getting located I started out to find the postoffice, 
was told it wasn't far, and after I had walked for upwards 
of an hour I came upon the main financial 'corner of the 
city, where six or seven streets run into each other. At 
this point is the Bank of England and Royal Exchange and 
a number of other great banks are in the vicinity. 

I stood on this corner for a few moments watching the 
struggling crowds and then returned to my lodgings. 
Had supper, then wrote for awhile and then took a stroll 
along Whitechapel street, which is a fine broad thorough- 
fare, the sidewalks being wider than most of the European 
streets. I passed the General Hospital, which is the larg- 
est in England. Whitechapel is a great retail street, the 
stores being occupied for the greater part by Jews. Re- 
turning to my lodgings at 9 did some writing and watched 
the crowd for awhile, then went to bed. 

AUGUST 15. Started out and went as far as the 
Branch Library ; stayed a few moments and then on to the 
Royal Exchange. Within the great rotunda there are a 
number of statues and very fine paintings. As I was 
finishing the examination of these I encountered a gentle- 
man from South Africa, originally from California, and of 
course we had a long talk. It seems he applied for per- 
mission to visit the mint and was to get a card of admis- 
sion today. 

lie told me this card would admit two and asked me to 
join him tomorrow. This I promised to do, nothing pre- 
venting. I then went to the Canadian Bank of Commerce, 
transacted some business and then to the postoffice, where 
I received two letters, one from an aunt in Toronto, writ- 
ten the 7th of July, and one from a Detroit friend. After 
leaving the postoffice I continued along, passing the new 
Old Bailey and St. Paul's Cathedral, and finally coming 
to the great Spitfield Market, where I rubbered around a 
little. At 12 went into one of the John Pierce restaurants, 
which are scattered over the city, and had my dinner. 



74 LONDON 

Afterwards roamed through the great market building, 
which extends for several blocks, then into a little square, 
where I wrote and watched the passers-by for some little 
time, then to St. Paul's Cathedral. " Tremendous' ' is the 
only word a person can use in connection with this build- 
ing. It is tremendously long, wide and high. I could 
hardly see to the top of the dome inside. It is a duplicate of 
most great English churches, only larger. There are 
chapels in different corners where the simple services are 
held. All the way around the walls are covered with 
statues and tablets in memory of someone. As there was 
no service when I was there I didn't hear the great organ. 
After this I went to Holburn street and after walking a 
few blocks came to the office of W. J. Burroughes & Sons, 
the head being a brother of my uncle in Toronto. I went 
in and had a short chat with one of the boys, then after 
promising to return I started once more, this time heading 
for the British Museum, but before getting there turned 
off again to see the Law Courts, then went down to the 
Strand and afterwards came upon the river. "Went out 
far enough on the Waterloo bridge to get a fine view up 
and down the river. 

There was a great pile of buildings near by and on in- 
quiry I found out that they were the houses of Parliament. 
I then went over and took a look at the outside, Saturday 
being the only day when visitors are allowed to inspect the 
interior. I walked around the part that is not on the 
river bank. The buildings must be all of 500 by 1000 feet, 
probably fifty feet high with an enormous tower at either 
end. 

The building looks more like a church, the outside wall 
being decorated with a kind of fret work. Eight cross 
the way is Westminster Abbey. I was greatly disappointed 
in this building, having had the impression that it was 
larger and grander than St. Paul's, but it is not, neither 
has it a dome. However, it is a grander place historically, 
there being more noted people buried there ; among others 
there are statues of Disraeli and Gladstone. 

As I was tired I did not examine as carefully as I other- 
wise would have done, especially as I expected to be able 



LONDON 



i j 



to return later. I forgot to mention the fact that there are 
two great statues in front of the Parliament Houses, one 
of Cromwell and the other of Kichard Coeur de Lion. On 
going out of the church I boarded a motor bus and rode on 
top to the bank. Walked to my lodgings from there, had 
supper and rubbered till 7, then went up to the reading 
room and read till bedtime. 

AUGUST 16. "Went to the Koyal Exchange where I 
met my California-South African friend, but did not go to 
the mint as he had been disappointed about the permit. 
Postponed the trip till Monday, when we have planned to 
put in the day. Also visit the Tower of London which 
is close by. After conversing awhile my friend put me on 
a bus and gave directions for the conductor to put me off 
at Victoria and Albert Museum. This was a long ride, it 
taking nearly an hour to make the trip. As this was a 
new part of the city to me I enjoyed every foot of the ride. 

On alighting the first place visited was St. Philip's 
Cathedral, which was immediately beside where I left the 
bus. I use the word "tremendous" in reference to St. 
Paul's. Beautiful is the word in connection with St. 
Philip 's, . which is a cathedral church. I have seen gor- 
geous, grand and glorious churches, but this is the most 
beautiful I have yet discovered. It is probably half as 
large as St. Paul's and has a dome in the center. 

There is a great altar, of course, at the front, then at the 
sides are altars to Mary Magdalene, Joseph, Paul, Philip 
and Peter. There are two chapels at the front corners. 
Unlike most of the cathedral churches of the old land, there 
are seats all the way down the center, and another odd fact 
it is thoroughly lighted up, not appearing like a vault. 
But when I come to the description of its beauty I need an 
artist's pencil. Instead of the whole interior looking like 
it had been used as a smokehouse, it has the appearance 
of just being finished yesterday. There are a great num- 
ber of fine paintings and statues and the hall pillars are 
different colored marble. 

This is the first one of the great churches I visited that I 
would care to attend. I stayed so long admiring that it 



76 LONDON 

was 12 :30 before I came out. After having dinner I went 
to the Natural History Museum, a branch of the British 
Museum. You can imagine what the British Museum is if 
this is only a branch. I stayed there from 1 till it closed 
at 6, and then I hadn't finished. 

I can spend several days in this neighborhood, as next 
door is the great Victoria Albert Museum, a very large 
building; then within a few blocks are the Imperial Insti- 
tute, Scientific and Kensington Palace and the great Hyde 
Park, Kensington Gardens, In the Natural History 
Museum I first visited the geological section. Here were 
displayed extinct specimens of all kinds of animals from 
single bones up to the entire skeleton. There were stones 
of all kinds, petrified specimens by the hundred, and a 
wonderful collection of shells (39,000). One man had spent 
thirty-eight years getting together this collection. There 
were also about a hundred cases of birds. They were posed 
in their natural state, some on nests, others with young, 
still others building nests, etc. 

After this I went down to the whale room. The skele- 
tons of four great whales as well as a number of smaller 
ones, were mounted and enclosed. On one side was a cast 
of the living whale, almost a living likeness, then to another 
room containing fish of every known species, next the rep- 
tile room. Here the specimens were so lifelike that I had 
a creepy feeling while examining them. 

In another room were a great number of specimens of 
sponges, coral and sea growths of every kind. At the en- 
trance of the reptile room was a section from the Mark 
Twain tree — one of the great sequoia trees of California. 
This was fifty feet in circumference, the lower half being 
beautifully polished, and there must have been twenty dif- 
ferent dates running back to 557, commemorating differ- 
ent events in history, recorded on this. Inside in the center 
of the room was a plaster cast of a great reptilian animal, 
the extinct , dinosaurian, found in Missouri. The original 
is in the Pittsburgh Museum. This is eighty-four feet 
from nose tip to tail tip. I used the short time I had left 
before closing and examined the main hall. A number of 
flowers, fruits, stones, etc., referred to in the Bible are at 



LONDON 77 

this place. As I was more than five miles from home and 
had already seen the streets, I went back by the "tube" 
for supper. Spent the time till bed, reading. 

AUGUST 17. Went to Aldgate Station and took a bus 
from there to Trafalgar Square, where the National Gal- 
lery is situated and inspected the pictures until 12:30. 
After dinner went down to the Houses of Parliament about 
a mile away and went through with the crowd. Unlike 
our Capitol, which is open to visitors at all hours and 
without supervision, Saturday is the only time when an 
ordinary person can obtain admittance and you are herded 
like a lot of sheep. 

Policemen all along the way continually called out to 
keep to the right. It was very fine and beautiful. A 
number of paintings and statues were strung along the 
walls. The Chamber of the House of Lords seemed all 
right, though not as gorgeous as I expected, but I was 
astonished at the smallness of the room occupied by the 
House of Commons. It would not be large enough for the 
Committee Room in "Washington. They can say what 
they please in regard to their grand buildings, but none I 
have come upon yet can compare with our Capitol in 
Washington. 

It is, of course, for the associations that most people visit 
these places. After finishing up there I came along by 
the War and Navy Building, went through a great gate 
back into the same grounds and from there into the his- 
toric Mall, a fine asphalt paved street. Just where I en- 
tered is a great statue of the Duke of York. The street 
is a mile in length. On one side is St. James Park and 
on the other grand dwellings of the wealthy. At the end 
is Buckingham Palace, in front of. which is a beautiful 
marble statue of Queen Victoria. This was recently fin- 
ished and is probably fifty feet high, and has a statue of 
the Queen. On one side she is sitting down, on the other she 
is represented as a young girl. On top are two figures 
in bronze. 

If it wasn't for the grand grounds, splendid fences and 
gates and the soldiers tramping up and down a person 



78 LONDON 

would pass right by the palace without noticing it. The 
building is about a hundred feet front by twenty-five feet 
deep, three stories high and built of stone, which has that 
old smoked appearance. Nothing whatever striking about 
it in any way. One would readily take it for an old bar- 
racks of some kind. I stayed there for a little while watch- 
ing the flumdummery of changing sentries. As I am an 
American probably I should not say anything in regard to 
this business, but I think just the same as far as Americans 
are concerned, maybe I am a fanatic and I do not expect 
to live to see it, but I am sure there will come a time when 
they will look back on the present age and wonder how 
so-called enlightened nations could have been so barbar- 
ous as to train men and boys in the art of slaughtering 
each other and consume great sums of money in so-called 
preparedness for war. 

How absurd, foolish and devilish it all is. Take the sen- 
tries in front of the palace loaded down with a heavy rifle, 
uniform and accoutrements, wearing the gigantic bearskin 
caps, and aimlessly marching up and down — what a monot- 
onous, soul-killing occupation. If this was the clownish 
performance of some circus there would be an excuse, but 
it was not. I wanted to laugh, but being an American it 
wouldn't have done, but I noticed a number of Britishers 
themselves laughing at the performance. After this I 
went back to the National Gallery and spent the balance 
of the time till 6 admiring the grand paintings. These 
were by artists from most of the European countries, all 
the great masters — Turner, Reynolds, Lanseer, Michael 
Angelo, etc. 

I forgot to mention that Trafalgar Square is a great 
open place and in the center is a noble monument of Nel- 
son, commemorating the battle of Trafalgar. 

At 6 I climbed on top of a bus and went home. One 
gets a splendid view of the street traffic from the top of 
one of these buses. 

This being the one and only night when a person could 
pay a week's room rent in advance where I was stopping, 
I took advantage of it, getting a slight reduction in con- 
sequence. I also got a key to one of the lockers and placed 



LONDON 79 

some of the load I was carrying around with me therein. 
After this I read for a while and then went to the Library 
to hunt np information. Didn't get to bed till 10. 

AUGUST 18. After breakfast sat in the dining room 
for some time and observed the crowd going and coming, 
then after a long walk, brought up at the Congregational 
Church and attended the service. The church was adver- 
tised to hold one thousand, and at the end of the service I 
counted, including the choir, just thirty-one. The service 
and sermon were indifferent. All the churches I have vis- 
ited in this country have poor morning attendances. 

After dinner I sat around till 2 and then took a short 
walk. The people of this neighborhood are mostly Jews. 
On Sunday most of the shops are open for business. After 
a short walk I went into the Library and read till supper 
time. After supper I started on a long walk down Com- 
mercial Road to the Bast End Wesley Mission and Stepney 
Hall. This street is one of the pretty ones of the East 
End. Is quite wide and both trams and buses traverse it. 

On reaching the hall I found the band playing outside 
and listened till they were through, when we all went into 
the hall, which was a fine large auditorium with a gallery 
running all the way around. There was a fine cornet and 
string band, which played till the service began. It was 
a fairly good crowd and we had a good sermon. Just as 
we were singing the last hymn a little excitement was 
caused by a lady in the gallery fainting, and having to be 
carried out. In going out I strolled slowly to my lodging, 
where I read for awhile and then to bed. 

AUGUST 19. Went to the Library where I stayed for 
a while, then strolled slowly down to the Royal Exchange 
and waited around till 11, examining the fine paintings 
while waiting for my California friend. Finally at 11, 
concluding that something had prevented his coming, I 
went on to the postoffice, found no mail, and had about 
come to the conclusion that I had been forgotten by all 
friends. 

After this I visited St. Bartholomew's Church, built 



80 LONDON 

A. D. 1123, the oldest in London. Its appearance inside 
certainly bears this out — it seems to be crumbling away. 

After dinner I went through the market and then 
brought up at the Guild Hall. This is an old building 
where the guilds or trades used to meet. It contains a 
museum and library. The first was closed, but there was 
quite a number of paintings and statues in the entrance 
hall and corridor. 

My eyes have been bothering me more or less ever since 
I traveled from Birmingham to Bristol. I must have 
strained them looking out of the train window. Anyway 
they bothered me so that I had to give up sightseeing and 
go home. I spent a couple of hours on the way, taking a 
roundabout road and just strolled along. "When I reached 
the place I sat back in the dark corner till supper time, 
and after supper went immediately to bed. 

AUGUST 20. My eyes still bothering me I concluded 
that I had better stay inside. Sat around the rest of the 
morning watching the crowd. After dinner the same until 
about 3 when I started out for a long walk out "White- 
chapel and Mile End Road. On the way passed by a great 
Mission Hall where meetings were advertised for every 
night. 

After getting back sat around and observed the crowd 
until 5 :30 when I had supper, remaining at the table until 
7 :30. I then went to the mission I had noticed in the after- 
noon, and found the meetings were being conducted by a 
minister from Muncie, Ind. It seems that for a number 
of years this minister has come over here to conduct serv- 
ices at this place during the month of August. It being a 
wet night there was not much of a crowd, but the preacher 
gave an arousing address. When it was over I went home 
and to bed. 

AUGUST 21. After breakfast, partly concocted by 
myself, I went up to the writing room and wrote for awhile. 
My eyes still bothering me did no sightseeing, with the 
exception of a short stroll around until noon watching and 
listening to the crowd. 



LONDON 81 

I had quite an amusing time cooking my dinner as there 
are no lids, and the tops of the ranges are very heavy. If 
the fire happens to be down it takes quite a time to heat 
anything. I wanted to cook some bacon and potatoes, but 
in order to do so without taking all day, held the pan in 
front of the grate until I managed to do my cooking, and 
I also partly cooked my hands and face, but everything of 
this kind is part of my experience. 

I spent most of the afternoon until 5 watching some ex- 
pert checker games, and at that time started to prepare my 
supper. This getting my own meals helps to break the 
monotony. After I finished supper I sat in the dining 
room and watched the crowd of waiters until 7 :30, then I 
started for a stroll towards the Mission I had been at Tues- 
day night. It was strictly a temperance meeting and was 
addressed by a reformed gambler. After this I went home 
and to bed. 

AUGUST 23. After breakfast, as my eyes were still on 
the bum and it was raining heavily, I stayed in the house, 
observing the crowed for awhile then watched a few games 
of checkers until 12:30 and was just going down to start 
dinner operations when a young fellow who had been play- 
ing asked me if I cared for a game, and as I thought we 
were pretty well matched I sat in and played a couple of 
games. As I again started for the dining room my checker 
partner asked me what part of the States I was from, and 
that settled it. As I had not had a conversation of any 
length for ten days I forgot all about dinner. 

It appeared that this young fellow was a Texan who 
has been wandering for sixteen years, and at present has a 
pet in the shape of a partly healed broken leg. He was 
well educated and acquainted with most of the places I 
intend to visit. At last I broke away and cooked my din- 
ner and was about through when he came along, and plank- 
ing his paraphernalia alongside of mine, went about get- 
ting something in the eating line for himself. As he had 
to use crutches it came somewhat awkward for him, and 
when I finished I helped him out to the extent of gathering 
dishes and cleaning them for his use. The dinner being 



82 LONDON 

ready we sat down, and after eating talked until 5, then 
he having to go out I went upstairs. First started to read 
a little and finding it hard on my eyes I quit and wrote 
a little and then just sat back and watched the crowd. 

It did me a world of good having a talk with this fellow 
and especially today as it is just a year since I left "Wind- 
sor for the Northwest, and I was mighty lonesome thinking 
about it. 

After finishing my writing watched a couple of expert 
checker players until 7. Then went out and did some 
necessary marketing. After this had supper, afterward 
walking up and down in front of the building for awhile 
and then went to bed. 

AUGUST 24. After breakfast stayed in dining room 
and wrote and observed the crowd, not being in any hurry 
to go out as it was raining as usual. At 9 :30 took a tram 
for Congress Hall, where General Booth laid in state, a 
ride of three miles through a new part of the city. I ex- 
pected to find a great crowd lined up but instead of open- 
ing the hall at 10, as had been advertised, they had opened 
at 5 :30. This was especially for the benefit of the work- 
ingmen and on that account I found that none were 
waiting, but two lines of people were continually passing 
either side of the casket. The hall was beautifully dec- 
orated. Immediately over the coffin were hanging flags of 
all nations. A great number of wreaths had been pre- 
sented, the finest being from the German Emperor. I 
afterwards walked home, passing through parts of the town 
of Clapton, Hackney and Bethnall Green, stopped in at a 
Library for awhile and gathered information. Did not 
get back to my lodgings until 1. I then concocted a fancy 
dinner and after eating same had a long chat with my 
American friend. At 5 I took a stroll around for awhile 
and after getting supper went upstairs and wrote a num- 
ber of cards and then for a long stroll on "Whitechapel 
and Cambridge Roads. On Saturday night there were 
all kinds of fakers scattered along these streets and it was 
amusing to me to watch their antics. After returning I 
took another short walk with my crippled friend and then 



LONDON 83 

we talked and played checkers until 11 o'clock and then 
turned in. 

AUGUST 25. "Wrote for a while, and then went by 
tram to Wesley's Chapel, in City Road. This is a church 
that Wesley built and was pastor of for many years. It is 
not large and is laid out in the Episcopal style. As Wes- 
ley never drifted from the English Church the service at 
this late day is still patterned after the style of that church. 
I got somewhat weary before the form of service was con- 
cluded, especially as I did not know where to find the dif- 
ferent parts in the book, but the sermon preached by the 
venerable old gentleman was splendid. When he gave out 
notices, he mentioned the fact that a visitors' book was in 
the vestry and all visitors were asked to sign their names. 
After the service I was the first to do this and after shak- 
ing hands with the minister went out to the rear of the 
church and gazed upon the last resting places of John and 
Susannah Wesley, George Whitfield and others. It was 
1 :30 before I reached home. After preparing a special 
Sunday dinner and resting up awhile I went upstairs and 
did some writing, afterward hunted up my friend and 
showed him some of my cards and souvenirs. Afterward 
we got our supper together and talked until 8, then stopped 
long enough for me to do some writing. After finishing, I 
went to bed. 

AUGUST 26. After breakfast I strolled down to the 
postoffice and got a paper from Detroit. I was glad to get 
the paper, but I was as far off as ever from knowing any- 
thing about whether my friends in Detroit had entirely for- 
gotten me or not. After writing and posting a card to 
Detroit, I came back to the Guild Hall and went through 
the museum. There are a great number of fine paintings, 
and some water colors of different Lord Mayors. There is 
also a fine collection of badges of different trades or guilds. 
After this I had lunch and then went up to the top of the 
monument, two hundred feet high. This would not be con- 
sidered high in New York, but is one of the highest points 
in this town. There was no elevator— only a spiral stair- 
case. 



84 LONDON 

I spent some time viewing the city, then after going 
down went through the Billingsgate Market, and stood on 
the wharf for some time watching the great cranes unload- 
ing the vessels. After this I went to the Tower of London, 
which is built in the shape of a great hollow square with a 
tower at each corner. The attractions are the Armories, 
the Beauchamp Tower and the Crown Jewels. In the 
Armories are hundreds of old sets and parts of armor, 
guns, swords, spears and every kind of equipment for 
ancient warfare. Among the many curiosities are four full 
sets of armor which belonged to Henry VIII and armor 
worn by Charles I, Charles II and James II. The jewel 
room is the main attraction of course. This is in one of 
the towers. A great case stands in the middle of the room. 
This is enclosed in glass, and outside of that are great bars 
of iron. It is just one dazzle of gold and precious stones. 
There are several great crowns besides innumerable other 
articles. Just outside of this tower in the yard is a stand 
which marks the spot where Anne Boleyn and Catharine 
Howard, wives of Henry VIIL, the "Blue Beard," along 
with Jane Grey, were executed. The Beauchamp tower is 
where all the great prisoners of state were kept, and the 
interior and walls are covered with carving done by some 
of these. 

The moat outside is now used as a drill ground and there 
was a company going through evolutions when I was there. 
I watched them for some time. Thinking I had seen enough 
for one day I went home to my lodging, and then prepared 
an extra good supper. After this I hunted up St. Claire, 
my Texas friend, and we played checkers and talked until 
bedtime. 

AUGUST 27. After breakfast I walked down to the 
tube station intending to go to the Victoria and Albert 
Museum, but as it was clear and bright, thought it a good 
time to go to the Shakespeare Exhibit. As this was not 
open until 11 I went in a Library near by and read for 
awhile. On going out, finding it had clouded over in the 
meantime, I followed my first intention and took the tube 
for South Kensington. On gaining the entrance to the 



LONDON 85 

museum, I found that for a second time I had mistaken the 
day. It was not open. So I then went a little farther on 
to the Science Museum. This is a great building which is 
packed full of models, or the article itself, of about every- 
thing made. There are old spinning-wheels and cotton 
working machinery. The printing press used by B. Frank- 
lin is there. The different processes that cotton goes 
through from the time it is picked until made into cloth 
is illustrated. Different types of sewing machines, type- 
writers, paper making machinery, different boilers and en- 
gines, two locomotives made in 1829, the first reaper, models 
of three reapers made by Cyrus McCormick, old bicycles 
of different periods and models of airships are found there. 
Then there was an old state barge used by the ancient 
Kings of England. 

I spent the time until 4:30 looking over this collection, 
then went into the Imperial Institute next door which, as 
its name indicates, contains exhibits from the different 
parts of the Empire. I had just finished the Canadian ex- 
hibit when the place closed. This exhibit consisted al- 
most entirely of minerals and stones in the ore and rough 
state, also manufactured state. It was a splendid attrac- 
tion. I then went via the tube to my lodging where I made 
it my first business to start in and prepare a good dinner 
as I had only had a lunch at noon. While I was eating 
St. Claire came and got his supper. I waited and kept 
him company, then did some writing, and then St. Claire 
and I talked until bedtime. 

AUGUST 28. After breakfast I took a long walk to the 
Bethnal Green Museum, passing through a pretty little 
park or garden as they are called. It being a bright pleas- 
ant morning I could not help noticing that most of the 
seats were occupied by sleeping men in every degree of 
destitution. On reaching the Museum I stayed until 12 :30. 

There were some fine exhibits, one lent by the King con- 
sisted of robes, dresses, etc., received from the Emperor of 
Abyssinia. Another was an exhibit lent by Lord Curzon 
consisting of presents of all kinds he had received while 
Viceroy of India. There was also a fine display of dishes, 



86 LONDON 

etc., from different countries. One case especially at- 
tracted my attention as being one of the most unique 
attractions I had noticed. It was a rope from Japan 700 
feet long and weighing 500 pounds, made entirely of 
women's hair. There was no statement of the number 
who had been shorn of their beauty. It must have been 
an enormous number. There were a few more exhibits and 
lastly a collection of paintings. 

After dinner I came back to the Museum and finished 
looking at the attractions, and then went to the tube station 
and took a train to New Cross in the southeast of London. 
At this place I hunted up the home of Mr. Shephard, whom 
I had met on the boat coming from Norway. After tea I 
showed some of my post cards and curios, and was shown 
a number of prizes and medals won by the gentleman for 
his flower displays. He then took me for a long walk to a 
high hill where a pretty fair view of the lights of London 
was obtained, then to his club. This is known as the Work- 
ingman's Club and is of liberal persuasion. It is different 
from anything of the kind we have in America. After 
finishing our walk, he went with me to the station where I 
took a train to London and I went to my lodgings where 
I immediately went to bed. 

AUGUST 29. Went out and did some marketing. On 
coming back met St. Claire and we prepared breakfast and 
ate together. After chatting awhile, I went down to the 
Aldgate station and took tube for South Kensington, and 
went to the Imperial Institute. There is a splendid 
exhibit from every part of the Imperial Dominions, from 
the smallest to the greatest, mostly natural resources, al- 
though, especially from India, there are a great number 
of caskets containing addresses to Queen Victoria, King 
Edward, King George and Queen Mary. The caskets 
being in glass cases, and the addresses framed and hung 
along the walls. An especially interesting exhibit, in the 
Australian section, is a case full of gilt duplicates of all 
the great gold nuggets found there. In the South African 
exhibit is a case containing paste representations of the 
great Kohinoor diamond in its rough state, and the nine 
stones it had been made into. 



LONDON 87 

On finishing here I went next door to a branch of the 
Victoria and Albert Museum containing a magnificent ex- 
hibit of Indian furniture, jewelry, old arms, armor, water 
color pictures of different buildings and scenes, and thous- 
ands of articles of jade, lacquer inlaid and other work, 
native costumes, etc. And besides this a grand display of 
caskets of all kinds made to contain addresses presented 
to Eoyalty. 

I then went into a place where there was an exhibition 
of all kinds of needlework, which was for sale. There is 
a school in connection where the art is taught. 

On the way to the station I went into a place where 
the prize-winners in some kind of an exhibition were on 
view. These consisted of hundreds of different kinds of 
designs for all kinds of purposes, carpets, wall paper, book 
covers, china ware, dresses, etc., etc. There were also a 
number of paintings, water colors, and statues. It was a 
splendid display, especially as all the contestants, both 
male and female, were under 20 years of age. 

As it was now 5 o'clock and I had been on the job since 
11 without stopping for lunch, I went home, where I forth- 
with prepared an extra good dinner-supper. After eating 
I hunted up St. Claire and we talked till 11, when I 
turned in. 

AUGUST 30. "Went out and did some marketing and 
then prepared breakfast". Just as I was starting in St. 
Claire came along and we had breakfast together. "We 
afterward stayed there talking until after 10 when I went 
to the tube station and took the train for Erlscourt, where 
the Shakespeare Exhibition was in progress. This exhibi- 
tion consists of a great number of buildings to represent 
those in vogue in the time of Shakespeare, and they are 
crowded with furniture and relics of that period. There 
are also exhibits from the different colonies, 

After visiting Canada, Australia, a number of small 
houses, I came upon a small place with an attendant, 
dressed in the old period, in charge. He had charge of 
a great book and a number of exhibition medals. The 
price of these ran from 12 cents to $50, the money going 
toward the exhibition fund. 



88 LONDON 

I handed him a shilling, got a medal and was then al- 
lowed to transcribe my name in this great book. The 
attendant afterward turned the pages and showed me the 
signature of the King, Queen Mary, Queen Alexandria and 
several other royalties and great officials, so I had the honor 
of writing my name in the same book as the King. 

I afterward had a few minutes' conversation with this 
attendant, boosting America. Then went on, going through 
the unique building and taking in the different side shows, 
also watching the " Shoot the Chutes" for a while. Had 
some lunch and kept wandering around. Then ran into a 
place in charge of a lady belonging to an anti-suffrage 
league, who was getting signers to the petition. She 
stopped me and before I finally broke away we had quite 
a discussion with an interested audience. 

At 2 :30 I bought a ticket for a big circus and stood in 
line until the doors opened at 3. Obtained a very good 
seat and observed the crowd and listened to music until 
3 :30 when the program began, which consisted of a fine 
acrobatic exhibition by a family of seven men. Then 
three women gave a wonderful trapeze performance, then 
a lady with eight trained horses came along and there were 
a couple of clowns and donkeys and twelve Japanese acro- 
bats and cortortionists. After this a performance by two 
splendid bareback riders. I do not think I ever saw their 
equal. Then another bunch of trained horses, and as a 
finale two motor cars "shooting the chutes' 7 and while in 
mid-air the hind one passed the first. Take it all in all I 
have never seen better performances. 

It then being 5 :30 and concluding that I had seen 
enough, I went home and started to get supper. "While 
doing so St. Claire came along and we had our meal to- 
gether, and talked until bedtime. 

AUGUST 31. After breakfast started for the Latin 
British Exhibition. On locating the grounds and entering 
I was struck at once by the resemblance of the buildings 
and grounds to the World's Fair at Chicago, only these 
buildings were not so large. Of course the whole show is 
on a smaller scale. 



LONDON 89 

I first visited the French building, where there was a 
splendid display of all kinds of manufactured goods, the 
finest of all being the great number of lifelike wax images, 
dressed by Worth and other great Paris dressmakers. Also 
a model of the caves wherein are situated the wine cellars 
of some of the noted champagne makers. 

I signed the visitors' book, bought a penny packet of 
chocolate at one of the booths, then went on by a beautiful 
water display and crossed a lagoon to the art building. At 
this place is displayed a splendid collection of modern 
paintings of the French, British, Spanish and Italian 
schools. Those in the Italian section were mostly of a 
religious nature, and in the Spanish section was a very 
large painting of Columbus. It was after 1 before I 
finished here, so had some lunch before going further. 
Afterward strolled along looking at the buildings and then 
stopped for awhile and enjoyed a band concert. After 
this took a walk through the grounds and caves of the 
mountain railway. 

These are representations of mountains, around and up 
and down, and then through tunnels the railway runs. 
I sat and watched this performance for awhile and then 
went through on what is called a " gliding railway." It 
is round a roadway about thirty feet wide covered with 
boiler plates which keep up an undulating motion and 
move in and out. The modus operandi is a small car hold- 
ing two, within which is the steering wheel. It is interest- 
ing to watch the occupants trying to guide their car 
straight. 

From this I went into a place where there is a picture 
show of the different stages of the making of the London 
Mail, from the paper making to the finished paper itself. 
This is quite interesting. 

I then wandered around a rustic garden, then passed by 
a few more attractions, one of which drew my attention 
for a few minutes. It was called a " flip-flap. " There 
were two great steel horizontal structures opposite each 
other. At one end of both were round compartments 
capable of holding twenty-five. When the machine was set 
in motion each arm raised slowly to its full length, passed 



90 LONDON 

each other and gradually came down, each changing places. 
Meanwhile the compartments kept in a level position. 
After this I listened to the band for awhile, then went 
through the great building containing exhibitions from 
several European countries. This whole exhibition was 
something entirely out of the ordinary as far as I am con- 
cerned, there being representations of all the great cities 
in the different countries. 

All the way through the building had an appearance of 
a cave or grotto, and in the "Welsh section was a coal mine 
and each country had a number of singers and artists who 
performed at stated times. 

After finishing this I went to the main lagoon where the 
artists of each country were going round and round in gon- 
dolas for the delectation of the public. 

After this was over I went through the Latin American 
section, a beautiful Jap garden and a building containing 
life-saving appliances. I then strolled around, observing 
the crowd and the attractions. As it was now dark the 
electric display was simply magnificent. I watched and 
listened to the band until I finally left at 9, getting home 
at 10 o'clock, when I retired. 

SEPTEMBER 1. After breakfast I walked to the 
Metropolitan Tabernacle, Spurgeon's old church. This 
was further than I thought — took more than an hour to 
walk, but was well repaid as I heard a grand sermon. It 
was so good, in fact, that instead of going back home I 
went to another place, the Rowton House, which was close 
by, for my dinner, and after this took a short walk, then 
back to the church where I attended Sunday school serv- 
ice ; then back to the Rowton House, had an early supper, 
when I went back to the Tabernacle, concluding that it 
would be crowded if I waited till 6:30. I was right, for 
before services started the place was packed. I heard an- 
other splendid sermon. Dr. Dixon, the minister, preached 
forty-five minutes, and I could have listened for a couple 
of hours longer. The main auditorium and gallery will 
hold upwards of two thousand people. 

As I had done considerable walking I took an auto bus 



LONDON 91 

to Aldgate and walked the few remaining blocks to my 
lodging. I didn't get home till 8 :30, and ran into St. 
Claire as I entered the door. As I had expected to return 
by 1 he had about concluded that something had happened 
to me. We located chairs and talked till 11 o'clock, when 
we turned in. 

SEPTEMBER 2. Prepared and ate breakfast, then 
started for the postoffice, stopping in at a couple of places 
on the way; received no mail, but wrote and sent away a 
number of post cards. After this found my way to the 
Blackfriars tube, rubbering all along the way. Took train 
for South Kensington and finally got to the Victoria and 
Albert Museum just at the stroke of 11. The first depart- 
ment contains a great number of old statues, and the sec- 
ond old furniture and a number of old rooms with panel- 
ing and furniture of the period of the 15th century. In 
the great hall the walls were covered with old doorways, 
altarpieces, chimneypieces, etc., and on the floor was a 
number of well heads, etc. On the fourth floor were archi- 
tectural drawings and models of historic buildings. The 
fifth compartment contained old gold and silver vessels and 
works of art beautifully engraved; the sixth, great old 
statues and monuments in plaster paris; seventh, plaster 
casts of great pulpits and church interiors, etc. ; eighth, 
on the wall old* tapestries and on the floor musical instru- 
ments of all kinds; ninth, a splendid display of Gobelin 
tapestry and French carpets; tenth, a collection of water 
colors ; eleven, engravings and etchings ; twelfth, the be- 
quest of John Jones especially being a collection of small 
portraits and beautiful and expensive old vases, furniture, 
etc. ; thirteenth, a small collection of paintings ; fourteenth, 
manuscript and relics of Charles Dickens ; sixteenth, an- 
other small collection of paintings and water colors ; seven- 
teenth, the Murray bequest containing one great painting 
of Leighton, and some old models, vases, etc. ; seventeenth 
a grand display of old lace ; eighteenth, embroideries of all 
kinds, carpets, clothing, etc. ; nineteenth, ceramics ; twen- 
tieth, Japanese pottery; twenty-first, fine collection of 
china and earthenware; twenty-second, collection of Chin- 



92 LONDON 

ese and Japanese carved stands, and all kinds of dishes, 
vases and carved ware. 

Finishing here I then went up to Kensington Garden, 
part of Hyde Park, and continued along till I came to the 
Albert Memorial, the most magnificent monument in Lon- 
don. The lowest base is about six feet from the ground, 
and one hundred feet square. About one dozen steps all 
the way around lead to the second base which is about 
sixty feet square. A few feet more to the third, which is 
about forty feet square. On this is built a solid base ten 
feet high and thirty feet square. This is covered with 
probably a hundred figures. On top sits a gigantic figure 
of the Prince Consort, and over all is a great canopy re- 
sembling a mosque. After viewing this I went on to Ken- 
sington Palace, where Queen Victoria was born and lived 
till she came to the throne. It is now a museum and con- 
tains a great number of relics of the Eoyal family, as well 
as a number of paintings of important events. 

I just got through the building when it closed at 6. 
There was about one dozen rooms used and what they were 
once used for is told in the sign over the door. The build- 
ing itself was just a common structure two stories high, 
but is surrounded by beautiful grounds. 

After this I went back to the tube station and it was 7 
o'clock before I got home. This was a strenuous day. I 
had to start in and get my dinner, only having had a lunch 
at noon. Just before I was ready to start in I hunted up 
St. Claire and he and I ate together and talked till 9 

'clock when I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 3. Arose at 8, prepared and ate break- 
fast, did some writing and left at 9 :30 for Madame Tus- 
sand ? s Wax Works, noted the world over. At the i ' tube ' ' 
station booked to the wrong place and had to walk a con- 
siderable distance. As this was a new part of the city to 
me I took my time and did not reach the place till 11. All 

1 have heard and read about this place did not exaggerate 
its attractions, there being nearly 400 figures and tableaux. 
The two most important at the present time are those of the 
late General Booth and his son, General Bramwell Booth. 



LONDON 93 

There are figures of all the English Kings and Queens and 
some of their consorts from "William the Conqueror down 
to King George, great numbers of public men and other 
European sovereigns. Then there is the Napoleon room, 
containing figures of all the Bonaparte family, and inter- 
esting relics of all kinds — the traveling coach of Napoleon 
captured at "Waterloo, the bed on which he died, etc. The 
most uncannily interesting was ' ' The Chamber of Horrors. ' ' 
This contained wax models of the heads of Louis XVI. and 
Marie Antoinette and a great number of others modeled by 
Madame Tussand by command of the National Assembly, 
immediately after their execution. There were figures of 
dozens of murderers and murdresses, a number of ropes 
used at executions, the "Old Bailey" dock and innumer- 
able articles. At intervals, while looking over the exhibit, 
I stopped and listened to the orchestra and watched a 
moving picture show, and also heard a grand gramaphone 
concert by Caruso, Melba, Patti, Harry Lauder and others. 
Finally at 7, after being there eight hours I went home 
and prepared a big feed, as I had eaten nothing since 
morning. St. Claire, who was just having his supper 
when I arrived, sat and talked to me while I was eating. 
Afterwards we went upstairs and played checkers till 11, 
when I turned in. 

SEPTEMBER 4. Had to go out to do some marketing, 
then prepared and ate breakfast and sat down to talk with 
St. Claire until 10, when I went to the tube station and 
boarded a train for Whitely's store, the largest and finest 
in the British Isles. This is owned by an American, and 
is run on the same plan as the department stores in that 
country. It is a very fine building and everything is 
gotten up regardless of price, but of course it does not 
compare in size with the great stores of New York. 
After wandering through I finally reached the roof, where 
there is a garden and as this with the exception of quite 
a breeze was the finest day we had had for some time, I 
enjoyed a few minutes of a sun bath. Only a few blocks 
away was Hyde Park and this I headed for. On reaching 
the park I found the first convenient seat and prepared 



94 LONDON 

to enjoy the fine day, observing the coming and going 
crowd, afterwards going on through until I came to Hyde 
Park proper. I then inquired for Rotten Row and found 
out that I was within a few feet of the noted old thorough- 
fare. This road was a mile in length, running through 
the park, and during the season is used by wealth and 
fashion as a promenade horse-back, it being about fifty 
feet wide with rows of fine old trees on either side, and 
the center roadway having a top dressing of several inches 
of fine gravel and sand. As every one, except seven or 
eight million that have to stay, left the city the first of 
August, I did not see this fashionable display turn out. 
I watched some girls playing basketball for a while and 
then continued on through the park to the Eastern gate. 
I must not forget that I had the first drink of cold water 
I had tasted since leaving Stockholm. This was obtained 
at an old well or pump. I then went down past Bucking- 
ham Palace and "Westminster Cathedral, the principal 
Roman Catholic church in England. This is a very large 
structure, but with the exception of a few marble pillars 
and arches the interior is common, every-day brick. There 
is one main auditorium with chapels on either side. The 
service started just as I entered, and the music of the 
organ and the singing of the choir were splendid. 

After leaving here I went on toward Trafalgar Square, 
entering and inspecting the army and navy stores on the 
way. ^ This place has a great high class trade and more 
especially with the families of army and navy officers. 
Everything is gotten up regardless of expense and all articles 
for sale are of the best material but have a fancy price 
attached. After a few minutes here I went on to the 
National Portrait Gallery, where are exhibited the pictures 
of the Royal families and principal men of the times from 
Richard I. down, each period having a different room. 
At the bottom of each portrait is a short history of the 
person. Americans will be glad to know that George 
Washington, Benjamin Franklin and John Wesley were 
among this number. On leaving I struck out for my lodg- 
ings, having a short walk to Charing Cross Station, where 
I took a "tube" for Aldgate, and after preparing and 



GREENWICH 95 

eating supper in the company of St. Claire, we talked 
until bedtime. 

SEPTEMBER 5. After breakfast it appearing to be 
a fine day, I decided to go to Greenwich and took a long 
walk down to and across the Tower bridge, then up along 
the banks to London bridge where I took an S. E. & C. 
train expecting to see something of the city. I found it 
was an underground train wilich ran along above the tops 
of the houses. I saw plenty of the city but none of the 
country as it was built right up to the Greenwich station. 

After a short w^alk, mostly up hill, I reached the ob- 
servatory, but could only view this from the outside, as 
a person was only permitted to enter after going through 
a lot of red tape. 

I waited until noon and then I set my watch by the 
great clock which is just outside the gate. Those who 
have not forgotten their geography lessons and still re- 
member something of latitude and longitude, would know 
that this is of longitude. There is a beautiful park and 
a couple hundred acres surrounding the building. After 
walking over this considerably I turned my steps toward 
the Naval College. No one is admitted to this, but I 
stood for some time watching a number of boys playing 
foot-ball. In the quadrangle is a full rigged ship with 
all the appurtenances for the use of the embryo officers. 
In succession I went through the museum, chapel and hall. 
In the museum there was quite a large exhibition of models 
and ships, also a collection of relics of Sir John Franklin's 
expedition, as well as a few paintings. 

The chapel, which is only for the students and teachers 
of the college, is quite small, but has a very beautiful 
interior. The painted hall is the main attraction, being 
a great hall about one hundred feet by fifty feet and fifty 
feet high. At the front is a raised dias and the walls are 
covered with paintings in some places three deep. These 
are portraits of officers, pictures of great battles and ships, 
more of Lord Nelson than any other. In a case there are 
a number of relics of the Great Nelson. The ceilings and 
front walls are beautifully decorated and the floor is made 



96 LONDON 

of squares of marble, lengths of matting being laid down 
to walk on. 

The museum is on the Thames and a grand view can be 
obtained from the second floor. After finishing here I 
took a long walk about the town, leaving for the city at 
5. On getting home I prepared and ate supper, then up 
came St. Claire and we played checkers and talked until 
bedtime. 

SEPTEMBER 6. With the exception of two short 
walks didn't leave the house all day. My feet were in 
such a poor condition that I concluded I had better stay 
in and rest up. 

After doing a little necessary cleaning and repairing 
of clothing I sorted out some cards I wanted to send to 
Detroit, then wrote some cards and a couple of letters, 
and then I went out and did a little marketing. St. Claire 
and I prepared and ate dinner together and talked until 
3 when again I went for the writing, this time making a 
start at a very long letter which I sent to the church class 
in Detroit, and didn't let up until 7, when St. Claire 
dragged me away and we went down and prepared and ate 
supper together and then played checkers until 10, when 
I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 7. The first thing this morning had to 
do some marketing and then St. Claire and I had breakfast. 
In order to put my feet on the bum once more went first 
to the Canadian Bank of Commerce where I drew an 
equivalent of $100, this having been sent over from a 
Bank in "Windsor. 

I then hunted up Tuck & Sons, the great post card 
manufacturers, after that headed for the British Museum. 
Was directed wrong a few times, but took my time, stopped 
and rested while I rubbered at the crowd. Got something 
to eat, and at last reached the noble building at 1 o'clock. 

This building was about what I expected to see. At the 
entrance were thirty-eight great pillars, two rows along 
the front and a row at each end, the two wings of this 
projecting out towards the street. The part I inspected was 



LONDON 97 

the manuscript room where are works of royalty and numer- 
ous other authors, also a great number of the historical 
documents like the Magna Charter, etc. There is also 
a collection of the great seals used by all the rulers of 
England from Edward the Confessor down, also a great 
number of the autographed letters of noted people. As 
these were old geniuses it was impossible to read their 
handwriting. Next was a number of the earliest known 
books, one written 411 A. D., being the earliest extant. 
There were a number of books representing the early 
stages of printing process, next a number of early maps 
and globes. In the main hall around a part of the wall and 
on the floor were a large number of slabs and pieces 
of stone containing characters carved before the Christian 
era. 

Upstairs w T ere very different kinds of old styles of furni- 
ture. One room contains nothing but old Grecian pottery, 
and on the outside of each article a scene of some kind 
was depicted. The Egyptian exhibit is the main attrac- 
tion. The hundreds of mummy cases, etc., attract great 
crowds. 

It is interesting for the person who knows his dates 
fairly well to go along and observe the times given with 
each exhibit and then let the mind travel back to the 
contemporary periods of the Hebrew, Jews. In an Assyrian 
exhibit was one collection that especially attracted my 
attention. This was more than a hundred letters on baked 
clay written by a king who lived more than two thousand 
years B. C. 

In a couple of rooms was a very good collection from 
South America of ancient articles. Then the Esquimaux 
were represented by a fine collection of furs and household 
goods. Next was a splendid collection of chinaware rang- 
ing back to the 17th century. After going this far I 
called off for the day and after a short walk boarded a 
tram which landed me within a few blocks of home. 

After loading up with provisions for tomorrow I went 
home and prepared and ate supper. St. Claire came along 
just as I finished. I stayed until he got through, then 
we went upstairs and played checkers and talked until 
bedtime. 



98 LONDON 

SEPTEMBER 8. Prepared and ate breakfast, St. Claire 
being a little ahead of me, and after getting ready started 
out on a long walk for church; passed Petticoat Lane, a 
notorious street, on the way. On coming opposite to St. 
Paul's Cathedral I thought it would be a shame to leave 
London without attending a service at one of the great 
churches, so went in for the morning service. The sing- 
ing and music were fine. On coming out I started for 
home, going the entire length of Petticoat Lane, passing 
Frying Pan Alley. The first named has been noted for 
years for its Sunday morning markets, the entire street 
for upwards of a mile being filled with carts containing 
all kinds of merchandise imaginable. On arriving home 
I prepared and ate dinner, St. Claire joining me, after 
which we talked until supper time, which meal we pre- 
pared and ate together. "We then continued our conversa- 
tion until bedtime. 

SEPTEMBER 9. Had to go out and do some market- 
ing first thing, then prepared and ate breakfast and after 
a short talk with St. Claire started out, taking a long 
walk, finally winding up at Hackney Station. From here 
I took a train to Chalk Farm, near the Zoo, got something 
to eat, and at 12 :30 gained an entrance and spent three 
hours going around seeing the different animals; then 
sat down for a while and w T atched three elephants going 
back and forth carrying passengers. At 4 went into the 
lion house to see the animals fed. This was a thrilling 
and awe inspiring sight. The animals had been restless 
and uneasy for some time. When the attendants brought 
in the meat and wheeled it along in front of the cages, 
the uproar was fearful. The place was packed and jammed 
with people and I could not help thinking what a catas- 
trophe would occur if one of the animals broke out. In 
the bottom of each cage was an opening about twelve 
inches high, with a bar across. This was raised and one 
attendant passed in a piece of meat. I was standing 
directly in front of the largest lion and it was dreadful 
to see it seize on its portion, which was a large leg bone. 
It did not take him long to get all the meat and then he 



LONDON 99 

kept turning the bone over in every direction to see if he 
could not find another crumb, then finally he broke it 
all to pieces and got the marrow out. After this I went 
around once more, seeing new attractions, and at 5 started 
for home, passing through Regent's Park on the way to 
my station. If it had only been warm it would have 
been delightful strolling around for awhile, but it was 
cold as usual. On getting home, prepared and ate supper, 
then went up and talked and played checkers with St. 
Claire until 8, when I helped him get supper and talked 
to him until bedtime. 

SEPTEMBER 10. Was lazy. Prepared and ate break- 
fast, had a chat with St. Claire and then walked slowly 
down across London Bridge, where I took an elevated 
train for Crystal Palace, one of the sights of London. 
Arrived there at 11. Started to take in the sights. The 
palace principally is, as its name indicates, a huge rec- 
tangular structure, built almost entirely of steel and glass. 
On my entrance a great organ was sending out fine music 
and I headed in the direction of the sound, which was in 
the great central hall. After a few minutes the music 
stopped and I started out to examine the building. Along 
the sides were representatives of different forms of ancient 
architecture in the shape of frescoes, doorways, arches, 
statues and monuments of every kind. These were all 
exact duplicates in plaster. I just went along one side of 
this, it being so cold that I was nearly frozen, when I saw 
a sign which read like this, "Down Stairs to the Monkey 
House." Down I went, thinking, at least, it would be 
warmer down there and I was right, for it was fairly com- 
fortable. After looking over most of the collection, which 
consisted of monkeys and parrots, I sat down and enjoyed 
the antics of a band of girls, apparently from some home. 
They were just having a heavenly time. I then had some 
lunch and went through the great building, admiring the 
statues, exhibitions, etc., also listening to a short organ 
recital, then out in the grounds, looking at the different 
sights, but there was very little doing, as it was so cold. 
Stopped in front of the Canadian Northern Exhibit and 
had a talk with the man in charge. 



100 LONDON 

I afterward listened to a band concert and when this 
had finished went out in the ground to make a last round 
before leaving, and stumbled on a Grand Canadian Exhibit, 
also stopped in to see the Grand Trunk and Canadian 
Pacific building. Got into conversation with some one in 
each place and did not get away until 6. Had to wait a 
short time in the station, not arriving home until 7. Pre- 
pared and had supper with St. Claire and then sat up and 
talked until 10, when we went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 11. Did some marketing after which pre- 
pared and had breakfast and then after a talk with St. 
Claire wrote until 12 :30 a long letter to Detroit. Part of 
this was in the line of a scolding for not having received 
any word from them. I afterward prepared dinner and St. 
Claire and I had this together. Then I went downtown, 
posting my letter on the way. Stopped at the Guild Hall 
and Library until 5, poring over a Continental Bradshaw, 
then took a walk a little further to the postoffice and thought 
I might as well stop in and tell them to forward any mail 
that came. I had given up all hopes of receiving letters 
and was agreeably surprised to find two waiting for me 
from Detroit. I was then sorry I posted my letter, al- 
though I had said nothing that could hurt any one. My, 
how good those letters seemed to me, especially coming 
just as they did, as I was about to leave London for a 
country whelre the English language wass not spoken. 
After reading my letters, which were fine and all I could 
ask, I went down Holborne intending to call on Bur- 
roughes', but missed the place some way or other. After 
proceeding as far as Oxford street I turned back and 
walked home, then prepared and ate my supper in com- 
pany with St. Claire. Wrote and posted a card to Detroit, 
afterwards talking and playing checkers with St. Claire 
until bedtime. 

SEPTEMBER 12. Had to take a long walk after some 
bread as the people across the street, whom I had been 
dealing with, were closed up, it being some kind of a 
Jewish holiday. After returning I prepared and ate my 



LONDON 101 

breakfast and then started to get lined up for my depar- 
ture. First cleaned coat and hat with ammonia, then 
got together all the post cards and souvenirs of all kinds 
I had accumulated and had St. Claire fix them up in a 
parcel, which I posted to Detroit, and at the same time 
went on a little further to Cook's office where I booked 
for Rotterdam. Coming back I wrote until 12, then 
went down and prepared the last meal I should probably 
fix up in a long time. As I was expecting St. Claire in 
any minute I got the utensils ready for him. 

He appearing, we had our last meal together. After- 
ward I went up and talked and played checkers with 
St. Claire until 4, when we started for the station. I had 
to stop in at Cook's and get some money changed and St. 
Claire had to walk slowly on account of his crutches, but 
we both got there the same time. 

We had a few minutes to wait, but we had not much to 
say, both having lumps in our throats, our mutual at- 
tachment being so strong. I know as far as I am con- 
cerned I never became so attached to any man in my 
whole life. 

Finally, after repeated requests on his part for me to 
write we had to part and I could see tears in his eyes, and 
I am not ashamed to say for the first time in many a day 
one or two leaked from mine. 

I was agreeably surprised by the train-ride. If I had 
given it a thought I probably expected to travel two or 
three miles instead of more than twenty. We passed 
through quite a bit of the country which as the weather 
was considerably warmer and the sun was shining looked 
very pretty. 

The train landed us at the dock and a tender conveyed 
us to the boat, the "Batavier," a Dutch ship of fair size. 
After locating my berth I went up on deck watching the 
scenery for about an hour, when the river getting so 
wide and darkness settling down, I went below. After 
eating supper, wrote and read until 9 o'clock. 

SEPTEMBER 13. Was called at 5— an unearthly hour. 
After dressing had some breakfast and then went up on 
deck and stayed until we landed at 6 :30. 



102, ROTTERDAM 

Rotterdam is a few miles up from the mouth of the 
Rhine. There was a great deal of shipping to see. That 
was all. On landing I hunted up the address given me 
by St. Claire, which proved to be the Salvation Army 
Hotel. 

When after sitting down for awhile and listening to a 
Dutch conversation, and writing a short time, I went up to 
see a little of the place. Traveled and kept going. 

This is another canal city and I crossed innumerable 
bridges. Finally noticed a tram-car with " Central sta- 
tion " marked on it, and I thought I would like to know 
where it was, so I would know about how far it was from 
my lodging, and I was tired before I got there. But saw 
some of the city and located a museum that I intended to 
hunt up. 

After sitting in the station awhile getting information 
I went back until I came to a museum, which I proceeded 
to explore. After leaving I hunted a restaurant and had 
some dinner, which cost me thirty cents (Dutch), ten 
cents in our money. 

I was mighty hungry, but had a full feeling strong 
before I finished. After this I took another long walk, 
bringing up at a fish market. Holland is noted for her 
eel industry, and I went into a stall where a man, woman 
and boy were operating on snake-like creatures and the 
buyer would pick out the live one and one or the other 
would skin and clean it. It looked like a cruel job, but 
I suppose these fish are devoid of feeling. 

After this I went to the back of the building where an 
auction was in progress. The auctioneer stood up with 
his back to the building. Right in front of him was a long 
table-like structure which held the fish, on the other side 
in the form of a semi-circle were a number of seats. These 
were filled with bare-headed and shawled fishwives, a few 
men standing behind. 

The contents of a bushel basket would be dumped on 
the table and then instead of the people bidding the auc- 
tioneer would start at a high figure and quickly come 
down until someone would call. This was repeated until 
everything was cleaned out. It was nearly over when I 
got there, but I enjoyed it while it lasted. 



EOTTERDAM 103 

Then another walk, passing the postoffice, went in to 
get stamps for a letter and card I expected to send from 
Holland. As the stamps issued run from one-half cent up 
I could put quite a collection on the letter. 

I kept on until I came to the river and as the sun was 
shining and it was warm I sat down and took in the 
sights. One of the things I have noticed is that most hand- 
carts have a dog fastened behind, that helps to pull. 

I then went on a few blocks further to the Mass where 
I rubbered around for awhile, then came out and stood on 
one of the steps of the station, letting the sun soak in a 
little and gazing upon the river with particular interest 
as it had just come to my mind that this was the historical 
Rhine, so much written about in prose and poetry. 

After this I strolled along the quay and watched the 
small boats unloading. There were no sheds — they un- 
loaded right on the quay. Then I crossed the river and 
went down for some distance, noticing the sign " Boats 
for Amsterdam. " I made inquiry and found they 
started every day at 8 p. m. If they had started in the 
morning I would have traveled that way instead of by 
train. 

St. Claire had told me of a fine trip from Rotterdam to 
Antwerp by boat through canals, and I located a dock and 
found out what time the boat left. When I come back 
from The Hague I expect to go by boat to Antwerp. 

I then went on a little further to a different part of 
the town and came to a small park where I rested my feet 
a little, then back, another walk, had supper. After this, 
being a long way from my lodgings, I started back, but 
just as I was turning into my street I espied what ap- 
peared to be a busy thoroughfare and turned along this. 
It turned out to be a main business street of the city. 

It was about a mile in length, and I traveled up one 
side and down the other, rubbering to get prices on every- 
thing, which I especially made it my business to do wher- 
ever I went. 

After getting to my lodgings I watched the people for 
awhile and then turned in at 9 :30. I forgot to speak of 
the wash-women I saw at work this morning. This was 



104 THE HAGUE 

on the canal boats, families living on them. This wash 
business was very primitive, a board and scrubbing brush 
being the main implements. 

SEPTEMBER 14. After breakfast read and wrote 
and listened to the conversation of those around me until 
10:30 and started out for a stroll; passed by what looked 
to be a church and as it was locked did not have an op- 
portunity to explore. "Went down to docks and watched 
the men loading and unloading boats. Noticed one thing 
especially, that was the slowness of the movements of 
everybody. The police of this town are great and wonder- 
ful beings, dressed in a long black frock coat and trousers, 
with a grand tin helmet on the head. After dinner I 
went to the electric station and boarded a train for The 
Hague, fifteen miles away. 

I can't say much for the beauty of the country passed. 
It was very flat; had either been lots of rain or an over- 
flow, as the land was mostly covered with water. 

There were small, medium and large ditches and canals. 
Wherever I looked I could see an old windmill (of the 
pictures) with two great arms. The entire country was 
given over to pasturage, most of the cows being blanketed, 
whether on account of the flies or rain I could not say. 

The Hague appeared altogether different from Rotter- 
dam, seemed more aristocratic, so to speak. I hunted up 
the Maruitshus Museum and stayed there until 4. There 
was a splendid collection of pictures mostly by Rembrandt, 
Van Dyke, Holbein and Rubens, After this I kept going 
until 8:30; passed by the principal legislative buildings, 
went down to the canal and noticed how a boat is pro- 
pelled when the sails are not used. 

A woman steers while the man takes a long pole, lets 
it to the bottom, goes to the front part of the boat and 
then slowly walks back to the stern, pushing on the pole as 
he comes along. 

I was fascinated by this primeval form of locomotion 
and watched it for quite a while. There was a small 
cabin at the stern where the family live. Just before this 
I spent more than an hour in the great bazaar, like some 



THE HAGUE 105 

of our department stores in America. All the time I 
heard sweet music discoursed by a phonograph. 

This was a beautiful place, modern and up-to-date. 
The young ladies were the best looking I have seen in any 
of these European stores. One of the cashiers looked 
enough like a Detroit young lady whom I know to be her 
twin sister. 

As I was looking for a restaurant where I could get 
some supper I ran into a great open-air market, and after 
getting some provisions at one of the stalls I wandered 
up and down for a couple of hours, and just as I was 
leaving a man came up and said, " Hello there," and of 
course I responded to his salutation, finding out he had 
spent many years in America. After a few minutes' con- 
versation he gave me his business card and asked me to 
hunt him up before I left the city. As I had not already 
done so, I thought it was time I hunted up a home for 
the night, and after considerable traveling located a place. 

The landlord being able to talk English we made out all 
right. It was now 8:30 and I sat down at a table and 
wrote until 9 :30 when I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 15. Breakfast consisted of bread, but- 
ter, kasse and coffee, with no sugar. I did a little writing 
and then started off to see a little of the town. Was look- 
ing for the Peace Palace, was directed wrong several times 
and finally arrived at the place directed to, which turned 
out to be the Palace in the "Woods, which was very pic- 
turesque, and was one of the palaces I wanted to see. In 
going through I passed by a fine stretch of residences and 
park land reaching out into the country. Before I finished 
I went through a couple of parks that were certainly of 
the natural order. 

If it had only been a warm day this would have been 
an extra fine stroll, as it was it was all right. I passed 
one church and wished it was Methodist. 

I didn't get back to my stopping place till 1 p. m., and 
spent a miserable hour waiting for dinner. Of all the 
quarrelsome people I ever saw these are the worst. One 
couple I thought would eat each other. Finally I got my 



106 SCHEVENINGEN 

dinner and then hustled out to the Cemeendes Museum 
where a fine selection of paintings and curios were. After 
finishing here I took a stoom tram to Scheveningen, about 
four miles away. This is an ancient resort and must be 
quite interesting in the summer, there being a board walk 
which extends for several miles to all kinds of residences 
and amusement places. On landing I went along the sand 
for upwards of a mile. On the way I picked up a pecul- 
iarly marked shell which I intend placing in a letter 
which I shall send to my Detroit friends. 

After this I walked down a narrow street which was 
fille-d with damsels dressed in native costume. This was 
a fine sight. The dress consisted of voluminous skirts, 
tight fitting waists and small shawl and peculiar head 
dress. A heavy band of silver held the hair. Then a light 
filmy embroidered close-fitting cap and a couple of bangles 
to hold the cap. Heavy earrings, brooch and chain com- 
plete the costume, which was, to say the least, very pictur- 
esque, although it made the girls look like their own 
grandmothers. 

For the second time on this trip I came in for a certain 
amount of attention and guying from the crowd, although 
for what particular reason I could not tell. 

On turning off this street I soon got back to the shore 
where the wind was blowing stronger than ever, almost 
carrying a person off his feet, and I noticed knots of 
people gathered around men with glasses, who were look- 
ing at a yacht which seemed in distress. It appeared 
every minute as though it would be engulfed. For some 
time a small tug was seen making its way toward the 
yacht, and after a hard struggle managed to make fast 
and started towing it in. At this point, having seen all I 
wanted to of the place, I went to the station and took a 
car back to The Hague, reaching my lodging at 7. 
^ After supper I sat around and listened to the conversa- 
tion till bedtime. 

This was the most unpleasant Sunday evening of my 
trip. They were having a drunken revel. As it was, my 
feet were completely worn out and I had my choice of 
the street or the revel. I could not help contrasting this 



AMSTERDAM 107 

with the Sunday nights I spent in Detroit. I would will- 
ingly give one-half cent Dutch money to be through with 
this journey. 

SEPTEMBER 16. Breakfasted and after a talk with 
the proprietor went to the station and boarded the train 
for Amsterdam. I happened to strike an express and went 
through the historical towns of Delft, Haarlam and Leyden 
without stopping. Got to my destination at 10, and after 
several inquiries at last located the Rijks, the great Na- 
tional Museum, and stayed right on the job till 2. The 
building is certainly a magnificent structure, comparing 
favorably with the Victoria and Albert in London, al- 
though not nearly so large. The ground floor and a kind 
of half basement were given over to antiquities, furniture, 
dishes, etc., and a splendid collection of cannon, guns 
and flags and all kinds of articles captured in battle, also 
a number of uniforms of different periods. The second 
floor contained some of the most priceless paintings in 
the world by Rubens, Rembrandt and others. I suppose 
I have had a surfeit of fine pictures and cannot appreciate 
them as I should, but even at that I could not help ad- 
miring a great number of these. There are a number of 
portraits of the House of Orange and Nassau, there be- 
ing several of Prince William III., afterwards king of 
England. The most priceless of all, "Rembrandt's "Watch 
Night," had a room all to itself, and even to my common, 
every-day eyes it seemed a wonderful painting. The 
people appeared to be about to step out of the frame. 

At last being tired and hungry I came out and after 
going considerable distance looking for a restaurant, 
bought some cakes and went into a small park and ate 
them. Sat awhile to watch the crowd and then went on 
again, coming to the open market, watched for awhile as 
an interested spectator a faker getting rid of knives, 
jewelry, etc., and not leaving till he shut up shop. 

Continuing on a little farther I ran into a tremendous 
edifice with a splendid dome. At this place they were 
having an international gas exhibition. The building was 
built in the form of a hollow square, and must have been 



108 AMSTERDAM 

two hundred feet square, and with the exception of a great 
restaurant and theater, entirely given over to small stores. 
This is a little different from anything I have ever seen 
as yet. After this I came upon a French bazaar and 
went through, buying some post cards. This was some- 
thing like our small department stores. 

It now being 5 o'clock I thought I had better locate a 
lodging, and as I walked along kept my eyes open for 
something of this kind, but was getting very tired and 
seeing nothing, when across the street I spied a bicycle 
shop, and on the window was the legend " English 
spoken." I went over and asked the proprietor to direct 
me to a lodging, and this he did by directing me to the 
Metropool. This was a Salvation Army hotel, which un- 
like the place in Rotterdam, was extra cheap. On going 
inside I found a room containing a hundred people, all 
sitting at tables. Finding a table near a window I sat 
down and did some writing, and then watched the crowd 
for awhile. A man sitting at the end of the same table 
who had been watching me for some time addressed me 
in Dutch, and on my saying "English" he struck up a 
conversation in that language. According to his tale he 
could speak eight languages and had traveled over most 
of the world. I cannot say anything in regard to the 
others, but I know he could speak English fluently. He 
knew quite a number of American cities and we had quite 
a friendly talk till he sprang a hard-luck story, when I 
cooled off at once. He didn't exactly ask me for money, 
but threw out some strong hints, but I am the densest 
person in the world when I do not want to understand, 
and I could not see the point. According to his story, 
while sick in a hospital in Cuba, he had been given mor- 
phine till, when he came out, he had acquired the habit 
and was here waiting to enter a hospital, but on account 
of red tape, etc., was compelled to wait longer than he 
expected, as the officials were slow. I had no way to prove 
the truth of his story, and even if I could was not able 
to hand out to everybody. After having something to eat 
I wrote till 9, when I turned in. 



ZANDAM 109 

SEPTEMBER 17. After breakfast wrote and talked 
to my linguistic friend and noticed the crowd till 10 when 
I wandered out and after walking a few blocks came out 
on the Zuyder Zee. I spent some time strolling along 
watching the sights and could not help thinking how little 
value time seemed to these people, when I saw a bridge 
turn and the traffic held up for at least twenty minutes 
while a boat was passing under. The boat, which was a 
great clumsy affair, was propelled by the aid of two long 
poles in the hands of the boatmen. 

They would go to the bow, stick the pole into the bottom 
and then walk to the stern, pushing all the time. The 
father acted as lookout while the mother handled the rud- 
der. After this I went into the station and rubbered 
awhile. After a time a couple of American young ladies 
sat down on the same seat and regaled me by their com- 
ments on the place, people, etc. After this another walk 
uptown, passing and going through another great bazaar 
and on my way back to lodgings was entertained by a 
brass band, hand organ, performance and the dancing 
by a man with two wooden legs. 

As I was eating dinner another man who could speak 
English came along and entered into conversation with 
me. He had been out to America, getting as far west as 
Ohio. He didn't tell any hard luck stories only that this 
Dutch land was a mighty poor place compared with Ameri- 
ca in which to make a living. He had been out of w T ork 
for some time and was starting in again as second cook 
in a hotel, hours from 7 a. m. to 9 p. m. at the grand 
salary of three dollars per week. 

He told me that he intended to save up and ship to 
America as soon as he could and if he ever got there would 
never leave it. At 1 I started for the boat landing to 
catch a boat for Zandam, making the 1 :30 boat. This 
place is on the main body of the Zuyder Zee, five miles 
up one of the arms from Amsterdam and the trip was 
delightful. Boats of all sizes were passed and met. 

I had a chance to see the condition of most of Holland 
as we were up above the surrounding land, the water 
being diked. On landing I started out walking and as 



110 HAARLEM 

this is a small, quiet, sleepy place saw most of the town. 
Like all the other towns and cities of Holland, it is cut up 
by canals of all sizes, I stopped at a couple of small 
locks and watched the modus operandus. I stopped at 
the last lock and did some writing while resting, watching 
and listening to a brass band and hand organ in the dis- 
tance. This band put me in mind of the German band in 
Detroit. This is one of the several places where the great 
Czar Peter of Russia was domiciled for a time while learn- 
ing shipbuilding, and the house where he lived is pointed 
out to tourists. I then walked back to the depot where 
after waiting a short time I went back to the city. 

This was a splendid trip going back, as the sun was 
shining and it was quite calm. It was 6 when I landed 
back at my lodgings and after eating supper I wrote 
steadily till 8, then after a short walk returned at 9. 

SEPTEMBER 18. After breakfast hunted up the elec- 
tric train running to Haarlem and boarded same for that 
town. Arrived there in about half an hour and spent a 
couple of hours wandering around this old place. The 
principal sight is the Grotto Kierke and it is very large, 
one of the finest in Holland, built in the shape of a Greek 
cross and all the space between the crosses is filled in 
with small shops and markets, which makes a great com- 
bination. 

New York is sometimes called for this place and as a 
boy I remember the story in one of the school readers 
entitled "The Hero of Haarlem." This was a tale of a 
boy twelve years of age who noticed a small leak in the 
dike and there being no one near, and not having time 
to go for help, he plugged up the hole with his finger and 
held it there several hours before leaving. After this I 
took a stoom tram for Leyden. This was the finest ride 
yet. More than two hours were consumed in going eighteen 
miles and the view was splendid. Sections of small vil- 
lages, gardens and orchards, and whole fields of dahlias 
and other flowers were seen. 

.As it was after 12 when I arrived at Leyden, the first 
thing was something to eat, then I spent a couple of hours 



RIVER RHINE 111 

rambling around. The cathedral church being opened I 
went in and inspected. It was not very large but had a 
beautiful interior. 

After this I boarded a train for The Hague and without 
going out from the station finished up my letter for Detroit 
and after posting boarded an electric train for Rotterdam. 
On arrival I hunted up an exchange office and changed 
most of my Dutch money for Belgian; then after a long 
walk went to my old lodgings and had supper. I then 
did some writing, then went out and bought some pro- 
visions for the morrow. After going back I wrote till 9 
when I turned in. 

SEPTEMBER 19. Arose at 5 and after I had washed 
and dressed walked down to the dock to take the boat to 
Antwerp, but was too early and could not get on. I then 
went over to a small waiting room and ate breakfast, 
afterwards going back to the boat and then was allowed 
to go aboard. The boat was small, just having a small 
cubbyhole at the stern for passengers. At 7 we started. 
I went on deck and stayed there watching the fine pano- 
rama until noon. 

The boat traveled down towards one of the mouths of 
the Rhine. Part of the way the stream was quite narrow 
and the view splendid, and we passed a continuous proces- 
sion of canal boats, string after string being hauled by 
small tugs. These were loaded with everything imagin- 
able. One had a great lot of wheat in the sheaf and 
several were loaded with hay. At Dordrecht we passed 
under a bridge, the smokestack being lowered at this 
time. At this point the river widened, averaging three 
miles across. Very little of the country could be seen. 
The passengers were few and select, there only being five 
men and a woman. 

Just after we passed a bridge one of the men accosted 
me. Finding out I was an American he struck up a con- 
versation in very good English. It turned out that he 
was a ship steward and had sailed in a: number of English 
boats and had learned the language in that way. We kept 
along in the wide stream with only one stop until 



112 ANTWERP 

we came to the mouth of the canal, which connects the 
Scheldt and Ehine rivers. Oiir boat went into a lock 
along with others and after they all got straightened out 
the water was turned on and up we went. This took 
several minutes and I took advantage and went ashore. 
There were a lot of the country people around and with 
the exception of the wooden shoes and an old headdress 
they were dressed similar to country people in America. 
It took two hours to go through the canal and it was 
very interesting. 

As it was crowded full with all kinds of boats I could 
easily spend a week riding along amidst scenery like this. 
On some boats the family wash was hung out, on others 
the women sat outside peeling potatoes or engaged in 
some other form of housework. At the end of the canal 
we went through the same performance of crowding into 
the lock until we were jammed like sardines and when we 
were ready the upper gate was closed and the water let 
out and then we headed out into the Scheldt which here 
is very much like a great bay. 

Two great English boats passed us going in. After 
awhile, the wind getting up and turning quite cold, I went 
below where I wrote for a time, afterward going up and 
staying until we pulled into the dock at 5 :30. During 
the last hour we had a splendid view of most of the town. 
On landing I spent an hour hunting up a lodging, going 
first to an address given me by St. Claire which was a 
considerable distance away, and not finding accommoda- 
tions there I came back to my starting point and located 
a place near by. 

Apparently everyone speaks English here, in fact it is 
so generally spoken that I am surprised when I accost 
a person and find he doesn't speak the language. The 
Telegraff No. 4 was the name of the boat I traveled on. 
After fixing up for my lodging I started out and strolled 
for a couple of hours, coming out on one of the main 
streets and boulevard. This city is a great contrast to 
the Dutch. They seem more like simple towns on account 
of the great number of canals and the rustic traffic upon 
these. I returned to my lodgings at 9 and then went to 
bed. 



ANTWERP 113 

SEPTEMBER 20. Being completely tired out the 
night before, after breakfast I went a few -blocks to the 
Notre Dame Cathedral inspecting the inside which is very 
large and fine. I went up to the top of the great steeple, 
paying fourteen cents to be permitted to laboriously trudge 
up the 500 steps to the top, but I was more than well 
repaid by the fine view obtained, there being an outside 
platform running all the way around. This was 325 feet 
from the street, enabling a person to see most of the city 
and for a considerable distance into the country. 

The best view is the one obtained of the river Sheldt 
which, from this height, looked like a ribbon winding in 
and out. On coming down walked until I came to the 
fine boulevard which I touched last night, and it being 
a splendid day enjoyed strolling along this avenue, more 
especially as the architecture of the buildings was pleas- 
ing to my artistic sense. I am neither an architect nor an 
artist but I enjoyed the beauty of these buildings which 
are mostly banks and office buildings, but, unlike same 
in our country, had more of a semi-private appearance. 
Continuing along, suddenly on my right I came upon an 
open air market where all varieties of fruit, nuts, vege- 
tables, meat, fish, butter, cheese, etc., were sold. 

I spent some time admiring the display and people and 
listening to them call out their wares. I then went into 
a large building where a fruit auction was in progress. 
After watching for some time I suddenly noticed two things 
— first that it was nearly 1 o 'clock and that I was hungry. 
.As I saw no eating house near I bought some cakes, a 
stick of chocolate, which is very cheap in this country, 
and some brand new thin shelled walnuts, and sitting on 
the boulevard proceeded to devour this variety. After 
resting a bit I went on, passing a grand building, the 
Museum des Beaux Arts, but did not go in as I had a 
surfeit of pictures and it was too fine outside. 

A little further along I came to a magnificent building 
with a great tower which I thought must be a palace of 
some kind but on reaching discovered it to be a branch 
station. Entering I secured some ink and then sat down 
and wrote for awhile. After this went into a postoffice, 



114 ANTWEEP 

finding out that stamps were issued here, figured the de- 
nominations I wanted and purchased some. I then went 
on to the church of St. Joseph. This was not as large as 
Notre Dame, but was far more beautiful, the interior be- 
ing built up mostly of small blocks of gray stone. There 
were a number of fine paintings and statues and a few 
splendid stained glass windows. 

After this I wandered through a little park, stayed 
some time to watch a crowd of children scrambling for 
chestnuts as they were shaken down to them by attend- 
ants. On finishing here I brought up at a magnificent 
structure, which proved to be the central station. This 
looked fine enough for a palace. If some of the palaces 
I have seen had been of this nature I would have gone 
into ecstacies over them. Several noble domes and in the 
lobby fine paintings and statues. After visiting this place 
I started off to my lodgings, going a different way from 
the morning. I forgot to say I passed by two fine statues 
of the late king. On going to my lodgings I had supper, 
then wrote and watched the crowd. Like at all hotels on 
the Continent, liquor was sold there. I was seated in a 
room containing five small tables and ten men were sitting 
at these drinking beer. Another was playing the piano in 
the corner, and one of the daughters of the house, who 
is a bar-maid, was seated at a table with three others 
smoking cigarettes. The bar was in the front while this 
room was in the center. 

From its appearance it must have been an old mansion, 
as in this room was a beautiful marble fireplace and a 
grand pier glass over the marble mantelpiece. The great 
French window and door were covered with hand painted 
flowers and in the room where I slept was a beautiful fire- 
place and great windows covered with hand painted roses. 
Just after the young lady had sung a song accompanied 
by the piano I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 21. Had to laugh at the landlady tell- 
ing me what my breakfast came to in pence instead of 
Belgian money. It required a mental effort on her part 
to convert one into the other, and almost as much of an 
effort on my part to translate it back. 



GHENT 115 

After breakfast I went about a little and then started 
out to hunt up the station. I found one nearer than I 
expected and had a little time to wait until 9 :05 when I 
started for Ghent, the first stage being made by ferry 
across the river, afterwards by train. This was a grand 
journey, not ending until 11. The day was beautiful, the 
sun shining brightly, and we passed through what ap- 
peared to be a great garden and orchard, no field contain- 
ing more than five acres, and most of them not more than 
one, there being fields of wheat not larger than this. 
Everyone was at work, father and all. I saw probably half 
a dozen one-horse harrow outfits in operation and a one-ox 
rig. The grain was stacked in very small stacks, all being 
carefully thatched. The houses were brick, some being 
thatched while the rest of the roofs were slate or tile. 

Arriving at Ghent, we went almost entirely around the 
city before getting to the station. On arriving I spent 
about an hour trying to find a lodging, and then it be- 
ing dinner time went into a cafe and had some dinner. 
After a few minutes went on down to the great Cathedral, 
but it was not open. Near there I discovered a lodgment 
which I thought would suit, but after going in to find the 
price I ran up against a difficulty. I could not make 
myself understood. It took all of fifteen minutes to find 
out that bed and breakfast would cost me one franc and 
a half. As this sounded fairly reasonable I thought I 
had better mark the place for the evening. After this 
I walked on to the Chateau de Flanders, where John of 
Gaunt was born in 1344. This is a grand old ruin and 
well worth seeing. Then I took a tram for the Musee des 
Beaux Arts which I inspected. A great number of the 
pictures were of that heart-breaking type of the Cruci- 
fixion and kindred kinds. The balance were portraits and 
landscapes of later times. 

After this I walked a little through the fine park joining 
the Musee, and then strolled slowly back to the street and 
frorn^ there back to the Cathedral St. Boven and entered 
and inspected same. This is a very old church, but does 
not look as ruinous inside as some. It had the usual 
small chapels along the side, a few statues and paintings 
and a very fine, great altar. 



116 GHENT 

After this I went on a little farther, had supper and 
went back a different way to the station, sat down in the 
waiting room and did some writing, resting and watching 
the crowd. This place unlike Antwerp, which is princi- 
pally Dutch, is inhabited for the most part by French- 
speaking people, and for the first time on my trip I began 
to notice a distinct difference in the looks of the people. 
Heretofore they had been mostly of the blond persuasion, 
but here they began to run to brunettes. 

While sitting in the station I saw a great number of 
soldiers go to different trains. They were wonderfully 
gotten up, each with his sword and trappings looking like 
a general at the very least. At 8 I went to my lodgings, 
where I wrote and watched the other occupants of the 
sitting room until 9 :30 when I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 22. After breakfast started to hunt up 
the English Church, the address of which I had obtained. 
A small boy piloted me there and finding I had three- 
quarters of an hour before service I went in and explored 
the ruins of the St. Bavon Abbey, built in 1125, and it is 
a ruin certainly. Part of the roof of the old church is 
all that is intact. There 'was a garden, and the old well, 
used so many centuries ago, is still unfilled, there being 
a windlass and bucket, and a fresh pail of water is hauled 
up every morning. I plucked a leaf from the wall, enclos- 
ing it in a letter to Detroit. After going through this 
I returned to the church, where, after a Jong string of 
formal exercises, I listened to a fairly good sermon, then 
wandered down to the Chateau de Flanders built in A. D. 
868. I went through this very old castle of the time of 
the dark ages, part of it being in a fairly good state of 
preservation. I saw the dungeons and then climbed up 
on the ramparts. At intervals there were trap doors, which 
were very handy for the purpose of dropping refractory 
persons into the moat below. "While up here I sat down 
and wrote in my diary, which I had marked, and also 
wrote a few words in a letter I was sending to Detroit. 
I spent more than an hour going through, there being 
forty-nine different sections. At each place there was a 



GHENT 117 

description in Dutch, French, German and English. I 
carved my initials on one of the stones of the rampart. 
The first building was partly destroyed and rebuilt in 
1138. Quite a number of the rooms are in a fine state 
of preservation. The private rooms of the Count and 
Countess, and the great living room being among these. 
After finishing here I had dinner and started on a long 
walk, the day being fairly warm and my lodgings being 
filled up with people in all stages of drunkenness. Sun- 
day is a great fete day for those who are not working and 
have money to spend and a harvest to those who cater 
to the spendthrift. All the cafes, bakeries, candy stores 
and a great many other kinds were open. A few go to 
church early in the morning, then they are done for the 
day. I wandered on until I came to a canal. At this point 
a small train was standing. I suppose it ran out to some 
of the smaller towns. There being seats here, I sat down 
for some time watching the crowd. I then started out 
along the canal, there being a dirt path which seemed a 
relief to my poor feet. I continued along this for a 
couple of miles, thinking I would eventually reach the 
open country. At this point the canal joined the river and 
I took another rest and watched the continual passing of 
boats. After this I slowly wended my way back and 
finally after a number of stops brought up at the station 
at 5. In this walk I had passed at least a dozen cafes, 
where a concert and dance were in progress. I stayed in 
the station watching the people until 6, when after getting 
a bite to eat I again went to church, there being a con- 
gregation of fifteen besides myself, but I enjoyed the 
service and the poor feeble minister did the best he could. 
On going out and finding it was only 7 :30 I strolled 
around until 8, then going to my lodgings found four 
families gathered in the room, all drinking beer and talk- 
ing at once. I sat in the corner and rested and wrote until 
9 when I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 23. After breakfast, went to the station 
where at 9 I boarded a slow train for Brussels, a trip of 
thirty-eight miles and consuming more than two hours, 



118 BRUSSELS 

but I enjoyed every foot of it, the scenery being similar 
to that between Antwerp and Ghent — mostly small fields 
of potatoes or roots and odd orchards and vineyards, a 
few fields of hops and a little pasture land. The land- 
scape was covered with whole families digging and pick- 
ing potatoes. I saw one team of horses and several ox 
rigs. The sight of this trip was seen at one of the small 
towns where a wheelbarrow came trundling along, pro- 
pelled by a dog pulling and a man pushing. 

On arriving at Brussels, I started out to locate the Y., 
the address having been given to me by St. Claire. I 
think this will be the last time I shall try to locate a place 
of this kind, because, after more than an hour's walk, I 
finally found the place but it did me no good as they 
had no room. I had to make a fresh start. 

Luckily I happened to turn the right way and ran into 
just what I wanted, getting a room for fifty centimes. 
After paying for one night I went back to the place 
mentioned by St. Claire, Maison du Peu Pies, a great 
building containing a restaurant, library, etc. It is the 
headquarters of the Socialists' party. I had dinner and 
wrote and watched the crowd. The sitting capacity must 
have been all of 250, and most of the seats were filled. At 
1:30 I started out for the Palace Royal, but after going 
a few blocks turned aside on seeing a great building in 
the distance. This proved to be the Palais de Justice, and 
if ever a building deserved the name of palace this did, 
being 560 feet by 590 and built proportionately. There 
were hundreds of great marble pillars, massive blocks of 
stone and then to crown all a great dome in the center. 
An elevator ran to the top and from this point one had 
a splendid view of the city, more especially as the site 
of the building was a great hill. I spent the time until 4 
going over a little of this immense place and then walked 
slowly around the outside, admiring from every side. 
After this went into the Notre Dame church. This was 
not as large as the one in Antwerp, but had a* beautiful 
interior. 

A little further on I came to the Royal Museum, a 
noble building. I spent what time I had until 5 admir- 



BRUSSELS 119 

ing the statuary and a few of the paintings. Almost across 
the street was a church, St. Jacques. This is a Royal 
Chapel. It is small but well appointed and unlike most 
of the others has a few upholstered chairs. I presumed 
these were for royalties. Two large paintings of the 
Crucifixion hung on either side. One represented the 
rending of the veil of the temple. Just around the corner 
I at last came upon the palace itself, and it well deserves 
the name. It looks something like my idea of what a palace 
should be like. In the first place, it is on a hill facing a 
fine park. The frontage is about 1000 feet. The main 
building is of beautiful gray stone with marble pillars, 
which have not tarnished and there are a number of cupo- 
las. I stood and admired the building and watched the 
manoeuvres of some soldiers, then went through the park 
and back near my lodgings; strolled quite a distance up 
the Rue Haute, a street filled with cheap shops, cafes, 
etc., and being tired and hungry, went into a restaurant 
and had some supper and wrote and watched the crowd 
for awhile. This was a very interesting place, all kinds 
of eccentric looking people coming and going. Just across 
from me stood a young fellow with a little mustache, 
small chin whiskers, queer looking clothes and wearing 
an immense black bow. A great number looked like the 
most violent of anarchists although they may have been 
absolutely harmless. At 9 I turned in. 

SEPTEMBER 24. After breakfast took a long walk, 
bringing up just before 10 at the town hall, Hotel de Ville. 
This is one of the sights of Europe. It was first built in 
1300, but was added to from time to time for two hundred 
years. It was built in what is called pointed style, which 
means a continuous corrugation. The different rooms 
shown to the public are very beautiful and are decorated 
with pictures, paintings and statues. The council chamber 
is unequalled among these. 

One of the rooms is known as the marriage hall and just 
as I came to this a number of soldiers, dressed in the grand 
costume of the 18th century, paraded by and took seats in 
the room. I sat down for a few minutes when one of the 



120 WATERLOO 

officials told me that a marriage party was expected any 
minute, and that I would have to retire to a small en- 
closure roped off. In a few minutes a long line of carriages 
arrived containing the marriage party, and when they all 
got into the room a grand show was made by both men and 
women. The ceremony, which was only civil, didn't take 
long, but was well worth seeing under the circumstances. 
I then went down a grand staircase. 

After another long walk, had dinner and took a train 
for Waterloo station, ten miles away. On arrival I walked 
about three miles before getting to the battlefield; found 
I had taken the wrong road, but I didn't mind as I had 
a good opportunity of seeing the peasants at work along 
the way. The chief attraction of the battlefield is a great 
artificial hill 150 feet high, on the top of which are three 
great blocks of stone crowned with an immense lion. Up 
here the whole field of Waterloo is spread out before one. 
I took a seat on the sunny side of the monument and 
admired the view, and could not help contrasting its 
present peacefulness with that terrible day nearly one 
hundred years before. 

After this walked partly around the field, saw 
the great Hanoverian and Q-ordon monuments, stopped for 
some time watching road-making operations, and then 
started back towards the station which was called Braine 
le Alleud, taking a shorter road this time, but I could 
not resist the temptation to go into the field, part of the 
old battle ground, where seeding was in operation, and 
watch the process. 

There were, four men and three teams of horses at 
work. One dragged, another rolled, and two others oper- 
ated a primitive drill, one going along by the side of the 
team driving and the other going behind using the levers 
and keeping the shoes clear of clogs with a stick. I fol- 
lowed them around once and then taking a little wheat, 
thinking I might plant it in America, went on my way. 

At the station I had to wait twenty-five minutes for the 
train, so spent most of the time writing. There was a crowd 
so I had to stand. Coming out of the station at a different 
side I was completely lost and wandered around for some 



BRUSSELS 121 

time before I got my bearings, and it was more than an 
hour before I located the "Maison" at 7:30., After sup- 
per, which I needed by this time, I watched the crowd 
until 9 when I went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 25. After breakfast took a long walk 
up to a park opposite the palace, from this went to the 
Rue Regent where there are a great many buildings. I 
passed around these admiring as I went. I came out on 
the grand Boulevard des Regent. It is a splendid avenue 
and would do credit to any city. 

There are roadways for trams, wagons, motors and bi- 
cycles and even a special way for horseback riders. Out- 
side this is a wide strip and in the center are trees on 
either side, and seats. This for upwards of a mile had 
windings in and out and finally I came to a street on 
which is a palace. I turned off here and went along until 
I came to the Royal Museum, which opened at 10. 

I went in and started where I left off last night. There 
are two wonderful paintings of Van Alsloot, the one rep- 
resenting a parade of the crafts in front of the Maison 
Roe and the soldiers manoeuvering. In the first are more 
than 5,000 figures and in the latter there must be five hun- 
dred. There is also a painting representing the legend 
of "William Tell and the apple. I finished here at 12, had 
dinner, then took a stroll back to the Royal Portrait Gal- 
lery, and here I found a fine collection of paintings and 
portraits, some of them of immense size. 

Whether I was feeling just right I don't know, but I 
enjoyed these paintings more than any I have seen for 
some time. I took more time for once. There was one 
splendid painting, a reproduction of modern life entitled 
' ' In the Morning. ' ' It pictured a number of the idle rich, 
partly intoxicated, leaving the house after an all-night 
debauch, while on the sidewalk are workers on their way 
to their places of toil. After finishing here I went to the 
Cathedral. It is a tremendous structure, filled with an 
unusual number of chapels, etc. On going out I took a 
long walk about the Rue Haute and along this to the 
Boulevard des Mide. At this point is a number of old 



122 BRUSSELS 

block houses and in here were found relics. It was closed, 
but I walked around here and much was seen. I then 
made my way to the place where I ate and after supper 
finished my letter to Detroit and did some writing and 
watching the crowd until 9 when I went home. 

SEPTEMBER 26. Had breakfast and then went 
around to a station. While waiting for a train, wrote and 
posted a card to Detroit. Left Brussels for Paris at 9. 
Before reaching Mons, a fair-sized city, we passed through 
one tunnel, and quite a stretch of forest land. The larger 
share of the way it was fairly flat and all cultivated, or in 
pasture. The last is. not so intensively farmed as between 
Antwerp and Ghent and the fields are larger. A great 
amount of grain is raised and all along farmers were 
ploughing and seeding fall wheat. 

At Feignis, the next stop, we crossed into Prance. All 
had to get off the train, enter a room in the station and 
run the gamut of customs. They were very strict in this. 

After this we were on our way, getting only nicely 
started when we stopped at Manbug which seemed to be 
quite a town. Between there and Paris the train stopped 
at several places. The view was fine all the way, being 
tunnel, varied fields, orchards and forests; kept me busy 
watching the scenery and the people in the same com- 
partments. 

These were an elderly gentleman from Boston and a 
Paris family consisting of mother and five children. The 
oldest girl, about twenty, had all the airs and graces the 
French are noted for. About half way of the journey she 
struck up a conversation with the old gentleman and they 
seemed to be having a fine time from the amount of laugh- 
ing. As I didn't do any laughing I finally attracted their 
attention and the young lady, who was sitting opposite, 
said something in French. I shook my head and said I 
was an American. With that the old gentleman spoke up 
and wanted to know what part I was from and on telling 
him, said that he was from Boston and had been in Bel- 
gium for a number of years. I think he was somewhat 
of a jollier and had me at a disadvantage. From that on 



PARIS 123 

there was quite a constant interchange of compliments 
between the young lady and myself, the gentleman acting 
as interpreter, and everybody was kept laughing. What 
made it more amusing was the almost absolute surety 
that he was not keeping to the facts. It seemed like bid- 
ding farewell to old friends when I had to leave these 
people at the station. 

As soon as I arrived I had my usual troubles finding 
the way. I had the address of an English Y., which I 
tried to locate. After several mis-directions I managed to 
find the place, but was no better off than when I left the 
station, they having no accommodation. They directed 
me to a couple of different places, but I knew I was re- 
ceiving directions that I would not take as the prices were 
prohibitive. 

At both Amsterdam and Rotterdam I stopped at hotels 
kept by the Salvation Army, so I started out to find their 
place here, and did so after an interminable walk and 
found it was located within five blocks of the station where 
I left the train, and at last my troubles were over in this 
line for a couple of weeks, as I expected to stay here that 
long. After supper I went as far as the station, spending 
the time until 9:30 going over the time-tables, then to 
my bed. 

SEPTEMBER 27. As a change had breakfast, consist- 
ing of a bowl of milk and rolls, on the sidewalk. Took 
a long walk along the Rue Lafayette, a fine street, then 
through another, and about the time I was going to re- 
trace my steps coming back to the station where I started. 

This place, like all European cities, is hard for an 
American to find his way about, as the streets run in 
every direction. In front of the station is a great map 
of the city and it is a proposition trying to locate a street 
on the map, let alone trying to follow it. 

I did a little writing and took a long walk, going back 
to my lodgings just at noon, passing and inspecting the 
church of St. Laurent. After dinner I rested and listened 
to the conversation of those around me when I started 
out for a grand walk along the Boulevards Strasburg, 
Sebastopool and Rivoli. 



124 PAEIS 

The first two are wide streets with a great wide walk on 
either side, a row of trees planted near the edges and 
seats all along the sidewalk. On either side are shops and 
offices of every kind. 

Passing through the first two into the third I came to 
the church of St. Luke which I entered and viewed. None 
of these churches are very large. On coming to the Rivoli, 
on the left I noticed soldiers pacing up and down, and 
going over found it to be the headquarters of the police. 

This is a large sized building, built in the form of a 
hollow square. All along one side of the ground floor are 
the stables for horses and directly above are the quarters 
of officers. Just to the left of this building is the greatest 
church in France, the Notre Dame Cathedral. 

I spent some time viewing this, not on account of the 
beauty but the immensity of the interior. The altars and 
pictures appear to be plainer than most. Of course it has 
some very grand and beautiful stained-glass windows. On 
coming out I went around the outside. One side borders 
on the Seine. It is a very small stream, not more than 
two hundred feet wide, at this place. 

On looking across I noticed a great dome in the distance 
and started out to see what it was part of, and was well 
repaid, as it turned out to be the Pantheon. It was first 
built as a monument to St. Genevieve. I have not language 
at my command strong enough to express the beauty of 
this place. 

It is very large, built of stone, with a great number of 
huge columns and pillars, but it has an interior over which 
a person can enthuse. There is a great central place. Then 
on either side several steps leading up to a platform that 
runs along the walls, which are covered with very large 
paintings representing the life of St. Genevieve, six fine 
paintings of Joan d' Arc and a number of others depicting 
scenes of the history of France. In the front is a gigantic 
group in marble representing the scene at the time of the 
revolution. Then it is filled with beautiful columns, pil- 
lars and arches. The ceiling and inside of the great dome 
are all covered with paintings. 

On leaving here I struck back towards the river, pass- 



PARIS 125 

ing a great place, the University of Paris. Coming to the 
Cluny Museum I spent a few minutes in the grounds, 
which were filled with old relics, like statues fixed on old 
walls, buildings, etc. 

From here I went on until I got to my lodging. After 
supper I read through the Paris edition of New York 
Herald, which I bought on the way up, containing the 
news that the Giants and Bostons had won respective pen- 
nants of their league, also giving the standing of the 
clubs. As this was the first time I had seen any baseball 
news since leaving New York it was a treat. 

After this I spent an hour or two at the Y. M. C. A. and 
then to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 28. Happened to meet a man who could 
speak English and he took me out to a restaurant he 
patronized, which was better than usual. After breakfast 
he walked down as far as the postoffice with me, and I 
found a letter from St. Claire, but no paper. Unlike all 
other foreign cities I visited, there are very few officials 
who speak English. I fooled around quite awhile trying 
to find out about these papers. I wrote some cards, then 
went down along the Louvre. A few minutes' walk brought 
me to the palace of the Tuileries, which is opposite the 
Louvre Museum. Here is a wonderful collection. I 
counted 153 paintings in a single room, but it was very hard 
on my eyes viewing this collection, as some places they are 
hung three and four feet deep. The interior of this mag- 
nificent gallery would be well worth seeing if there were 
no paintings. The rooms number forty and are of all 
sizes, some of the great halls being very fine. The walls 
and ceiling are decorated in gilt. There are beautiful 
arches and pillars of many-colored marble. 

One of the grandest rooms contains eighteen very large 
paintings by Rubens. These are of the time of Marie de 
Medici, wife of Henry IV. and mother of Louis XIII. 
This room and the paintings alone are worth a trip from 
America to see. This being a noted art gallery. I ex- 
pected that the entrance fee would be considerable, and 
would have been well satisfied to dig down for a good sized 



126 PARIS 

piece of money, but was agreeably disappointed to find 
that it was absolutely free. The value of all these great 
paintings is, of course, incalculable, and think what a 
tremendous loss to the world it would be if they were 
destroyed. 

I kept going till 12 :30, when I went to a restaurant and 
got dinner. This was a bustling, busy place, not so large 
as the People 's Palace in Brussels, but doing more business. 
The regulations were especially helpful for me, as I would 
buy a franc's worth of checks from the cashier, then go 
into a corner where I helped myself to dishes, next to a 
great range which was covered with pots containing food 
of every kind, and I could point to different things. Then 
at the counter were bread, porter, wine and milk. I ate 
my dinner and watched the crowd for awhile. When I 
went out it was raining and as I had left my umbrella 
at home, I stopped in the postoffice and wrote until 4. 
By this time the sun was shining again and I went back 
to the Louvre and stayed till it closed at 5. 

The palace of the Tuileries is a tremendous building, 
built in three hollow squares with the end of the last open. 
There must be ten acres of land inside each square. The 
buildings are three stories high, built of stone, gray with 
age. One has just a great yard, but the other two have 
beautiful gardens, which contain a number of statues. 
On coming out I went across the street to the Grand Maga- 
zine du Louvre, a splendid department store, and spent 
some time inspecting this. Then to supper and afterwards 
to my lodging, then out again to the Gare de Est station 
near by, where I did some writing and watched the crowd. 
Then went home and to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 29. After breakfast went down to the 
postoffice, then to the American Church, in Avenue de 
Alma, off the Champs Elysees. This is a grand walk, con- 
suming an hour. Went down the Rue de Rivoli, then to 
the Place Concordia, across this into the noted grand 
Avenue de Champs Elysees and along this to the church. 
All the grand adjectives I have at my command would 
not be enough to describe the beauty of this walk. There 



PARIS 127 

was a succession of palaces, monuments, beautiful gar- 
dens and trees. The church is a very elaborate affair in 
which the English service is used, and there was quite a 
large congregation. I had expected to find a different 
branch of the church but was disappointed. Was placed 
by the usher where I could neither see nor hear so did not 
get much benefit. As I wanted to get back for dinner I 
did not loiter along the way. On passing the postoffice 
I stopped and inquired about the bundle of papers from 
St. Claire. 

After dinner at my special restaurant I went back to 
my lodging. I then spent three hours walking, for exer- 
cise. After this I went to the station and read and wrote 
till 7 when I went to my lodging, had supper, watched the 
crowd for awhile and then went to bed. 

SEPTEMBER 30. After breakfast went down to the 
Louvre. I had forgotten it was closed on Mondays. I 
then went out and crossed the Seine and strolled along 
until I came to the railway station, went in and watched 
the crowd until 12. This was very interesting, there being 
all kinds of types, the general run of well-to-do dress 
and act like folks. Some of the wonderful get-ups are 
outrageous. A great number of very young men wear an 
atrocious little moustache and chin beard, and all French 
women are not beautiful by any means, although most of 
them know how to dress. I was amused by the antics of 
a very distinguished gentleman. He traveled up and down 
several times before he finally passed from my view, ac- 
companied by his wife and baby. An old gentleman, pre- 
sumably his father, and a little boy and maid brought 
up the rear, loaded down with parcels of all dimensions. 

In no continental countries are you allowed baggage on 
your ticket, consequently most people carry what they 
have into the train, and as a rule the third-class carriage 
has the appearance of a baggage car. 

At noon I went to my special restaurant. Going through 
the Tuileries I stopped and noticed in a small enclosure 
a statue of Lafayette, built by money subscribed by the 
school children of the States, under the auspices of the 
Daughters of the Revolution. 



128 PARIS 

After dinner I sat for quite awhile in the restaurant 
and watched the crowd. After going out I struck across 
to the Boulevard Sebastopol, then to the Eue Rivoli and 
along this until I came to the Hotel de Ville. I sat for 
some time watching a great crowd lined up in front of the 
Financial Office to take up a city bond issue of two mil- 
lion francs. The governments of both State and City, 
unlike ours, when they want to float a bond issue give the 
common people a chance to subscribe. 

After this I went through the part of the building one 
is allowed to enter. On the second floor all around open- 
ing onto the court are very beautiful stained glass win- 
dows, each panel having the arms and insignia of two 
of the Governors of the city. These covered a period of 
over five hundred years. 

On leaving here I went across the street to the Church of 
St. Francis, then on a little farther to the Churches of 
St. Paul and St. Louis. Both of these churches are medium 
sized and contain a number of fine paintings. The latter 
church has specially beautiful altars and statues, among 
them being one of Joan of Arc. 

I then continued along until I came to the Place de 
Bastille where the notorious prison was located. In the 
center of the square is now a great statue crowned with a 
gold Goddess of Liberty. After observing this I went on 
a little farther to the station. This is the; station where I 
shall take the train when I leave Paris. I stayed here 
taking, note of the crowd until 6. Going out I went along 
the Place Republique and the Boulevard Magenta home. 
After supper I watched the crowd awhile and then went to 
bed. 

OCTOBER 1. Went to the postoffice and from there 
to the Palace of the Tuileries Garden where I stayed until 
12, ruminating on the sins of the past, especially those 
against my eyes, as they had gone back on me completely. 
At noon I went to my special restaurant and ate dinner, 
and stayed there until 2 watching the people, then took a 
long stroll over to the Vincennes station, stopping there 
until 6 :30, writing a little and taking notice of the people, 



PARIS 129 

but for most part sat with my eyes closed to ease them. 
Would have left sooner but it was raining quite hard. 

At 6:30 started for home and had two narrow escapes 
from motor cars. This is a very dangerous city in that 
the streets running in every direction make so many cor- 
ners, there being dozens of places like the one at the City 
Hall in Detroit. After having supper I stayed at the table 
a little while and then went to bed. 

OCTOBER 2. Got a loaf of bread in the bakery and 
then went down to a little stand and had some breakfast, 
consisting of bread and hot milk. I then strolled down 
along the Magenta Boulevard, Rue de St. Dennis, Rue de 
Tiqueticone to the postoffice where I received a card from 
St. Claire and from one of my Detroit friends. The card 
from Detroit was to the effect that my letter had been 
received and enjoyed and that I would receive a long 
letter before leaving Paris. This cheered me considerably 
and made me almost forget about my eyes. 

I then strolled down the street to the Garden of the 
Tuileries where I watched the crowd for awhile then went 
into the gardens. Here I noticed an old lady manicuring 
her toe nails. Poor old thing, she probably stays at one 
of the cheap lodging houses where there are no facilities 
for doing anything of this kind. I stayed in the garden 
until 12, just resting my eyes and allowing my mind to 
wander into the past. I then went to my special restau- 
rant, stopping in the Bourse for a few minutes on my 
way. I got back into the corner where I could see what 
was going on. I judge the place was run by a sharp 
featured, shrew r d French lady who has two daughters, both 
fairly good looking. I amused myself watching the land- 
lady traveling up and down to find seats for the crowd. 

After eating I told a young fellow the names of several 
articles in English, and I listened to three men talking 
about the great strike in Spain and the threatened war in 
the Balkans. On going out I stopped at the New York 
Herald office and read a paper. It was full of war news 
and the great wind and rain of the day before. After a 
few minutes four girls came in and took seats at the 



130 PARIS 

same table, and I was amused listening to their chatter. 
Later on four well dressed negroes came in and sat down 
near by. It seemed odd to hear them talking French. 

At 2 I started for the Rue Turbigo and the Place Repub- 
lique. The latter is a fine large square with a great 
statue of the Goddess of Liberty in the center. Upon the 
statue were the three French words — Liber te, Eglite, 
Fraternite. I stayed there a little while watching the 
tremendous traffic. I went a little way to the Boulevard 
St. Martin and sat down and watched the people and 
traffic. In Paris, unlike London, the cab is not a past 
number, they being almost as plentiful as they were in 
St. Petersburg. All drivers wear a queer high hat like oil 
cloth. In Paris there are a great number of auto-buses, 
which always take the central track. 

They have quite a scheme for cleaning the streets. At 
intervals along the edge of the sidewalk are openings to 
let out water. The water flows along the edge of the curb 
and men and women go along with long sticks with a bunch 
of twigs tied on the end and sweep all the refuse into the 
running streams. Unlike in our cities, people are not al- 
lowed to ride on the outside of the cars, hanging on by 
their eyebrows. Only a certain number are allowed and 
when that number is reached the conductor turns down 
the board at the rear, which bears the legend, ' ' Complete, ' ' 
upon it. They have here, what I have never seen in any 
other city, motor street cleaners and sprinklers. Just 
then a man passed who attracted considerable attention, 
being dressed in black frock, coat and trousers, the latter 
of a high water variety and the former having on the 
back in red letters the legend, "Nouvae Circue," which I 
took to mean Novel Circus. He also wore a high hat and 
carried a wooden dog in his arm and went through some 
peculiar antics. 

About 4 it got a little cooler and I strolled by to the 
East station, from there took a long walk along the Rue 
Lafayette, down this to a great department store, called 
Galleries Lafayette. At this point six streets come to- 
gether and for more than an hour I stood and watched 
one of the traffic officers taking care of the traffic. The 



PARIS 131 

store itself was a very beautiful sight, having strung all 
along the front a great number of lights. After this, as 
it was raining quite heavily, and I had no umbrella with 
me, I went back to my lodgings. After supper I wrote 
and listened to the clamor for awhile and then went to bed. 

OCTOBER 3. After my usual breakfast of bread and 
hot milk I made a new departure in that I plunged boldly 
forth in the general direction of the Louvre and wandered 
on and on, until at last I brought up at the Place d ? Opera 
and spent a few minutes taking a good view of this splen- 
did national palace of music, then continued down toward 
the great monument I saw in the distance, which proved 
to be of the great Napoleon. This must have been 150 
feet in height and I counted twenty-two different battle 
scenes upon the stone. This was at the Place Vendome. 
Just across the way I noticed a crowd gathered in front 
of the Hotel Rhine. Shortly after joining them a couple 
of gentlemen came up and got into an auto and drove 
away. I afterwards found out that they were the French 
Minister of State and the Russian Minister of Foreign 
Affairs. I then went on to the Palace Gardens, spent a few 
minutes watching the birds eating out of a man's hand, 
and then went into a special little enclosure that I had 
occupied for a time the last three mornings and wrote 
for some time. After this I strolled to the postoffice where 
I wrote a card to Detroit and then went to dinner, after- 
ward as usual noticing the crowd and staying there until 2. 
I then went to the Tuileries Gardens and the park facing 
the same, and sat down in a favorite corner and took a 
sun bath, while I watched the passing stream of vehicles 
and people. It being so nice at this place I stayed there 
for more than two hours, most of this time watching the 
efforts of a pitiful little fellow trying to play with a ball. 
At last the sun went down below the trees, it began to 
get chilly so I went back to the postoffice, stopping for a 
few minutes to watch a man making a sand mold for a 
cast. At the office I spent the time until 6 writing, and 
then to my restaurant for supper. Stayed here until 7 :30 
watching the crowd and then went to my lodgings. On 



132 PARIS 

my tendering a five franc piece as payment for my room, 
was told it was counterfeit. As I had gotten the said 
piece as change at a branch postoffice that morning, I 
never dreamed of getting bad money at a place of this 
kind. After watching the crowd a few minutes I went 
to bed. 

OCTOBER 4. After breakfast, I started to hunt up 
the office where I had obtained the five franc. As I 
had just wandered at random yesterday I had a hard time 
to locate it, and when I did I got no satisfaction, the same 
man not being at the desk. Afterwards I went down to 
the Place d' Opera, and noticing a sign "Chicago Daily 
News Reading Room/ 7 went in and spent some time read- 
ing, then walked along the Boulevards Italiens and Mont 
Marte, until I came to the postoffice, going and inquiring 
for mail, then as it was near noon went to dinner. It 
being quite crowded there, and there were numbers waiting 
for seats, I left as soon as I had finished eating, then 
viewed the Church of St. Eustace, near the Bourse. I 
then went down to the Herald office and read the news 
displayed in the window. After this to the Tuileries, and 
across the Seine to the Institute de France, a kind of a 
technical school. I just went into the main corridor, but 
no farther, then down along the quay to the Orleans 
station, where I stopped awhile and watched the crowd, 
then along the quay past the house of Rousseau, then quite 
a little farther on to the Parliament building. This is a 
low structure with a narrow frontage, but very deep. 
There are thirty steps leading up to the base, a foundation 
for twelve great pillars, which uphold the portico, which 
is richly carved. In front of the sides were six statues, 
four sitting and two standing. Further along I came to 
a bridge leading across to what appeared to be a palace. 
On the left was a grand esplanade, probably forty rods 
wide, reaching down about eighty rods to the Hotel des 
Invalides, and the Church of St. Louis. The hotel is the 
headquarters of the "War Department. Inside the court- 
yard and covering the corridor runs entirely around the 
building and oh the walls are a number of paintings 



PAEIS 133 

representing saints in the early history of France. At the 
rear is a church which is different from most Catholic 
churches as it was nearly as light as the outside and again 
instead of chairs there were long cushioned benches. There 
are not many altars but quite a number of small paintings 
of Christ and on the pillars are tablets commemorating 
great battles, or men. To the right of the main altar is a 
small room built on. This contains a great tomb against 
the wall. In a glass case are the funeral drapings and in 
two small caskets are grand gold wreaths and the plaster 
cast of the occupant's dead face. In an alcove in the front 
is a funeral carriage that conveyed the body to the tomb. 
Around the walls near the top of the church are hanging 
relics of 479 flags captured in battle. 

On coming out I followed the crowd to the rear and came 
upon the tomb of Napoleon. The tomb is a grand building 
about 100 feet square with a great dome in the center, 
rising to an immense height. In the center of the interior 
is a round opening in the floor about twenty feet in depth, 
and in this, resting on two blocks of marble, one low and 
the other high, is the sarcophagus, very large. This looks 
as if it were made of mahogany. The interior is all white, 
there being a number of pillars and arches and the walls 
are covered with fine paintings; within grottoes are other 
sarcophagi of the Bonapartes. At the rear is a grand 
altar and steps lead down to the door leading to the tomb. 
In niches are the bodies of Bertrand and Drouot, Na- 
poleon's favorite generals, who followed him to St. Helena 
and stayed with him until he died. A fine painting covers 
the interior of the tomb to the top. Just think, no man 
that ever lived has such a magnificent tomb. 

On coming out I struck for the Eiffel tower, passing the 
Ferris wheel on the way, but when I reached the tower 
and saw what a proposition it would be to go to the top, 
it being then almost closing time, I postponed my ascent. 
On my way back passed a magnificent building, called 
Palais des Beaux Arts, but did not stop to admire it, going 
along Champs Elysees and through the palace gardens, 
then on to the postoifice where I wrote until 6, when I 
went to supper, and after eating and noticing the crowd 
for awhile, went to bed. 



134 PAEIS 

OCTOBER 5. After breakfast strolled down to the 
postoffice, talked for a minute and examined a couple of 
motor cars that had collided, then on again to the great 
Central market. This is a tremendous affair, there being 
six great buildings and all the streets in the vicinity are 
crowded with carts and vehicles of every description. I 
just happened to notice this morning that there are no news 
boys here. The papers are sold by men and women. On 
arriving at the postoffice inquired for mail and then went 
to the Louvre. Stayed there until noon. After dinner 
went to the postoffice, did some writing, then passed a 
Herald office and glanced at the news bulletin, and then 
on a long walk to the Eiffel tower. This is utterly unlike 
my preconceived idea of it. 

There are four great foundations about 200 feet apart 
known as the north, south, east and west pillars, and from 
these rise great masses of structural iron forming an arch 
upon which the first platform is built. This is about a 
hundred feet square and has a theater, restaurant, etc., 
upon it. Then another couple of hundred feet higher is 
a platform, and then a second stage which is probably 
fifty feet square, then at the summit, 960 feet up, is an 
enclosed steel platform 100 feet in circumference, and then 
ten feet above this is another platform with just a railing 
around, and how the wind blows up here ! 

The ascent to the top is made in three different lifts, 
one goes up to the second stage, and the other two divide 
the distance to the summit. As the elevator goes slowly, 
and as the sides have windows all around, a person has a 
continuous changing view of the city. The height to the 
extreme tip is one thousand feet, this being more than 
300 feet higher than the next highest structure, the tower 
of the Singer building in New York. On coming down 
I went around to the Ferris wheel and gazed at it for 
some time, allowing my mind to run back nineteen years 
to the time of the Chicago fair. After being up to the 
top of the tower there was no inducement for me to take 
a trip on the wheel. 

I then went along to the Avenue Duquesne, thence to the 
quay on Magertio street. An amusement park is situated 



PARIS 135 

here. Going through the palace gardens I stopped for a 
few minutes to watch the antics of a number of autom- 
atons, then to a restaurant, being just in time for supper. 
After supper I wrote and watched the crowd as usual 
until 8. I had been thinking while sitting here how much 
better the customs of this country are than ours. We 
just hustle to our restaurant, bolt our food, and go out as 
soon as possible. Here you are supposed to take plenty of 
time to eat and then be in no hurry to leave. After this 
I went home and to bed. 

OCTOBER 6. After breakfast strolled down to the 
postoffice and after writing awhile started out to find the 
English Church, but after being misdirected several times 
gave it up as a bad job. It then being too late, I wan- 
dered around a little enjoying scenery and then back to 
the postoffice where I wrote till noon. I then inquired for 
mail and was handed a conundrum. On the wrapper was 
"C. B. Struthers, London, England/' and the additional 
''Post Restante, Paris.' 7 The wrapper was postmarked 
" Detroit, Sept. 24," and yet when I opened the parcel 
all it contained was a copy of the London Daily Mail of 
October 4th. I have been puzzled ever since to get the 
answer. My supposition is that St. Claire got the paper 
sent from Detroit and pushed the mail under the cover 
and then forwarded to Paris, and in the shuffle the Detroit 
paper had slipped out and disappeared. If this proves to 
be the solution I shall owe St. Claire a calling down, and 
whatever is the answer I seem to be doomed to a continual 
strain of disappointment in regard to getting mail from 
Detroit. Such being the case, in my next letter I shall 
ask the folks to discontinue sending the paper and then 
not expecting I will not be disappointed. 

After dinner I stayed till 2, reading my paper and 
observing the people, then took a long walk through the 
palace gardens and along the Champs Elysees, where the 
Garden de Paris stops. I sat down and read a little and 
observed the great crowd coming and going. I then went 
on to the top of the avenue where the great Arch de 
Triumph is situated. Passing through this I continued 



136 PARIS 

on down the Avenue de Boulogne and then turned back to 
the arch, going up to the top, which is 150 feet high. 
A fine view is obtained from this. The arch is double and 
is about seventy-five feet square, and all the way up the 
pillars, were the names of battles fought by Napoleon. 

On going down I continued on back the avenue, stop- 
ping for a few minutes and listening to a couple of Punch 
and Judy shows, then kept going till I reached the restau- 
rant. 

After supper watched the crowd as usual. I have been 
greatly amused at the antics of one of the waiters. One 
part of the room is reserved for those who pay a trifle 
extra to be served, and this waiter is jumping around like 
a chicken with its head off. After this I went home and 
to bed. 

OCTOBER 7. After breakfast strolled along the Boule- 
vard Magenta, coming out at the Place de Bastile, and then 
along the Boulevard de Bastile to the Zoo Gardens. 

Paris deserves commendation for the splendid Zoo, not 
only for the fine collection of animals, etc., but more espe- 
cially for the splendid Gardens, and accommodations for 
the animals, for having plenty of room and in many cases 
natural surroundings. I spent some time here and then 
started for my restaurant for I had a long way to go. 

After dinner I noticed the crowd for awhile, then went 
to the postoffice to see if I could solve the disappearance 
of my paper. I waited till 3 before I got tired and went 
out. First went into an office of the Societie General and 
tried to cash one of my AB. checks, and not having the 
kind of money wanted I made a blind guess and started 
for the Place de Opera, knowing that I would find what 
I wanted there, and made out all right after considerable 
twisting and turning. 

After getting my check cashed, went across to Cook's 
office and turned some of the proceeds into German money, 
then went into the Herald office and wrote till 5, when I 
again went to the postoffice, and this time located a man 
who could speak English, and had the satisfaction of find- 
ing out that if the Detroit paper had been enclosed with 



PARIS 137 

the other paper and fallen out anywhere it would be sent 
back to Detroit ; thus another grievous disappointment for 
me. 

I then went to supper. For the first time at this place 
my satisfaction in a meal was partly spoiled on account of 
the behavior of a drunk. I sat till 7 :30, then w T ent home 
and to bed at 8. 

OCTOBER 8. After breakfast started for the Sacre 
de Coeur and after twisting and turning at last reached it. 
This is the finest of the fine as to its position and exterior, 
it being built on a great hill which must be two hundred 
feet above the street level. The sides of the hill are almost 
perpendicular and in order to reach the top it is necessary 
to mount several flights of steps and then the grandeur of 
the great edifice will overwhelm one. 

The only place I saw anything like this was in St. Peters- 
burg. The building is new, the outside approaches and 
steps and the great altar not being finished. The material 
used is a gray stone almost white. There are eleven domes, 
a large one in the center, four smaller and six still smaller. 
But I cannot put down on paper the feeling of awe that 
came over me on getting a full view of this edifice. There 
is nothing striking about the interior. The main altar is 
not finished and is boarded up so a person cannot tell what 
it will be like, but two of the others are splendid, being 
finished in marble beautifully inlaid. 

I didn't go to the top of the dome, first, because I had 
viewed the city from every angle at great heights, and 
second because, although the sun shone brightly, there 
was a kind of haze hanging over the city which obscured 
the view. After leaving here I struck out for the post- 
office, passed the Herald office, read the bulletin and got 
there after being more than an hour on the way. On 
inquiry for mail was handed a large document which I 
concluded was a letter I was expecting from Detroit. 

As it was almost 12 I didn't open it but hurried for a 
restaurant where I am afraid I took less time than usual. 
I read every one of the sixteen Epistles on the long roll 
within the huge envelope. I then went to the Bastile and 



138 PAEIS 

it being open climbed the winding stair within the interior 
to the top and spent a few minutes admiring the view. 
Then on down to the Zoo, and went around this, spent 
some time watching the antics of an elephant who seemed 
almost human in the intelligence shown. After this I went 
through the gardens, thence strolling slowly towards the 
postoffice where I finished a letter to Detroit. Then to 
supper and after sitting awhile as usual, went home and 
to bed. 

OCTOBER 9. After breakfast strolled down to the 
office and spent the time from 9 :30 until 1 writing mes- 
sages to friends in Detroit. After dinner took an extra 
long walk bringing up at the Chicago News office where 
I read the papers for awhile. Then went to the St. Augus- 
tine, headquarters of the Salvation Army, where I ob- 
tained information in regard to some of their hotels in 
other cities, then on a little farther to the Church de la 
Madeline. The exterior of this could be described as a 
number of immense columns enclosing a flat roof building, 
there being about a hundred of these columns in or run- 
ning entirely around the building. This was built in 1764. 
The interior is different from most churches in that the 
main altar is at the side instead of the rear. After leaving 
here went to the postoffice where I changed my address to 
Berlin, then to supper, not spending any more time than 
necessary, then into a barber shop where I had a hair cut. 
They have a peculiar practice here. "When I paid the 
price, indicated on the tariff sheet, I was told to put an- 
other five centimes into a box. This was to help pay for 
the gas used. Next time I will have work of this kind done 
in the daytime. After this I took one last stroll and then 
went home and to bed. 

OCTOBER 10. Arose at the unearthly hour of 5, 
finished packing my grip and then strolled leisurely down 
to the station, taking in the early morning sights. I 
heard the bray of a donkey for the first time since leaving 
Ireland, and the queer part of it is that I could understand 
him just as well as I could the Irish donkey. 



DIJON 139 

Arrived at the station in ample time, and after securing 
my ticket boarded the train and spent the intervening time 
till 7 writing. Till we reached Lens the country was quite 
flat, And after leaving the vicinity of this city was mostly 
planted to wheat; from that on it became more hilly. 

As we neared Brienon I noticed considerable of the land 
was devoted to sugar beets and was not surprised to see 
a sugar refinery located here. A little farther along 
passed through two towns. At this point it was quite 
mountainous and all arable land was covered with vine- 
yards. 

Eeached Dijon at 12 and spent the next two hours stroll- 
ing around the town. Went into a couple of small churches 
and the Cathedral of St. Eigne. The latter is a fine church, 
having a beautiful interior, the special feature being a 
number of splendid paintings. 

At 3 I boarded the train for Dole. Just on the outside 
of the outskirts of Dijon was a sign that seemed familiar 
viz: " Heinz 57 Varieties.' ' 

Fields of sugar beets were scattered along the road and 
the majority of the people were pulling and chopping off 
the leaves, getting them ready for market. I noticed a 
number of five and six-horse tandem teams plowing, and 
thought what a waste of labor this was. 

Arrived at Dole at 5 and then proceeded to hunt up a 
man named Strauss, a friend of a relative of mine in De- 
troit. On arriving at his house and finding he was not at 
home, was asked to wait and kept from going to sleep by 
the French conversation of the family. At 6 Mr. Strauss 
came in and after a few minutes' conversation we ad- 
journed to supper, this being the first time I had put my 
feet under a family table since leaving Ilkeston. After- 
ward he and I talked till 9 when the house being filled he 
insisted on taking me to a hotel and arranging for a bed. 
At 10 I bid him good-by and turned in. 

OCTOBER 11. After breakfast strolled down to the 
postoffice where I wrote a post card to Detroit, then in- 
spected the Notre Dame Cathedral, built more than 1700 
years ago. There were cannon balls embedded in the walls, 



140 DOLE 

fired by the Prussians in 1871. This is a very large church 
for the size of the town, and within are a number of fine 
paintings and altars. 

After this went on a little farther past the barracks 
where soldiers were cleaning horses, then by a school named 
after Joan of Arc. Across the stream, while standing on 
the bridge, an up-to-date milk wagon passed me. This 
consisted of a small cart drawn by a donkey and loaded 
with a few cans, and the milkman was a young girl. 

Crossing the stream to the right was a small lock and 
I stood for some time watching the operation of putting 
through a boat. "While it was still in the lock a grand- 
mother, mother and group of children came up loaded 
down with bread and other provisions. It is evident they 
are not afraid of microbes in this country, as the bread 
had no covering around it. They all climbed into the boat 
and the mother proceeded to chop up some kindling wood. 
The last I saw of the outfit the oldest boy was leading a 
small pair of mules, the father standing in the boat, grand- 
mother at the rudder, two kids playing with a small wheel 
and the mother making the fire in the stove on deck, the 
stove not being any larger than a minute. 

I then wandered through the market and on to the sta- 
tion, stopping for a few minutes to inspect a monument in 
memory of those who had lost their lives in defense of 
Dole in 1871. 

At the station I wrote a few minutes and then at 11 :30 
started for Mouchard. The train ran slowly, didn't reach 
the town till 12 :30. Having eaten a lunch on board the 
train I lost no time starting out to explore the village, for 
that was all it was, a small place probably 500 population. 
I walked along the one village street and beyond into the 
country for probably a mile, stopping for a few minutes to 
watch a man and boy saw wood, one at either end of the 
buck saw. A little farther on a woman and her daughter 
were carding wool. At the end of my walk I sat down and 
did a little writing. While sitting there two outfits passed 
me, both being small low-wheeled wagons, one drawn by 
a donkey and the other drawn by an ox. A man and 
woman occupied the first, two women the latter. As I was 



MOUCHARD 141 

sitting here I wished I could stay for a week, and if I only 
had some reading matter I would have done so. At the 
time there was hardly a breath of air stirring, the sun was 
shining bright and warm and the sky had that beautiful 
hazy appearance. 

To the right was the town and to the left were high 
wooded hills, but I had to desist and return as my train 
was soon due. 

On my way back I met a young girl driving a couple of 
cows, knitting as she went along. Making a detour I en- 
tered a small church and viewed the interior for a few 
minutes. This was quite a contrast to the huge structures 
of Paris. 

On arrival at the station I handed the agent three francs 
to pay for a third-class ticket for Pontalier, only to find out 
after some trouble that the train I was intending to take 
carried only first and second-class passengers, and that I 
would have to hand over an additional franc and a half. 
Even then if I had not left my wits wool gathering out in 
the peaceful country I might have partly eased this blow, 
as the train on which I had come from Dole was only a 
half hour ahead, and I had noticed this train I had in- 
tended to take passed it farther along, but I was dazed 
and could hardly think, and as in a dream handed out the 
additional iy 2 francs, 30 cents. 

Some would have enjoyed the luxurious carriage in 
which I had the privilege of traveling, but I could not rally 
so readily from the shock, although finally realizing what 
I owed to the unborn generations, who might peruse this 
narrative, I pulled myself together and started to observe 
and store away my observations in my memory. 

Immediately on leaving Mouchard we started to climb 
and were soon among the mountains, which were covered 
with spruce and pine, part of the time traveling along a 
ledge overhanging an abyss, and anyone who was timid 
could have imagined catastrophes of all kinds. 

This was an hour's run, and just as we were approach- 
ing the end of our journey, when with my usual quickness 
of rising to the top after being plunged deep into the 
slough of despond, the conductor came around examining 



142 BERNE 

tickets, in order to see who would be leaving the train, and 
on handing him mine, he turned it over several times, 
took out a book and looked over it, and then in a most mat- 
ter of fact tone of voice said, "Un franc." 

I shudder to think of the consequences if I were pos- 
sessed of a violent temper, but fortunately for this man 
the everlasting sweetness of my kindly disposition pre- 
vented me from throwing him off the train. Of course the 
fact of his being larger and heavier than I did not act as 
a deterrent. As nothing can happen to us that is not even- 
tually for our good, so with me, as I did not succumb 
from shock under the force of this last cool blow. 

Now I feel that I am prepared for the very worst that 
can befall me on this trip. On arriving at Pontalier, there 
being a train for Berne within half an hour, I boarded the 
same and went through to my destination. 

The view along the way until at Neufchatel, situated on 
the largest lake in Switzerland, was simply superb. A 
never-ending panorama of mountains and valleys, and for 
considerable distance as we approached the city, and for 
some miles beyond, all the hillsides as far as could be seen 
were covered with one solid vineyard. 

Arrived at Berne at 7 :30. Finished up my especially 
hardluck day, setting down my grip for a minute while 
looking for some information, only to have it disappear. 
But why dwell on this! Luckily, I always carry my 
papers, etc., in my clothes. 

I blame this whole day to having cut my fingernails on 
Friday. I then had to walk around the city until after 9 
before I finally located a lodging and quickly retired, not 
without some misgivings that the house would burn down. 

OCTOBER 12. After breakfast struck out to see some- 
thing of the town. The first thing I ran into was a great 
outside market beside the Notre Dame Church, and what 
attracted my attention especially was an old woman sawing 
wood. 

After wandering around the market awhile I went to the 
rear of the great church where is a kind of garden, the 
three sides of which are enclosed by a low wall and over- 



BERNE 143 

look a part of the town, 150 feet down. A splendid view 
is obtained of the lower part of the city. Several peaks 
can be seen from here on a clear day, but it being a misty 
day I didn't see these. 

I then went on to the postoffice where I wrote a few 
cards and then to the Gwer Museum. As this was only a 
small place I didn't spend much time there, but there was 
a very interesting collection of plaster paris work besides 
a number of stamped leather articles. 

The next place was the very fine parliament building 
which was a grand work of art. It comes nearer, on a 
smaller scale of course, to the splendor of our Capitol build- 
ing in "Washington than any of the European buildings. 
A grand stairway leads up to the first floor where the dif- 
ferent committee rooms are situated. An elderly gentle- 
man and his wife were just ahead of me. Later I found 
that he was a native of Detroit and they were recently from 
California. 

We were shown the different rooms by a guide and every- 
thing is gotten up regardless. On finishing I sat for some 
time admiring the beauty of the interior of the great dome. 

I then went into the garden near the church. A cog- 
wheel railway runs up and down for the benefit of the 
people living ,on the lower level. Near here was the 
Dresastigkeits Kirche. Down either aisle seven great mot- 
tled marble pillars form six arches, and these arches and the 
walls and ceiling were gilded and painted in a splendid 
manner. I would advise anyone coming to Berne not to 
miss this place. 

After this I went to my lodging for dinner. The first 
thing that attracts the stranger in this city is the pecu- 
liar way in which the buildings are put up. All above 
the ground floor is built out flush with the sidewalk, form- 
ing a covered passage ; over the latter the building is up- 
held by arches. 

Another peculiar thing is the absence of autos. I have 
only seen one so far. In the Parliament Square are the 
Town Hall and a couple of great banks. All these build- 
ings, in fact most of the finer buildings, are built of a gray 
sandstone. 



144 BERNE 

After dinner I noticed the sun was trying to come out, 
and shortly afterward he came out in all his glory. I 
passed by a great church, where the open market had been 
in operation. A number of old dames were at work clean- 
ing up, assisted by a man with a sprinkler cart attached 
to his back. 

I then went across the river over a high bridge. The 
river appeared almost like a canyon. I stood some time in 
the center admiring the view up and down. Across the 
bridge I came upon an important historical museum, but 
didn't go in as it was not open. 

Coming back and drifting into a side street I happened 
to notice a sign, "American Consulate." I went up only 
to find that no one was in. 

After this I took a long walk through the main part into 
the residential district, passing a fine hospital and a great 
number of splendid residences. Coming at last to a kind 
of mill I stepped in to see what was going on, finding the 
men busy making wine casks. Near by was a storehouse, 
and as I came past men were unloading cheese from a 
wagon. These were about ten inches high and three feet 
in circumference. 

After continuing along until my feet began to hurt, I 
turned back to the hospital where there was a seat and a 
nice sunny nook. I sat down and let the sun soak in. 
After this strolled down to the main business street and 
went slowly along looking at the sights. Stopped in at a 
bazaar and did some purchasing. 

On arriving at my lodging sat down, and did a little 
writing and watched the inmates, and then after supper 
took a walk, then wrote and tried to converse with a man 
that could speak a little English. I learned among other 
things that he worked for nine cents an hour. At 9 :30 
went to bed. 

OCTOBER 13. After breakfast, wrote a letter. At 
10 :30 was interrupted by a service. An organ was brought 
into the room and a few hymns were sung, after which an 
address was given in German. This was fine, as the 
speaker spoke right from the bat, as though he knew what 



BERNE 145 

he was talking about. After this I took a long, fast walk, 
as it was misty and quite cold. I went across the river in 
a different direction from yesterday, passed a number of 
fine residences built in all styles of old architecture. These 
were mostly built of a light gray sandstone and had a great 
number of painted French windows. I was on the lookout 
for an English church, passed and examined a couple, but 
they were not what I wanted. At last I came to a small 
one, which bore an inscription in German, "Weslyn 
Chapel. ' ' The service being over, I went inside and found 
out that there would be a service in the evening. I then 
went back to my lodgings, had dinner and afterward took a 
long walk out past a soldiers ' barracks, and watched them 
monoeuvre for awhile, then went on farther out, down a 
beautiful country road bordered on either side by splendid 
old trees, until I came to a great common. Here a num- 
ber of ball games were in operation and I watched the 
play for awhile. Then I returned to my lodgings where I 
stayed until supper, afterward going to the church I had 
located in the morning, where I heard a very good service. 
Although it was in German I enjoyed it very much, after- 
ward going home and to bed. 

m OCTOBER 14. After breakfast went down to the sta- 
tion and started out at 8 for Lucerne, taking three hours 
for the trip. This was certainly very interesting. Most 
of the time the sun was shining brightly and a good view 
was obtained. It seemed like one long street with great 
hills on all sides. Every foot of available land was either 
in grass or planted in vegetables. Dairying must be the 
only industry and everybody works, father and all. "Women 
must have equal rights here, as they were working with 
scythe, fork and spade, right alongside of the men. Noth- 
ing appears to be wasted, all land being utilized. At one 
point I saw a boy and girl hauling fertilizer with a cow 
hitched to a small cart. At another point a man, engaged 
in repairing a road, had a horse and cow hitched to a 
wagon. But above everything else, the houses are a delight 
to look upon, some built entirely of wood and others stone 
part of the way and then finished with wood. They all 



146 LUCERNE 

ran up to a peak and some numbered five stories, although 
the roof on either side reached almost to the ground. They 
were all large, some being of vast dimensions, looking like 
great barns, and that was partly what they were, as house, 
stable, barn, etc., were all under the same roof. 

Arrived at Lucerne at 11, and started right out. Just a 
little way from the station was the shore of a lake, on the 
arm of which Lucerne is situated. I rambled along until 
I came to a very fine church, which I entered and in- 
spected, and although not large it had a beautiful interior, 
being finished in white marble, colored marble being used 
for the altars. A little farther along was another fine 
church. This had a number of splendid marble altars. 
Just to the back was a great hill with a cog railway run- 
ning up to an amusement resort at the top, but this was 
closed. I then wandered to a great open bazaar or market. 
Everything imaginable was for sale here. I bought some 
post cards and a little further on, coming to a postoffice, 
I went in and wrote and posted these. After dinner I 
continued along the side of this hill for considerable dis- 
tance, then across the stream climbed up a very high hill 
to what looked to be a section of a great wall. It was 
300 feet long and had a high tower at either end. I sat 
down here and observed the beautiful scenery for awhile, 
then back to the Cathedral of St. Leger. This is a large 
church and is beautifully finished in white marble, the 
altars, of which there are quite a number, are finished in 
brass. Outside all around is a burying ground. 

I then took a stroll to the end of the quay, which is lined 
with great hotels. Among others, I noticed the Hotel 
Montana. I then turned back and went around the other 
side of the quay, passed a station and came upon twenty- 
five different propositions for separating the unwary from 
their money, and watched different performances for some 
time. I could hardly keep the tears out of my eyes as the 
organ attached to one of the merry-go-rounds played the 
same old tune that the German street band played so often 
in Detroit. 

Lucerne is a city of about 35,000 population and is sit- 
uated on the lake of the same name. If you were to say 



ZURICH 147 

that it was built and kept up by tourists you would not be 
far wrong. 

At 4 I started for Zurich, passing on the way a number 
of interesting towns. At one place a very fine church 
could be seen from the train and what appeared to be a 
large lake was seen on the right. We followed the shore 
of this lake to a place called Zug, which was quite a large 
town. "We next stopped at Baar. A three-mile tunnel 
was passed through before we reached the next place. An- 
other long tunnel before Horgen was reached. Then came 
Thalwill. We now appeared to be up a great height and 
following along beside a large lake. The next stop was 
Zurich, which appeared to be a fine city. The country be- 
tween Lucerne and Zurich is different to that between 
Berne and Lucerne, inasmuch as it does not appear to have 
many farms, in fact, a person might say at least one-half 
of the distance is a continuous town or village, and all the 
rest one great lawn, mostly covered with trees of some 
kind. The grass appears to be kept mowed down and the 
strength of the land is kept up by a coating of fertilizer. 
The whole distance the scenery was as beautiful as a dream. 
At Thalwill we appeared to have risen to a great height, 
just being able to see the lake away below, then we grad- 
ually came down until we arrived at Zurich and were 
almost on a level. It took me some time to locate my 
lodgings. 

After waiting for a few minutes I was fixed up with a 
bed, had supper, then wrote for awhile. I was interrupted 
in this by a service conducted by a missionary. This con- 
sisted of a song and address and prayer. The address 
was interrupted a couple of times by one of the inmates 
and he was finally ejected. At 9 I turned in. There were 
twenty-five beds in one room, but this did not matter, as 
there was plenty of fresh air, two sides of the room being 
almost entirely taken up with windows. 

_ OCTOBER 15. After breakfast started out to view the 
city although the prospect was not bright as there was a 
heavy fog. Within a few minutes I passed grounds at- 
tached to the military barracks and amused myself for a 



148 ZURICH 

few minutes watching the stunts of fifty recruits. They 
were jumping, climbing walls, ladders, etc. After this I 
continued on until I came to what appeared to be one of 
the main streets, and along on the sidewalks for severaL 
blocks was an open market. 

This city is a complete contrast to Berne, being more 
modern in every respect. It has a population of 200,000, 
estimated, and is the largest city in Switzerland. Going to 
the end of the street I came to a station, went in and 
warmed up a little, writing some in the meantime. Stayed 
here until 11, thinking that the fog might lift, but it never 
lifted. 

At that time I took a long walk, passing through a park 
along the quay, and back to my lodgings. After dinner I 
went to the station, stopping on the way in a small park. 
I sat down and watched the crowd for a little while and 
did some writing. I then went to the Landis Museum. 

This was splendid, something altogether out of the ordi- 
nary, having a very large historical collection, all kinds of 
old relics. There must have been 200 cases filled with rem- 
nants of tools, arms, etc., picked or dug up. Then came a 
great collection of arms and armor and after that another 
collection of uniforms, running back a hundred and fifty 
years. 

The finest of all, though, were about a dozen rooms of 
the 16th century. Everything was there, even to the walls, 
windows and doors. Then there were quite a number of 
old pieces of furniture, a few paintings, etc. I am glad I 
hunted this building up. 

After this I took a long walk along the river to where 
it widens out to form the Zurich Sea, for that is what the 
lake is called. Coming along the quay a short distance 
I sat down to rest a little and let the sun soak in and as I 
am seldom idle wrote in my diary in the meantime. 

On my way back stopped a few minutes to watch a 
couple of gangs of men at work. In each case four men 
took hold of a large length of log and used it as a pile 
driver in driving scantlings down into the river bottom 
to form a breakwater. 

It looked like a lot of wasted effort to me. At this point 



ZURICH 149 

are a number of great hotels and the Grand Stadt Theater 
is in the center. The beautiful lake, over which a large 
number of boats were scudding, on the other side resi- 
dences and villas and further back great hills and still 
further several of the highest peaks in Switzerland— a 
beautiful view. After admiring it for some time I went 
on to the end of the quay, where I stopped and watched a 
gang of men wheeling sand out of barges. 

These men were bareheaded and stripped to the waist, 
and their bodies exposed were burnt as brown as mahog- 
any. I then turned back and went around the other side, 
passing the Town Hall. This is a beautiful building and 
unique in the fact that it is built of pressed brick. The 
front center is round like a pavilion and at the front cor- 
ners .are two fine towers. A little further on is the Enge 
Church. This occupies a fine site, the finest in the city. 
From the top of the high hill, and from the bottom up, 
the hill is terraced, showing a fine effect. I stood for a 
few minutes admiring the view, which was grand, and then 
as it was getting late started back downtown. 

After quite a walk came into the Bahn Hof Strasse, near 
where it separated from the quay, and from there to the 
station. This is the main street and is a dream. All 
along are hotels, cafes, bank offices and the principal retail 
stores. 

"We think in America that we know how to attract cus- 
tomers, by fine stores with grand fronts, etc., but are not in 
it with these people. I did not see even in Paris a finer 
lot of fronts or windows. One store especially deserves a 
description. This appeared to be a new one and occupied 
a corner lot. It was built of glass and a very pretty light 
grey sandstone but what made it stand out from all others 
was the fact that it was nearly all windows, the ground 
floor being immense plate glass windows, with partition of 
stone between. These columns continued up to the top and 
with others formed the partition between, the windows 
above being smaller with old-fashioned panes. Taken as 
a whole it made a very attractive appearance. 

From the station I went on to my lodging and after 
supper wrote awhile, and then read a copy of the New 



150 BASLE 

York Salvation Army paper, handed me by one of the in- 
mates. Then went to bed. 

OCTOBER 16. After breakfast took one last long walk 
and then went to the station where I wrote till it was time 
to take the train for Basle. On the way we stopped at 
several small towns, also went through a tunnel one and 
one-half miles in length. At a place called Slacking the 
Rhine was seen for the first time. At Pratteln I saw a 
young woman sawing wood, also a sign, " Heinz 57 Vari- 
eties. ' ' 

Arrived at Basle at 12. This stretch of country of sixty- 
two miles was one grand panorama, mountains all the way, 
and then there was the usual intensive cultivation of the 
land, although unlike between Lucerne and Zurich there 
was less grass land. All the way along they were plowing, 
and sundry and various were the outfits. One consisted 
of one horse and three cows. Imagine how degraded that 
poor horse must have felt, but most cases two or four cows 
were used. The plow was something similar to those seen 
at Waterloo, a double affair, one part being up while the 
other was in the ground and this allows them to go back 
and forth in the same furrow. "Women as well as men 
handle plows. It must have been a ticklish proposition 
plowing along the side of these hills. It appears as though 
a plow could hardly stick on. 

On arriving at Basle I spent the time till 1 looking up 
my German route and locating the Salvation Army hotel. 

After dinner I took a seat on the banks of the Rhine. 
I could hardly realize that this was the famous river of 
history. Took particular notice of some of the houses on 
the other bank. One especially, directly across from where 
I was sitting, was like those in the country. As I sat here 
it was so beautiful and warm I wanted to remain till night, 
but I had to get up and see something of the town, expect- 
ing to leave in the morning. 

At 2 :30 I pulled myself together and started back across 
the river to see something of the city. First thing I ran 
into, the special attraction of the city, was the Rathause 
(Town Hall). This was built in 1600 and is certainly 



BASLE 151 

worth looking at. The whole front is beautifully painted 
and gilded, and besides there are a number of paintings 
describing war scenes. There is a small gilt steeple in the 
center and a high tower at the end and the sloping roof 
is covered with different colored tiles. Within the great 
yard the walls are decorated somewhat similar to the out- 
side. 

The next great sight is the Munster Cathedral. This is 
old and quite large and has two very high steeples on 
either front corner. It appears to be built of red sand- 
stone. In the rear is a small park which overlooks the 
Rhine. This must be 150 feet above the river. A grand 
view is obtained from this point. At one side of the church 
is a cloister and all around the inside of these are monu- 
ments and tablets. ■ A little farther on I came upon St. 
Elizabeth's Church. This building is modern and built of 
grey sandstone. 

Just across the street there was a bookstore, and glanc- 
ing in the window I discovered an old London print of the 
William Tell scene, and at the bottom of the picture was a 
short history of the time when the Swiss earned their inde- 
pendence. A little farther on there w&s a paper stand, and 
among other papers was a copy of the Cleveland Plain 
Dealer. This contained the Katzen jammer Kids. After 
this I went to the station and did some writing. 

I have discovered what fills my heart with joy, and that 
is that all over Germany fourth-class tickets are sold on 
the railways, and as I expect to travel more than 1,000 
miles in this country, this means something. Just across 
from the corner of the station is the postoffice, which is a 
very large building, and would do credit to a city five 
times as large. 

I took another stroll, coming to my lodging at 5 :30, sat 
down for a few minutes, and finding a man who could talk 
English I had some conversation with him till supper. 
After supper I wrote awhile and then went to bed. 

OCTOBER 17. After breakfast strolled down to the 
station where I watched the crowd until 8, when I started 
for Strassburg. Up to Mulhauson the country is varied 



152 STRASSBURG 

considerable, and is mostly flat, and is about equally di- 
vided between plowed land and grass, and on the hills 
grapes are planted. There are quite a number of small 
forests which are carefully cared for. 

We crossed a road at one point, and just a short distance 
away were four old women dressed in glaring red petti- 
coats wheeling barrows loaded down with brushwood. On 
the hill to the left was what appeared to be a ruin. 

Colman was the next large town. In the compartment 
in which I am traveling there is a sign that reads thus: 
"Seats for eleven and standing room for twelve." 

The next large town was Schettsteadt. At this place we 
made quite a long stop for some reason or other. At one 
place I saw an old lady driving a yoke of cows attached to 
a wagon loaded with fertilizer. All along the way were 
men and women plowing and harrowing with all kinds of 
nondescript outfits — a horse and cow, two cows, two oxen, 
one horse and a cow and oxen. One thing I could not help 
noticing was the absence of farm buildings. 

At Einstein a one-horse street car was waiting at the 
station. Arrived at Strassburg at 12. 

Generally speaking, the distance of ninety miles was a 
flat plain, probably four miles from the Rhine. After din- 
ner I started out to see the town. 

The first sight I noticed was the floating laundries. 
These were covered barges anchored to the bank of a small 
stream on which there must have been at least 100 women 
washing clothes. After watching these for awhile I went 
on until I came to a great cathedral. I had read of this 
building, and it was certainly worth making a trip to see. 
Large, tremendous and immense are the kind of words to 
use in describing it. It occupies a block, and it must be 
150 feet in height. There is a great tower, another prob- 
ably 100 feet above this, and a steeple seventy-five feet 
higher up. I went up to the top of the tower on which 
there is a platform and a grand view of the town is ob- 
tained from this. 

I then walked on until I came to a smaller church in 
which a funeral service was being held, and as it was rain- 
ing hard, in fact it had been ever since I struck the town, 
I went in and heard the service. 



STRASSBURG 153 

The dead man must have been a great general as the 
church was filled with officers wearing beautiful uniforms. 
After a wait of some time the minister came out and con- 
ducted the service. Afterwards two or three of the great 
men of the town made speeches, I presume eulogizing the 
dead man. I got mighty tired before they finished. 

Coming out I next spied a university and got a glimpse 
of the entrance hall, which was splendid. Then the next 
was a Church of St. John. This is a fine modern building 
of light sandstone. Afterwards I came upon St. Peter's 
Cathedral, a fine new building of red sandstone. There 
was a splendid dome and the interior, which was fine, con- 
tained a number of altars and splendid paintings. The 
next building I came upon was the postoffice and if they 
have such a grand building in Berlin they will be doing 
well. It is a fine new building of light stone and occupies 
a whole square. 

The next was a collection of five buildings, the finest of 
all being the palace. The others were a library and state 
buildings. I then made my way back to the station, pass- 
ing along the main business street, on which were some 
fine buildings, one of these a grand department store, which 
I went into and wandered around on the ground floor. It 
was splendidly gotten up. 

At the station I looked over time-tables and then went to 
the ticket window, but no one could speak English. Finally 
I located a hotel runner who could, and got the much 
needed information in regard to the train in the morning. 

I then went some distance away and struck by accident 
a fine building to get my supper. After eating I stayed 
here awhile and watched the crowd. I hope now to say 
good-bye to the centime until I arrive in Italy. It w T as 
very handy, being easily figured, as five centimes equal one 
cent, while here five pfennigs equal one and a fifth of a 
cent. This requires a considerable amount of gray matter 
to translate from one to the other. After this I went to 
my lodgings and to bed. 

OCTOBER 18. Arose at 6:30. After breakfast went 
down to the station where I boarded a train for Heidel- 



154 KARLSRUHE 

berg at 8. At Karlsruhe I had to change. Having to wait 
for more than an hour saw a little of the town, going as 
far as Kaiser Strasse, the main street of the city. This 
is a fine wide avenue, apparently longer than the usual 
run. There is a fine park right near the station. 

Although I had bought a fourth-class ticket through to 
Heidelberg, with the exception of the first ten miles I rode 
third class. The country we passed was similar to that be- 
tween Basil and Strassburg. When we neared the foothills 
the land presented the same form of intensive cultivation. 

Arriving at Heidelberg at 2, I was busily employed until 
dark seeing something of the place. The first thing was 
the University, but I would have passed right by the place 
— it is such a very common looking affair. On the other 
hand the University Library is a splendid modern build- 
ing. The Cathedral of St. Peter came after the Library. 
It is a large church with a great steeple; next is the fine 
Heidelberg Kirchen. This is a very old church and is 
entirely surrounded by small stands, a kind of bazaar. 
The next would require an artist to describe. It is the 
ruins of the old Heidelberg Castle. Most of the city 
covers space between the high hills and near the river. The 
castle was more than a thousand feet above the street 
level and was unlike anything I had yet seen in this line, 
being cut off apparently from civilization, as the approach 
and surroundings were covered with a heavy growth of 
trees. All around the wall of the courtyard were the 
statues of ancient emperors, kings, etc. There were also 
battlements and towers galore. The view up and down 
the valley was wonderful. 

After finishing here I went along the trail that led still 
higher up to a hotel and some dwelling houses, the highest 
of these being about two thousand feet from the street. I 
could not help thinking that it must have cost something 
to get the material for these houses up here. By the time 
I had finished and come down it was dark. 

I hunted up a lodging and had supper. At this place 
there was a woman who could speak English, and I had 
quite a long conversation with her. After supper I wrote 
a few cards and then went to bed. 



HEIDELBEBG 155 

OCTOBER 19. After breakfast went right down to the 
station to take the train for Darmstadt. The street-clean- 
ing brigade was at work along the way. At the station I 
wrote until 7, when I boarded a train. The first large 
town was Frederischfeld. Near the track was a great 
cathedral. There were also a great number of houses with 
very sharp, peaked roofs. 

At Ladenburg from the station could be seen an old 
looking church with two odd looking steeples. A high 
flagpole with red and yellow stripes, like a barber pole, was 
standing at one end of the station. "What looked like the 
tower of an old castle was perched up on a high hill back 
of the town and a little farther on another one of these 
towers. 

A number got on at this place and one who was dressed 
like a preacher. Shortly after we started he took a piece 
of dry bread out of his pocket and had breakfast. It was 
10 o'clock before we reached Darmstadt. It had begun to 
jrain shortly after we started and it was still at it when I 
got off the train, but I left the warm station, which is a 
brand new, grand affair, and went about my business of 
seeing something of the town. The station seemed to be 
on the outskirts of the town as it was quite a walk down to 
the center to the Palace of the Grand Duke Ludwig of 
Hesse. This was built in 1720, and was quite a large 
building, although very common looking. 

In a small square is an immense statue of Ludwig, one 
time Grand Duke of Hesse, and a little farther on is the 
Ludwig Platz, a great square, with a statue of Ludwig IV., 
and directly facing is the palace of the Grand Duke, who 
is the grandson of Queen Victoria and son of the beloved 
Princess Alice who forfeited her life by insisting upon 
kissing her child who was dying of diphtheria. The place 
was built in 1720 and has splendid grounds surrounding it. 
On the right is the Market Platz, a great open place that is 
full of all kinds of vegetables, fruits and breadstuffs. From 
the windows of the palace they could look out and choose 
a cabbage for dinner. On the right is the Landes Museum. 
This is a fine modern building. It was closed so I did not 
go through. After going through the market took a long 



156 DARMSTADT 

walk, trying to find a place where I could get my shoes 
cobbled as one of the soles was loose. I found three places, 
but they were all busy. 

I then came to the Church of St. Ludwig. It certainly 
is a queer looking church, just like an immense dome that 
had been placed on the ground instead of a building. It 
was built of cement blocks. On entering I saw a bridal 
couple standing at the altar and decided to remain and see 
the ceremony. In a few minutes the priest came in and 
performed the service, which in all must have lasted 
twenty minutes. The church was about as round as it 
could be. About ten feet from the wall were twenty-eight 
great cement pillars, twenty feet high. These support the 
great dome which is a succession of circles that get smaller 
until the peak is reached. There was a large main altar 
with two smaller ones on either side. There were fourteen 
white marble groups of the Cross, beside two large ones of 
the Savior at the Cross and another of Him at the Tomb. 
Near by in a fine park were two magnificent buildings, the 
first a Russian chapel, and that reminded me of the fine 
churches of St. Petersburg. It was very gorgeous, having 
three towers like minarets. The other was a fine new 
church, the notable thing about it being the tower, this 
having five queer looking affairs at the top looking like 
windows in the roof. 

I then took a long walk back to the station and looked 
for some post cards and did not find them. Just as I was 
going down to the train I saw what I wanted and buying 
one, addressed and posted it to Detroit. At 2 started for 
Frankfort; had to stand up most of the way. Flat and 
uninteresting country. There were several small forests 
and a number of orchards, and as we neared Frankfort 
lots of market gardens. Just as we got to the station I 
made inquiries and got some information in regard to 
trains. I thought I would see if I could locate the Salva- 
tion Army hotel, and spent nearly two hours trying to do 
so and finally gave up in disgust. Just at 5 when I had 
finished this hopeless quest, I had a chance to rest my poor 
feet while having my shoes repaired. After this started 
out and found lodgings at 8, but even then not what I 



FRANKFORT ON MAIN 157 

wanted. I went into a milk shop and made my supper of 
a large glass of milk and some bread and cake. At 9 I 
finally got to bed. 

OCTOBER 20. After breakfast I walked a few blocks, 
coming npon the Rathause. This was a very large, splen- 
did building. Within the great yard were a number of 
statues of great men. After this I went a little farther 
coming out on the Kaiser Strass, This is a main business 
street and a splendid wide thoroughfare, paved with 
asphalt. A short distance along came to a small park like 
a square and within this is a Bismarck monument, being a 
group — a colossal standing figure of Bismarck and behind 
him a warrior mounted. 

On the other side is a splendid opera house. At either 
front corner are figures in niches of Goethe and Schiller. 
In the great lobby of the station where I stayed some time, 
writing and observing the crowd, I looked over a large 
plan of the streets and main buildings but there was no 
church I cared to go to. I was sitting in the waiting room 
and was amused by the pompous appearance of the train 
caller. He was very much like our own station callers. 

In the distinction of his appearance he looked like a gen- 
eral. Any thinking person is led to almost believe that 
every one is some kind of an officer as the officials wear 
a uniform while on the train. I could not help noticing 
how plentiful labor appears . to be. At small stations 
where with us one man would do the work, here there are 
at least half a dozen — one man who has the art of doing 
nothing down to a science and the other five help him to do 
it. There are tables scattered all over the room and a 
buffet at one side. 

A cab driver came in wandering around and begged a 
piece of sugar of one of the patrons, who had not used this 
in his coffee. At 12 I went out and seeing a crowd at one 
side of the station went over to see what it meant. Stand- 
ing in front of what looked like a private entrance was a 
grand auto with crowns on top of a lamp. Taking it for 
granted that someone of note was expected I waited a few 
moments and was rewarded by a partial view of the Grand 



158 FRANKFORT 

Duke of Hesse. After this I strolled back, went to my lodg- 
ings and had dinner, which consisted of a large glass of 
hot milk and part of a loaf of bread. I then strolled a few 
blocks coming upon the great Dom Cathedral. This is a 
large old church with a very unique steeple. Coming 
down a short street I came out upon the main quay and 
went along the river for quite a distance. The Main here 
is quite a good sized stream. 

I then crossed the river and strolled along the poorer 
section, coming upon another church. This being open I 
went in. It was just an ordinary appearing place with 
several fine paintings back of the pulpit. After this I 
went back across the river to the main street. I then went 
through a beautiful park, coming out at the Grand Opera 
House, which is in the center of the opera platz. Just at 
the end of the park opposite the opera is an equestrian 
statue of "William I. 

On reaching the opera noticed two buildings to the left, 
went over to investigate them, thinking they were palaces, 
only to find that both were used as banks and office build- 
ings. They certainly do have some beautiful buildings in 
this country. I then went back to the station. Just cross- 
ing from the left of the station is another grand opera, the 
Opera Schuman. As it had again started to rain I went 
into the station and rested up a little. On the main street 
I noticed a familiar name, "Werner & Co., tailors." I 
stayed in the station until 6, writing and watching the peo- 
ple, then went out and got something to eat, back to the 
station where I stayed until 8. I then struck out for my 
lodgings. 

While sitting in the station I couldn't help thinking of 
the hard condition of the very poor in this country, as 
wages are small and the cost of living quite high. A few 
feet of where I was sitting was a table at which three of the 
waiters were eating their supper. Just then a poor old cab 
driver sat down and munched part of a loaf. I could not 
help noting the longing looks he cast at the food the 
waiters were consuming, which was sliced bologna, potato 
salad and bread. At 9 I went home to bed. 



MAYENCE 159 

OCTOBEE 21. Rose at 6, had some difficulty in find- 
ing my way down to the exit, only to find the door locked, 
there being no one up. Luckily, another man who knew 
the place, followed me down and then managed to rustle 
a key. As I always give myself plenty of time, I managed 
to get to the station in time for my train. Both here and 
at Heidelberg, I had an old-fashioned Dutch bed, a feather 
tick as a mattress and another feather tick for bed clothes. 
At 7, started for Mayence, arriving there at 8 :30, and then 
started out to see something of the town. "Within a couple 
of blocks of the station, looking to the left, I saw a great 
dome and on investigating, found it was Christ Church, a 
fairly large building with a tremendous dome. The 
church was not open. A little farther along was St. Peter 's 
Church. This was a very old, fair sized church with a 
peculiar looking tow T er on either front corner. The in- 
terior was fine, with grand pillars and arches and the beau- 
tiful painted ceiling and three splendid altars. From the 
main altar was a canopy, upheld by four colored marble 
pillars, and the other two were partly supported by the 
same kind of pillars. Near here was a fine modern build- 
ing used as a seminary. A little farther along, was the 
Town Hall, being a collection of up-to-date buildings. 
Then eclipsing everything was the great Dom Cathedral. 
This is very large and massive, having a number of great 
towers fore and aft. The interior shows the signs of age. 
Nothing striking about it but a few fine paintings and the 
beautiful stained windows. I then went through the mar- 
ket place, coming upon still another church — St. Chris- 
topher. This is a small building and surmounted by a 
great tower and partly built around with houses. Has a 
very poor interior with the exception of the stained glass 
windows. A little farther along I came out upon that 
noble stream, the Rhine, and walked along the quay for 
some distance, turning off at the place where the tower of 
an old castle was standing. This was surrounded by 
houses and also used as a tenement. Near here was an- 
other fine building, Stadt House (a museum). This not 
being open, I continued on, back through the station, 
passed through the main part of the town. For a city of 



160 BINGEN 

100,000, its appearance was that of being asleep. Passed 
a collection of buildings which were used for military 
purposes, and near the station was the Mayence Cathedral, 
an old, dilapidated affair, with two conical-shaped towers, 

I then went to the station and just had a few min- 
utes to spare, which I spent in writing. Started for 
Bingen at 12, arriving there at 1 o'clock. Immediately 
on coming out of the station the most wonderful pano- 
rama of my trip was presented. Right on the bank of 
the river and across was a great hill sloping down to the 
water's edge, and from just a few feet above the water 
up to the crest was a great checker board, consisting of 
thousands of small plots of ground under cultivation. I 
stood at one place and counted twenty-eight patches, one 
above another, and they extended around a bend of the 
river, when they were lost to view. 

I had stopped off here just because of the association in 
the old third reader I used as a boy — there was a piece of 
poetry on "Bingen on the Rhine." But I am mighty glad 
that I stopped off for the sake of the town itself. At the 
top of the hill was a great monument and just about half 
way up were the ruins of an old castle. 

After buying a ticket to Coblenz I went out on the plat- 
form and feasted my eyes till the train came along at 2. 
I then found out that this view continued along to a town 
called Boppart, about thirty-five miles away. At a few 
places along the way the same thing prevailed on our side 
of the river. I then had an opportunity to view this phe- 
nomenon at close range. All of these plots are like steps, 
being apparently blasted out of solid rock and built up 
at the outer edge. There was no soil in sight, vines being 
planted in beds of small broken pieces of rock. What 
struck me more than anything else was the tremendous 
labor involved in the care of this continuous vineyard. 

All the way to Coblenz, a distance of fifty miles, the 
train followed the bank of the river, this being shut in by 
hills the whole distance. 

Arrived at Coblenz at 4 and started out to see something 
of the city and incidentally hunt a lodging at the same 



COBLENZ 161 

time. I passed through the market and then came to a 
very large old church, St. Joseph's, went in and inspected. 
Just an ordinary interior. Went around a little farther 
and located a lodging, then kept going till I came to the 
Stathaus, a very old and poor looking building. Across 
from this was the Jesuit Church. Although not much to^ 
look at the interior was fine, there being several splendid 
altars. 

I then went on down to the Rhine and walked almost out 
in the country, passing some magnificent buildings. The 
University, a massive pile; next the Kaiser's palace. I am 
beginning to think he must have a palace in every town. 
After this I went back toward the city, coming out on what 
is called the Kaiser's Ring, which has at the entrance a 
barracks; a little farther on is another fine building used 
for state purposes and then came to a school. This is an 
old-fashioned building, having a number of very steep 
gable roofs, there being three or four stories in some of 
these. Then to the station where I had my supper, after- 
wards watching the crowd till 8, when I went to the lodg- 
ing only to find the place filled up and had to look around 
for another. I shall certainly carry away fine impressions 
of the Deutsche. Everywhere where their prices are 
plainly marked, landlords will not stick to them. On the 
outside of this place was a sign, "Bed and Breakfast, One 
Mark, ' ' and when I went in and asked the landlord he said 
one and one-half marks, but when I turned on my heels to 
go out he called me back and said that I could stay for the 
mark. At 9 I went to bed. 

OCTOBER 22. Arose at 7 and went down to have 
breakfast only to be held up for another five cents, as I 
would not argue the matter. Then went down to the sta- 
tion and bought my ticket for Bonn. Wrote and observed 
the crowd till 9, when I boarded the train. 

The country between here and Bonn was not as inter- 
esting as between Bingen and Coblenz. We were in the 
Rhine valley all the time but only part of this time the 
track ran along the bank. There was the same intensive 
cultivation of the land, and a great number of orchards. 



162 BONN 

In the same compartment were five peddlers, two with 
great packs of shirts, underwear, etc., and the others had 
a great basket affair hanging around their necks containing 
a large assortment of trinkets, besides a number of canes 
strapped together. 

Arrived at Bonn at 11, and as I intended leaving at 2, 
I lost no time in starting out to see something of the town. 
A plan of the city was hanging in the station and I thought 
I located the University all right, but after walking for an 
hour, I got back to the station. Starting again the first 
place I came upon was the Bonn Cathedral. This is quite 
a large church and has a beautiful interior, having a splen- 
did setting of stained glass windows. 

The next building of note was the Eathaus (Town Hall). 
This was a very common looking building. Then I came 
upon a building in front of which was a beautiful marble 
monument to "William I. I next came into the Kaiser 
Strasse, a fine wide street lined with trees. Following 
along this I at last came upon the University building. 
Near by was the Kaiser's palace and to the right a fine new 
chemistry building. Occupying several squares were the 
different buildings that make up the University. This is 
one of the most noted institutions in the world, and is 
where the Emperor's sons were educated. 

I then went back to the station and spent a few minutes 
I had left in eating some lunch. At 2 entrained for 
Cologne, arriving at 3. 

Along these twenty miles the track ran partly along the 
bank of the Rhine. There was a great deal of grain and 
sugar beets grown along this stretch. 

Arriving at Cologne I didn't have to spend much time 
hunting up the Dom Cathedral, this being the great attrac- 
tion here, as when I emerged from the station it was just 
across the way. The first thought that came to me as I 
had a view of this old noted edifice was its tremendousness, 
as it occupied a great square and its steeple appeared to 
reach the sky. The interior is simply magnificent, the 
main feature being the wonderful stained glass windows, 
the finest I have yet seen. After viewing the interior I 
came out and feasted my eyes on the outside of the build- 



COLOGNE 163 

ing. I then went on till I came to the Lutheran Church, 
St. Martin's. This is almost entirely surrounded by 
houses. The next church was just an ordinary looking 
building. 

I then took a long walk, following near a certain street 
car track for upwards of two miles. The streets were very 
narrow. At last I turned back, got lost once or twice, but 
finally I managed to get back to the station by 6 o'clock. 

After supper I wrote and watched the crowd for awhile, 
then went down to a locality where I had noticed lodgings 
advertised. At the first place I was turned down, but in the 
second I made connections by paying a few cents more 
than their advertised price. Went to bed at 9. 

OCTOBER 23. After spending the night in a room 
that I had at first thought had no windows, I afterwards 
discovered a small opening leading to the skylight in the 
roof. It rained most of the night and at intervals water 
dripped down on the bed and in the morning I discovered 
a section of plaster missing and another portion that ap- 
peared to be about to fall on the pillow. 

After breakfast I sat at the table some time as it was 
raining and I hated to go out, but at last I started out, and 
taking a long walk I at last came to St. Patrick's Church. 

This is a very old church, having a tower on either front 
corner and a small dome in the center, just an ordinary 
interior with the exception of some fine painted windows, 
and fourteen small but very good engravings of "All the 
Way to Calvary." 

Next I came upon St. Jerome's Church. This was 
modern, had quite a high steeple and the interior very 
beautiful. Had a number of gilded altars and splendid 
paintings. 

The next was St. Mauritius. This is a new church, 
crowned by a couple of grand steeples. The interior was 
charming, the specialty being a great number of columns, 
apparently of cement blocks, and having the appearance of 
a square pillar surrounded by a number of smaller round 
pillars built into them. The windows were of stained 
glass. I then returned to the Dom and went in again to 



164 DUSSELDORF 

look it over, as yesterday I was so tired I could not appre- 
ciate as I should. I counted 162 great columns and prob- 
ably missed some. These are massive and like those in 
St. Mauritius, and there must be all of fifty great stained 
glass windows. 

The building is all of 525 feet long, by 325 feet wide, 
and the top of the spire reaches more than 400 feet into 
the air. 

After this I went up to the portal of the Hohenzollern 
Bridge and took a view of the Rhine. This portal is the 
great gateway with statues on either side. 

I then took a last walk along the Rhine, and then back 
to the station where I ate and watched the crowd of work- 
men until it was time to take the train for Dusseldorf at 2. 
Arrived at the latter place at 3. 

We crossed to the east of the Rhine just before leaving 
the station and did not see the river again all the way to 
Dusseldorf. The same highly intensive cultivation of the 
land was in vogue. Mostly planted to sugar beets. 

On arriving at Dusseldorf the rain was coming down in 
chunks. I went into the waiting room and stayed until 4, 
writing and watching the crowd. As I was coming along 
from Cologne I could not help wondering who traveled 
first, second and third class, as at one time in the compart- 
ment with me there were nine men, all better dressed and 
more prosperous looking than I was. 

While I was sitting in the waiting room a young girl 
with a pail came along and cleaned up one of the chocolate 
machines, and the way she did go over that was a caution. 
I thought what a wonderful help in the furthering of the 
settlement of Northwest Canada about 100,000 of these 
people would be. 

At 4 I tore myself away from the warm waiting room and 
went out to hunt for a lodging and see something of the 
town. I kept this up until 6 :30, but found no place, and 
at last concluded to go over to Essen as it was not neces- 
sary for me to stay here over night. 

Mr. Strauss of Dole, had told me this place was some- 
thing like Detroit, and I agree with him, in so far as a 
great number of the streets run at right angles to each 
other. 



ESSEN 165 

One especially, called the Konig's Alee, is a grand boule- 
vard. A canal runs through the center and a fine walk 
and street on either side. I just entered one church, St. 
Martin's. Not very large, but having a fine interior. It' 
contained fourteen splendid paintings of "All the Way to 
Calvary. ' ' 

The Stadt Haus is a massive pile of red granite, cover- 
ing a whole block. I had a notion that this was a small 
town, but I found it to be a great city. Passing the post- 
office I went in and sent a card to Detroit. 

Got back to the station and boarded a train for Essen. 
As luck would have it I had to change at a small place on 
the way and it was 9 before I entered this town. I shall 
remember this place, the home of the Krupps, for some 
time. 

I located one lodging and on going in was insulted and 
very near assaulted before I could get out, and although I 
kept moving along until 12, I found nothing else, but high- 
class places, and I could not have stayed in any of these, 
even if I had cared to pay the price. 

At 12 I finally gave it up as a bad job and went into the 
station, determined to stick it out all night if necessary. 
As this ends the day, even if I am not in bed, I will say 
good-night. 

OCTOBER 24. At 1:30 the station was closed and I 
had to wander up and down in order to keep from freez- 
ing until 4. I shall certainly remember this town for 
awhile. At 5 I boarded a train for Bremen, arriving at 12. 
On the way down through the city I saw something of the 
great plant of the Krupp Company. The country between 
Essen and Bremen is altogether different from that along 
the Rhine, in that it was more rolling, and not so in- 
tensively cultivated, there being quite large fields of wheat 
and pasture lands, also there were a number of farm build- 
ings along the way. On arriving at Bremen, I got some- 
thing to eat and then started out to see a little of the town, 
and after traveling along a mile or two of back streets, 
came out upon a harbor and spent some time going along 
watching the loading and unloading of vessels. After this 



166 BREMEN 

I took another long walk, and at last brought up at the 
main part of the city. A great market was in operation, 
but the first object that took my attention was the fine old 
Rathaus. I went through a part of this building. Besides 
having a number of fine old paintings, there were a collec- 
tion of statues and some beautiful carved old furniture, 
and between the panels on the ceiling were upwards of 
forty paintings of old kings. After this I took a good 
look at the outside of the Dom Cathedral and Bourse, and 
then on the sights of a circus, for that was what it was 
called, that was in operation. There were eight different 
merry-go-rounds, besides a number of side-shows, and then 
there must have been a couple of hundred booths of all 
kinds where everything imaginable was being sold. I 
wandered around for quite a while and this did not do me 
any good for seeing so many people spending money, I 
could not resist the temptation and had to do the same. 
Got reckless and spent all of three cents for some chocolate. 
As I was now very tired I headed back for the station, had 
supper and stayed in the station until 8, and then went to 
lodgings near by, and turned in at 8 :30. I was somewhat 
disappointed in regard to this city. Knowing it to be a 
great port, I expected it would be more modern than it is. 

OCTOBER 25. After breakfast I went to the station, 
buying some provision for lunch on the train and wrote 
and took notice of the crowd 'until I boarded a train at 10 
for Hamburg. Toistedt was quite a town and on the side- 
track were two great guns from the Krupp 's at Essen. At 
this place a woman dressed in the typical costume of the 
country came in. She wore a very short voluminous skirt, 
tight-fitting waist, no hat, and her hair was done up in 
the old-fashioned way and parted in the center. 

Harburg is quite a large city. At this point we crossed 
a great river. Arriving at Hamburg at 1, I then wandered 
around the station, getting information in regard to a 
train for Berlin, and then struck out to find myself in a 
mighty cold world. Felt like snow. After wandering a 
few blocks I stopped a policeman and asked him if he 
could speak English. He called to another man passing 



HAMBURG 167 

by, and the latter took me to a small shop a block or so 
away. This was kept by an Englishman and here I ob- 
tained directions for finding the Salvation Army hotel. 
After this, I wandered into the fruit and vegetable mar- 
ket, and of all the markets I have ever seen this beats 
them all. It seemed to me as if there must be all of 5,000 
people, and millions of baskets scattered about on the 
ground. I would have wandered around here until dark, 
only it was too cold. A little further along I came to St. 
Peter's Kirche (Lutheran), oldest in Hamburg, but not 
very large. Here, I received a shock that staggered me. 
I was about half way around the interior when the sexton 
came up and on my speaking English, started to give me 
the history, of the church. He was very interesting and 
kind, although I did not enjoy his description as much as 
I should, as I, of course, figured that he expected a tip 
and my pocket-book was too slim for tips. At last, when 
I was about to leave he held out his hand and I dug down 
and fetched out my purse, but he said, "No," and then I 
was sorry I had not taken more interest in his description. 
I then shook hands and thanked him very heartily. 

Next was a very fine, brand new department store, 
and I spent nearly an hour going through this building. 
The interior is fixed up regardless. It appears to be built 
of cement, steel and glass. I then went down a little 
farther and came out on what appeared to be a small lake. 
A fine avenue ran along the shore, there being a promenade 
walk next the water. This must be a fine place in sum- 
mer. Just at one end is the Rathaus, a magnificent 
building. The center of the square is raised up a few 
feet and on this is a grand equestrian statue and monu- 
ment of "William I. There is also a fine fountain in the 
courtyard. I next passed St. Paul's Kirche, which is 
quite a large church, but it was not open. As it was very 
cold and getting late, I thought I had better find my way 
to the station as I knew the way to my lodgings from 
there, and although the streets ran in every direction, as 
in most cities, I made out all right and after a time was in 
the warm shelter of the station. Bad luck must be pur- 
suing me. I was sure I had located a lodging all right 



168 HAMBURG 

this time but when I gained the place it was full. They 
very kindly directed me to a place near by which turned 
out to be a police lodging house. This was only for those 
that had no money. They in turn directed me to the 
Concordia, and one of the officials placed me on a car that 
ran by the place. This hunting for lodgings is getting on 
my nerves. 

After having supper, I went to bed as it was mighty 
cold in the office. 

OCTOBER 26. Hated like anything to turn out as it 
was snowing. After breakfast walked up towards the 
station, coming to a fine park containing a magnificent 
monument to Bismarck; stopped to admire it although 
my teeth threatened to smash each other. Going a little 
further I came to a store and went in and bought an over- 
coat. This is what I should have done in Paris. 

At this store I obtained directions for finding my way 
to Hagenbeck's Tier park and took a car for this place 
which is right out in the country, arriving there just as it 
opened at 10. 

I spent a couple of hours going up and down and 
through this. Hagenbeck, as every one should know, is 
the man who supplies most of the animals required in 
zoos and circuses throughout the world, and this is his 
headquarters. It would have been more enjoyable going 
through this place in the summer, but as it was the time 
was well spent. 

At 12 :30 I got back to the station, walked a few blocks 
until I located a place to eat, then went back to the sta- 
tion where I wrote until 2 when I went out and walked 
down to a small lake. All along one side are great offices 
and buildings, mostly steamship companies. The Ham- 
burg-American office occupies an immense building. 

Entering this and inquiring the direction to their docks 
I came upon a reading room and got hold of a New York 
Herald, and read my first news of the Balkan "War and of 
the attempted assassination of Roosevelt. I was wishing 
I was in a warmer country. It will probably be too 
warm when I get down into some of those hot countries. 



HAMBURG 169 

After perusing this paper I boarded a car for the docks, 
afterward discovering that they were within 500 feet of the 
Bismarck monument I was admiring this morning. I 
didn't stay long, it being too cold to stand here. 

I walked back to the station, wrote a couple of cards and 
then boarded a train for Berlin as I wanted to be moving, 
not caring to stop here over Sunday. 

When I thought how easy it was to go aboard a boat and 
land in New York after a few days, I wanted to go away 
from the temptation. If it were not for the fact that a 
number of friends were especially interested in this trip 
of mine it would not be hard for me to quit right here, 
as I am certainly getting mighty tired. 

I thought I could obtain a little sleep on the train, but 
not a wink. There was a jolly crowd in our compartment 
and they kept things moving until we got to Berlin. One 
man had just come from England and was showing off a 
little to the rest. 

OCTOBER 27. Arrived at Berlin, stayed at the sta- 
tion until 9, then I sallied out into a still colder world 
than Hamburg. Asked a policeman to direct me to the 
Salvation Army. Started out across a small stream and 
found myself right among the finest kind of buildings. 

First was a great monument to Bismarck, another to 
Moltke, then something grand to commemorate the vic- 
tories over the French in 1871. This has a large base, 
probably 100 feet in circumference and twenty-five feet 
high. All around this were bronzed figures in bas-relief, 
above this base a smaller part covered by a canopy. This 
was covered with paintings. On the top was a high pedes- 
tal with a golden goddess of liberty. 

In the small square fronting, the palace was a group of 
figures, Bismarck being one of them. This is a great 
palace itself and a noble building, surmounted by a mag- 
nificent dome. I continued on through here until I came 
to Potsdam station and went in and warmed up a little; 
then after further directions I went on past a great sta- 
tion and a couple of monuments and finally came to a 
point where I had been directed to, only to find that I 
was wrong again. 



170 BERLIN 

A policeman put me aboard a car and gave directions 
to the conductor and after quite a ride he dropped me off 
at the Salvation Army headquarters, and I was directed 
from here by a policeman to their hotel, landing there 
just at 12 and finding it all right. 

I had a good dinner and then went into a nice warm 
room and took comfort. In a short time a fellow came 
in who could speak English, and I showed him some post 
cards and we had quite a conversation. 

My, how warm and homelike ! This place heartened 
me up, and I certainly needed it as I was just about all 
in. At 4 I went out for a walk around until 6, although it 
was raining most of the time, but I didn't mind this as I 
was warmly clothed and what made the most difference 
was the thought of the fine warm fire that I could go 
back to. After supper I sat back and just enjoyed the 
warmth of the room and watched the crowd until bed- 
time. 

OCTOBER 28. After breakfast wrote a little and 
then started out to find the postoffice, and after the usual 
number of misdirections finally located it and was over- 
joyed to find a paper from Detroit. After reading this 
over, I wrote a long epistle and card to St. Claire, then 
drifted down the Konig Strasse, till I came upon another 
great palace. This is a weather-worn old building of 
plain appearance, four stories in height. On top are a 
number of figures and a small dome. Directly opposite 
are the Kaiser's stables. Going around to the front I dis- 
covered a number of statues and monuments. Directly 
across the square is the Kaiser Frederich's Museum, a 
splendid low building with a grand portico upheld by 
twenty-two great columns. All along the walls are fine 
paintings of scenes taken from the history of Prussia. 
It was closed on Mondays so did not enter. 

Cornering this is the magnificent Dom Cathedral. This 
is not so large as some but is a splendid building. It is 
nearly square with a fine arched entrance. Up about 
ten feet on either side are figures representing the four 
evangelists. The exterior is very beautiful. On either 



BERLIN 171 

side of the entrance to the altar are figures of Luther, 
Zungli, Melanthon and Calvin. In alcoves above are 
paintings of the evangelists. On up the inside of the 
great dome are paintings. In a large alcove are a num- 
ber of statues, monuments and magnificent sarcophagi, a 
group of figures, Bismarck the foremost, being of the num- 
ber. In describing the exterior I must not forget the great 
dome. This looks like that of St. Paul's in London at the 
front corner. Just around the corner from the Dom is 
the Frederick Wilhelm IV gallery, not large but a 
very fine building, it having a splendid entranceway with- 
in which are a number of figures. Here, just before as- 
cending the grand staircase, are great paintings of the 
Kaisers, William I, and Queen Augusta, also one of the 
present Kaiser on horseback, surrounded by officers. 

Within an alcove on the first floor are ten fine paintings 
representing scenes in the life of Abraham, and then in a 
smaller room on the second floor are five others, scenes in 
the life of Joseph. 

On coming out I sat down in the Plaza, opposite the 
Dom, and ate some lunch I had with me. As I was fin- 
ishing a crowd of soldiers, preceded by a band, came 
marching up to the palace and after a few minutes the 
band came out and over to the Plaza, mounted the 
platform, upon which stands a great equestrian statue of 
Frederick the Great, and played eight pieces of music. 

After this I took a long walk. Just on the other side 
of the Dom Plaza is a canal and in this were a number of 
barges loaded down with fruit. I strolled along watching 
the people and looking in the store windows, and finally 
when I began to think I had gone far enough I came to the 
Kaiser Frederick's Museum, and discovered I had been 
wandering in a circle. 

Coming to the Dom Plaza I sat down and did some 
writing. The weather had warmed up and the clouds 
had cleared away since yesterday. I then took another 
stroll down to the Unter den Linden. This is the finest 
avenue in Berlin. The University of Berlin is situated 
on this street and almost in front in the middle of the 
street is a great equestrian monument to Frederick the 



172 BERLIN 

Great. The Unter den Linden has a great tree and grass 
bordered roadway for pedestrians, and narrow, sandy 
roadway for horsemen, as well as another for carriages 
and auto traffic. I could not help noting the contrast be- 
tween this place and Paris in regard to autos, there not 
appearing to be a tenth as many here. 

It seems hard for me to realize I am in Berlin. Although 
I see all these fine palaces, etc., there doesn't appear to 
be life enough for a great city. All along the street are 
fine buildings, hotels, theatres, and great office structures. 
There is a fine theatre just opposite the University. 

I then strolled back toward home, stopping in at the 
postoffice and sending away a couple of cards. After 
supper looked through my Detroit paper, wrote a little, 
and then sat back and watched the inmates of the room 
till 9, when I went to bed. 

OCTOBER 29. After breakfast wrote a little, then 
strolled down to the postoffice where I posted some cards, 
then back to the central market and spent some time going 
through this great building where all kinds of materials 
for good meals may be obtained. I just timed myself to 
reach the Rathaus at 10. This is a very large, fine build- 
ing. Two rooms, the magistrate hall and the Stadt hall, be- 
sides a grand corridor, are open to visitors. Along this 
grand corridor are twenty large paintings representing 
scenes and battles of Germany. Around the magistrate 
room are hung fine paintings of the Prussian kings, from 
1700. 

Within the Stadt room are a number of pieces of plate 
in glass cases and on an easel is a great painting of the 
congress of Berlin, 1878. On finishing here I went down 
past the palace to the Konlich's Zeughaus where is a grand 
collection of flags, guns, etc., captured in battle, besides a 
number of splendid paintings of great battles, and also 
great ground models of the battlefield. 

Then further along are models of guns, carriages, etc., 
then a great number of uniforms of different periods and 
of all the European countries; then a number of models 
of airships, and hundreds of old cannons. At 12 I went 



BERLIN 173 

to the Kaiser's stables and carriage house. This is right 
across from the palace and is what I had first taken for a 
state house. This is the first of its kind I have seen on my 
trip and is away beyond any stables I ever expect to see 
again, a great four story building built around a great 
yard. 

The stables, etc., occupied three of the wings. On the 
first and second floors are kept horses, and on the other 
two floors, carriages, harness, etc. There must have been 
about 400 stalls and on each floor there were two rows 
of stalls on either side of a passage twenty feet wide. 
More than half the stalls were occupied. The partitions 
were built of beautiful hardwood. The walls in front of 
the horses were built of vitrified brick and the floors were 
cement. There must have been two feet of rye straw in 
each stall and each horse had on a beautiful blue blanket 
embroidered with gold. On the other floors were hun- 
dreds of carriages of all kinds and descriptions. Besides 
the harness and saddles in use were a number of grand 
gold and silver mounted affairs that had been presented to 
the Kaiser by different crowned heads of Europe. I got 
through inspecting this wonderful display in time to get 
back to the palace square and hear the band and see the 
last of the soldiers marching into the palace yard. Then 
remembering yesterday I went over to the band stand and 
shortly the band came out and played several pieces. 

My attention was partly detracted from the music by 
the behavior of a dear little girl about three, I think. 
When I first noticed her she was in her mother's arms and 
smiled back at two girls and my face must have appeared 
very pleasant to her as she came and shook hands with 
me. After this I went back to the Zeughaus, where I 
certainly met with a surprise. I had thought as the first 
floor was covered with old cannon, etc., that the second 
must be the same, and instead of this as I climbed the 
stairs I came upon a great hall of glory. 

There were four rows, twenty each, of great bronze 
marble columns, about half of the figures in each being 
of life size, the first two making three arched corridors. 
Around the walls were fifteen magnificent paintings, 



174 BERLIN 

about half of the figures in each being of life size. The 
first two were in the time of Frederick William of Prussia. 
The next Frederick the Great. The next three Frederick 
William IV, the last five in the time of William I. The 
first two were representing battles between Prussia and 
Austria ; the next, battles of the Franco-Prussian War, and 
the last represents the crowning of William I as emperor 
of Germany. All along by these columns were bronze 
busts on slate colored pedestals, of noted men of German 
history, and in the circle in the center were gigantic 
statues, bronze, on slate colored pedestals, of several 
Prussian kings. Beside each painting near one of the 
columns was a drawn plan with all the figures bearing 
the name so that a person could know each painting. 
After finishing here I went into the other room and looked 
at a great number of old models of different countries un- 
til the place closed at 3. 

Then I took a short stroll along the Unter den Linden 
and observed the people and looked in the windows until I 
came to Cook's office. Went in and obtained some in- 
formation in regard to sending a parcel to America. Then 
strolled on a little farther until I was brought up by 
noticing a sign, "Chicago Daily News' reading room. 
Visitors welcome." I lost no time in climbing the stairs 
and after registering read the Paris edition of the Herald 
and then other papers until 5' when I started for home. 
After supper I conversed and w r atched the inmates until 
9, when I went to bed. 

OCTOBER 30. After breakfast sallied out for a long 
stroll. Stopped in and went over the ground floor of 
Teitz's department store, the finest in the city. This is a 
truly splendid building, built of cement blocks, containing 
five floors. 

It must be nearly one thousand feet long, and is quite 
narrow, probably one hundred feet, and like all great 
continental stores is fitted up regardless of expense. After 
this I went into the market and bought some cakes for my 
lunch, and then on to the postoffice where I sent away 
some cards and then just had time to reach the Zeughaus 
by 10 when it opened. 



\ 

BERLIN 175 



The rest of this exhibit comprised thousands of guns, 
swords and arms of all kinds and a great number of uni- 
forms, but what specially attracted my attention were 
seventy wax figures dressed in uniforms of different 
periods from 1700 to the present time. These were fine. 
Then there were three small monuments in glass cases 
that must have cost something, these being made of jasper, 
gold and silver. 

After finishing here I went across to the Altes Museum. 
Just within the main entrance was a great dome, and on 
the ground floor and in the gallery above were thirty-six 
marble statues of ancient Greek and Roman characters. 

Both the ground floor and the one above are filled with 
everything that would be dear to the American — old 
statues, tablets, sarcophagi, pottery, cooking utensils, etc., 
used by the ancients. On finishing here I went through 
the gallery to the second floor of the New Museum. This 
is filled with statuary and tablets of Greeks and Egyp- 
tians. In one of the great rooms, in the panel near the 
ceiling, are fine paintings representing Bible scenes, and 
in another are huge paintings representing ancient cities. 
In the center of this floor is a large open space reaching 
to the roof and a grand stairway leads to the floor below. 
On either side are stairways to the floor above. These 
have fine gray marble steps and posts and beautiful brass 
work between the steps and the rail. 

The walls above to the ceiling are covered with six gi- 
gantic paintings, besides containing smaller ones, depicting 
ancient scenes. At the floor of each staircase was the gi- 
gantic statue of an ancient beside a rearing horse and all 
around the staircase leading down are smaller statues. 

Above, where the two staircases join, was a great canopy 
upheld by four columns on the one side and on the other 
by four statues of maidens. Eight girders which sup- 
port the roof are beautifully decorated with brass figures. 
The whole was a splendid effect that is impossible to ex- 
press on paper. On the floor above were a great num- 
ber of ancient prints and manuscripts, besides a fine col- 
lection of paintings and pen and ink sketches of the nine- 
teenth century. 



176 BERLIN 

The ground floor was entirely given over to statues and 
sarcophagi of ancient Egypt, there being a very large col- 
lection of these. At one part there was an open space 
and around this were sixteen great pillars, supporting 
the gallery. These, as well as the gallery above, are cov- 
ered with paintings of Egyptian scenes, symbols, etc. 

I finished here just in time to hear the band again from 
1 to 1 :30, eating my lunch while listening to the music. 
After this I took another stroll. On going a few blocks I 
came upon three splendid buildings, all in a row, occupy- 
ing three squares — two great churches, almost alike at 
either end, and the Frederick Wilhelm III theater in the 
center. 

The names of the two churches were the French Dom 
and German Dom. Both buildings were low in structure 
with three grand entrances, upheld by great pillars and 
crowned with very high domes surmounted by golden 
figures. They being closed I had no chance of visiting 
the interiors. 

The theater was quite large and had a magnificent old 
entranceway, upheld by a number of great pillars. A 
little further on I came into the Leipziger Strasse, a fine 
street lined with great stores. I crossed Wilhelm Strasse, 
another fine, wide street. A little further along passed 
Wertheim's grand new department store. Crossed the 
Leipsic Platz, a large square, the buildings running 
around the outside. Streets ran around the outside, 
and centered on each side of the streets was a fence 
enclosing a grass plot, bordered with trees, and in alcoves 
were a couple of monuments. There are also seats around 
these monuments. A little further along I came out on the 
Potsdamer Platz, and station. I went in and inquired 
in regard to the station from which I would take a train 
for Leipsic, and finding it was only a few minutes away, 
went along the street, passing two great museums which I 
must see later. Coming to the station I went in and in- 
formed myself as to trains. Then turned back and con- 
tinued along the Konig Gratz, coming to a fine park on 
the left. This was a road I had taken from the station on 
Sunday. 



BERLIN 177 

I sat down here and wrote a little then went on to the 
Unter den Linden, gaining entrance to it by way of the 
great portal. This is called Bradenburg Tor. After 
walking a short distance I came to the office of the Ber- 
liner Lokal Anzeiger and noticed a great crowd, both in- 
side and out, reading bulletins and looking over maps 
pertaining to the war. I went in a few minutes, then 
continued along the street, passing among other fine 
buildings, the magnificent offices of the two great German 
steamship lines. Next door to one of these is the fine 
reading room of the Chicago News and I could not resist 
the temptation to go in and read a little while. I looked 
over the Paris edition of the Herald, and then picked up 
the News of October 21st. On the first page the name 
Detroit caught my eye. There was an article dealing with 
a speech made in the "Y" by Booker T. Washington, the 
great negro, hammering Jack Johnson. 

After this I went home and had supper, and afterwards 
started a book lent me by one of the inmates, entitled, 
"Our German Cousins/' and read this until 9, when I 
turned in. 

OCTOBER 31. After breakfast, went down as far as 
the market. "Wandered through and laid in provisions 
for noon, then went to the postoffice, where I wrote and 
sent away a few cards. After this, I headed for the Kaiser 
Frederich Museum, which opened at 10. This was a very 
large building and had a beautiful main entrance. The 
first room I entered contained a number of brass and 
bronze figures and groups, most of them referring to 
Scripture, then a number of figures and groups in marble, 
copies of Michael Angelo. I sat down in front of the 
magnificent bronze door, built in 1425, by Lorenzo 
Ghiberti, for a Florence church. Besides ten scenes, there 
were forty-seven small heads and figures. Next to this 
beautiful work of art there were thousands of medals, 
medallions and old coins. Afterward looked at more fig- 
ures and groups. Next, running along the hall, skirting a lot 
of old pottery, etc., was a part of the wall from an old city 
in Persia. At the lower end of the long room, which was 



178 BERLIN 

filled with a varied collection, was a magnificent piece of 
inlaid work. Partly on the ceiling and sides and partly 
outside of the small half dome was a picture of St. Peter, 
with a great cross, and on either side the angels Michael 
and Gabriel. In another great hall were a number of fine 
old altars and paintings. On the second floor was a grand 
collection of old masters. The finest of all in one great 
room were hung nine immense tapestries from paintings of 
Raphael, representing scenes of the New Testament. At 
12, I finished and strolled out around for awhile and then 
located an English church. I went on to the Dom square, 
where I ate my lunch and was just in time to see the 
soldiers march into the palace, and then line up as usual 
for the band, and heard eight fine selections. 

At 1 :30 I started down and along the Unter den Linden, 
rubbering along the way. Stopped in at a paper office 
and looked over a map giving the positions of the four 
countries engaged in war. After this I went through the 
Branden Burger and the Reichstag, going all around this 
and finally entering and finding that in fifteen minutes I 
could go through. At 2 :30 sharp a guide started with a 
party of us. First was the grand central hall, literally 
smothered with flowers. Outside of this I thought the 
furnishings of the different rooms and offices quite plain. 
Reichstag chamber would n£)t hold a candle to the Senate 
chamber in Washington. After seeing this place I went 
to the Grand Victory monument, and then walked down 
one side and back the other of Sieges Alle, or the Victory 
Avenue. This runs right through a beautiful park called 
the Thiergarten, from the Victory monument to Kemper 
Platz, a half mile in length. Down the center was a fine 
asphalt roadway, then on either side a row of trees, then a 
gravel track for horsemen. Next was another row of trees, 
then a wide walk and then a space about twenty feet wide 
for grass and flowers. At intervals were great monuments, 
thirty-two in all, sixteen on either side. The plan of all 
is the same, there being a stone platform with two steps 
leading to it. This is about thirty feet lengthwise of the 
street and is half round. The circle part is a stone seat 
with a back. In front is a fine marble statue on a pedestal 



BERLIN 179 

\ 
of one of the Prussian rulers, and dividing the seat into 
three sections were busts on pedestals of two of the noted 
men of the period. In addition, directly behind Joachim 
II was a bronze head of Luther. This is far and away the 
grandest avenue I have ever seen. 

After making the round I sat down alongside of the 
bust of Bismarck and wrote this description. I then went 
on to the News office, read awhile, next to the Teitze store, 
and then home. After supper I wrote and read until bed- 
time. 

NOVEMBER 1. After breakfast I went down to the 
market where I bought some cakes for my lunch, then 
continued down to the postoffice, sending away a couple 
of postcards, and then went down to the Konig Schloss, 
"the palace, 7 ' just arriving there at 10, as it opened 
for visitors. I paid the fee — 12 cents — and in a few min- 
utes a party of us were shown through. "We went up a 
winding stair until we reached the third floor, then were 
all handed felt slippers to put over our shoes. We then 
made the start. It was comical to see the bunch slipping 
along with the big slippers. 

In all we visited twelve rooms besides two great por- 
trait halls and two magnificent reception rooms. As we 
were moved right along I did not have time to take notes. 
I would like to have had about fifteen minutes in each 
room. About all I can remember is one grand and magnifi- 
cent panorama. Not being able to understand the guide, 
I had to content myself in using my eyes to the best ad- 
vantage. I inferred that each room was named after a 
ruler of Prussia and was furnished in the period in which 
the occupant lived. The floors were all of beautiful pol- 
ished hardwood. The walls of each room were hung with 
fine portraits and there was of course very grand furni- 
ture. One article in each was uncovered so we could see 
it — grand silver and gold mirrors, marble and all kinds of 
inlaid tables, magnificent silver and gold candelabra, fctc. 
But the last great room, which was the banquet hall, was 
grand beyond description — marble pillars and columns ga- 
lore, and gold and silver decorations of all kinds. Last 



180 BEELIN 

was the chapel, a great round room, the walls and ceiling 
being covered with paintings of the Apostles and fathers 
of the church. The pulpit and altar decorations were 
superb. 

After finishing here I went down to the office of an ex- 
press company to see if I could get some information in re- 
gard to the Parcel Post. After obtaining information, I 
went to the Volker Kunde Museum. This is quite a large 
building, but not so grand as some of the others. 

The great entrance hall is filled with old structures — 
boats, canoes and pieces of old statues of different kinds. 
The first floor was given over entirely to old stoves, 
weapons, and utensils of every kind used long ago. The 
second was covered with cabinets filled with everything 
used by the native tribes of different countries. One ex- 
hibit which attracted my attention especially was of a 
number of beautiful gods and other things made of shells 
and beads. This was wonderful work and showed great 
patience on the part of those who finished it. 

The third floor was given over to a magnificent collection 
from China, India and Japan. There were thousands of 
pieces that would have taken a month to examine. Among 
them was a great number of wax figures, from the dif- 
ferent countries, dressed in different costumes. These 
were very fine. There were thousands of gods, pieces of 
pottery, vases, etc. 

On finishing here I went next to the Kunstewerbe Mu- 
seum which is another fine building with a very beautiful 
entrance hall court. Fine black marble pillars uphold 
the roof of the gallery and the same number in the gal- 
lery uphold the roof. All around the walls of the court 
were old iron works of all kinds — door knockers, gates, 
fenders, screens, fence work, etc. 

The first floor was entirely given over to thirty-one 
rooms — some old rooms themselves, others containing the 
furniture of a room of some noted person of the ancient 
times. These ran back for almost 600 years and are 
simply magnificent. One in particular contains the furni- 
ture formerly in the room belonging to Marie Antoinette. 
The old stained glass windows were used in many of the 
rooms. 



BERLIN 181 



Part of the second floor was taken up with thousands 
of pieces of china, plain, painted and otherwise, porcelain, 
and a great number of images and ceramic work. Next, a 
great number of gold and silver clocks, watches, caskets, 
snuff boxes, instruments, etc. There were a number of 
china stoves, a room filled with gold, silver and onyx 
vases, crosses, images, mirrors, etc. Next, a room filled with 
beautiful pieces of Venetian work and a couple of rooms 
with painted vases, dishes, etc. 

All around the gallery were cases filled with old paint- 
ings, dishes, medals and medallions, great onyx, gold and 
silver snuff boxes, watch fobs and some old pipes, old 
buckles, etc. In one place were forty-five splendid paste 
imitations of gems. In cases around the wall were gold 
and silver tankards, mugs, cups, etc., a very fine collection. 

On finishing with this I went to the main postoffice and 
read for a couple of hours, then I hustled home, had sup- 
per and after watching the crowd awhile, went to bed. 

NOVEMBER 2. After breakfast, although it was rain- 
ing, started out as usual. Stopped in at the market and 
bought material for lunch, and then went on to the post- 
office where I posted a letter and a card. Next, went to 
the Salvation Army headquarters where I obtained infor- 
mation in regard to hotels located in Germany. This 
would have been a Godsend to me before I left Switzer- 
land, but it is of no use now as I am practically through. 

Then I went to the station where I took a train out for 
Potsdam arriving at 12. Within a couple of blocks from 
the station I came upon a great square, a palace on one 
side and a magnificent church of St. Nicholas on the other. 
The church was quite large and of square form with quite 
a number of large pillars and crowned with a fine dome. 

The exterior of the palace was like others I have seen, 
a three story pile enclosing the courtyard. I found my 
way to the entrance, paid a fee and within a few minutes, 
in the company of two ladies, was shown around the 
building. 

We must have seen everything there was on one floor as 
I counted thirty-two rooms. This is an old home of the 



182 POTSDAM 

Holienzollerns. Although not as magnificent as the one at 
Berlin, it was grand enough. 

My, how I would have liked to have understood 
Deutsche, as the guide kept up a continual flow of lan- 
guage. He must have been picked especially on account of 
his voice because it was so pleasant to listen to him, even 
if I could not understand. 

There was a number of bedrooms of all the ancient 
monarchs. A bed of Frederick the Great was shown 
and admired. Like at Berlin, we kept moving all the 
time and I had no chance to make notes. It was therefore 
all a blur of beauty and glory to me. Some rooms were 
decorated entirely in silver, others in gold, etc. Just as 
we finished a squad of soldiers marched up, headed by a 
band and went through a few evolutions. 

After watching these for a little time I came upon the 
Garrison Kirche where the Kaiser worships. This, is just 
a fair sized building, with a fine tower, containing a fine 
set of chiming bells. 

I paid out 6 cents to see the interior of this and we were 
shown the place where the Kaiser William sits. I after- 
wards took a long walk, going almost around the town, and 
then out about three miles to the palace, the present resi- 
dence of the Kaiser. This is in the country proper, even 
beyond the street cars, and is surrounded by hundreds of 
acres of park. On reaching the main gate I was not al- 
lowed to enter, and had to content myself with the view 
from this point, but the buildings were in plain sight, 
not more than forty rods away. There were three of 
them — the palace and two others used as offices. Nothing 
striking about the palace — just like other large country 
residences. 

On leaving here I retraced my steps a short distance to 
the railway and took a train back to Berlin. Near this 
station was a private station for the use of the Kaiser 
alone. The train on which I rode was crowded, and I had 
to stand most of the way. On arriving at Berlin I walked 
up to the News office and read something of the war until 
5, then went home. After supper wrote and read until 9, 
when I turned in. 



BERLIN 183 

NOVEMBER 3. Spent plenty of time over breakfast 
and then started for a long walk. I went down the Unter 
den Linden and along this to the Charlottenburg Chausee, 
continuing along this right through the park and then 
back around the outer edge, following the banks of the 
Spree river part of the way. This park, called the Thier- 
garten, is very beautiful and of great extent. 

I continued along back the Unter den Linden to the 
Dom, crossed the canal there and within a few blocks came 
to the English church. This would hold about five hun- 
dred people and was well filled. The service was very 
high church, and I couldn't help thinking that I would 
have gotten more good by continuing my walk through 
the park. 

On coming out I struck for home and after dinner spent 
the entire afternoon finishing a letter to Detroit. After 
supper I sat back and rested and rubbered at the crowd 
of sixty men who occupied the room, and were variously 
employed. I could not help thinking of what some of my 
friends would think of the place that I spoke so highly of 
in calling it "Home." 

Right beside me was a man making supper of bologna 
and the substantial bread of this country, and it was piti- 
ful to see him scraping the skin in order to not lose a 
crumb and licking his fingers to get the last taste. A 
young fellow who speaks English and has been very kind, 
has hunted around and gotten the address of lodging 
houses in Leipsic and Dresden, so I shall be all right at 
these places. At 8 I turned in. 

NOVEMBER 4. After breakfast went around saying 
goodby to those who had been so kind, and then started for 
the station. Tried to see if I could make a short cut with- 
out getting lost and succeeded, for a wonder. Had my 
eyes open all the time to the looks, dress, etc., of the hun- 
dreds of girls I met or passed, who were going to work. 
To me they didn't seem any different from the girls of the 
same walk of life in Detroit. 

It was a beautiful fall morning — cold and bracing — the 
air tasted like honey. I said good-by to Berlin with regret 
as I have had a very pleasant and instructive time here. 



184 LEIPSIC 

At 10 started for Leipsic. The country through which 
we passed was generally flat, in some places slightly roll- 
ing. One of the men in our compartment seemed to be a 
comic, as he kept the crowd laughing for a couple of hours, 
or until two girls, who appeared to be the "butt" of his 
wit, left the train. 

At this time we ran into quite a snowstorm, the ground 
being already covered. It almost makes me feel like never 
stopping till I come into a warmer country, but I am not 
my own and must go according to orders. 

We passed several large towns and at Wittenberg made 
quite a stop. The land was mostly planted to fall grain, 
this being up in most places. There are also a great num- 
ber of small forests, mostly evergreens of some kind. 

I had to change cars at Bitterfield, but only waited ten 
minutes for the next train. At this place the yard was 
filled with overhead wires. They appeared to do all their 
switching with electric motors. As we neared Leipsic, 
large fields of sugar beets were passed, women being busy 
pulling and trimming them. 

Arrived at Leipsic at 2 and immediately started out to 
see something of this place. Within a few blocks came 
out upon a square, in the center of which was a great 
monument — a figure of a woman on a pedestal and sur- 
rounding this, statues of Kaiser Wilhelm I, and some 
of his officers on horseback. 

Next I came to a church. On going in it looked as if 
a marriage were about to be performed. I just stood long 
enough to observe several fine pillars and the beautiful 
paintings along the walls. A little farther along I came 
out on August Platz. This is a very large square, long and 
narrow. At one end is a fine museum and at the other a 
great theater. On either side are shops and stores. Just 
across from the side of the museum is a university. The 
whole is a splendid modern building. I went in and 
looked at the main entrance hall. 

Profiting by experience I then started out to locate the 
address given me in Berlin, and for a wonder I had been 
heading towards it and in a few minutes located the place. 

I next went on till I came to Johaness Kirchen. This 



LEIPSIC 185 

is a very old church. Just an ordinary interior, excepting 
for the beautiful altar on which was a great stone figure of 
Christ. Above His head was a canopy upheld by four 
magnificent marble pillars. 

I next w r ent up to the market, which was a very large 
building. "Wandered around for a few minutes, then went 
to the Eathaus, a magnificent new building, crowned by a 
splendid tower. This is larger than anything of its kind 
in Berlin. I went in and walked around the corridors of 
two floors. The main entrance and lobby are a dream of 
beauty, constructed of different colored marbles. 

As it was getting late I headed for the lodging house. 
Had to stand in line for fifteen minutes, then had all 
kinds of trouble before I could make myself understood. 
If it had not been for having a passport I don't think I 
would have made connections. 

After supper I listened to the crowd converse until 8. 
In order to get into this place I had to ring a bell and then 
pay out two cents, getting a check for this, it being good 
for that amount at the counter. 

This must be some kind of a mission as there are 
several texts on the wall. I certainly pitied a poor old 
fellow who was at the end of the table where I was sitting. 
He must have been 60 years old and almost blind, hardly 
able to see the food on his plate. Just as I got ready to go 
to bed a couple of men handed around singing books, and 
after singing a couple of songs an address was given by the 
superintendent. At 9 :30 I turned in. 

NOVEMBEE 5. After breakfast had same service, 
consisting of a hymn and chapter from the Bible, prayer 
and another hymn. I could not help noticing how well 
the men sang. 

After a few minutes I went to the August Platz and 
boarded a car for the Leipsic battlefield. This was out- 
side the city limits. The site was occupied by a great 
monument which must be one hundred feet square at the 
base. First, there was the foundation, then four great 
slabs of granite, each one a little shorter than the other. 
Then rough granite up twenty-five feet, then smooth 
granite another twenty-five and then a great cap. 



186 LEIPSIC 

Around this cap were twelve gigantic stone figures of 
generals who took part in the battle. At the bottom were 
four rich entrances to the interior, where are relics of the 
battle. This is just newly built, the approaches not be- 
ing finished. Although the rain was coming down in 
chunks I walked all around it. 

A part of the battlefield is now occupied by a cemetery 
and crematory. After this I went back to town, just get- 
ting back in time to reach the Grasse Museum as it opened 
at 10. It would take a person a month to examine every- 
thing in this place. 

The first floor was entirely given over to products of 
Saxony, principally china and lace. On the second was a 
w r onderful collection from China, Japan and India. I do 
not know that I have seen anything finer than this. 

There was everything imaginable that the countries are 
noted for. There were costumes of all kinds, some of them 
very rich in silver and gold embroidery; gods and images, 
different rooms, lacquer work, bamboo, jinrikishas, pala- 
quins, rooms completely furnished and a great number of 
models of noted temples, mosques, etc. 

The third floor was taken up with prehistoric exhibits 
from South America and Africa — old weapons and uten- 
sils of every kind, besides a great number of bones and 
skeletons of extinct animals. 

On finishing here I went a couple of blocks to the great 
building I had noticed last evening, which proved to be 
the Supreme Court. It was a magnificent building with 
a great dome in the center. There were great marble pil- 
lars all around outside of the court. In the center was a 
stone laid by the Kaiser in 1905. On the four sides of 
the lower part of the dome were a great number of win- 
dows in a semi-circle, covered with four scenes represent- 
ing commerce, manufactures, agriculture and govern- 
ment. I was taken in hand by a guide and told about 
these different parts, then was shown into a room where 
the court was in session. The Judge was in the center of 
the semi-circle of men, all of whom were dressed in beauti- 
ful scarlet gowns. I stayed a few minutes taking in the 
scene, and then hurried to the station. "When I arrived 



DEESDBN 187 

there and bought my ticket I just had time, to hurry out 
and get some lunch and go aboard the train at 12:30 for 
Dresden. Ate lunch as I went along. 

For twenty-five miles the country was flat. Then we got 
into a valley of the river, and from there to Dresden the 
land was rolling and in some places very hilly. Most of 
this land was in grass, a little grain and a few sugar 
beets. There were a great number of forests. "We passed 
several large towns and it must have taken us three- 
quarters of an hour to run through the suburbs of Dres- 
den. It was a fine sight. I was able to look into many 
back yards. Every available foot was planted with some- 
thing. In this country when they take off one crop they 
immediately plant something else, continuing this until 
frost stops growth. 

One thing I noticed in this country, but had never 
made any note of before, is that there is no danger of ac- 
cidents to rigs at railway crossings. Even in the coun- 
try there is a man or woman stationed at all the crossings, 
who put down gates as a train approaches. 

It was 4 before I arrived at Dresden, and 4 :30 before I 
had finished my usual search for information in regard 
to trains, leaving for my next stop. By 5 I had located an 
address given me in Berlin. This appeared to be the same 
kind of a place I had stopped at in Leipsic, although not as 
large, but apparently a better class of men stopped there. 
I went into the sitting room and spent the time until 
nearly 6 waiting up my diary. 

At 6 :30 I got fixed up for the night, not having the 
same bother as last night. I then had a good hot supper, 
afterwards sitting back and taking comfort watching and 
listening to the crowd. I was amused by the antics of one 
young fellow who would draw a lighted cigar into his 
mouth and work it out still lighted. At 8 :30 we had a 
service, consisting of a song, sermon, prayer and another 
song, and it was 9 :30 before I got to bed. 

I forgot to mention anything about Leipsic 's new sta- 
tion. This is a fine building newly built, and is the larg- 
est railway station in Europe. I remembered several 
times that this was election day in the States. 



188 DEBSDEN 

NOVEMBER 6. After breakfast had another service 
consisting of a song, chapter, prayer and another song. 
As I expected to leave early tomorrow morning, at 8 I 
started out. By accident made the right turn and then 
after a few blocks came out on a whole string of churches 
and museums. The first was the Zeughaus, an immense 
building which I noticed would be open at 9 o'clock. 
Next to this was a Vereim Museum, another great build- 
ing, which overlooks the Elba. There was a small park 
here and then the esplanade along the river. 

I then went down steps to the New Market Square. 
Here was located the Frauen Kirche, a very old building, 
nearly round, with a huge dome. Immediately in front 
was a fine statue of Luther and on the other side was a 
statue of Frederick August, king of Saxony. A couple of 
blocks farther along was a Eathaus (city hall), an im- 
mense building with a great central door. In the grand 
entrance way were a number of archways, supported by 
immense pillars, painted blue, striped with white, black 
and gold. Going back I came into the Altmarkt Square. 
In the center was a fine monument and figure of "Vic- 
tory," surrounded by a number of other smaller figures. 
On one side was another large church, Johannes, some- 
thing like the Frauen. A little farther along, I came upon 
an old woman shoveling coal into a large basket, which 
she afterward carried up the stairway. Coming out upon 
the river again, I came to the Hof Kirche. This was quite 
a large church with a great tower. There were several 
fine paintings but the balance of the interior looked as if 
it had been left out in the rain for a number of years. I 
then went back to the Zeughaus. In a small square near 
by four old women were digging flower beds. Here were 
two small monuments, one to Luther and the other to 
Gootfried Lemmer. The great entrance hall and the first 
floor of the museum were entirely given over to statuary, 
modern and ancient. There were also a few cases of 
medals. There were a splendid lot of figures of the elec- 
tors and kings of Saxony, and at one place, grouped to- 
gether, were three fine bronze busts of Charles I, Cardinal 
Eichelieu and Gustavus Adolphus. The second floor was 



DRESDEN 189 

almost entirely taken up with statues, there being a great 
number of rooms, each representing different periods. 
Two great rooms were entirely filled with scenes from an- 
cient Greece and Rome, statues and figures on the floor, 
and two rows of frieze w r ork around the walls. In one 
room was a beautiful copy of a bronze door of a church 
in Florence on which were depicted ten Bible scenes — 
Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, Noah, Abraham offering 
up Isaac, Jacob and Esau meeting in the desert, Joseph 
and his brethren at Pharaoh's court, David slaying Go- 
liath, Moses coming down from the Mount, Pall of Jericho, 
and lastly, Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. Just in 
front was a copy of Michael Angelo's "Moses" in a sitting 
posture. There were two very beautiful stairways leading 
to the second floor and fine marble facing on the walls. 
Between the hand rail and steps was very unique brass 
work. On the walls above the marble work, were four 
fine paintings and the ceiling is covered with a painting 
representing an ancient war scene. After finishing here I 
took quite a long walk and crossed the river. On the other 
side were two great state buildings. Went along the 
Konig Liberty Strasse, then turned off and after going a 
couple of blocks came to another great Lutheran church, 
very large, crowned with a great tower. I went in and 
listened to the music a few minutes. There was nothing 
striking about the interior. Afterwards I came back 
across the river. Just before coming to the bridge, New 
Markt Square, there was a magnificent brass equestrian 
statue of King Frederick II, of Saxony. 

On crossing the river, I came out upon the Zwingle 
Museum, a great narrow building running around a 
square. There are five different apartments. I went into 
one and spent some time looking at a fine collection of old 
prints and engravings. On finishing here, I then went to 
dinner, passing the palace on the way. This is just an 
ordinary looking pile of buildings, like so many others. 

After dinner, I started out and took a long walk, stop- 
ping in at a couple of places to warm up as it was bitterly 
cold, not getting back to my lodgings until 5. At one 
place, seeing a cab waiting and a crowd gathered around, 



190 DRESDEN 

I waited to see what would develop, and shortly a couple 
of young fellows, accompanied by some great officer, came 
out and entered the auto. They took off their hats and so 
did the men of the crowd. On inquiry I found they were 
two sons of the King of Saxony. 

Today I was wishing I could get aboard a train and 
keep going until I got down into southern Italy where it 
is a little warmer than here. On arriving at my lodgings 
I waited a few minutes for lights and then got to work on 
a letter I am sending to Detroit. After supper had a ser- 
vice and at 9 :30 turned in. 

NOVEMBER 7. After breakfast I walked down to the 
station. With my usual forethought I had found out the 
exact fare to Bodenbach and kept the exact amount, chang- 
ing the rest of my money into Austrian money, only to 
find that I was about fifteen cents short when I came to 
get the ticket, and had to exchange one kroner (20 cents) 
in order to make it. 

At 8 :30 started for Bodenbach, forty-one miles away. 
The entire distance the train followed the banks of the 
Elbe and a continual moving picture was spread out be- 
fore us — great hills reaching down to the water's edge on 
either side. The river was full of small craft, and rafts 
and logs in some places were being shoved down to the 
water on slides. The sun came out at intervals but not 
long enough to melt the snow that had fallen. As we got 
higher up it seemed to be colder as more snow was seen, 
until arriving at Bodenbach there must have been six 
inches on the ground. 

I did not stop here but obtained another ticket and went 
on the same train to Prague. "We still followed the valley 
although now from time to time it widened out a little. 
Whenever this occurred the land was covered with or- 
chards. I noticed a number of queer looking houses with 
sloping roofs and they appeared as if shingles had been 
raised up and very small windows inserted. 

Just before we came to Bodenbach I said good-by to 
Deutschland as this little city is in Bohemia. From this 
point the names of the stations are printed both in Ger- 



PRAGUE 191 

man and Bohemian. The "uniform of the railroad em- 
ployes is the same as the German with the exception of 
the caps, which are small and quite high. At Ludowitz the 
valley widened and wheat and beet fields were passed. 
By noon the sun came out nice and warm and I felt quite 
like living again. 

At one large town quite a party of well dressed people 
were on the platform. They appeared to be a funeral 
party. Boudnice seemed to be quite a city. A large 
crowd got on there. At one place we passed a great 
hunting party. At different places along the line carts 
were standing loaded with beet pulp. It appears that 
the farmers who ship beets get the pulp back to feed. 
There have been a number of very good looking girls 
come aboard since we struck Bohemia, most of them 
dressed as in America, but some wore a queer kind of head 
wrap instead of a hat. Draha and Libsice appeared to be 
quite large sized towns. 

Arrived at Prague at 4. I certainly had my fill of a 
slow train, as this 121 miles took seven and a half hours to 
traverse. I wandered around Prague almost continuously 
until 9, looking for lodgings without success. I know there 
must have been cheap places of some kind here but I could 
not find them. After this heartbreaking experience, I had 
to go to a hotel and pay a fancy price which I could ill af- 
ford. This continual hunting for lodgings has got on my 
nerves, like a nightmare. It will probably cause me to 
curtail my trip in several directions. This seems ■ to be 
more of a city than either Leipsic or Dresden, which are 
more than twice as large. At 9 I turned in. 

NOVEMBER 8. After breakfast started out to see 
something of the town, by daylight. First came to a 
church, a small one and very old but containing six small 
and one large altars that w T ere very fine. I then went on 
to the postoffice and after considerable difficulty made out 
to get a collection of stamps for the letter and cards I will 
send from here. A little farther along came out upon a 
fine avenue, Vaglanske Camesti, which I had crossed sev- 
eral times. On a hill at the top is the royal museum, a 



192 PRAGUE 

very large building crowned by a great tower. In front is 
a monument to one of the ancient kings of Bohemia. 

As my first business was to locate the station from 
which I would leave for Vienna I asked a policeman here 
and finally got directions, it being a few blocks away. 
I spent some time here making sure about times of trains. 
I then started out for a long walk, not getting back to this 
station till 1. I passed by the great museum but didn't 
bother going in as I had had a surfeit of museums. A few 
blocks farther on I came to a great pile of buildings which 
proved to be the University of Prague. This covered sev- 
eral blocks, there being a great number of buildings, new 
and old. 

There was a queer looking old church here but it was 
closed. I passed three other churches but they were also 
closed only being opened at certain times during the day. 
The last was a fine large modern building with two great 
steeples. Prague is very hilly and high. It winds up hill 
and down for several miles. Passed some very fine build- 
ings and a couple of opera houses. This is the first city 
I have been in since leaving London where the traffic keeps 
to the left, and the first since leaving America that I 
have seen fenders on street cars. 

The policemen were queer looking objects as they wore 
a comical looking hat with a great bunch of feathers on one 
side. After dinner, which I ate in the station, I sat in 
this warm place until 3, hating to face the cold world out- 
side, ,but at that time made a break and although I nearly 
froze kept at it until 5. I first came upon a great building 
with a fine decorated front and a number of figures on 
top. I thought it must be a palace or a great museum or 
opera and instead discovered it to be a restaurant. Some 
of these people must have plenty of money to be able to 
patronize a place like this. Next was another large 
church, the entrance to which was reached by a passage, 
it being entirely surrounded by buildings. The interior 
was made up of contrast. The whole, with the exception of 
altars and paintings, was badly in need of repairs. The 
paintings represented "All the Way to Calvary" and were 
fine, l3ut the altars were truly magnificent and would have 
been a credit to the finest church in the world. 



PRAGUE 193 

I found out the name of this, viz., Hauptpfarrkirehi. 
Across the way was another church and just beyond still 
another, but neither was open. I then traveled on a little 
farther until I came out upon the Elba. Here were a 
great opera and concert hall. This was called the Rou- 
dalphine. At the far end of the building was a gallery. 
This being opened I walked along the embankment quite 
a distance until I came opposite a point where to the right 
as far as I could see was one unbroken forest. After 
spending a few moments watching a duck wallowing 
around a great raft I started to see if I could find my 
way back. 

I passed a few more small and very old looking build- 
ings and then through a great tower portal to the main 
street. Then on to the postoffice where I warmed up a lit- 
tle while I was doing some writing. It is a good thing 
I had put the stamps on the envelope first as I had to 
write very close and small to get on the address, as there 
were ten stamps on the letter. At 6 :30 I finished my let- 
ter and then went to the station where I had supper, then 
on to the Franz Josef station to wait for a train. During 
the day I noticed a great number of huge pipes with china 
bowls, but most of the smokers used cigars, which were 
very cheap, some less than half a cent apiece. 

Here, as in most of the continental countries, the men 
take off their hats and almost sweep the ground with 
them on meeting acquaintances of either sex. I sat in the 
corridor of the station observing the crowd until 9 :30, 
when I boarded the train for Vienna, 255 miles away, and 
rode all night. 

NOVEMBER 9. Obtained a few hours' sleep during the 
night and by 6 I was able to see the country. We ap- 
peared to be climbing most of the night, but from this on 
to Vienna was down hill. The first sight I got of the 
country it was covered with snow, but this disappeared 
shortly. At first it was very hilly, then kept getting flatter 
till as far as I could see it was one immense plain. The 
last land seemed to be divided up into very small plots, 
mostly planted to wheat. 



194 VIENNA 

Arrived at Vienna at 9. After getting something to eat 
I started out to see if I could locate a lodging, also went 
to find a Cook's office, as I had only a few cents left and 
would have to cash a check here. After walking quite a 
distance I came upon another station and after consid- 
erable bother found some one who could speak English, 
and was directed to Cook's. On the way passed two 
churches. The first, St. Peter's, was a small round old 
building, crowned with a fair-sized dome, and within had 
nine splendid altars. St. Stephen's is a very large church 
having one small and one very high tower. The interior 
was splendid and the stained glass windows and altars 
were grand. 

I noticed a peculiar thing in both these churches, also 
the same in the Prague churches, and that was the stone 
floors were covered with small sections of board floor, 
done to make it warm in winter, I suppose, but they 
squeaked and hollered every time you put your feet down. 

Across the way from the last church was Cook's office. 
I went in and obtained my money and afterwards went 
along at random for a few blocks and I guessed all right. 
Pretty soon I came out upon a whole lot of palaces and 
museums, something like Berlin. First was the palace, a 
tremendous building. To one side a great portal led into 
a small park. On either side of the roadway were great 
monuments — one to Prince Carl and the other to Prince 
Eugene of Austria. These were great generals living two 
hundred years ago. Just across a small park was the 
Schiller Opera House. In front was a fine statue of Schil- 
ler on a pedestal, and on the opposite side was Goethe in 
a sitting posture. 

A little farther along I came upon two immense build- 
ings almost exactly alike on opposite sides of a great 
square. Each was crowned by great domes. They were 
closed. 

Then came upon another fine church having two splen- 
did steeples. Next a beautiful building with great marble 
pillar approaches. I went in and wandered around the 
corridors. It contained a number of fine marble pillars 
and columns, besides a few paintings. 



VIENNA 195 

The next was a great building surrounding a square 
with a number of odd looking towers on top. This was 
a military barracks and arsenal. Then came to the Eat- 
haus. This was certainly grand beyond description. I 
thought it was another great church at first, as it had a 
small and large steeple. It closed at noon Saturday, so 
had no opportunity of viewing the interior. 

I had eaten some lunch at a stand so didn't lose any 
time. By this time I was mighty tired and nearly frozen 
so I started back. Made a slight detour and passed 
another great church, a very magnificent affair, having a 
great dome and two immense towering pillars on either 
side. 

I had some trouble locating the streets, but finally made 
out all right and came upon the lodging place I had noticed 
in the morning, only to be told that there was "nothing 
doing/' Here I was again up against the same proposi- 
tion as in Prague, as in all my walking I hadn't seen a 
single sign of a lodging house of any kind. I walked 
around till 6, then being completely worn out I went to 
the station and started to figure it out. Didn't take me 
long to make up my mind to go straight for Venice. I 
had some supper, then went out in the corridor and hunted 
up a time-table to Trieste and discovered that I might 
still go there as I first intended, as I would have to pass 
within a few miles in going to Venice. Also discovered 
that there was a train at 10:30, and within a few seconds 
had made up my mind to go. I then had to do some hustling, 
having to take a car to the other side of the town. Luckily 
for me there was a branch postoffice in the station. Going 
in here I wrote a letter and some cards to Detroit, then 
as I would be in the train all the next day, I went out 
and hunted up a store and bought a lunch to take along, 
then just had a few minutes before my train started. 

NOVBMBEE 10. After a most miserable night, as I 
nearly froze, and I got very little sleep, at 6 I began to 
take notice of the country. 

The first stop was made at "Wildon. I could not help 
noticing how green the grass appeared at this place. The 



196 EBERFURTH 

next was Leibnitz. This is the first country where I have 
seen corn grown to any extent. Great quantities seem 
to be planted here, most of it still being in the field. The 
next place was Ehrenheiser. The country so far is gen- 
erally rolling, and some places quite hilly. At the last 
place we came out on the banks of a large river. 

Marburg, the next stop, is quite a city. "We made a 
twenty-five minute stop here for breakfast. At this point 
I quit keeping track of the towns, finding it too much 
bother. 

The scenery all along has been grand, as for upwards 
of 100 miles we followed the banks of the stream, great 
hills on either side sometimes almost shutting us in. 

The whole country is quite a contrast to Germany, the 
latter being almost one continuous city, whereas, here 
they have the real country, there being no places of any 
size all the distance from Vienna to Trieste. 

Vienna is within a few miles of the eastern boundary 
of Hungary, and I noticed by the map in this car that 
we crossed over the line at a place called Eberfurth so 
I can say I have been in Hungary. Just before coming 
to Franzdorf we crossed the valley by a very high bridge 
and I never saw anything more peaceful. 

"What ieems peculiar to me is the way the grass keeps 
so green. From this last place we started to climb, 
appearing to have to go over a range of hills as the valley 
appears to have sunk out of sight. 

At Verd, the next stop, we were right in the midst of 
a great spruce and hemlock forest. At Rakek we are 
still in the hills, but no forest here. The sun is shining 
bright and warm, and I notice people outside in their 
shirt-sleeves. This looks good to me. 

Adelsberg, the next, was a very fair sized town. Are 
still among the rocks and trees. At this place saw a 
couple of sailors hug and kiss each other. All along the 
line are shrines and altars. Between St. Peter and Divago 
we passed through a number of tunnels. 

We are now going down towards the sea, and all along 
here for miles as far as I can see the country is covered 
with rock. 



TRIESTE 197 

Nabrisino is quite a town and a junction.- Here a road 
goes to Italy and a short branch runs south to Trieste. 
We arrived at this place at 6. Had lunch which I had 
brought along with me just before arrival here and was 
ready to hunt for lodgings. 

I at once discovered by the signs the place I was in 
was an Italian instead of an Austrian city. This part of 
the country was at one time an Italian state, and most of 
the people speak Italian. I also noticed to my joy that 
I had also come upon a warmer climate. 

After wandering along at random for awhile I turned 
off into a side street, and shortly afterward thought that 
I must be in the streets of Cairo. It was pandemonium 
broke loose, the whole street seemed to be lined with cafes 
and picture shows. 

I walked up and down a couple of times rubbering and 
then asked a policeman to direct me to a lodging, but as 
usual was directed to a high priced hotel. 

Coming back I went into one of the cafes and the waiter 
gave me an address. This I finally located with the assist- 
ance of a passer-by, who proved to be a German who had 
spent three years in America. Although it was only 8 I 
turned in, as I had been up three nights in succession. 

NOVEMBER 11. After breakfast started out to find 
the postoffice. This is a fine building with a number of 
stone pillars and columns. I went in here and did some 
writing. On coming out and going around the building 
I saw the docks just in front. I went into the steamship 
office and got information in regard to boats crossing to 
Venice. I then went down to the docks and just let the 
beauty of the scene soak in. There was not a ripple on 
the w r ater and the sun was shining nice and w T arm. I felt 
as if I were in a different world to Prague and Vienna. 
After this I came to a state building of the province 
before which soldiers were parading. I next came to a 
canal and great open market. At this place everything 
imaginable was for sale. Near by was a fine church, 
the sides being decorated with a number of paintings and 
the top crowned with a great dome. The interior was 



198 TRIESTE 

nearly round. It was a Greek church, there just being 
one immense altar, in front of which were four great cande- 
labra. The dome and walls were almost covered with beau- 
tiful paintings. At the end of the canal was another 
great church, built after the Italian style, and the portico 
upheld by six massive stone pillars. Then the organ gal- 
lery was upheld by four brown marble pillars and along 
either side quite a distance apart were eight great white 
marble pillars supporting arches. On the walls were fine 
paintings of "All the Way to Calvary," and over the six 
smaller altars were great paintings representing Bible 
scenes. The main altar was covered by a dome-like canopy, 
supported by small marble columns. Behind this was 
another great painting, reaching around the wall. As I 
entered the service was in progress and I waited to enjoy 
the music. I could not help thinking, as I saw a peasant 
woman going in with a great basket perched on her head, 
of the democracy of these churches. A little farther on 
I came to a barracks, and no one stopping me, I went 
into the courtyard, looked around a little, then into the 
great field where the soldiers were drilling, and watched 
them for some time, until an officer came along and told 
me it was "interdict." A little farther along I came upon 
a beautiful square where the station I landed at last night 
is located. Here are two small parks surrounded by fine 
office buildings." In the center of one of the parks was a 
great monument, erected to honor Franz Josef. On one 
side was a great bronze figure of "Liberty." 

I then found my way back to a narrow street filled 
with cafes. Went into one of these and had dinner. After 
this I climbed a hill to a fine church. This not being open 
I continued climbing steps, and then steep narrow streets 
that a vehicle of any kind had never been over, until I 
came out upon a great plaza, a church on one side and 
small monuments in the center. There was a low wall 
enclosing the plaza and nearest the sea. I sat down here 
and admired the view. I then started to descend, passing 
a great number of small, old houses. Just before getting 
down to the street passed a building in course of erec- 
tion. In front were three small narrow wagons, built 



TRIESTE 199 

especially for the streets of this city. They were loaded 
with sand and were each drawn by one ox. A woman 
was carrying mortar in a tub to the masons. I watched 
this operation for some time. A little farther along I came 
upon a great area of steps, leading up, and started to 
investigate. There were fourteen stairways in all. At 
the top I found a street. A little way along a great pile 
of buildings were in course of erection. Here, among a 
great many men, twelve women were working, carrying 
mortar and brick. On coming down from here I came 
through a long tunnel which was about eighty rods in 
length and extended up near the docks. The tunnel was 
very high and lined with vitrified brick and must have 
cost a pretty penny to build. When I reached the docks 
I stood for some time watching barefooted men carrying 
sand up out of the hold of a barge. As it had clouded 
up and was now raining I went over to the great Lloyd 
building and located a reading room, found a London 
paper and read for awhile. I then wandered along the 
docks, passing the new six-story Excelsior Palace Hotel. 

"Went out on one of the docks and watched the loading 
of vessels for some time, then back to the steamship office 
where I looked up some maps. I just remember that it 
was seven months since I left Detroit. I was intending 
to go on to Venice by boat tomorrow, but I found out that 
I could not leave until Wednesday. If it is only fine 
tomorrow I will not regret this. At 6 I had supper and 
sat in the restaurant taking note of the crowd until 8, 
when I went out and took another stroll. Passed by a 
great restaurant and looked in at the bloated rich, then 
on to the postoffiee where I wrote for a few minutes. Next 
a short stroll along the Soriso, one of the principal streets. 
All along, the shop helps were putting down the corru- 
gated iron shutters that protect the windows. All the 
well-dressed women and girls I saw appeared to be very 
good looking. At 9 I went home and to bed. 

NOVEMBER 12. During the night there was a very 
heavy thunderstorm accompanied by wind and rain, and 
this morning it was still raining. After breakfast I 



200 TRIESTE 

started out and kept going until 12. I followed a street 
car track until I came out on the outskirts of the town. 
Passed through three different markets where I took notice 
of the crowd for some time. Going on a little farther I 
noticed the outfits of four different dames, three of these 
being small low wagons drawn by donkeys, the other a 
donkey loaded down with a great pack. I passed and met 
a great number of oxen and donkey outfits. In some cases 
the donkeys were hauling small wagons and in others were 
packing a load on their backs. In one street I came upon 
a hay market and some of the outfits were a comical sight. 
I do not suppose that any rack contained a load of more 
than half a ton. Oxen and donkeys were the principal 
power*. Just before I turned back I met a most pitiable 
outfit — a poor old woman, almost doubled over with age, 
driving a donkey loaded with a small pack. 

I came back a different road and on the way found a 
grand Jewish Synagogue, quite a large new building, 
built of light colored sandstone. The building was almost 
square, but rising above the main building like a battle- 
ment was a great tower almost half the size of the build- 
ing. A tremendous stained glass window was in the tower. 
Just on the other side was a very pretty little park. In 
front was a new monument of Rosetti and scattered 
around were several smaller monuments. In the center 
was a small lake in which were a number of black swans. 
I stopped a few minutes to watch them swim about, and 
then on to the station where I had a chance to sit down 
and do some writing. After this I went to my special 
restaurant for dinner. 

After watching the crowd for a few minutes started out 
again. It was still raining and I could see a long miserable 
afternoon ahead. I wandered down several streets and 
came to a station, went in the waiting room to warm up a 
little, and as it was raining steadily I stayed here until 
4, spending a miserable time. There being no heat in the 
building I nearly froze. At this time I sallied forth to 
procure a ticket for Venice and to change some money. 
On getting a ticket was told a boat would leave at 12 
tonight instead of in the morning. That looks like two 



TRIESTE 201 

months to me as I have no warm place to go. "Went on a 
little farther, changed my money, then plodded through 
the rain to the other station which was colder than the 
first. "Wrote a little, then settled down again to grin and 
bear it until I could go to supper. Stayed there until 6, 
then to the restaurant where, after supper, I watched the 
inmates until 7, then went to my lodging to tell them I 
would not be there for the night. Next went to the post- 
office for a few minutes, then took a long walk through 
the main street to a great tunnel and then through another 
tunnel I had not noticed before. I could not help thinking 
of the tremendous sum these two tunnels must have cost. 
I then went down to the boat only to find out that 1 
was up against a fine proposition. The place where I was 
supposed to hang out the rest of the night can be com- 
pared to a barn with a couple of doors open and no heat. 
I felt almost like jumping into the sea. I had one of 
three things to do — walk up and down all night, freeze to 
death or figure out some plan of keeping warm. The 
hatches were covered with great canvases and I conceived 
the brilliant idea of crawling under one of these. There 
was another young fellow along who could speak a little 
English, and he and I formed a partnership. We spread 
our overcoats down on the boards, pulled our undercoats 
over our heads and then pulled the canvases over our- 
selves. In this way we managed to keep from freezing, 
although I had not gotten to sleep when the boat pulled 
out at 12. 

NOVEMBER 13. Although far from comfortable, and 
freezing cold as it was, we had a thunderstorm toward 
daylight. What a wonderful sight was presented as we 
neared Venice — old palaces and churches galore ! The 
ship anchored out in the main canal and the passengers 
were taken ashore in gondolas. As we landed I remem- 
bered what I had read about these gondoliers arguing and 
quarreling over the price. The ship's officer had told me 
the proper fee and I left the gondolier arguing away. 

Where we landed was a very old place and a great 
structure called the Basilica. Across a great square was 



202 VENICE 

St. Mark's Cathedral. This must have been wonderfully 
magnificent when new, a myriad of towers, domes, statues, 
pillars, etc. The interior shows signs of age, but a great 
number of altars and paintings were very fine. On finish- 
ing here I plunged into one of the side streets and was 
soon completely lost in the great number of narrow, tor- 
tuous alleys and canals. I kept on until I came to a 
market, and on one side went into a small shop and had 
some breakfast, then started back toward the main canal, 
as I wanted to locate a station. I came upon another 
church, San Giovanola's. This is a small building and 
within were a great number of fine paintings. 

"Went a little farther and coming to the postoffice went 
in and wrote some cards for Detroit, then followed a 
branch canal to the Arsenal Museum. This contains a few 
relics of the time when Venice was one of the great ports 
of the world. The weather was fine — raining away. I 
then went back to the grand canal and followed it around 
a little farther to the Via Garibaldi, quite a wide street, 
and came to San Francisco's church. This contains nine 
splendid altars and a number of fine paintings. A little 
farther along was the Garibaldi Park. At the entrance 
crowning a pedestal of rough boulders was a fine statue 
of Garibaldi and a little farther along is a monument of 
Francis Oviro, the great Arctic explorer. Nearby was a new 
marble statue of Richard "Wagner. At the end of the park 
was a great beer and wine garden. 

Making a detour I came out upon the Campo of St. 
Peter. In the center was a great tower about 150 feet 
high. St. Peter's church was a fair sized building with 
a dome at the rear. There was a barracks adjacent and a 
number of soldiers were then unloading provisions from 
a gondola as I came along. I then went back through the 
park and had dinner in a small eating house. The room 
was about sixteen feet square and the cooking and every- 
thing was carried on in this small space. I had noticed 
something having the constituency of soft cheese which 
was called palenta. They were making it here and I dis- 
covered it was corn meal mush. On going out the sun 
was shining so I sat down on a seat in front of the park 



VENICE 203 

and allowed it to soak in a few minutes while I did some 
writing, but this was too good to last, and in a few min- 
utes it was raining once more. I then made my way back 
to the Campo and took another survey of the place, and 
judge there must be twenty grand paintings on the out- 
side of the church. Around the palace are 165 great col- 
umns which support two upper stories, this part of the 
building coming out flush with the street. This leaves a 
great covered walk all the way around. There must be 
fifty stores on the lower floor and the upper part is given 
over to apartments. 

Next I walked for a couple of miles along the grand 
canal and stopped in at a small church, the San Maria. 
This had seven alt-ars besides a number of fine paintings. 
I kept going around many narrow streets until I came out 
on the Campo Delia Salute and here was a wonderfully 
grand church, the Delia Salute. It was almost round with 
a number of great pillars at the entrance, one great and 
another smaller dome. There were six grand inferior 
altars. In alcoves were large paintings and at either side 
smaller ones. The great altar was a magnificent affair 
and what was unusual the organ was behind the altar. 
The large dome is in the front center and the small over 
the large altar. 

The next building was the custom house. On top was 
a great golden globe upheld by bronze figures and crowned 
by another bronze figure. After inspecting this I tried to 
see if I could get back a shorter way and managed to do so. 
Some of these narrow streets appear like tunnels. On 
nearing the Campo San Marco once more I took another 
plunge and followed what seemed to be a busy street for 
some distance, making a circuit and landing back once 
more at the Campo Marco. It was then only 4:30 and 
I was completely tired out and yet there was no place of 
any kind where I could go and rest and warm up — no 
station even, that being some distance away on another 
island. As the next best I went into a postoffice (it was 
as cold as a barn) and wrote for awhile. I am certainly 
getting tired of this game of freeze-out and am going to 
keep moving on toward Some unless weather conditions 



204 MILAN 

change. I stayed in the office for a while and then went 
to a restaurant, took a long walk bnt it was still early, 
then another walk. 

After supper I located a boat which finally landed me 
at the station, but I w T as no better off as it contained no 
waiting room except the lobby and this was as cold as out- 
side. I had to wait around until 9 when I procured a 
ticket and went aboard a train but even then it was some 
time before I warmed up. Started at 9 :30 for Milan. 

NOVEMBER 14. I had a compartment to myself until 
we reached Verona, when a whole drove of Italians came 
aboard. The car being warm I obtained a few hours 
sleep before we arrived in Milan at 7. I can see the same 
experience ahead of me as in Venice — slow freezation. 

As I intend pulling out at 5 this evening, I started 
promptly at 8 to see something of the town. Just 
a short distance from the station is a fine avenue running 
for nearly a mile alongside of a park. At the outer edge 
was an embankment to about fifty feet from the street. 
All along on either side of a roadway was a collection of 
sideshows and booths. I continued along till I came to 
the Francesca church. The altars of this were quite plain, 
but it contained a number of fine paintings. I turned off 
this street and down another, passing San Pietro's church. 
This was a very large church built of brick. The appear- 
ance of the interior was fine, the pillars and arches being a 
combination of cement and different colored brick. This 
church contained a number of fine paintings, besides a few 
stained glass windows. Alongside was a large burying 
ground. This was literally filled with crosses. Near by 
was a great wholesale market. I spent a few minutes 
here noting the different articles offered for sale, then 
turned back and came to Victor Place, where there is a 
fine monument, A little farther along, getting a view of 
a spire, I kept going till I came upon what is the main 
attraction of this place, the great Cathedral Duom. It is 
certainly wonderfully magnificent. Upon the top are 
three rows of small steeples crowned with figures, then 
in the center is a larger one crowned with a golden figure. 



MILAN 205 

There are more than 150 of these steeples. As I came 
around to the front I noticed a great crowd reaching half 
a block. Part were going into the church. On going in- 
side I found that the funeral procession of the Archbishop 
of Milan was to come into the church, and I stood up and 
waited with the rest for nearly an hour in order to see it. 

There must have been at least a thousand people who 
filed by and upwards of one hundred banners were carried. 
Those in the procession comprised cardinals, archbishops, 
bishops, priests, nuns, choir boys, students, etc. Last of 
all appeared the coffin. This was carried on the shoulders 
of men. After watching this I took a good look at the 
interior. There are three great rows of pillars dividing 
the space into four corridors. There must be fifty mag- 
nificent stained glass windows. On either side of the 
great corridor were eighteen tapestry paintings, thirty-six 
in all. Eighteen large ones above and eighteen smaller 
ones below. The main altar was a dream of beauty. 

On coming out I w T ent all around the building, taking 
in its beauty as much as I could, then went across and 
around several great stores, there being a covered passage- 
way running in four directions. This is called the Victor 
Emmanuel. 

I then had dinner, afterwards coming upon another fair 
sized church, having fourteen great pillars at the en- 
trance and being crowned by a small dome. This is named 
San Carlos. 

I then went on to the Via Dante. At the end of this 
street is a great monument, crowned by an equestrian 
statue of Garibaldi. Just beyond this is the Castello 
Sforzerco, a great structure built round a square. A part 
of this is divided off into smaller squares. The building is 
about seventy-five feet high and built of brick. At either 
corner is a great stone fortress, and over the main entrance 
a brick tower in four parts — the first three square and 
the last round. Within the second tower was a great 
clock, the third a chime of bells, and the top is used as an 
observation station. A marble plaque of King Humbert 
on horseback was above the entrance. Around the outside 
was a great moat and within the yard was a collection 



206 BOLOGNA 

of old cannon, etc. In the rear was a fine park, and on 
the farther side a great arch, something like the "Tri- 
umphal" arch in Paris, but not near as large. There is 
one grand arch and two smaller ones. On top was a 
bronze figure standing in a chariot drawn by six horses. 
On either side were two equestrian bronze figures. On one 
side were a number of inscriptions. Beyond this was a 
large building used as an orphans' asylum. 

I then turned back and on coming to the Duom went 
in and took one last look around. Then I headed for the 
station, passing another fine building, the Historical 
Museum. 

I came out upon the great circus outfit I had seen in 
the morning. This was now in full blast and I spent the 
time I could spare till train time taking notice of the dif- 
ferent attractions. 

At 5 I started on another night's trip to Florence. At 
11 :30 we arrived at Bologna. This trip was one long 
misery. The car was not heated to start with, and for 
more than half the distance several of the windows were 
open. The last couple of hours was slow " f reezation. ' ' 

On arriving at Bologna I had one and a half hours to 
wait. Although it was raining I went out and saw some- 
thing of the place. 

NOVEMBER 15. At 1 I left Bologna, and this time the 
car was heated and I snatched a couple of hours' sleep 
before arriving at Florence at 6. Every time the train 
stopped, I could hear the rain pattering down and it made 
me anticipate with joy my walk and trip around the 
streets of Florence. On arrival I went into the waiting 
room and stayed until 8, when I started out. In the corner 
of the small waiting room was a diminutive fireplace on 
which chunks of wood were burning. As I was sitting here 
looking into the fire, if I could wish for anything and it 
would be mine, one thing above all others I would wish 
for would be that at about 5 this evening I could walk 
into the home of a friend, have a hot bath, change of 
clothes, good supper, a couple of hours' conversation and 
then roll into a comfortable bed. This would be Heaven 



FLORENCE 207 

enough to me at present. The first place I ran into was 
an eating stall where I had breakfast. Then I wandered 
through the market and came upon the sight of Florence — 
St. Michael 's Cathedral, a huge building with a great tower 
at one end of the front corners and a great dome at the 
rear. It was built of stone and a very pretty effect was 
given by the different colors and mosaic work. It looks some- 
thing like some sarcophagi I have seen. Right in front was 
a chapel. Here is the Lorenzo door, a copy of which I saw 
in Paris and Berlin. The inside was very plain and dark, 
there being a few altars and stained glass windows. A little 
farther on I came out on the Emmanuel Victor Plaza, In 
the center was a great monument to him and at one side 
was a great portal. Going on I came out on the Pallaza, 
on one side of which was the Pallaza Vicchio. This is 
an immense stone fortress and is now used for government 
purposes. It has a grand tower and in front are three 
great statues of ancients. Across from one corner was a 
great open portico in which were a number of figures and 
statues. Just beyond this I came upon a river, a very 
muddy looking stream. I walked along the bank, bring- 
ing up at the Piazza St. Crace, a great long square. In 
the center was a fine statue of Dante. At one end is an- 
other fine church, different colored marble being used on 
the outside, giving a very beautiful effect. The interior 
was fine. On one side was a number of great groups in 
marble and paintings in between. There were some fine 
windows and several very fine altars. 

After this I took a long walk across the river by the 
bridge that had small shops on either side of the road- 
way. "Went along the river until I came upon the San 
Maria church. Had a very plain looking interior, contain- 
ing fifteen beautiful altars, most of them having a fine 
painting as a background. Then another church not as 
large but very old, appears to have been built of small rough 
stone. I certainly had a surprise when I went inside as 
it was larger than it looked to be. The interior was very 
beautiful, being all white with fine paintings the whole 
length of the ceiling, and then there were five altars that 
were truly superb. Continuing I then came out on the 



208 FLORENCE 

river where there was quite a fall. As it was now after 
12 I hunted up a place to eat and found a small stall 
across from where they make all kinds of statuary. Three 
other men who were there ate at the same table. After 
eating and resting a few minutes I again went out to the 
river near the fall and stood for a while watching a young 
fellow fishing for minnows with a net, then on a little 
farther coming upon part of an ancient wall of the city 
and then a great portal. Old gates were still hanging. I 
went out this gateway and about a mile to the outskirts, 
meeting a great number of vehicles loaded for the market. 
These were all two-wheeled, large and small, drawn by 
donkeys, ponies and horses and loaded with all kinds of 
produce. I then came back part way and crossed the 
river on the bridge. I met a drove of hogs of the razor- 
back variety, the first I had seen on the continent. On 
gaining the other side I followed the river back for a 
couple of miles. There was a fine white gravel walk, bor- 
dered by hedges, and seats scattered along, then a wide 
roadway, next a high hedge and on the other side a beau- 
tiful park. I came back through the park which was 
fine, having grounds for all kinds of sports. "Went along 
a narrow street until I finally brought up at the station 
where I sat down and rested my poor feet while I wrote 
and watched the crowd. Then I took another w r alk and 
bought some food for supper and back to the station for 
only a short time to wait for my train to Rome at 6. 
Between then and 12, on three separate occasions, when 
I was warm enough to go to sleep I was routed out to go 
on ahead. As these cars were crowded had my same old 
annoyance, when my teeth were chattering, there would 
be half a dozen windows and doors open. 

Just after 12 we came to a small place called Overideo 
and were dumped off here to stay until after 6. 

NOVEMBER 16. On landing at this place half a dozen 
of us went into the waiting room only to find it as cold 
as an ice-house. There was a crockery fireplace at one 
side, but no fire, and a pane of glass out of one of the 
doors. It looked like a pleasant prospect spending several 
hours here. 



ROME 209 

I walked about the town awhile, then went into another 
waiting room and laid down on a sofa with my overcoat 
dver my head trying to get warm, but could not stand it. 
1 then went to the other crowd, where, among the belong- 
ings, I spied an axe, and by signs I finally got one of them 
busy making up some kindling wood, and we finally got 
the fire started, but the place never got warm. It would 
only get warm on one side at a time. I stuck right along- 
side this place until the train came along. 

The car which I entered was like a cold storage vault — 
no heat whatever. The compartment I got into at first 
had a number of these crazy-headed people who had to 
pull down the windows every time we stopped, and I 
changed into another which I had all to myself. 

It w T as now light enough to see and I tried to interest 
myself in the scenery. "We seemed to be following a 
valley, and it was generally pretty hilly, although in some 
places there was quite a strip of cultivated land, mostly 
orchards. 

At a place called Orve we made quite a long stop, a 
through train from Venice passing us here. It was a slow 
train — we didn't arrive in Eome until 10:30. 

On leaving the station I lost, no time in obtaining some- 
thing to eat, then started out on the tramp, wandering 
around and finally coming out on a great square where 
Cook's office was situated. Going in I inquired the way 
to the Methodist church as I knew there was one in the 
city. I had to take a car and ride and ride until I was 
finally dropped down at the door of the church, but this 
didn't help me out any as the place was locked up and no 
address of the pastor on the outside. 

On the venture I went into a store next door, and the 
proprietor just knew enough English to inform me the 
church would be open at night and there would be a num- 
ber of people there who spoke English. I then went back 
over my trail, stopped in a place and had something to 
eat, and a little farther on came out upon a great monu- 
ment to Victor Emmanuel II. The interior is not com- 
pleted as yet and visitors are not allowed to enter. The 
outside is wonderful and beautiful beyond description. 



210 ROME 

In the front center were fifty steps, about seventy-five feet 
in length, leading to a platform, and all the way around, 
which must be all of 400 feet, was an ornamental wall of 
marble. In the front center was a great marble platform 
about tw T enty feet high, and to crown it all a gigantic 
golden equestrian statue to Victor Emmanuel. 

Around the outer wall were marble statues and groups. 
There was a foundation building about thirty feet high, 
then twenty-two fine marble columns supporting a great 
colonnade with porticos at either end. Within the colon- 
nade and porticos was a frieze dome in gold on the outside 
and above the columns was a facade with small figures all 
along. Outside the porticos on either side were two fine 
marble columns crowned with golden angels. 

A block farther in another square was a small old 
church with a tremendous dome. This was not open. In 
the center of this square was a pit about 200 feet in cir- 
cumference and about ten feet deep. This was filled with 
broken columns. On one side was a great column about 
100 feet high on a rough stone foundation crowned by a 
bronzed figure of St. Peter. Running up and around this 
.column are twenty-three friezes representing scenes in 
Roman history. 

A little farther on was a great old square tower next 
to the Church of St. Mary; next to this was a grand 
building which I thought must be a monument until I saw 
a sign "Bank of Italy. " This was a huge three story 
building with a great number of columns and two different 
groups of figures. On top a little farther along I noticed 
a Y. M. C. A. sign and went in to see if I could gain any 
information in regard to lodgings, but got no satisfaction. 
I then made a detour and came out on the Piazza del 
Quirinal. In the center was a great monument topped 
by a cross and on every side great figures of horses. On 
one side, extending for considerable distance, was a great 
pile of buildings. These look like barracks but proved to 
be a palace. They were on a slight eminence and a good 
view of the city was obtained from this point. 

Going back towards St. Peter's I came to San Maria 
des Grazzi. This has a very old weather-beaten exterior 



EOME 211 

Lat hides a wonderfully beautiful interior. There were 
six small altars, three of which were simply grand. The 
walls were faced with marble and brass. The ceiling and 
dome were covered with paintings, and the altars were a 
mass of marble, bronze and brass, surrounded by paintings. 

Next I came upon San Maria Vittoria, a very large 
church having a massive dome. This had grand and more 
grand magnificent altars and great marble columns faced 
with brass, between each altar, and the ceilings and dome 
were covered with paintings. From here I went back to 
the Y. M. C. A. and this time obtained information in 
regard to lodgings. 

I then went a little farther, coming out on the banks 
of the Tiber. At this point I went into another church — 
Sam Pratia. This was crowded with seven fine altars on 
either side. On the main altar were gigantic paintings. I 
then strolled along the banks of the Tiber, crossed the 
first bridge I came to and came back on the other side. 
The river is almost like a canal, both sides being walled in 
with stone, this wall being about three feet above the 
street. 

After this I went to a hotel, had supper and wrote and 
observed the crowd until 9 when I turned in. 

| H : *!|| - * ■ : ;j ! -n.,"'— ; i" \ IT~ f ' ![ ! ! 

NOVEMBER 17. After breakfast started for church. 
Getting there a little early, I read one of the Detroit 
papers I had received. The church was quite large and 
there were probably fifty present. As the service was in 
Italian, I did not get much good out of it. At the end 
I had a few words with an American, then went back to 
the Victor Emmanuel Monument, having dinner at a small 
place to one side. As the monument was now open to the 
public, I gave this a thorough inspection and took in a 
fine view to be obtained from the floor of the great cor- 
ridor. The main sight was a great number of domes, St. 
Peter's among the rest. Coming down I followed a street 
car track to St. Peter's, this being about a mile away. I 
crossed the Tiber by a bridge, at the other end of which 
were two great monuments and pedestals, crowned by 
bronze angels. At a quarter distance each way were two 



212 ROME 

great ancient groups and along on either side three small 
shafts. Up the river on the other side of another bridge 
were ruins of the old Colosseum. From the end of the 
bridge I passed down a narrow dirty street until I came 
out upon a great square. About 500 feet from the door 
of the church, with the entrance to each about 200 feet 
apart, two great covered ways start and run in a kind of 
semicircle, to the sides of the Cathedral. The roof of 
each is upheld by about 250 pillars and columns, these 
being fifty feet in height. There are four rows, leaving 
three inside passages, one for vehicles and the other two 
for pedestrians. Around the outer edge of the top were 
figures of ancient churchmen. In the square on either side 
were great plain fountains and in the center a plain stone 
column with a cross at the top. The front of the church 
had that old worn-out appearance common to most of these 
buildings. It was about 200 feet wide and 100 feet high, 
square up and down. There were five entrances, three 
sections of steps leading up to these. At the top of either 
front corner was a great clock. Below the left corner 
clock was a collection of bells. Along the top were six- 
teen figures, twelve standing and four sitting, these sup- 
porting the clocks on either side. Six columns upheld the 
canopy of the first entrance. Compared with some of the 
other great churches there was nothing striking or very 
beautiful about the exterior. A great dome seems to be 
situated well toward the rear. I wrote the foregoing 
description while sitting on the sunny side of the base 
of one of the columns upholding the passage. It was just 
warm enough to be pleasant. All along these columns 
were men, women and children, mostly of the poorer 
class. "While I had been sitting there the bells had been 
ringing merrily. On entering the building the wonderful 
grandeur of the magnificent interior almost took away my 
breath, used as I am by this time to wonderful sights. I 
estimated the length at 800 feet, and unlike St. Paul's 
and Westminster in London, however dingy the exterior 
may appear, there was nothing dingy about the interior, 
it being one mass of beauty. I would think it would be 
necessary to use axes to drive artists out of a place like 



EOME 213 

this. On either side of the main corridor were seven great 
masses of marble supporting arches, crossing the corridor 
aiid between each other. Some were considerably larger 
than others and had altars or statues built into them. In 
the center, under a great dome, was the main altar, cov- 
ered by a magnificent canopy and upheld by serpentine 
pillars. These were carved and are made of bronze. On 
top at the corners were golden angels. In the center of a 
small platform, supported by bronze stringers, running up 
from the corner, was a golden globe surmounted by a 
cross. In front of this altar, was a pit twenty-five feet 
square, surrounded by a fence, the lower and upper flat 
parts of white marble and the posts of brown. A beau- 
tiful double stairway led to the bottom where in the 
recess were kept the vessels ^pertaining to the main 
altar. All around the fence were beautiful vessels con- 
taining incense and were lighted. At the extreme 
end of this corridor was another beautiful altar. On 
either side, on huge marble pedestals, were great bronze 
figures of St. Peter dressed as Bishop of Rome. On 
the pedestal were the keys, mitre, etc., and over the altar 
was a half canopy and the two front corners supported by 
golden angels, and on top were other angels. Back of 
these was a small round window in the center of which 
was an image of Dives. At this point in my observations 
I had to quit as the church was about to be closed. On 
first entering I spent half an hour listening to the beau- 
tiful music and singing of a service and noting those who 
were taking part. I counted what I afterwards found out 
to be forty-eight different high dignitaries of the church, 
part of these being cardinals. 

Those in the upper rows wore white mantles and in the 
lower row fur mantles of some kind. To the side of center 
between those two sets were four priests, and what I took 
for an archbishop, but afterwards found was the Pope. 
He was dressed in a magnificent robe and had a great hat 
upon his head. 

On coming out of the building I sat down at the foot 
of one of the great columns and tried to write up a descrip- 
tion of this place, then went on toward my lodging. 



214 ROME 

I continued along till I came to the main street, Via 
Nazionale. It was a beautiful evening and the sidewalks 
were literally crowded with people. I passed dozens of 
great cafes where thousands of people were sitting outside 
eating and drinking. 

It was 7 before I reached the hotel and I spent the rest 
of the evening till 9 writing. 

NOVEMBER 18. Took a long walk, getting breakfast 
on the way. After about a mile I came to the Piazza Delia 
Trinite de Monti, a great roadway and a walk part of the 
way cut out of the side of a hill. On going to the top of 
the hill all along the way a low wall ran along the outer 
edge and below were terraces, gardens and orchards, which 
were very beautiful. I began to believe I must be in a 
fairly warm country when I saw a number of orange and 
lemon trees growing here. It made me think of Southern 
California. As the higher level was reached it widened 
out into a beautiful park. At one point was a kind of a 
balcony that juts out over the street a hundred feet below, 
and a beautiful view of the city was obtained from this 
point. St. Peter's was directly opposite, probably a mile 
away, and there were all kinds of churches and great 
buildings of every kind in sight. All around as a back- 
ground were the hills and the open country and to make 
it more beautiful the sun was shining bright and warm. 

After this I continued on around the park and then out 
into another. This seemed just like a natural bit of forest. 
In the center were the ruins of an old race course or 
sports ground. At the entrance to another park were 
the ruins of an old portal. The outer columns and two 
pillars in the center upholding part of the facade were 
all that were standing. 

Going through another small park the Zoo is reached, 
but as I had seen a number of these I didn't bother 
going in. 

I went on a little farther till I came out upon the open 
country and thought I had gone far enough for this time. 
There being* no cars out in this neck of the woods I had 
to walk back. Going back a different way I came upon 



ROME 215 

o^ie of the old roads used by the ancient Romans. As I 
was walking along I tried to picture some of the great 
emperors riding along the same road in a chariot, but the 
autos whisking by dispelled the illusion. 

At last I came to what was once one of the gates of the 
city. At the present time on either side of the great iron 
gates are small porticos upheld by four columns and four 
pillars. Over the facade of one is the following: 
"Prophylaca, Pylona, Arcun, Pontes and Extensit." A 
little farther on I passed through another great portal 
and just to the left was the church St. Maria de Rosio. It 
was a small church, but the interior was crowned with 
fifteen grand altars, each in a separate alcove. The con- 
trast was great between the old worn stone pillars and the 
beautiful marble fittings of the altar. There was a marble 
fence or gateway to each and grand paintings as a back- 
ground. At this point there was a great square. Above 
was the place where I was sitting while observing the 
splendid view a while back. In the center of the square 
was a great monument, at the four corners of which were 
lions spurting water from their mouths. The monument 
had a great shaft of marble covered with hieroglyphics 
and crowned by an iron cross. Looking up towards the 
park at the top there were three terraces, one above the 
other, and all around the two sides of squares was a wall 
ten feet high, which is covered with figures and groups. 
On the open side five different streets debouch. On two 
corners were churches almost alike, both small. In each 
six great pillars upheld a grand entranceway and each 
had a great dome and belfry. Over the entrance of one 
were the words "Heir S. R. E., P. R., Card, Castaldue." 
This square was the Piazza Del Popolo, one of the finest 
in Rome. 

Going into one of the side streets I had dinner in a 
small eating house. After resting a little I came out and 
took another street leading toward St. Peter's. It was 
now so warm I had to shed my overcoat. Going a short 
distance I came upon the river. Just before this I met a 
company of soldiers who were wearing queer headgear — 
a low-crowned, wide-brimmed hat, like a priest's with a 



216 ROME 

great bunch of rooster feathers on one side. I have seen 
others with the same kind of a hat, but they had just one 
feather sticking up. 

Along the river was a kind of boulevard. Near the 
edge of the roadway across the bridge was a monument. 
I sat down awhile here and let the sun soak into me while 
I did a little writing and watched the passers-by. A 
couple of men came along pushing a cart loaded down 
with brush tied up in small bundles. In all other con- 
tinental countries I have seen men and women working 
as beasts of burden in this manner, they being cheaper 
than donkeys in this country. 

Crossing the bridge and coming to a cross street I 
noticed a great building to the left and started to investi- 
gate. In the center was a great monument with six ancient 
figures around the side, and on top a statue of Camillo 
Cavour. Around the square were a great bank, hotel, 
theater and an immense and beautiful building which 
proved to be the Supreme Court. A long flight of steps 
led up to the entrance and there was a great fountain on 
either side. Several great columns upheld the porticos. 

The whole outside of the front of the three floors was 
columns, pillars, cornices and fancy work of all kinds. 
The whole interior was a dream of beauty and grandeur. 
I went around the two great inner corridors and they 
were one mass of great columns, pillars and fluted work. 
In the center of the court was a great monument. Around 
were a number of statues of old Roman lawyers and there 
was also a great standing figure of "Justice." The build- 
ing had two fine entrances, the main one facing the river. 

After this I followed along the river a couple of blocks 
coming upon Castel de Angelo, and this certainly did look 
like a castle. A great round massive pile, like an immense 
tower, surrounded by great thick walls. As I wanted to go 
on and finish at St. Peter's I didn't stop at this place. 

In m-y description yesterday I left off at the end of the 
main corridor, and in describing the pit of the main altar 
didn't note that there was a grand carpet on the floor, 
fine tapestry around the walls and a great kneeling marble 
figure of a priest in front of the receptacle for the vessels. 



EOME 217 

Besides the main altars there were twenty-nine others, 
magnificent beyond description, most of the main alcoves 
having small domes above. There were all kinds of beau- 
tiful marble and mosaic work and a magnificent painting 
as a background for each. Along the two inner corridors 
were great columns, the same as along the great corridor. 
All along were grand figures and groups. Most of the ceil- 
ing was decorated in white and gold. There were paint- 
ings around the smaller domes, and of course the grand 
dome was the work of Michael Angelo. On either side of 
this dome were a number of confessional boxes, one for 
each of the following nationalities : German, Hungarian, 
Greek, Spanish, French, Flemish, Galacian and English. 
Most of the altars were named after a Pope, and the fig- 
ures and groups represent some Pope or St. Peter. 

"While I was there a service was going on as yesterday. 
At 4 a procession was formed, with the Pope at the head, 
and they went around blessing all the altars. The Pope's 
great mitre fairly sparkled with gems, and a young priest 
held up the train of his grand robe. Every time they 
stopped one of the priests removed the great hat, and then 
put it back as they started. 

Against one of the great columns was a figure of St. 
Peter in a sitting posture. A great number of people were 
continually passing and as they did so they kissed one of 
his feet. 

I stayed till 5 drinking in all the beauty of this the 
grandest church in the world. It is too grand for me to 
describe. 

On going out I took a walk around and then headed 
toward the hotel, having supper on the way and observing 
the crowd as I went along, it being 8 before I got to the 
hotel. I then read and wrote till 9 when I went to bed. 

NOVEMBER 19. After breakfast went down to the 
Y. M. C. A., stopping in a few minutes looking for informa- 
tion, then continued on until I came to the British and 
Foreign Bible Society rooms. Here I obtained some in- 
formation in regard to Parcels Post regulations. I next 
continued along until I came to the Vatican gallery. 



218 ROME 

This is around to the left behind St. Peter's church. I 
just got here at 10, passing by most of the Vatican build- 
ings on the way. There was nothing imposing about the 
entrance to the gallery, but on ascending to the first floor 
I came upon a magnificent lobby dedicated to Pius VI. 

In the center was a grand piece of mosaic work. On 
either side was what appeared to be a gigantic sarcoph- 
agus of brown marble. On the outside were a great many 
figures. These were upheld by four lions and four tigers 
respectively. At the head of the steps were two mottled 
sphinxes. 

At the entrance to Pius V. 's room two great figures on 
mottled marble pedestals uphold a fine portico. Around 
the first room were a number of statues and figures. 

The second room was a dream of beauty. On the floor 
all but a narrow space around the sides was railed in and 
covered with mosaic work. In the center of this and upheld 
by bronze lion-like legs was a great marble basin appear- 
ing for all the world like a huge butter plate. This was 
about twenty feet in diameter, and made of brown marble. 
Twelve great fluted columns of white marble divided it 
into alcoves. Two of these were the entrance and exit, 
and the others contained immense statues of ancients. 

In front of each column was a white marble post on a 
low, circular, brown marble pedestal. There was also a 
great dome which was decorated in white and gold. There 
were several other fine rooms of this kind and then a 
couple larger rooms filled with old Egyptian work. 

The next was a very long gallery, both walls covered 
with sculpture. This leads to the pontifical apartments 
Borgia. Six rooms are thrown open to visitors. These 
were all used at one time by different popes. 

The first was quite large, about fifty feet square. 
Around the walls were two old-fashioned chairs. Around 
the three inside walls were several pieces of tapestry and 
the ceiling was decorated with fine paintings. 

The second room was small and the walls very dingy 
looking, the upper part running into the ceiling being 
decorated with six fine paintings. There was one bronze 
bust on a circular mottled blue marble pedestal. 



EOME 219 

The third was a fine old room. The walls were covered 
with wooden mosaic above which were three fine pieces of 
tapestry; then above this running into the ceiling were 
five great paintings and the ceiling was beautifully dec- 
orated. On either side were slender shafts of marble sup- 
porting urns. On the floor against the wall were ten old 
chests. The walls of four were decorated in old stone 
mosaic. At one side was an old fireplace, and on the 
upper wall were six fine paintings, and the ceiling was 
beautifully decorated. In the room were two great cab- 
inets containing plate. 

The walls of the fifth were covered with tapestry above 
which were twelve paintings representing scenes from the 
Bible. The ceiling was decorated in white and gold. On 
the floor around the wall were five beautiful gold covered 
settees, also five chairs. There were two small bronze 
statuettes, on small marble pedestals. There was also a fine 
inlaid cabinet and a marble bust on a mottled marble 
pedestal of Pius II. 

The walls of the sixth, excepting for one piece of 
tapestry, were covered with a beautiful gold paper. 
Above were twelve paintings similar to those in room five. 
The ceiling was decorated with small scenes. There was 
a fireplace on one side, three old chairs, three wonderful 
pieces of furniture presented to Leo XIII in 1887, two 
chests of drawers besides a great china cabinet. On these 
are a wonderful specimen of inlaid work. 

On finishing here, it being nearly 1 o'clock, I went out, 
being a little sore as I had come especially to see a picture 
gallery and had wandered in the wrong place, although 
of course the sight of the Vatican apartments I would 
have missed if I had not come to this place. 

After getting something to eat I went along an old 
narrow street for quite a distance and then came back to 
the river which appeared to run entirely around the city. 
I passed a couple of bridges and turned off when I came 
to a street car line and followed this to a long road out 
to a suburban station. All along to the right was a 
great hill which seemed to form a boundary line of the 
city. 



220 ROME 

It was raining a little most of the time, but a few min- 
utes before I gained the station the sun came out and I 
then shed my overcoat. 

On coming to the station, being quite tired, I went in 
and rested while I did some writing. I then went back 
for a short distance and climbed a great stairway to the 
top of a hill, and a wonderful view of most of the city and 
valley of the river was obtained from this point. 

Eome is spoken of as a city of seven hills. It looked 
from this point as if there must have been fifty. Still 
higher up there seemed to be, in the suburbs, a great many 
places either being built or nearly finished. 

Going along a little ways I came to a road leading up 
and followed it. To the right was an old high brick wall 
with portholes along the top. Continuing along for half 
a mile turned sharply to the right, still following the 
wall. Here on the right was a small store. Following this 
wall a little farther I came to the Castlo Romano. At this 
point I stopped and it was very easy to let my mind go 
back to ancient times. It was absolutely quiet — not a 
soul in sight. 

Suddenly I came to two great portals. Choosing the 
one in front of me I found myself in a beautiful park. To 
the left of the hill was a small grove, and in this a small 
temporary looking building used as a school. Another 
splendid view is obtained from this point, St. Peter's 
church being only a short distance away. 

Continuing on I came out on a great open space, and in 
the center, crowning a great granite pedestal, on a mass of 
the same stone, was an equestrian statue of Garibaldi. 
Around the four sides of the pedestal were fine bronze 
groups. On either side in the park were marble busts of 
noted Romans on pedestals. 

A little farther along I came upon a great monument 
of marble having the appearance of a lighthouse, there 
being a great lamp on the top. Not far ahead I reached 
the end of the park and began to descend, finally coming 
out near a bridge that I crossed going to St. Peter's. I 
then headed for home, having supper on the way, and got 
back at 7, when I w r rote and read until bedtime. 



SOME 221 

NOVEMBER 20. After breakfast headed for the Vat- 
ican Gallery. I may say that I am stopping at a large hotel 
near the Central station. Immediately in front is a fine 
small park. On the other side, the Via Nazionale, the 
principal street of the city begins. A great number of 
fine stores and hotels and offices line this street, A few 
blocks down is a great building used for exposition pur- 
poses. On the way down I had breakfast, and it being 
fine and warm, I consumed so much time on the way that 
it was 10:30 before I brought up at the gallery. Here 
were a number of fine paintings by Rafael, Angelo and 
others, but the collection would no more compare with the 
Louvre than the day with the night. The Vatican propo- 
sition has put me in mind of a fake side show, where the 
spieler outside tells you of all the wonderful things you 
will see for a dime. You pay your dime, go in and prob- 
ably you will see one or two attractions, then you run up 
against another dime to pay. The Louvre was absolutely 
free and I would have willingly paid out five dollars be- 
fore I would have missed that great collection. 

While here there was a franc entrance fee for each of 
the two galleries, and if it were not for the name I would 
not have gone in if it had been free. On coming out I 
walked back as far as the open market I had passed in 
the morning, where I had dinner in a small eating house. 
In this country wine is generally used by all. The first 
place I went into they refused to serve me when I would 
not take wine. After dinner I strolled along the river. 
It was simply grand, the sun being nice and warm. It 
appeared to be wash day as clothes were hanging up all 
along the narrow streets. , As in most of these cities there 
were no alleys or back yards. 

Passed a number of fine apartment buildings and a 
great Hebrew Synagogue. A little farther along I left 
the river and went down to a great square, to one side of 
the ruin of what looked to be an old fort. Around the 
outside were eighteen old weather beaten pillars, appar- 
ently about ready to fall apart. On another side is what 
looks like a part of an old temple. This was used as a 
leanto for another building. Next was an old church with 



222 EOME 

a great square tower. I then came upon a huge modern 
building where they make macaroni. 

A little farther on, another old church and next to this 
the sight of a lifetime — the ruins of the Palace of Caesar. 
These must cover at least one hundred acres of ground 
and are not modernized in any way, the old buildings 
being left to fall and decay at their sweet will. It was a 
wonderful sight and beyond my powers of description. It 
needs to be seen to be appreciated. Where I first came 
upon it, it backs up against a hill and great sections of 
the walls are still standing, but scattered all over this 
area are pillars and columns and pieces of these by the 
hundreds. It shows how the city fathers of this place 
appreciate the ancient, as these ruins are just back of the 
Piazza Venezia, where the great Victoria Immanuel monu- 
ment is situated. This is within a few blocks of the center 
of the city. Across from the one part is a small church 
crowned with a great dome. This is St. Luke's. The 
interior is taken up with four great alcoves and the dome, 
one alcove for the entrance and the others for three great 
altars. Each has a splendid painting as a background. 
At the side of one is a great painting that seems out of 
place. It depicts four ox teams and a man on horseback, 
traveling, apparently along the seashore. Immediately 
in front of the church stands a great portal, having three 
entrances. I should have stated that all the ruins are at 
least thirty feet below what is now the street level. 

Continuing on around, I came upon the old Colosseum. 
This is more than 2000 years old. There appeared to be 
four floors, on three of these arches. There were windows 
all the way around. Although showing distinct evidences 
of decay, most of the wall is still standing. Going down, 
I went within an old amphitheater, where the early 
Christians were fed to lions. The dungeons where the 
Christians were kept and the cages of the lions were still 
to be seen. The Emperor's box is also pointed out. I 
sat down in this place and wrote a number of post cards, 
which I intended sending to Detroit. I have thought 
since coming upon the ruins of the Palace and the Col- 
osseum that if I had seen nothing else, I would be amply 



ROME 223 

repaid for time and money spent on my whole trip. At 
5 I started for my usual supper rendezvous. After sup- 
per I strolled slowly homeward. Just before going 
through at the end of the main street, I came upon a 
magnificent building. On either side, extending toward 
the park, were two fine buildings, the upper stories built 
out to the edge of the street and great pillars forming 
arched exits to steps leading down to the street, upheld 
the front, thus making a fine wide covered walk. As I 
came to this place, being earlier than usual, a military 
band was about to start operations, and although I had 
been pulling for home in order to do some writing, I had 
to stop and listen to the music until 8. I then went home 
and wrote until bedtime. 

NOVEMBER 21. After breakfast I went down to the 
British and Foreign Bible Society and fixed up a parcel 
to send to Detroit, then went to the postoffice, but not 
being able to make myself understood I came back to the 
Y. M. C. A. and the secretary very kindly had my parcel 
fixed up and posted. "While there a gentleman from Phil- 
adelphia came in and we had some conversation in regard 
to America. 

I next went down to the monument and had dinner in 
a small eating house near by, and then went to the Col- 
osseum where I did some writing and watched the soldiers 
drilling. 

I next started for the Catacombs, passing along to the 
end of the ruins of Cassar's Palace, then past the ruins 
of Cara Calla, then along a country road, this having a 
high wall on either side. It looked as if it had been built 
in the year 1. I passed all kinds of old ruins on the 
way. At one point was what looked like an old fort, a 
great structure fifty feet square at the bottom, thirty feet 
at the top and about fifty feet high. It was built of small 
rough stones. On top was a small cabin. 

At last when I thought I must be nearly on the other 
side of Italy I came to the entrance of the Catacombs, a 
field containing about forty acres covered with small 
towers. These let light down in the tombs. I paid a franc 



224 ROME 

and was just started with a guide when a couple more 
Americans, a man and his wife from San Francisco, came 
along. It was certainly an interesting trip, lasting an 
hour. "We saw hundreds of graves, tombs, inscriptions, 
etc., and everything was explained to us in very good 
English. The place is owned by the Catholic church and 
the guides are priests. 

On going back to the city almost the whole distance I 
was followed by droves of kids calling "solda." This 
is a nickname for five centimes, having the value of one 
cent in our money. At one place the road went under a 
railroad bridge, and this seemed to be a kind of gate to the 
city, as all vehicles were held up by soldiers. It looked like 
as though duty had to be paid on certain articles. 

I kept going right along till I came out at my old stamp- 
ing ground, "The Monument," as usual. Here I had 
supper and then hustled to my hotel and spent the time 
till 10 on a letter to Detroit. 

NOVEMBER 22. After breakfast I started down the 
main street, but after a couple of blocks, looking up one 
of the side streets noticed a great building, and going to 
this came upon the Piazza Del Esquinallo. In the center 
was a fine grass plot and here stands a great marble shaft, 
crowned with an iron cross. On the other side was what 
I had taken for some state building, but discovered it 
was the Church Mary Magdalene. This is one of the 
great churches of the city. There are two fine entrances. 
About thirty steps lead up to the plain doors. It was 
not a very high building, and there is a dome on either 
side of the entrance. On the opposite side from the part 
I first came upon was another square. In the center was 
a great high pedestal crowned with a bronze figure of 
St. Paul. The entrance was near the street level here, 
there being only a few steps leading up. At this end there 
was quite a high tower. Over the entrance were a num- 
ber of figures, and within alcoves were a few fine paint- 
ings. The interior compares favorably with St. Peter's, 
only on a smaller scale. On either side twenty great 
marble columns divide the building into three parts, the 



ROME 225 

center being exceptionally wide. The ceiling of the cen- 
ter part is flat and is divided into a hundred and five 
squares, each one beautifully decorated in gold. A num- 
ber of small altars were along the sides and the great 
altar at the end. Four immense marble columns en- 
twined with gold wreaths supported a beautiful canopy. 
All around the edges were golden angels ; on top were four 
more marble angels and in the center another supporting 
a great golden figure. On the front were the keys and 
papal crown. There was a pit with two grand marble 
staircases leading down, and on the floor a stone figure 
of a kneeling priest. 

Behind these at the extreme end was a fine altar with 
a great painting as a background. On the ceiling above 
was a beautiful painting of Christ, Mary and others. On 
either side of the church were two great rooms. Just 
inside the entrance of the first on either side were small 
altars. In the center was a great marble foundation and 
four golden angels support what looked like a gold model 
of the room. All around were grand figures and groups 
in marble and on the ceiling and the dome were paintings 
of kings and other great men. Around the walls of the 
second room were tablets to the memory of some Pope. 
"Within a marble enclosure was what appeared to be a 
marble basin with a gold cover. On the front were two 
angels and in the center a small figure of Christ on a 
low pedestal. At the back against the wall was a fine mar- 
ble group. Above were three beautiful windows and the 
ceiling was covered with grand paintings. The third 
room had an altar and behind it was a fine painting. On 
the walls were four great and four small paintings, and 
on either side were small sarcophagi with tablets beneath. 

The fourth room was another dream of beauty. Be- 
hind the second altar was a monument, a great plate of 
marble on either side three columns and at the top a 
number of figures. The walls were covered with figures 
and groups, and the ceiling and great dome were covered 
with paintings. All along the walls above the columns I 
just mentioned, between the windows, are fifty fine paint- 
ings representing scenes from the Bible. 



226 ROME 

On finishing here I went along the same street, coming 
to the church of San Antoine. This was not large, but 
had a very beautiful interior. A gallery runs around the 
two sides and rear, supported by sixteen very beautiful 
marble columns. Supporting the roof of the gallery were 
the same number of smaller columns. Just above the 
first column, running all around, was a long Latin in- 
scription in huge gold letters on a background of blue. 
Around the sides were ten plain altars. As a background 
to each was a splendid painting. In these paintings each 
figure was so distinct that you would not be surprised if 
it stepped down from the frame. 

At the rear was a magnificent altar. On a great marble 
vase was a house-like structure, and within this stood the 
figure of a saint. All around this were arrow-like pro- 
jections of gold. Behind was a great painting containing 
upwards of fifty figures. Above was an organ and on 
either side three fine paintings. On the ceiling were great 
paintings of saints and angels. Around the walls above 
the gallery were full length portraits of a number of 
priests. A little farther along I came to another great 
square. In the center, on triple bases of stone, was a 
great stone shaft covered with ancient inscriptions. Be- 
yond this was the Church of St. txiovana, a plain looking 
structure with two small steeples over the entrance, but 
like many others, there was a great difference between the 
exterior and interior. 

The whole interior was one magnificent dream. On 
either side of the main corridors were six double marble 
columns and in the niche of each was the figure of one 
of the apostles. Above this was a group and above this 
again was the painting of the apostles. Along either side 
wall were plain altars, each having a background of a 
magnificent painting. 

Near the rear was a pit, and behind was a great mosque- 
like structure, supported on four fine marble columns. 
This reaches almost to the roof. Just above the tops of 
the columns were paintings, then along a stair and at the 
top were steeple-like structures. To the left of this was 
a great altar, and over this a canopy like a temple, sup- 



ROME 227 

ported by four great brass columns. On either side were 
statues and above was a magnificent painting represent- 
ing the ascension of Christ. At the rear was a great altar. 
The wall behind and up to a part of the ceiling was 
beautifully finished in different colors. There was a great 
four-lined golden Latin inscription on a blue background. 
Then above were four fine windows and a number of 
figure paintings. To the right of the entrance were two 
very beautiful paintings. 

On leaving and going around the square I came 
upon the front of the church. This was splendid, 
there being four sets of great columns supporting the 
roof. On top around the railing were fifteen great 
figures of princes of the church. After this I had some 
dinner, then struck down a side street and at last came 
out at the Colosseum and wandered around the grounds 
of the palace for quite a while. Started out on a long 
walk, going to a point where the river turns off and fol- 
lowing this for some time. All along were ruin and de- 
cay. At last I came to what seemed to be a church. This 
was built of brick and stone, about half of the center 
front tower above the other part. On the face of this 
was a great double painting, the top part depicting Christ 
on the Cross and around were Mary, John and the soldiers. 
At the bottom were the Madonna and child. There were 
three standing figures on either side. Below was the Latin 
inscription. The name is Santa Rosalie A. Palermo. 

A little farther along I came upon a branch postoffice 
and went to see if I could secure some one-centissima 
pieces, as they do not circulate. Happened to be lucky 
enough to run across a young fellow who had spent a num- 
ber of years in America and could handle English all 
right, and obtained the coins I was after. I then wan- 
dered on until I came to the terminus of a street car 
track. Here was a great cattle yard. I then took the 
road that led along the side of the hill. All along were 
cave-like dwellings dug into the side of the hill. At one 
place they were making the coverings that protect wine 
jugs. Next I came across a woman trying to break up an 
old stump. I went right around the hill and found that 



228 ROME 

it was mostly taken up with a great winery. This has 
a number of tunnels running through and there are a 
great many caves where wine is stored. 

To the right perched on a hill was the church of St. 
Andrew's. Within the first entrance was a court and a 
corridor running around. On the walls were inscriptions. 
The interior was small. There were nine fine altars with 
grand paintings as a background. 

I then kept along until I brought up at the Via Forma 
Triano. Here I noticed two churches on opposite sides 
of the square — the San Maria de Loretta and Nome 
Maria. They were almost identical — a great dome with 
an addition for the main altar. In each were five splendid 
altars, four in alcoves around the dome and the main altar 
in an additional alcove. The interior of each was one 
dream of beauty, the Loretta, if anything, being the finer 
of the two. Each splendid altar had a background of mag- 
nificent paintings. All inside the dome was covered with 
fine paintings. 

After this I went out and had supper. I then went as 
far as the Y. M. C. A. to say good-by and get some papers, 
then I hustled for the hotel as I had to finish a letter. 
Usually close by there was an old man with a basket of 
different kinds of cakes, and I expected to lay in a supply 
for the morrow, but this night he was not there, and I 
spent some time trying to locate a bakery. It was 7 :30 
before I got to the hotel. Here I wrote until 10:30 when 
I turned in. 

NOVEMBER 23. After breakfast I went to the sta- 
tion and purchased a ticket for Naples and boarded a 
train at 8 :30. For several miles we ran along close to 
the ruins of old walls. Between the first and second stops 
it was quite hilly and almost every foot of land was in 
vineyards, the vines being well cared for in most cases. 
We then appeared to be going up as on our left was a 
wide valley with mountains in the distance. Every little 
way the ruins of some old building was seen, while men 
and women were busily employed in the fields. 

In the next section the country grew rougher and we 



NAPLES 229 

passed through vineyards continually, still very hilly and 
a few small patches of grain. At this place I saw a man 
riding a poor little donkey which was already loaded down 
with two great baskets. Signa Plana was the first town of 
any size passed. Just opposite the station was the ruin 
of a large building. 

The next part of the country was not so rough and 
more land was under cultivation. It had been cloudy 
but the sun broke out at this point for a few min- 
utes. Great hills w^ere on every side in the distance, the 
valley widened and a few vineyards and orchards w^ere 
passed. "We then went slowly over a bridge undergoing 
repairs. A few miles farther on we came upon more vine- 
yards and orchards. 

In my compartment were five soldiers and myself. Near 
Capriana we passed a number of fine orchards and vine- 
yards. Here we made a stop of twenty minutes waiting 
for another train. The first part of the last stretch was 
very rough, but the latter contained quite a number of 
orchards and vineyards. Mignano was a fair-sized place 
perched up on a hill. At this point we passed quite a 
number of what looked to be pine trees. The branches 
were kept trimmed off, giving them an umbrella-like ap- 
pearance at the top. To the left of the top of the great 
hill were the ruins of an ancient castle. 

We made a long stop at the next place to allow a train 
to pass. At last arrived in Naples at 4:30 and I started 
out at once. Walked along the main street until I came 
to an open market, and down along this some distance 
passed an old-fashioned dairy, this being an old man with 
four goats. He was milking one as I passed. Along a 
little farther w r as the new church of Santa Chiari. This 
had two altars that are unique in that they are great 
glass cases containing figures. 

I went a little farther and had supper in a small eating 
house. They gave me a great plate of macaroni with to- 
mato sauce. This was the small kind like strings, each 
string being about ten feet long. I tried to eat it in the 
Italian fashion but could not, so chopped it up a little. 
After eating I watched the others at the sword swallowing 



230 NAPLES 

act with the macaroni. After this I started to hunt up a 
lodging. Wandered around awhile, then tackled a man 
on the street and he took me to several places, but there 
was a hitch somewhere. At last I came upon a police 
station and one of the policemen took me to a place where 
I obtained worse accommodation than at Rome and it 
cost more. I am thoroughly disgusted and if I can get a 
train out of here tomorrow night, will pull my freight. 
I am mighty glad of one thing and that is that I did not 
strike this country first or my trip would have been a 
failure. 

NOVEMBER 24. On getting up went at once to the 
station to find out about trains and then hunt up a place 
to eat. Had breakfast in a small stall, and of all the 
filthy holes I have seen this was it. If I didn't have a 
cast-iron stomach I could not have eaten here. Had a big 
plate of some kind of soup containing bread and what I 
took to be tripe thrown in. 

I then located the direction of the bay and Mt. Vesu- 
vius and started to see them. Before I came to the bay 
there was a street running along towards the mount, and 
for half a mile on every side was an open market. This 
was the limit for filth and dirt. Beyond this there seemed 
to be an entrance into the city as two soldiers were sta- 
tioned here and were busily employed in searching the 
vehicles that came from the country. I take it there must 
be a tax on some articles. 

I then continued on towards the mount, and I kept on 
proceeding like a boy looking for the end of the rainbow. 
I must have walked six miles before I took a tumble and 
turned back. It was then near noon, so got something to 
eat at a small stand. 

I afterwards went over near the shore of the bay and 
sat down for some time to admire the view, then started 
back rubbering all the way, taking in the horrible condi- 
tion in which most of the poor people live. 

As I approached the open market I came upon a seat 
and sat down, wrote a little, and then took a good view 
of the mount. I could see vapor continually ascending. 



NAPLES 231 

Just to one side of where I was sitting were an old fort 
and barracks, the fort extending out over the sidewalk. 

I next went down to the dock and stood for a while 
watching men carrying coal out of barges, afterwards 
wandered down among the ships and watched the interest- 
ing operation of loading cattle. A sling was placed around 
them and they were hoisted up over the side. 

I next came upon a boat that had just gotten in early 
this morning from America, and baggage was piled over 
the dock. I had quite a talk with a couple of young fel- 
lows who came from Chicago. Some way or other this 
talk did me good. I had been suffering all day with a 
horrible attack of the blues and afterwards felt better. 

I then went on to the station and after writing awhile 
had supper at the same place where I had obtained break- 
fast. A man, wife and a little girl about ten were sitting 
at the same table. The man obtained a great bowl and 
broke up four cents' worth of bread into this and then 
got four cents ' worth of soup and dumped it on the whole. 
The three of them had supper of this. 

After supper I went back to the station, did some writ- 
ing and rubbering at the tremendous crowd. At 7 I w T ent 
out in the street and happened to notice a sign that nearly 
made me faint. It was broad daylight when I got in here 
yesterday, but I had not noticed it. This was a hotel 
sign, and gave prices of rooms. 

I had noticed a place this morning which looked like 
a cheap lodging house and started out at once to see what 
it was. On going in found a young fellow who could talk 
English, and to my joy learned the price of lodging was 
reasonable — something like in Paris or Berlin, this being 
less than one-fourth what I had paid in Rome. I had 
figured on going to Brindisi this evening, but this changed 
the whole business. I paid for a night's lodging, talked 
for awhile with the young fellow and walked up as far 
as the station where I wrote for awhile, and after a short 
stroll went home and to bed. 

NOVEMBER 25. This morning felt like a boy turned 
loose from school as my time was my own, and didn't 



232 NAPLES 

have to do any sight-seeing. To add to my pleasure the 
sun was shining bright and warm. I went down to the 
open market and got breakfast here, then went to the bay 
for a little while. Next visited a church, Gesu Viccho. 
This was a squalid looking building with a great tower 
rising from the ground. There were seven sections. The 
top was a round gilded globe. The interior of the church 
was fine, there being a dozen very good altars. One in 
particular especially attracted my attention, it being a 
figure of Christ in a glass case. Covering the figure and 
half filling the case were silver hands, feet, hearts, etc. 

Just beyond this place was a great square. Most of the 
open space was covered by a cement floor raised up about 
six inches from the ground. Around were cement posts 
about three feet high and the same distance apart. I 
presume that this must be used at times for market. At 
one side were three primitive blacksmith shops, and in 
each case these consisted of a small bellows made out of 
goat skin with the hair left on, a small fire on the ground 
and anvil, one end driven in the ground. The smiths 
were sitting crosslegged on the sidewalk, two of them being 
barefooted. I watched them work for a couple of hours. 

I forgot to note that as I was walking around where I 
obtained breakfast I passed several horses, two goats and 
quite a number of cows. While I was eating I could 
see a cow with her calf at head being milked for the benefit 
of customers. Just think of this way of doing business 
in a city of more than 700,000 population ! At one side 
of this square was a very little church. It had a small 
dome made picturesque by the different colors the slates 
were painted. 

Just across from the blacksmiths' were a dozen great 
heaps of pieces of leather of all kinds. The people were 
continually overhauling these in order to get something 
they could use. Everything was brought to the smiths' 
to be made up. 

One made a jew's-harp and played a few tunes while 
I was there. Most of those who came along to have work 
done spent more time than it was worth arguing over the 
price. The poverty of these people is appalling, some of 



NAPLES 233 

the priests being in the same condition. I saw quite a 
number in mighty seedy garb, some of them barefooted ; 
once in a while the other extreme, passing in the shape 
of a very gorgeous dressed person. 

Very few horses are used here, donkeys taking their 
place. On large vehicles there would be as many as three 
ponies or donkeys, one between the shafts, and others on 
either side. Most of the vehicles, large and small, are two 
wheeled. This of course, doesn't apply to cabs or buses. 

I stayed at this place until 12, enjoyed the sights and 
the beautiful sunshine. I then saw the interior of the 
church that was close by. This was splendid, a grand ef- 
fect being obtained by the use of different colored marble. 
The altars were magnificent. Two old women seemed to be 
in fearful agony either for their own sins or for those of 
some departed relatives. On coming out I went to the 
other side of the square, had something to eat, then sat 
down in the sunny square and finished reading some 
papers I had brought from Rome. 

After this I took a walk to a better part of the town. 
Within a few blocks came out upon the main business 
street, passing a fine university building, then came to 
the Piazza del Borsa. In the center of this large square 
was a marble fountain and around was the Borsa and great 
office buildings, mostly occupied by steamship companies. 
Off to one side was an old castle. In the center of this 
square is a great monument to Victor Emmanuel. 

A little farther along were two grand buildings — the 
National Theatre and the Humbert Gallery. The latter 
was a great combination of office buildings under one roof. 
Four glass roofed passages led to the center where there 
was a great glass dome. There is also a splendid main 
entrance. Just around the side of the theatre was a 
great Piazza, Ferdinand, a very large square with a 
great fountain in the center. The great attraction here 
was the Cathedral Ferdinand. On either side were wings 
about 100 feet in length. There were twenty-two pillars 
and columns supporting the roof of the portico. About a 
dozen steps lead up to the entrance to the church. Six 
pillars and columns support the low temple like a portico. 



234 NAPLES 

The corners and center were crowned by figures. About 
fifty feet from the front on the other side were equestrian 
statues on low monuments. The church proper seemed 
to consist of a great dome and two smaller ones built of 
squared smooth stone and glass. Only one part under a 
smaller dome was open. This was beautifully finished in 
white marble. There were several altars and a number of 
paintings. 

Continuing along I came to an information office where 
I obtained information in regard to the boats sailing for 
Greece. I then went down to the road that follows the 
turn to the bay. At this point was a great brown statue 
of Humbert on a fine stone pedestal. As I went along 
this walk and saw the magnificent hotels, and think of 
the palatial stores and offices I passed, it seems a won- 
derful contrast to the filthy squalor and poverty of the 
part I passed through this morning. 

As it was now getting late I turned back and strolled 
towards the station, noticing everything as I went along. 
It was 6 before I got back to my lodgings. I had supper 
in a small stall and then went home, staying in the sitting 
room until I went to bed at 9. 

There was a man there who had spent twenty-five years 
in New York, going there with his people when a small 
boy, and we had a lengthy conversation. 

NOVEMBER 26. The first thing I went down to the 
docks and watched them loading coal. The noise at this 
place was something fearful — everybody seemed to be 
talking at once. Several women were busy repairing mat 
sacks which were used, and all the time men and women 
were passing back and forth, selling different kinds of 
food and drink. 

I stayed here until after 11 and then went forth along 
the docks and watched the gang unloading wheat until 
after 12, when I went to a stall and had dinner. 

I then sat in the sun and finished reading a Detroit 
paper. Then had a struggle with myself as to whether 
I could stand it another week and if it had been a case 
of being able to pull out at any time it would not have 



NAPLES 235 

been so bad. But if I did not go to Brindisi I would have 
to stay another week, whether or no, as there was a boat 
only once a week. While I was still hesitating I took a 
long walk as far as the American Consulate, where I 
begged a number of newspapers. Coming back I spent 
considerable time along the docks and did not reach the 
station until 5. Stayed here observing the crowd until 
6 when I had supper. 

At this time I had concluded to stay another week, and 
will probably be sick and tired of the place before that 
time. Tonight there was a soldier at my lodging place 
who had been in America three years. I sat down on a 
sofa and made myself at home until 9, when I went to bed. 

NOVEMBER 27. Started out for a walk in a different 
direction from any taken yet, finally coming out on a 
great square where was an immense yellow painted build- 
ing. This must have had a frontage of 1,000 feet. It 
turned out to be the city hospital. I sat down here in 
company with a herd of goats and kids, and let the sun 
soak in while I read and noted the passersby. 

Then going on a little further I came to an open country 
and stood for some time watching a young fellow clipping 
a donkey. While here an auto passed by and just beyond 
broke down. 

After this I took a stroll up to the top of another street 
and went into a small stall for my dinner, but there ap- 
peared to be some difficulty about serving me so had to 
go on a little further to a larger place. 

There appeared to be quite a social crowd here. The 
restaurant had the tables in a large open court-yard, and 
this was filled with chickens, dogs and cats. After eat- 
ing I rested a few minutes while doing some writing. 
After this I continued up the road that led out of the city 
until I came to the top where it made a sharp turn to the 
left. At this point a splendid view of the city was ob- 
tained. Down below to the left, right and front, is the city. 

Further out directly in front was the bay, to the left 
Vesuvius and at my back a great vineyard. Immediately 
below on terraces were a number of vineyards and 
orchards. 



236 NAPLES 

Going on a little further I came upon a stone seat and 
sat down and took notice of the passing throng for some 
time. Several funerals and a great number of pony and 
donkey carts passed by. There were also great herds of 
goats going towards the city. Several boys with bunches 
of grass tied to sticks tolled them along. As I was sitting 
here a number of people came along and asked me questions 
of some kind. I shook my head to all. 

I forgot to note this morning that just after I left the 
house I came upon three men doing some kind of wood- 
work. I stood and watched them, and while there a man 
drove up accompanied by two other men. One man 
jumped out and picked out a big bundle of what looked 
like hoops, and the one whom I supposed was the pro- 
prietor started protesting, and at least for twenty minutes 
a person who was not used to their ways of doing business 
would think a million dollars was involved at the very 
least. The whole six workmen, besides a dozen others, 
were talking at once. I wrote something about a French- 
man using hands and feet. These Italians use the whole 
body when they are talking. At last a man in a rig paid 
the other six cents and they shook hands and the trans- 
action was over. Rich and poor, refined and unrefined, 
are alike. Two persons cannot engage in conversation for 
a minute without almost tearing their throats apart. 

I then went on a little further and took a good look at 
the grand view and then kept going slowly until I brought 
up at the station. I stayed here until 6 noticing the crowd, 
which continually floods these places. 

After supper I went to my lodging, spending the time 
until 8 talking and finishing a letter, afterwards going 
to bed. 

NOVEMBER 28. This is Thanksgiving Day in the 
States and it makes my mouth water when I think of 
turkey and other delicacies. However, I have promised 
myself a special feed this evening if I survive until then. 

After breakfast wandered down through a new dis- 
trict, going through a street so narrow that a vehicle of 
any kind could not pass. Saw several different forms of 



NAPLES 237 

primitive manufacture. On going to the docks I sat 
down and read for some time, then took a stroll down 
along the water front. Had dinner at a small open stall 
and then went to the customs house where the passengers 
from New York were having their baggage examined. I 
stayed here until 5 talking to different people. Most of 
these Italians acted in a very brilliant manner as they 
had loaded themselves down with new goods of all kinds 
on which they had to pay heavy duty. Although cloth- 
ing of all kinds is not cheap in this country, a person would 
be very foolish to bring it through from Chicago. As 
everything was pulled out of the trunks by the customs 
officers, and these were in most cases packed by women, 
I w T as greatly amused watching the men trying to repack 
them. 

I have not hurt myself very much walking today as I 
stayed right in the customs house from 1 until 5. I then 
went to the station where I ran across a couple who were 
down at the docks and conversed with them until 6, when 
I had my special Thanksgiving feed — a regular banquet. 
I then took a walk, not getting back to my lodgings until 
8, when I read and conversed awhile and then to bed. 

When I begin to figure up there are many things I 
have to be thankful for. One is that I have traveled a good 
many thousand miles by land and sea and I have not been 
killed or drowned. I have not even lost a leg or arm, 
never contracted a fatal disease and with the exception 
of being seasick a couple of times, never had another 
sickness. 

NOVEMBER 29. After breakfast again went down to 
the docks. This time went by a new route, passing through 
a long, narrow street where several kinds of primitive 
manufacturing were being carried on, the making of rush 
bottomed chairs being the most favored. At the docks I 
found a seat on some planks and facing the coal barges, 
and what was of more importance, where the sun would 
shine upon me. I stayed here until 12 when I got my din- 
ner at a stall. 

After this I went along the docks until I came to a 



238 NAPLES 

great boat and sat and watched this until it slowly pulled 
out on its long voyage to New York. A desperate feeling 
of sadness came over me as I saw the boat depart. This 
was the first time I have seen a sight that I have read of 
considerably, viz., boys diving for pieces of money. Sev- 
eral of them were busy at this job. There were also two 
boats containing blind musicians who were trying to earn 
an honest penny. In a boat just below where I was sitting 
four young fellows were playing cards for money. There 
is a tremendous amount of gambling going on in this 
city. It is evident that there is no law against this kind 
of thing as games are carried on in all places, the police 
being onlookers in many cases. The government carries 
on a gigantic gambling proposition in the shape of a lot- 
tery. 

After this I wandered along the docks noticing differ- 
ent kinds of boats until 4:30 when I went to the main 
street and on to the station noting the crowds as I went 
along. At the station I ran into a soldier who had been 
in New York three years and we conversed until it was 
time to go to supper. After supper I took a short stroll 
and then went to my lodgings where I read until 9 when 
I turned in. 

NOVEMBER 30. After breakfast went down to an 
electric depot to see about trains to Pompeii and then 
down to the barracks where I read and noticed the crowd 
till 12. Saw the loading of a batch of prisoners into a 
Black Maria for conveyance to the prison. Had dinner at 
a small stall and then strolled slowly to the United States 
Consul's office where I read papers till they closed at 2. 
Here I got information in regard to church and started 
out to locate it so that I would have no trouble finding 
it in the morning. After locating the church I went back 
to Cook's office for a few minutes to glean a little informa- 
tion, then headed back to the Piazza San Ferdinandus. 

Next I went down to the dock, going along noting the 
boats. I stopped for awhile to listen to an argument over 
a few onions, and while here I was attracted by a noise 
in the street, and looking out I saw a woman struggling 



NAPLES 239 

in the hands of a couple of men. She was yelling at the 
top of her voice. I don't know what was the matter, but 
they finally got her quieted down, and placing her in a 
carriage drove away. 

I next went to the station where I took notice of the 
crowd till supper time. I was amused by watching two 
different couples in conversation, they apparently not be- 
ing able to talk without using their hands, feet and heads. 

After supper I took quite a stroll, stood at a fruit stall 
for awhile and watched a bunch of young fellows ap- 
parently seeing who could eat the most. Then hearing a 
band I went to investigate and finally located the grand 
opening of a new wine room. "While I was there a priest 
and his assistant came along, had a service and sprinkled 
the place with holy water. The picture of our Lord was 
hung up at the back of the room and candles were put 
above it and lighted. After watching this performance I 
went to my lodging and had quite a talk with the man from 
New York, read awhile and then turned in at 9. 

DECEMBEE 1. After breakfast I strolled in the di- 
rection of the church which was at the other end of the 
town, and strolled to such purpose that I just managed 
to reach it at 11. This was a very nice little church, and 
I am thankful to say I have not turned into a heathen 
entirely, as I afterward enjoyed the service. A grand old 
man delivered a splendid sermon. There were two min- 
isters there from America, one prayed and the other spoke 
a few words after the service was concluded. 

After this I started down for the station and stopped in 
at the first stall and had some dinner. At this place the 
chickens wandered up and down the room and gathered 
up the crumbs. After this I went along till I came to the 
dock Custom House, and as it was raining, went in and 
read and wrote till 5, when I had some supper and then 
went to the Sailors' Mission. There I ran up against a 
pleasant surprise. It appears that a tea is furnished to 
the sailors every Sunday evening, and nothing would do 
but that I should sit down and partake of this, and al- 
though I had already eaten, the bread and butter and tea 
were so good that I did full justice. 



240 NAPLES 

After this meeting I was taken in hand by an old blind 
lady and her daughter, and they seemed to appreciate 
some of my yarns so much that they insisted that I go 
out to their place the following evening and tell them some 
more, and you may be sure that I accepted the invita- 
tion. After this I went home and to bed. 

DECEMBER 2. After breakfast went to the station 
where I had a few minutes' conversation with a man who 
had been in America. Then down to the bay, and out a 
couple of miles, coming to what looked like a suitable place, 
I took off my shoes and stockings and waded out in the 
water. On coming out I was nearly pestered out of my 
wits by a gang of young hoodlums. 

I then went back toward town and sitting down watched 
women washing clothes. At 12 :30 I left here and had 
some dinner in an open market square. 

I next went on to the United States Consul's office. Here 
I read until 3 :30. Then started out to walk to the resi- 
dence of Mrs. Gurretore and I traveled so slowly that 
I did not reach there until 5. The walk was beautiful, 
most of the way along the bay. 

A few minutes after arriving we had tea. I do not 
know whether I behaved properly or not, it having been 
so long since I had sat at a table in such company. It 
would be a wonder if I didn't break a few rules of 
etiquette. 

After tea I talked to the lady of the house until 8, 
when five young sailors and a missionary came in and 
the conversation was general. 

At 9 :30 we all sat down to supper, and such a supper ! 
I shall remember it all the way to Detroit. After bidding 
our hostess and the missionary good bye, the five young 
fellows and I boarded a street car and went down town 
together. On getting off the car I only had a short dis- 
tance to go, but being a little afraid I would be locked 
out I was in a hurry. Of course I took the wrong turn 
and finally brought up at the top of a hill and then had to 
turn around and retrace my steps. It was almost 12 be- 
fore I got to my lodging. Luckily for me they were still 
up. 



MOUNT VESUVIUS 241 

DECEMBER 3. After breakfast went down to the 
electric station where I boarded a train for Pugliano. 
This is situated at the foot of Mount Vesuvius. The train 
ran along the bay front a short distance and then getting 
out to the suburbs it was mostly one great garden or 
orchard. 

On arriving at Pugliano, after being soaked for a tip, 
I found the way to Cook's railway, which leads to the 
mountain. If I had taken the trouble to find out the cost 
of the ride before I left Naples, I would have saved con- 
siderable heart burning on account of a couple of dif- 
ferent tips I was touched for. It would only cost $4.50 
to go up this couple of miles, 

It made me so sore I would not have gone up afterward 
if they had provided an air-ship for me. I told one man 
I didn't want to buy the railroad or the mountain either. 

I wandered around the town a little and then boarded 
a train for Pompeii. The road wound around the moun- 
tain, and a splendid view was obtained from the train. 
The whole appearance of the sides of the mount was like 
a prairie after a fire has burned the grass. 

We passed numerous beds of lava. In some cases it 
was used for building walls. Arrived at Pompeii at 12. 
After paying the entrance fee of fifty cents I entered 
the ruins. This was certainly one of the sights of the 
world. It is a weird experience going through. There are 
three streets probably half a mile in length, then a great 
number of shorter ones leading off from these. 

Looking over the ground from a height of any kind they 
would appear like a town built of stone would look after a 
fire had gone through it. Some buildings were in a fair 
state of preservation, while others were almost level to 
the ground. In most cases the houses were small, only 
the few palaces and temples being of any size. Some of 
the latter have been wonderfully preserved and are now 
roofed over to keep them in as good a state as possible. 
The walls were covered with paintings and the floors 
were of marble mosaic. In one palace in particular in 
the center was a court and fountain. 

Remnants of the pipes that carried the water are still 



242 POMPEII 

to be seen. Quite a number of water pitchers are scattered 
about seemingly as good as when made. As a boy I read 
a story called fc 'The Last Days of Pompeii, 7 ' and while I 
went through tried to recall some of the story. 

At this minute I am sitting on a broken column and 
have just finished writing the foregoing. After this I 
found what appeared to be an old temple. In one room 
running all around the room, standing on one stone and 
supporting another on their heads were small figures of 
men. A little further on I came out on the hill where a 
fine view was obtained of the bay, the village of New 
Pompeii, old Vesuvius and the surrounding country. To 
one side were the remnants of the temple. A few feet 
of a great number of brick columns still stand. After 
this I came upon a great open-air theater. A large num- 
ber of the old stone seats are still in place. 

I then left by a different way and walked up through 
the village to the station, stopping in and getting some 
cards and sending these to Detroit. Left at 3 for Naples 
and I kept my eyes glued to the mountain until we landed 
at the station. 

I then walked up to the central station where I ran 
across a soldier with whom I talked a few days before, 
and engaged in conversation until 6. I went to supper, 
then to the lodging house and stayed there until 7 writ- 
ing and talking. 

Then went to the station where, as soon as I could get 
a ticket, I boarded a train, getting the best seat I could 
in a small compartment with just one window. 

It was fairly comfortable, and as it filled to its capacity, 
and no one bothered the window, it kept fairly warm. 
At 8 we started. At 9 I heard English being spoken out- 
side in the corridor, and going out to investigate found 
two engineers from a ship who had been down to Naples 
and Pompeii seeing the sights. I got into conversation 
with them and kept it up until 11 when they got off. I 
then went back to my seat and tried to get some sleep. 

DECEMBER 4. During the night I managed to get 
a little sleep. At 5 the conductor came around and ex- 



BRINDISI 243 

amined the tickets and on my showing him mine he turned 
it over several times and then tried to show me by signs 
that I was on the wrong train. Finally I caught on and 
along with a whole crowd of Italians was dumped off at 
a small station and spent a couple of hours till it got 
light enough to read the name of the station and locate 
it on the time-table. It was mighty lucky for me that the 
boat for Greece did not leave till late at night. On study- 
ing out the time-table I found that the train would be 
along at 9 o'clock, and we would be taken to our des- 
tination in a few hours. 

When we were dumped off at the station the wind was 
blowing a hurricane, and it was raining quite hard. In 
the small waiting room there was no fireplace, but a fire 
was smoldering in a small charcoal burner. From 7 to 
train time the door was left open, and the air in the room 
was almost freezing. 

The name of this place was San Basilio Pisticoi, and 
the country surrounding seemed to be one Vast plain 
which appeared to be planted to wheat. 

A man came in shortly before train time who had lived 
in Toronto and we had a short conversation in regard to 
America. Nearly all the time the Italians kept up a ter- 
rible rumpus. 

Finally at 9 :30 the train came along and landed us at 
Brindisi at 1. Shortly after starting we came to the 
border of the sea, and followed along the shore for some 
distance. Nearly the whole way a variety of cactus was 
planted near the track. Almost all kinds of country were 
passed in this ride — a great amount of grain land, and 
then a stretch of vineyards and orchards. 

On our arrival at Brindisi it was raining and a strong 
cold wind blowing. "When I thought of the long stretch 
ahead till 11 :30 at night when the boat sailed I was 
mighty glad a mistake had been made. For if I had got- 
ten in by the early train I would have had four hours 
more of misery. I started out to hunt up an eating house 
like those in Naples, but I found none, so I procured 
some stuff at a bakery and went back to the station and 
ate it there. 



244 CORFU 

I then wandered around trying to pass the time till 4 
when I obtained a ticket to Patras in Greece. I went 
along the dock till I came to where they were making 
briquettes from slack coal and sat here for a couple of 
hours and watched the process. I then went back to the 
main street, which led to the station and going by a pic- 
ture show I decided to go in, as I knew I would be in a 
warm place for a little while any way. This must have 
been the first show of the day as it took some time to 
start, and I thought the young hoodlums who were all 
around me would tear the building down before the show 
started. It was a very good picture entertainment, and I 
wished it had lasted longer. If it had been like the Ameri- 
can show where a person stayed as long as they pleased I 
would have stayed till it closed as it was fairly comfort- 
able in there. 

On coming out I procured some more food and went to 
the station, eating it there. I then went slowly down to 
the steamboat office to stay till the boat came, it being a 
little warmer there than outside. I sat down till I was 
nearly congealed when I got up and walked the floor. 
Shortly afterwards I got into conversation with a young 
Italian and we kept this up for a couple of hours. It 
was then 11 and the boat, which was scheduled to arrive 
at 9:30 had not shown up, in fact didn't get in till 1 in 
the morning. 

DECEMBER 5. At 1 the boat finally appeared and 
I lost no time in getting aboard and locating a place to 
camp. Unlike the time when I crossed over from Trieste 
to Venice, there appeared to be a great crowd aboard. I 
finally got upon one of the hatchways, where there was 
the least draft, and fixed a place for myself between the 
feet of several others, using some books and a couple of 
handkerchiefs for a pillow, stretched my undercoat over 
my legs, and overcoat over my body and head, and got 
fairly warm after awhile. The boat didn't start until 5. 
It was very rough, the waves coming over the side, but 
as I did no walking until we got into Corfu at 3; I didn't 
get seasick. I ate both dinner and supper sitting up in 



PATRAS 245 

bed, making a loaf of bread and some cheese do duty for 
both. "We anchored outside the city a mile from land, 
and I didn't go ashore on that account. A number of 
Greek ships were in the harbor, these being loaded with 
soldiers who were being taken to the seat of war. I ran 
across a young Greek from Chicago, and conversed with 
him till after 5, then went down below and after eating 
some supper I read for awhile and turned in at 7. Just 
below me was what appeared to be a Turkish family. Sud- 
denly one of the family started making the queerest kind 
of noise. The poor fellow was an imbecile, about twenty 
years of age. The father used him shamefully before he 
would stop making the noise. I managed to get through 
the night without freezing to death. 

DECEMBER 6. At 6:30 I got out and had something 
to eat and watched the boat approaching the land. We 
were then robbed to the tune of two francs in order to 
get ashore. 

I stayed right by my Greek friend from Chicago and 
we strolled around the town awhile. Pound out that on 
account of a washout there might not be a train for Athens 
today. We then walked as far as a small park and I sat 
down and did some writing while the Greek went to 
breakfast. 

Just after he left me a company of soldiers passed, led 
by a band. One consolation is that if I have to hang 
around this place all day I will not freeze as the sun is 
bright and warm. The city is small, built along between 
the shore and the great mountains. 

On my friend returning we went into a church near by. 
This contained a great number of paintings. After stroll- 
ing a little farther we decided to go back to the station 
and see if we could find out anything more in regard to 
the train. It was lucky we did so, as they had just con- 
cluded to send out a train and there was a fearful rush 
for tickets. 

The day was grand, warm and bright, and the view from 
the train magnificent, mountains on our right hand and 
the strait that separates the lower and upper parts of 
Greece on the left. 



246 ATHENS 

At times the track appeared to be hanging over the edge 
of a cliff, and again we would pass along quite a wide 
strip of country. This was bordered on every side by vine- 
yards and orchards. 

"We had only gone a few miles when the reason why 
the traffic had been suspended was seen. There had been 
a cloudburst and the country was covered with water. 
For many miles we just crept along, the whole road hav- 
ing been washed away and just repaired temporarily. 

At every stop the train was thronged by boys and girls 
selling fruits and cakes. In our compartment which held 
eight were two other young fellows who hailed from 
Seattle, and between them all I talked until my throat 
was sore. 

Before leaving Detroit I hardly expected to be travel- 
ing across Greece in company with three young fellows 
from America. They expected to go to the front. I thor- 
oughly enjoyed this journey, not having the usual bug- 
aboo ahead of me of having to hunt for a lodging. Al- 
though the distance was only 200 miles we didn 't arrive at 
Athens until after 10. 

I had explained to Mr. Vavis, my Greek friend, just 
what I wanted and he had asked our other traveling com- 
panions, but didn't get any satisfaction, and on arriving 
at Athens concluded that it being so late we had better go 
with one of the men to a hotel, and then hunt up another 
place in the morning. On our way a man stopped us 
and after some conversation Mr. Vavis told me it was 
just what I wanted so I went with this other man, Mr. 
Vavis promising to call for me in the morning. I got to 
bed at 10 :30. 

DECEMBER 7. Eose at 8 and got ready for the street. 
As Mr. Vavis had not shown up I sat down and wrote 
awhile, then walked up and down, getting more and more 
impatient until I finally went out. Luckily, I just 
had money enough to pay for my room and I do not sup- 
pose they would have let me out if I had not had. I went 
down on the street and took down the address of the 
hotel. Finally at 11 :30 I decided to wait no longer and 



ATHENS 247 

had just written a note to leave for Mr. Vavis when he 
showed up, accompanied by a cousin and his little boy. 
It seems he took it for granted I would not run off and 
had hunted up this cousin. We then boarded a car for 
Cook's office, where I had my money changed without 
having to stand a very heavy discount. We then took a 
long walk, passing a university, a couple of ruins, the 
Acropolis for one, and an old church. We then crossed 
a small stream that 2,000 years ago carried great fleets 
of vessels. Next went through a park to the great marble 
Stadium, where the first modern Olympic games were held. 
This was a great structure of white marble. It was built 
in the open air, having no roof over the tiers of seats, A 
little farther along we passed the palace of the Crown 
Prince, a beautiful modern building surrounded by mag- 
nificent grounds. 

We then boarded another car and went back to our 
starting point near my hotel. Passed by several fine 
squares, besides the King's Palace, and Parliament build- 
ings. These were all magnificent buildings. 

On alighting from the car I bid my friend good-by. 
We had exchanged addresses and had agreed to hunt 
each other up if we were fortunate enough to land back 
in America. I then went on to an eating house, where I 
just got the kind of a dinner I wanted, afterward writing 
up my diary. 

I then started out on a tramp. Within a couple of 
blocks I came upon the Historical Museum. This is lo- 
cated in very large grounds, which outside of the build- 
ings, were covered with magnificent palms. The trunks 
of these were short but had a great circumference. On 
either side of the main entrance gate were two one-story 
buildings which have fine outside corridors. Along these 
niches were marble figures. The rooms of the two build- 
ings were being used as soldiers' barracks. The main 
building was a splendid two-story structure, built of mar- 
ble and stone. Within the court were a number of statues. 
The museum is now closed on account of the war. In the 
next block I came upon a very beautiful small park laid 
out in plats. Within these were grass, flowers, palms and 



248 ATHENS 

orange trees. At the back was a grand one-story build- 
ing. Seven steps lead up to the plot of ground in front 
and then fourteen steps lead up to the entrance. Thirteen 
pillars on either side support the roof of the corridor. 
Eight fine marble pillars and columns support the roof 
of the portico. On top of these are four figures, two men 
and two women. Along the front and sides were orange 
trees. 

On going in I found it was an Antiquarian Museum and 
was filled with all kinds of old junk. Shortly after en- 
tering I noticed two young fellows whose clothes spelled 
America, and on approaching them I discovered they had 
lived in St. Louis, Missouri, for four years. 

We then went through the building together, they de- 
scribing different articles to me. There were statues and 
articles of every kind used by the ancient inhabitants. On 
coming out I parted from my guides and then walked on 
a little farther until I came to a side street that led to 
a great hill. This I climbed and obtained a splendid 
view, it being probably 2,000 feet above the street. 

Great hills all around the city. Down in between, 
across a small valley, was a higher hill on which was an 
observation station. On the opposite side of the city was 
the Acropolis. Beyond that, to the right, was Piraeus and 
on the other side the harbor. The whole city was spread 
out below. Back of me, in a great square, a number of 
detachments of soldiers were drilling. It was quite cold. 
The wind felt like winter and the clouds looked like snow. 

On coming down I strolled along until I came to where 
a company of soldiers were lined up waiting orders. 
I could not help thinking that the men of the country 
were being thinned out considerably when I noticed how 
old these men were. Business of all kinds is dead on ac- 
count of the men being away or going to the front. 

A little farther along I came to what looked like a post- 
office and went in and wrote a little. After this I 
strolled into St. Charles Square and along one of the main 
streets. The streets, hotels, restaurants, etc., are all 
crowded, mostly by soldiers. The main 1 streets are paved 
with asphalt and kept in good condition. Arc lights hang 



ATHENS 249 

in the center and incandescent lights run right across the 
street suspended from a wire. There are quite a number 
of fine hotels and restaurants, office and store buildings. 
The windows of a number of places are decorated with 
pictures of battle scenes. 

I then went to supper, after which I wrote a little, then 
took another stroll. I forgot to mention that when I was 
going through the museum some men who looked like 
Turks came in and on my asking a man from St. Louis 
I was informed they were Turkish officers, prisoners of 
war, who were allowed their liberty on parole, the Greek 
authorities allowing them a small sum for sustenance. I 
do not know what I expected the Greek people to be like, 
but whatever my idea, as I look around at the crowds of 
well-dressed people, if it was not for the language, I 
could easily believe they were the same crowd seen in like 
circumstances in Detroit. 

At 8 :30 I left for my hotel. Getting there, I ran into 
another bunch of soldiers from America and conversed 
with them until 10, when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 8. After a late breakfast started for 
church. Passed the palace on the way, and as it was still 
early I stopped to inspect. The palace was on one side 
of a great square. On the other side some distance in 
front of the palace was a small park, there being six 
small plots covered mostly with orange trees. About 
thirty steps led up to a plot of grass in front of the 
palace. The building was three stories high, with a 
frontage of about 1,000 feet, and appeared to be built of 
small blocks of stone or cement. The color was a dirty 
yellow. Ten marble pillars supported the portico of the 
main entrance. There were very beautiful grounds to 
one side and behind. 

After gazing on this a few minutes I went on to St. 
Paul's church and listened to a very high church service. 
The church had a very pretty interior and would seat 
about two hundred. After service I walked back to my 
restaurant to dinner. 

It was quite cold and the orange and palm trees looked 



250 ATHENS 

out of place. After dinner I read for awhile and then 
wondered how I would keep from freezing. The beauty 
of it is I have the consolation of knowing it will probably 
be colder than this in the Holy Land. 

I finally started out to take a long walk, and certainly 
did so, covering eight miles before I quit. I went right 
through the town out into the country, and then on into 
the city of Pirseus, the port of Athens. Continued through 
the town till I came to the docks where I rubbered around 
a little and located the steamship office. Afterwards I 
came back by a different route, it being 6 by the time I 
returned to the restaurant. Along the road both going 
and coming I met and was passed by a great number of 
soldiers, autos and wagons, the latter being loaded down 
with munitions of war. There was also a number of carts 
and pack donkeys loaded down with produce. 

If this cold snap continues tomorrow and next day I 
will see something of the place, as I will have to keep 
moving in order to keep from freezing. 

After eating my supper I wrote awhile and then went 
to a big restaurant and sat there out of the cold till 8 :30, 
when I went to the hotel. Conversed awhile with some 
soldiers and then went to bed. 

DECEMBER 9. After breakfast went to a ticket of- 
fice and obtained some information, then bought post 
cards and hunted up the postoffice where I busied my- 
self till noon writing and sending off a number of cards. 
This war is bringing a tremendous amount of business to 
the postoffice. I had to almost fight my way to the stamp 
window. After this went to dinner, wrote awhile and 
started out again. The sun had come out and it was 
fairly warm. I continued along one of the main streets 
till I came to a building with steps leading to the en- 
trance, where I sat down a few minutes and let the sun 
soak in, then went on to the Parliament buildings. These 
were small, common-looking buildings of stone, painted 
yellow. There was a small imposing entrance, marble 
steps and then four fine marble pillars supporting a mar- 
ble portico. The grounds were fine, being mostly covered 



ATHENS 251 

with orange trees. I then went to Constitutional Square 
where the palace is located. A little farther on was a 
grand park. Just to one side were the ruins of the Tem- 
ple of Jupiter. At the front of the great building were 
still standing twelve great marble columns supporting 
capitals. At the other end were two lonely columns. All 
around the outside walls were pieces of the ruins. About 
forty rods to the west crowning the top of a great hill 
that appeared to be solid rock were the ruins of the 
Acropolis. It would be a task for any one to describe 
the great ruin. Immediately in front near the gate were 
great piles of ruins. About half way up the hill were 
the ruins of a great amphitheater. Then right up at the 
base of the rock — the foundation for the building proper 
— was a great cave containing tombs. "Within this were 
a couple of shrines, a short stairway leading to one. After 
looking at this I tried to scale the outside of the rock, but 
had to give it up. This was a very foolish trick on my 
part as the wall had decayed, pieces falling down con- 
tinually. I then went around the lower part, coming to 
a great dungeon arched over and partly filled with water. 
Most of the brick arched roof was as solid as when built. 

A little farther on was another great theater. This ap- 
peared to have been walled in. About half the steps were 
still in place. Just on the other side of this, facing the 
west, I found the entrance to the top. A track runs right 
up to the top and this is used for transportation pur- 
poses. Stone steps more or less broken lead up. Just to 
the right, as you gain the top, was what looked like a 
small chapel. On the south side were a few steps and I 
sat down on one of these and admired the splendid view. 
Opposite was another great hill on top of which were the 
ruins of Phillopolis, there being just a few columns still 
standing. 

After this I went down to a small museum which was 
filled with relics. In the center of the ground were the 
ruins of the Parthenon. Blocks of stone forming the foun- 
dation, part of the wall, and forty of the great columns 
were still standing. In one corner was the Propylees. A 
few of the columns and part of the walls were standing 



252 ATHENS 

in this case. A fine view of the city was obtained from 
all sides. 

Part of the time while going through these ruins I 
was accompanied by three soldiers from Chicago. On go- 
ing down I followed an old road. Part of the way on the 
left of it a great rock overhung. 

A little farther on to the left, perched on the top of 
an almost inaccessible rock, was a church built of cement 
blocks. On the top was a great dome. All underneath 
the church the rock seemed to be undermined. The gate 
at the bottom was locked so I could not inspect. 

A little farther along I came out on a great open space 
and on the other side was the well preserved Temple of 
Thesus. Twenty-four giant columns in seven parts ran 
around the outside, each standing on three great blocks 
of marble. The columns supported capitals, upholding 
the roof. The walls of the inner part were still standing, 
the building proper being about twenty feet wide by sixty 
long and twenty high. This was built 465 B. C. 

I then passed through a few narrow streets where all 
kinds of manufacturing operations were in progress. 

I next came to a grand church. This was built of ce- 
ment blocks and painted yellow. Five steps led up to the 
entrance. Pour fine marble pillars formed an arch over 
these. There was a great tower at either end and a great 
triple window in the center. 

At the rear was a large dome. The interior was very 
fine. There was a number of grand pillars on either side, 
and there were paintings around the walls and several 
fine altars. 

Next I went along until I came to Cook's office where 
I obtained some information, then to supper. After- 
wards I went to my hotel where I conversed with some 
soldiers until 9, when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 10. After breakfast walked up as far as 
the postoffice, where I wrote and sent off some cards. I 
then went on to the palace, passing this along a grand 
street shaded with trees and lined with beautiful build- 
ings until I located the U. S. Consulate, where I obtained 
some information in regard to having mail forwarded. 



ATHENS 253 

A little further on I started to climb the highest hill 
in the vicinity of Athens. This was the top of a great 
rock on which was perched the church of St. George. 
After considerable climbing I passed the houses and came 
within the fence that encloses the hill proper. 

All the way up were seats and I stopped once in awhile 
to admire the view. Looking up and around from here 
there was no soil in sight, but there was a slight growth of 
cactuses and scrubby pine which reached up to a great 
mass of rock that crowned the top. 

The space at the top was just large enough to contain 
a small church, with an open space in front aggregating 
one hundred feet. The outer edge was surrounded by a 
rough wall three feet high. Opposite the door of the 
church, at the extreme edge, was a great tower with a bell 
hanging therein. The church was low and small, having 
two small and one large domes. 

The interior was only about thirty feet square, but 
wonderfully rich and beautiful, the walls being made of 
marble. There were three grand altars and about a dozen 
paintings in splendid frames, In a great frame was a 
silver plaque of St. George and the Dragon. 

A wonderful view was obtained from this point. Im- 
mediately in front and on the right and left was the city 
with its varied colored tiled roofs. 

In the distance in front, behind and to the right were 
mountains, some of the highest peaks being covered with 
snow. To the left was the city of Piraeus and the har- 
bor, and away in the distance I could just discern more 
mountains. As in a number of places, I could not help 
thinking how lovely it would be in summer. At the pres- 
ent time it is quite cold, the thermometer being down 
to 40. I had my coat collar pulled up and my fingers 
were almost stiff, but I could not help thinking that it 
was worth all the hardships just to see the sights of this 
ancient city. 

All the noises of the city blended into one continual 
roar sounded queer up at that height. I sat for some time 
looking at the view and then as it was almost noon went 
down another way and found the road to my restaurant. 



254 ATHENS 

As I was going along after dinner I passed a couple of 
soldier carts loaded down with loaves of bread. I also 
saw a couple of Albanians dressed in peculiar costumes. 
Funny looking round caps, a short, frilled skirt (in some 
cases white), tight-fitting trousers like leggings and very 
long, turned-up shoes, with a ball of fur or wool at the 
tip, completed the queer costume. 

I then strolled on a little ways to a fine square and 
followed tram-line No. 7 until I came upon a group of 
grand buildings. The first proved to be the National 
Library. There was a beautifully elongated grass plot, 
hedge bordered and containing a number of large and 
small ponds. In front of the building there was a marble 
statue of some great man. On either side a marble stair- 
way of forty steps, with balustrades of the same material 
led up to a common level. Five more steps led to the 
portico. Six massive white columns, each in seven sec- 
tions, separated the portico. The building proper and the 
two wings were in the old temple form, one story, and 
were built of blocks of white marble. 

Next to this was the University, in front of which was 
a beautiful little park, bordered by palms and orange 
trees. In the center of the park were a couple of foun- 
tains and at the rear two fine altars. At either front 
corner of the building were fine statues on pedestals, one 
of a priest and the other of a judge. The building had 
a frontage of one hundred feet. Two magnificent marble 
altars stood on the beautiful marble portico. On either 
side was a corridor, the bottom being closed up to a height 
of eight feet. Six small pillars on either side supported 
the roof. The building proper appeared to have been 
built of cement blocks or stone. The outside was a bright 
yellow, the interior and corridor red. At the top, run- 
ning the whole length of the corridor, were ten wonder- 
fully beautiful paintings representing ancient scenes. 
There were eighty-three life-sized figures in all. The in- 
terior of the building was very beautiful. It is now being 
used as a barracks, 

Next to this was the Academy of Music, the most beau- 
tiful building in Athens. In front were two small plots 



ATHENS 255 

covered with palms. Fourteen steps led up to the drive- 
way that ran on both sides. On either side of the ap- 
proach were two statues. Three more steps led up to the 
grand approach and seven more led to the grand entrance. 
Ten wonderful, magnificent columns in five parts and 
slightly gilded at the top supported the beautiful temple 
shaped portico. Under the top of the roof were thirteen 
small figures; at either corner were winged lions; in the 
center a carved chair, and on both sides were angels. On 
either side and front between that of the wings were two 
gigantic statues of ancient Greeks on pedestals about fifty 
feet high. The building and its wings were of white 
marble beautifully gilded. 

Finding out that the Library was open I went in and 
after looking around at last found a Chambers' En- 
cyclopedia and proceeded to feast on this. Among other 
things I learned that Alexandria was founded in 332 B. C. 
Remained there until 5 :30 when I went to the post- 
office where I made arrangements to have my mail for- 
warded to Port Said. I then went to supper, afterward 
to my hotel where I wrote until 9 o'clock, then I went 
to bed. 

DECEMBER 11. After breakfast went to the post- 
office where I posted a letter and from there to the un- 
derground station where I took the train to Piraeus. The 
night had been clear and cold and hoar frost covered the 
ground in all shady places. The morning was bright and 
warm and had the appearance of a fine day. On arriv- 
ing at Piraeus I went to the ticket office and purchased 
a ticket for Alexandria and was informed that the boat 
would leave at 10 o 'clock. As it was then 9 :30 I had to 
hustle. All I had to go by was the name of the ship. I 
found a man who could speak English and who sent me 
with another man who finally took me back to the office 
and then to the tender which was then close by. There 
I was informed the boat would not leave until after 12 
o 'clock. 

As the ship was to come from Constantinople I ran a 
very good chance of catching the cholera. I was also told 



256 PIR^US 

the pleasant news that we would be quarantined on ar- 
riving at Alexandria. The tender started and it was 
nearly 12 before we were landed by small boats at the 
quarantine station, then had to wait until the boats from 
the ship could take us. I stuck right by the Greek who 
could talk English and helped him carry some of his lug- 
gage. On getting aboard we hunted up the best place 
we could find on the stern, there being no berths, and 
after getting settled my Greek friend got out his provi- 
sions and invited me to fall to, which after a little press- 
ing I did. I was so hurried in catching the boat that I 
had not laid in a supply for dinner. After this I just 
basked in the sunshine and did a little writing. 

The ship is a small, poor looking affair. If we have 
rough weather seasickness will certainly prevail. After 
awhile I went forward to watch them pull up the anchor 
and at 4 o'clock we started slowly on our journey. There 
is no danger of being lonesome as there is a great crowd 
aboard. About one-half are Turks. At 6 we had supper. 
I went down to the berth room where a young fellow from 
South Africa with whom I had been talking had located 
one for me. He also gave me a blanket and after some 
conversation I turned in. 

DECEMBER 12. I rose at 7, just as the ship pulled 
into the harbor of Souda in the Island of Crete, just a 
small town. Anchored in the harbor was an English war 
vessels. "We only stopped long enough to unload mail and 
then proceeded on our journey. Running eastward along 
the shore of the island about all that can be seen are great 
mountains, some of them covered with snow. 

The sun was shining and it looked like another fine 
day. While admiring the view the crowd which had taken 
me into their company had breakfast. This consisted of 
a great chunk of soldier bread and a portion of Dutch 
cheese, the latter being very salty. The bread was brown 
and quite moist. 

About 9 I went up to the fore part of the boat and 
talked with a couple of fellows until 11, taking in the 
beautiful view as we passed along, as we were still going 



ALEXANDEIA 257 

east, not more than three miles from the coast of Crete. 
At 12 I went back to my company and wrote for awhile. 
All along there was nothing to be seen but the hills and 
mountains, not a sign of life of any kind, but at last we 
spied a small town. We were still in sight of the island 
at dark. About 4 we were all mustered forward to deliver 
up our tickets. About the same time it began to rain. 
At 5 I started to read a book one of the passengers had 
loaned me. At 6 was invited to join four others at supper, 
one of the number being a Greek priest. I then read until 
night when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 13. I rose at 8 and went on deck to hunt 
up my company, but there was no breakfast in sight. As 
it was nice and warm I stayed on deck an hour and then 
went down to my berth and read until I finished my book 
at 1. Then went up on deck, wrote up my diary and 
stayed there for awhile. The sun was shining nice and 
warm, but the boat rocked quite a bit and made me feel 
queer. I then went down below and spent the rest of the 
day reading a book and some papers brought from Naples. 
Went to bed at 9. 

DECEMBER 14. Anchored in Alexandria harbor at 
1 :30. Had very little sleep after that as everybody was 
talking at once. Didn 't know whether we would be able to 
leave in the morning or have to go to quarantine station. 

At 7 I arose and took a look around. It looked like a 
fine harbor. I was feeling mighty tough as I had not eaten 
anything for a couple of days. 

At 8 a couple of small boats took off the mail and after- 
ward all the third class baggage was loaded into a barge. 
Next the third class passengers were loaded and towed to 
quarantine. 

It was just 10 when we landed. I could find out noth- 
ing in regard to the length of time we would have to 
stay. There were quite a number of one-story brick build- 
ings covered with corrugated iron, but we only had access 
to one divided by a partition into two parts. 

The floor is made of tile. On either side is a raised 



258 ALEXANDRIA 

platform about two feet high on which there are twenty- 
beds. In the center are a couple of tables. 

They next unloaded the baggage and examined it, and 
then they lined us up and run us through a door one at 
a time, a doctor taking our temperature. This appeared 
to be just a formality. 

After this I located a fellow who had some bread, and 
as I had some cheese we managed to make out a meal be- 
tween us. After this we lined up and had to pass around 
again one at a time and pay out six piasters (thirty cents) 
for the trouble we were being put to, and then had another 
long wait. 

I certainly feel that I am in a foreign country by this 
time, the people being all shades of color and wearing 
every kind of dress. 

After a long wait the baggage was run out and then we 
had to hand in our names and go through another ques- 
tioning, and I was given the alternative of either having 
to stay in quarantine for five days or go on to Port Said, 
and although I wanted to see something of the city I pre- 
ferred to go to Port Said. Another fellow and I were 
sent under the care of a guide at our own expense to the 
station and just had time to catch the train at 4. "We saw 
something of the city on our way as there was a drive of 
about four miles. It was an interesting sight to see the 
many kinds of people and different kinds of buildings. 

The train was better than anything I have ridden in 
since leaving England. This was also the fastest ride. It 
only took six and one-half hours. It certainly seemed 
queer to be riding in a fast train across Egypt. 

As long as the daylight lasted a splendid view was 
spread out of a beautiful fertile country. A great num- 
ber of camels and dromedaries were used as beasts of 
burden. The fields were covered with vegetables, banana, 
orange and fig groves, while the lofty date palms were 
everywhere. 

As it was bright moonlight I had a fair opportunity to 
see something of the country all the way along. There 
was a number of fairly good sized towns, but as we got 
further from the Nile the land became barren; finally 
nothing but sand could be seen. 



PORT SAID 259 

The young fellow who was with me was an English- 
speaking Greek and knew of a hotel in Port Said. Upon 
arrival there we hunted this up and it being full, we had 
to go to another one which I located. It was 11 :30 when 
I got to bed. 

In the car with us most of the way were people of all 
colors. There were a few women, but being Mohammedans 
they had their faces covered. The men for the most part 
wore skirts and turbans. Those who wore European 
clothes had the red fez on their head. 

DECEMBER 15. I arose at 7 and went to a restaurant 
with my friend and had some European coffee in very 
small cups; then sat at a table for a long time writing 
up my diary and watching the people come and go. At 
9 I started out and within a short distance reached the 
entrance to the canal and docks and went along this until 
I came to a steamship office where I procured a ticket for 
Jaffa. 

I disliked to travel on Sunday but would have to wait 
ten days for another boat and I can't do this. Two great 
piers run out into the ocean, one a half a mile and the 
other a mile. These are a mile apart and they form a 
breakwater for the harbor. Just a short distance from 
where one leads from the land, looking toward the other 
pier, is a great statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps, the builder 
of the canal. 

As I walked along my pleasure in the view was some- 
what marred by being bothered by bootblacks and ped- 
dlers. After obtaining my ticket I walked a few blocks 
around the Arab square. This is completely filled with 
shops, bazaars and stands of all kinds. Of course it is 
not necessary to say that everything was wide open on 
Sunday. From this I wandered back to the dock and 
went out on the pier to de Lesseps' statue. The wind was 
blowing quite strong and on the way I saw a hat blow into 
the sea. It looked for a time as if it would be lost but a 
boat went out to it from a ship and it was secured. To 
the south side of the pier were three Arabs fishing in the 
surf. They had small nets which they threw out and then 



260 PORT SAID 

slowly pulled in, minnows being all that were caught. 
I went further along to a number of boat houses. Port 
Said is a modern city, built at the time of the opening of 
the canal, and on this account the streets are wide and 
the buildings are mostly of the French style. 

It was quite warm and I had to shed my overcoat. 
After this I took a walk along the beach between rows of 
small boat houses and stopped for awhile on a veranda 
of one to gaze out upon the sea. Having been with a crowd 
for several days I felt quite lonesome. 

At 12 I w T ent to the center of the town and had dinner 
at a restaurant, kept by what I took to be Greeks, then 
wandered along the main street. On this were laid two 
tracks about two feet wide on which small street cars *pro- 
pelled by mules were used. 

It rained quite heavily last night and the streets were 
very dirty. The sun was quite hot and I walked on the 
shady side of the street. What a picturesque sight to se<jg> 
so many shades of colors — both of the people and their 
costumes. On coming back I stopped in a small park that 
divided the two sides of the street near the canal. In a 
little while I did some writing ; then went through a small 
park to a great building facing the harbor which proved 
to be the office of the Suez Canal Company. This is a 
noble building, two stories high and about one hundred 
feet square with a gallery running around the whole build- 
ing. At each corner and in the center were great domes, 
the center one the largest, which being of a blue color, 
looked for all the world like great globes. After admiring 
this building I hunted up a boatman whom I had seen 
earlier and went out to the ship. As it only took him ten 
minutes I figured I was doing something handsome when I 
paid him a franc (20 cents), but he told me that was for 
the boat and that he wanted another franc. Of course I 
knew he was lying but I had to shell out. The next time 
I will not step into a boat until I know exactly what it 
will cost. It certainly spoils the pleasure of visiting these 
countries when they steal from you every turn you make. 

On looking over the boat I did not see anyone but Turks. 
After a few moments I went upon the bow and had this 



JAFFA 261 

part all to myself until the ship sailed. When I came 
aboard the sun was shining and it was quite warm, but 
afterwards it clouded up and got windy and colder. It 
now looks as if we would have a rough passage. Just 
before 4 I left my lonely vigil and went down and watched 
the crowd hustling people into boats and bringing them 
out. These had come from Cairo by train which was late. 
A little later a big boat loaded with mail came alongside. 
After this I interested myself in watching a number of 
especially devout Mohammedans go through their even- 
ing devotions. The boat started at 5 and I watched her 
going out through the mouth of the canal. I now thought 
it was time to eat and find out about settling myself in 
order for the night. At first it looked like a poor propo- 
sition. 

The only part of the boat at all suitable was crowded, 
but on getting up to the bow I saw a couple of men going 
into a hole and on investigating I found a fine warm place. 
This was partly filled with sacks of coal. I made myself 
comfortable but was unable to sleep for some reason or 
other. There was a pretty heavy sea on but the boat did 
not rock as much as I thought it would. 

DECEMBER 16. I rose at 6, as we were near land; 
anchored at 7 and were immediately surrounded by boats, 
and I never heard such a racket in my life. "When they 
started to load I thought they w^ould pull us to pieces. 
One American lady was nearly scared to death. 

It was a fearful sight between the ship and shore. 
Some were frightened and would not get off, preferring 
to go on to the next place. It was certainly a hair-raising 
trip, but it didn't bother me a bit, as I knew I was in for 
another scrap when I landed. A tourist book I had seen 
had described this place, and had stated that prices for 
landing were high on account of the danger. 

On landing, the first thing I found out was that my 
passport was not right. This meant a dollar. Then the 
boatman wanted another dollar, but I would not stand 
for it, and handed him sixty cents, and although he stayed 
with me half an hour I would not give him any more. 



262 JAFFA 

Finally after waiting this length of time I was told to 
come back in an hour and my passport would be fixed up. 
I then started out to locate the station, and after several 
false starts managed to find it. 

There had been a very heavy rain, and of all the nar- 
row, dirty, crooked streets, this place beat them all. It 
was even worse than Naples. The streets were jammed 
with people of every race and color, mixed with wagons, 
carriages, horses, donkeys and camels. 

After locating the station I returned to the dock, got 
my passport and made another start. After awhile I 
came out on a wide street, passed a number of workshops, 
and going to a small shop where orange boxes were being 
made, sat down on a log of wood in front and did some 
writing and watched the procession. Everyone that came 
along had to stare at me a little of course. Just a little 
further along was a large box factory. I watched a num- 
ber of camels kneeling while they were being loaded with 
great bundles of boxes. It was bright and warm, and most 
of the people were barefooted, or had their bare feet stuck 
in slippers or sandals. 

After this I went to the Jerusalem gate and along the 
road for nearly a mile. This road was lined on both sides 
with orange groves. 

On going back I went down to the shore and stopped 
awhile to watch boat builders at work, then continued 
along the shore until I came to the place where I landed, 
and then on to the station, buying something to eat on the 
way. After eating I did some writing, and then paraded 
up and down the station yard until the train started at 12. 

Just after leaving the station we passed a stretch near 
the sea. Several orange groves had been destroyed and 
were covered with sand, and then we ran into a great 
grove of oranges, and then grain land and pasture, and 
then more orange and olive groves, with a few figs and 
palms. A religious argument was going on between some 
Mohammedans, Jews and Russian Greeks. Just behind 
me were two French girls. 

The first stop was Lydda, the next Ramleh. The latter 
is quite a town and some distance from the station. The 



JERUSALEM 263 

House of Nicodemus is located here. The orchards are 
fenced with giant cactus and the donkeys keep them 
trimmed. There are no farm buildings, the people living 
in small villages. At Sijed, the next stop, there appeared 
to be nothing but a station. "We had been gradually going 
up. At this place there are no groves, nothing but grain 
land. Along here is the grave of Samson. The next 
place was Der Aban. The last stage was nothing but 
desolation, mountains covered with stone. We also went 
slowly, as it was getting steeper. Bitter is the last sta- 
tion. Going to this place the track ran along a ravine 
between great rocky mountains, the mountains of Judea. 

This was a grand and picturesque stretch. The last 
town was built on the side of a great hill. All the way 
up are terraced gardens. From there to Jerusalem are 
more terraced gardens. Just before reaching the station, 
just to the left, is the summer residence of the Greek 
patriarch; on the right, the ruins of the Templars. The 
station was almost a mile from the city gate. This is 
reached by a winding, rocky road, up hill and down. It 
was 5 when we arrived, just getting dusk, and having 
heard of the narrow crooked streets of the city I hustled 
along to get located as soon as possible. On arriving at the 
Jaffa gate all my fears fled as there were twenty different 
hotels within a few blocks, and I gave a mighty sigh of 
relief and gladness when I sighted a Y. M. C. A. sign. I 
first obtained something to eat and then wandered around 
for probably an hour. Looked at two different hotels 
that looked as if they might not be expensive and then 
went to the Y. to see what I could find out. On entering 
a small room I found a small table loaded down with 
magazines, as well as a number of shelves containing 
books. A Turk was the only occupant of the room. I had 
just gotten nicely interested in a magazine when a young 
Turk came in and introduced himself and said that he was 
a member of the Y. He also stated that the secretary was 
away at present. On my asking him about lodgings he 
took me to a sanitarium, run by Germans, where I ob- 
tained lodgings, the rate not being too exorbitant. I 
then went back to the Y. and read for awhile, going to 
bed at 9. 



264 JERUSALEM 

DECEMBER 17. Arose at 8 and had not finished 
dressing when my Turk friend showed up. He had told 
me the night before that he was a guide and had offered 
his services, but I had given him to understand as plainly 
as possible that I had a limited amount of money and 
never employed guides. I told him this again this morn- 
ing and I suppose I will be pestered all the time I am 
here. In a book I ran across in Italy it mentioned some- 
thing about allowing the mind to go back to all the Sun- 
day school lessons one had learned. It is hard to do this 
when a person is continually pestered by some one. 

After getting rid of my Turk friend I went down to 
the Jaffa gate and then through two long streets to a 
great bazaar. The street was only a few feet wide and 
was filled with small shops and stands on every side. I 
got some cakes at one stand and then went on to the end 
of the street when I came out near the southern wall. I 
climbed up on the wall and drank in the wonderful view. 
The great waterless valley of the Kedron was below and 
barren hills on every side, and while standing here in- 
numerable camels and donkeys passed, a great many of 
them loaded down, with sides and quarters of meat. No 
meat for me while here. 

Following along the inside of the wall I passed a school 
and came out upon a square surrounding an old temple. 
This was a great walled enclosure containing two splendid 
mosques — Omar and El Aksa, The first was built by the 
Caliph Omar in A. D. 637 on the ruins of the temple. 
Prom the walls where I was sitting I could see the great 
domes of each mosque and in the distance the Mount of 
Olives. I stayed here for some time writing and admir- 
ing this view. I was interrupted several times by work- 
men near by. I expected to find it quite cool here, but 
it is not at present. 

After this I went back a little and then along a street 
lined with meat stalls. After seeing this I felt as if I 
did not care to eat meat again as long as I lived. Just 
at the end was Zion gate. Just outside of this were ceme- 
teries, the great Armenian Convent and the magnificent 
Armenian Church with a great tower and dome. The 



JERUSALEM 265 

church was closed and I spent a few minutes watching 
Jewish maidens filling great skin water bottles in the 
courtyard, no doubt the same kind of bottles that had 
been used for thousands of years. After being handed 
a drink by one of the maidens I continued a little farther 
until I got lower down in the great valley. On the hill 
across to the north and west were modern suburbs and 
there were a few olive orchards and gardens. This hill 
was not as desolate in appearance as most of the sur- 
rounding country. 

After this I went back to the Jaffa gate and had dinner 
in a small stall run by a Turk. I am sure I am the first 
American that ever ate in this place. For company I had 
Jews, Arabs and Turks. One Arab had finished dinner 
and was engaged at his noonday devotions. I made out 
a very good dinner on a slab of scone-like bread, a big 
dish of beans and a couple of glasses of water. After 
resting a little I went out and watched the crowd in front. 
Generally there are about twenty-five carriages, in all 
stages of dilapidation, strung along here. These mostly 
go to Bethlehem and smaller villages, as well as to the 
Mount of Olives. The whole outfit — drivers, horses and 
vehicles — were the most poverty stricken looking propo- 
sition I ever laid eyes on, and they were all pushing and 
shoving and hollering together trying to secure customers. 

I then took a long walk along the Jaffa road to the north 
wall and followed this to the Damascus gate. Stopped 
here for a few minutes to watch a great crowd surging 
in and out and to size up the people who were selling 
produce. I continued along to the end of the wall and 
then along a road to the side until I came opposite St. 
Stephen's gate. Near this point the road turns east and 
crosses the Kedron valley. Near a small bridge to the left 
is Mary pond. Near the bridge is a rock which is sup- 
posed to mark the spot where St. Stephen was stoned. 
Just across to the right of the sepulchre is the church of 
St. Mary's. This is on one side of an enclosed garden. 
Around the wall are fine relief pictures of "All the "Way 
to Calvary." The church was closed. To the left is the 
Garden of Gethsemane. This is a small barren enclosed 



266 JERUSALEM 

place containing a few olive trees. Next I came upon a 
Russian church, not large but crowned by grand golden 
domes. I then retraced my steps to the garden and fol- 
lowed a footpath to the top of the Mount of Olives and 
there I found a wretched village. On the way up was the 
ruin of an old mosque. On this spot Christ is supposed 
to have stood when in sight of the splendid city and burst 
into tears deploring its fate. On gaining the top I went 
into a small chapel. On the floor in the center was pointed 
out the imprint of the foot of Jesus, and it was near here 
he was supposed to have ascended into heaven. 

A little farther on I came upon a great wall enclosing a 
number of buildings belonging to the Russian Church. 
Among these was a small church and alongside a great 
tower 200 feet high. A winding stairway reached to the 
top and a wonderful view was gained from this point. To 
the east mountains, the River Jordan and the Dead Sea, 
to the north and east more mountains and to the west the 
city proper. I commanded a splendid view of the temple 
square and the two mosques it contains. This square con- 
tains an area of about 1,500 feet and is paved with stone 
flags. The splendid Omar mosque built on the site of the 
temple is the main building. This is supposed to have 
been the spot where Abraham offered up Isaac. The 
mosque is a splendid looking building. It rises in the form 
of a mighty octagon from a platform ten feet high to 
which a flight of marble stairs surrounding the entire 
building forms the ascent. Each of the eight sides is 
sixty feet long and overlaid in the lower part with mar- 
ble. Above the roof a mighty cupola is seen soaring be- 
yond the drum into which the windows are broken. The 
other mosque is not so interesting and is plain in ap- 
pearance. After feasting my eyes on this view for nearly 
an hour I went down and started for home, going back 
through St. Stephen's gate. 

I went right through the city until I came out at the 
Jaffa gate. After supper went to the Y. M. C. A. and 
after reading awhile had the pleasure of listening to a 
lecture on the mosquito. Most of the auditors were 
Moslems. An English minister opened with prayer and a 
Moslem closed with same service. After this I went to bed. 



JERUSALEM 267 

DECEMBER 18. Arose at 8, went down through the 
bazaar and had breakfast, sitting on a broken wall. I 
then went on to the west wall of Temple Square and passed 
out of the small gate on the south side of the city. Just 
below, running down a steep hill to the bottom of the 
valley, were a number of vegetable gardens. I admired the 
view awhile and then continued down toward the east, 
coming out near a bridge which crosses the Brook Kedron. 
Near here is the tomb of Absalom, a square block cut from 
the rock, being a drum and cone. It was about fifty feet 
high. Behind this is the sunken tomb of Jehosaphat. A 
little farther along the road leads to Bethany. Next this 
is the pyramid of Zachariah, a monument hewn from the 
rock. Above this road are Jewish gravestones. I spent 
considerable time wandering among these, climbing to a 
higher road. At this point I must have spent an hour 
watching a Jew plowing. He used an old-time, primi- 
tive, wooden, one-handled plow, a small pony being the 
motive power. Where he was plowing it seemed to be one 
mass of small stones. A number of girls were breaking 
up some of these with picks. After this I started back for 
dinner. "Went through St. Stephen's gate, and just inside 
it turned to the left, where there was an opening looking 
toward the Temple square. Inside was a great common 
and the Omar Mosque was in plain sight. As there was 
no one stationed here I supposed it was all right to go 
through. Luckily for me, I went along close to the wall, 
not approaching near the mosque, but when I was within 
a couple of hundred feet of the central gate a crowd of 
Turkish boys happened to see me and they came for me 
like mad dogs, throwing stones as they ran, and it is a 
miracle I was not killed, as before I got to the gate, and 
the soldiers could head them off, they must have thrown 
a hundred stones. Several struck me, but only two did 
any damage, one striking the side of my foot and the other 
(a large one) getting me in the small of the back. I man- 
aged to limp to the restaurant, but after I had dinner I 
could hardly stand, so went to the Y. M. C. A. and spent 
the rest of the time reading and writing till I went to bed 
at 9. 



268 JEEUSALEM 

DECEMBER 19. After breakfast went down to Jaffa 
gate to take a carriage for Bethlehem. There was not 
much of a rash apparently, so sat down on a bale of rags 
to wait. 

It looks as if one more beautiful day was ahead of me. 
On putting my foot to the ground I found it was quite 
lame. As I was waiting a splendid equipage came into 
town. This contained two grand German officers. "What 
I had taken for bales of rags turned out to contain pieces 
of merchandise and I watched the process of unloading 
these and putting into bags to be conveyed to the bazaar 
on the backs of men. 

Finally at 10 I got started for Bethlehem. Passing by 
the Eye hospital the road continued along through a deso- 
late country. On an elevation about a mile to the right 
was the palace of the Armenian patriarch. 

On the left was the fountain of the three kings where 
the wise men saw the star. The road continued to rise 
to the highest point of the mountains, and near the top 
was an old convent. 

A splendid view was obtained from this point. To the 
left in the distance was seen the Dead Sea, and beyond 
the mountains of Moab. Gradually descending we passed 
near the tomb of Herod I. Then a little further along 
the tomb of Rachael was passed on the right. This is a 
cupola-like structure. 

A little further along was David's well. We then 
turned into a side road and started to climb and shortly 
were in the city. 

We went quite a distance along a narrow street and 
then were dumped out. I walked along this street until 
I came to an open square, where is situated St. Mary's 
Cathedral, built over the place where Christ was born. 

The church was almost square in shape, surmounted by 
small domes. The interior was divided by four rows, each 
composed of eleven reddish monoliths, into five naves of 
which the central was the broadest. 

Directly underneath the large chancel the Holy Birth 
Grotto is situated. This is gained by a narrow stairway. 
The grotto is thirty-six feet long, twelve wide and nine 



BETHLEHEM 269 

high. The walls and floor were overlaid with marble. 
On a niche on the east side were fifteen lamps which are 
perpetually lighted. Six belong to the Greeks, five to 
Armenians, and four to Latins. 

On the marble floor a star was seen surrounded by a 
Latin inscription, which interpreted means, "This is the 
spot where Christ was born." On the opposite side, 
three steps lower down, we found the Chapel of the 
Manger where a marble manger with brown walls and 
white floor was to be seen. 

In the passage to the left of the chapel a round hole in 
the altar was seen. This was the well used by the Holy 
family. The church was built by Constantine in 330. 

After spending some time here I went out and along a 
wail in the passage for some distance until I found an 
opening, and seating myself on the wall admired the 
splendid view. I was prepared to find beautiful fields and 
grass plots here, but such was not the case. 

The land was more cultivated than at Jerusalem, but 
was almost as rocky, and it is all toil trying to cultivate 
it. Prom where I was sitting, directly in front and to the 
right and left, there was a steep decline into a narrow 
valley, and then just as steep an ascent up three hills. 

These are covered with terraced gardens. Beyond are 
desolate, stony hills, and in the distance beyond the Dead 
Sea, which cannot be seen, are the desolate Moabite moun- 
tains. 

After feasting on this view awhile, it now being nearly 
1, I went back through the church to the square wmere I 
could see down into the valley and across the opposite side. 

At this place a number of men were doing some dig- 
ging, others carrying sand and rock in small sacks and two 
trying to break a large rock in two with a wedge. 

I sat down on a rock and admired the view, observing 
the work and noting the passers-by. Just a little further 
on was the Armenian church. This is a new church, built 
of small blocks of stone, and having a very pretty stone 
steeple. 

There was also a small dome. Going back almost to 
the point where we entered the town I came upon the 



270 BETHLEHEM 

school, hospital and church of the Sisters of Mercy. A 
low building surrounded the court and at the rear was a 
small church built of blocks of light stone. On top was a 
statue of Christ. 

Two successive stairways lead to the entrance. On the 
first landing is a statue of the Virgin. The interior is 
very beautiful. On either sides are niches for four altars. 
In each case two small, pink marble pillars uphold an 
arch. 

The main altar was in an alcove in front and was a 
dream of beauty. It was made of white and pink marble 
with gold trimming. On top, upheld by four small pil- 
lars, was a canopy over the cross. 

In a niche in the wall was a statue of the Virgin. There 
were four other altars composed of figures. Small pic- 
tures of "All the Way to Calvary" were on the walls. 
There were also a number of beautiful painted windows. 

On coming out I walked around the grounds and 
orchard and then went down the road towards Jerusalem. 
I stood for some time admiring the view until a rig came 
along headed for the city, when I climbed in and went back. 

It took only one-half hour to travel the six miles. I 
never rode with such a reckless driver. It was a gallop 
up hill and down. Part of the time in making quick 
turns the rig was traveling on one wheel. 

On landing at Jerusalem I went into a store and spent 
a little time picking out a bunch of cards, as I expect to 
send quite a number from this place. 

As I was going out I was accosted by a gentleman, who 
turned out to be an American from Milwaukee, and finding 
out he was alone, and just a common, ordinary person, I 
took him up to the Y. and we talked until 7. 

"We then parted after agreeing that I should call for 
him in the morning. I then had supper, went to my room 
and wrote until 9, when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 20. After breakfast, hunted up Mr. 
Cullmann, my American friend, and we started out. I 
took him down through the underground streets and along 
by the bazaars to the west wall of the Temple square, then 



JERUSALEM 271 

out from the small gate on the south side of the city. "We 
stopped awhile and admired this grand view and then 
continued around toward the east side. "We crossed the 
Jehosaphat valley, coming out near Absalom's and Zach- 
ariah's tombs. After viewing these we went on to the 
Gethsemane garden and St. Mary's church and then up 
toward a beautiful Greek church, but did not turn at the 
right place and so continued on to the top of the Mount of 
Olives, through a little village to the gate of the Eussian 
grounds. I stayed outside and did some writing while 
Mr. Cullmann went in and looked around. When he re- 
turned we went on about a half a mile north to the highest 
peak of the Mount. This was Vira Galilae, which means 
the "Vineyard of the Hunter." Here two fragments of 
columns marked the spot where the two white robed men 
stood at the ascension of Christ and addressed the gazing 
disciples. Most of the mount is walled in and contains 
several buildings, a grand church being among the number. 

We then turned back and going down the Mount en- 
tered St. Stephen's gate. Just inside the entrance was 
the first station of "All the Way to Calvary." The second 
station was under a staircase that leads to the Turkish 
barracks. The third was the celebrated Ecco Homo arch, 
from the top of which Pilate was said to have cried out, 
' ' See ! What a man. ' ' Here an arch dating from Roman 
times stands, the street forming the middle portion of the 
triumphant arch. The third station was marked by a 
broken column near the church of the Armenians. On 
this spot Christ was said to have fallen under the weight 
of the cross. 

The fourth station was at the end of this street and is 
where Mary met the Saviour. We now turned westward. 
Here we came to the corner house of the rich man and the 
fifth station. This is where Simeon of Cyrene took the 
cross. The sixth station was 200 feet further on at the 
reputed dwelling and tomb of St. Veronica, who here hand- 
ed a handkerchief to the Saviour, which showed his picture 
after he had used it. The seventh was reached after pass- 
ing an archway at the so-called Judgment gate, from 
which Jesus is said to have been taken out of the city. 



272 JERUSALEM 

The eighth was near the Coptic Church. The ninth was 
a little farther along and the other stations inside of the 
Sepulchre Church. We did not enter the church but went 
on to Jaffa gate, where we parted, each going to dinner. 
I afterwards went to the Y., reading and writing until 
1 :30, when Mr. Cullmann showed up. We then went 
through the Jaffa gate and bazaar to the Sepulchre 
Church. The main entrance was in the south and ad- 
joined a rather inferior entrance court, paved with stone 
flags, the court at all times being filled with beggars. This 
court, which contained chapels on both sides, had on the 
left a partially walled-up belfry. Just inside the vesti- 
bule where a sentinel is stationed, was the so-called anoint- 
ing stone, where Christ's body was supposed to have been 
anointed for burial. Above this in large costly lamps the 
candlesticks burn the tapers of the Latins, Greeks, Rou- 
manians and Copts. Just to the left was a rotunda of the 
Holy Sepulchre, which was originally built in 330. In 
the center of the rotunda the Holy Sepulchre is situated. 
The actual sepulchre chapel was built in its present form 
in 1800. In front of the entrance, to which several steps 
lead up, there stand two large candlesticks. The interior 
consists of two apartments. The so-called angels' chapel 
is decorated with gold and silver and its walls are covered 
with marble. 

This is said to be the same stone rolled away by the 
angels. In the chapel fifteen lamps were burning — six 
Latin, four Greek, four Armenian and one Copt. A low 
aperture, through which an entrance is gained by stoop- 
ing, opens into another chamber. This is six feet long and 
five feet wide and can hold only a few people at a time. 
In the recess to the right of the entrance to the church is 
a marble gravestone on which mass is said daily. To the 
right of the rotunda is a chapel belonging to the Greeks. 
The walls of this are beautifully decorated in gold. Be- 
yond this is a small chapel and here is where Christ is 
supposed to have appeared to Mary Magdalene. Two 
marble rings in the floor mark the supposed place. After 
ascending a few steps we came upon a Cappantur Chapel. 
In another part under the altar a stone is shown where the 



BETHANY 273 

grave is supposed to have stood. Some distance away, a 
stone, surrounded by a high railing, marks the spot where 
Mary was supposed to have knelt while Christ was on the 
cross. Just outside the square of the church is the beauti- 
ful Church of the Redeemer, a fine building of white 
stone, surmounted by a grand tower. The interior is very 
rich in marble, pictures, statues and fine windows. After 
finishing here we started out to locate the wailing wall 
of the Jews and after considerable trouble found it. This 
is a part of the west temple wall. Here the Jews gathered 
to lament the destruction of the temple. 

"When we came here about twenty were busily at work 
howling at the top of their lungs. After this we found our 
way to the south wall and coming to a low place, climbed 
up and admired the view, then we went toward the west 
until we came out at the south gate, passing the convent 
and a grand church, then walked down toward Jaffa, stood 
awhile to watch the bustle and then to the Y. where we 
stopped until 7. Separating, I had supper and went to 
my room where I wrote until 9, when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 21. I rose at 7, wrote until nearly 9, then 
hunted up Mr. Cullmann and we went down through the 
city to Stephen gate and along the road that winds around 
the foot of the Mt. Olives to Bethany, which is at the 
present time just a collection of huts. 

Near the highest point of the village is where Lazarus' 
house stood and near by is his grave. The spot where the 
house of Mary and Martha lived is also pointed out. After 
viewing this place we continued down along a winding 
road to the Apostle 's Spring where Jesus with His disciples 
used to stop on His way to and from Jerusalem. 

It was very warm when we arrived and a Moslem was 
busy washing his feet. After he finished we had a drink 
and then went back by the footpath, this leading straight 
up to Bethany and was a good deal shorter road but very 
rough and stony. On arriving at the top we were both 
covered with perspiration. Not caring to sit down for fear 
of catching cold, we continued back to the city. It was 
12 :30 before we arrived at Jaffa gate, after a fine walk of 
ten miles. 



274 JERUSALEM 

After dinner I went to the Y. and wrote and read until 
2 :30 when Mr. Cullmann called and we started out again. 
This time we went down through the city to Damascus gate 
and thence north along the road leading to Nazareth, pass- 
ing a collection of convents and hospitals, buildings of 
the Germans and French, and continued on out beyond 
the city. "We were looking for the tombs of the kings but 
we could not find them. Finally, coming back, we stopped 
at the English Church and were directed. The entrance to 
the tombs was through a wall, then we went down along a 
flight of steps and at the bottom turned to the left into 
a large court. At one side was an opening into a tomb 
with a great stone on one side. On going in we found sev- 
eral rooms and stairways leading to rooms below. This 
was something like the Catacombs at Rome only on a 
smaller scale. On going out we went back through the 
town, just getting to Jaffa gate at 5. Here I bought some 
provisions and went to my room where I wrote until 9, 
when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 22. After breakfast I wrote until 9 then 
I took a walk, bringing up at the American Mission 
Church. Here I heard a splendid Christmas sermon 
preached by Mr. Thomson from Toronto. On the other 
side of the small room were seated boys and girls from 
the Mission School. After church the minister showed 
me through the main part and also the parsonage. I then 
went to a restaurant and had dinner. Next went to my 
room where I wrote for some time, then was interrupted 
by a visit from Mr. Hensan, my Turkish friend, who stayed 
until 2, when* I had to go to Mr. Cullmann 's hotel. On going 
to his room I seated myself and waited until he finished 
some writing, when we went for a walk, going up through 
the grandest part of the city, and then along past the 
consulates and grand residences to the end of the sub- 
urbs. After staying awhile to admire the view we turned 
back to Jaffa gate and went along the inside of the wall, 
then leaving the city by a small gate on the south side of 
the city into the west wall of the Temple Square. Went 
down across Kedron brook and valley, passing the tombs of 



JERUSALEM 275 

Absalom and Zachariah to the Garden and then climbed 
the rough path to the top of the Mount of Olives. After 
taking a good look at the city we turned back, entered the 
town at Stephen's gate; when we parted. After I had 
supper I went to my room and read and wrote until 9, 
when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 23. After breakfast I met Mr. Cullmann 
and we strolled through the bazaars and many narrow 
streets until 12. After dinner I went to the Y. and read 
until 3, when we again took a long walk out from the north 
suburb. Coming back we went into a great Russian 
Church and listened to the services. Then down to the 
Jaffa gate, where we stayed awhile watching the endless 
stream of traffic. Then I had supper and went to my 
room and wrote until 9, when I turned in. 

DECEMBER 24. After breakfast Mr. Cullmann and I 
strolled around and talked until 12. After dinner I went 
to the Y. as usual and read until 2, when Mr. Cullmann 
came along and we had the last stroll past the bazaars out 
to Zion Hill and passed cemeteries and then down hill and 
up among tombs of the Turkish Cemetery and then on to 
Jericho road, then back around the walls to Solomon's 
Quarries, which run underneath the wall just east of 
Damascus gate. The door being locked we just looked in 
but could see nothing but a great opening. We then went 
through Damascus gate and up through the bazaar to 
Jaffa gate, when I bought some provisions for supper and 
breakfast, then I went to my room where after eating I 
finished the letter to Detroit, going to bed at 9. 

DECEMBER 25. I arose at 5, finished the letter to 
Detroit, had breakfast and then saying good-by to my 
host, started for the station but stopped at the postoffice 
to post the letters and cards. I arrived at the station be- 
fore 7, wrote a little when Mr. Cullmann came along and 
we bought our tickets and boarded a train and at 8 we 
said good-by to Jerusalem. The sun was shining very 
brightly but there was quite a wind and it was cold, but 



276 JAFFA 

I did not enjoy the trip as I was worrying about the 
chances of going aboard ship at Jaffa. On arriving at 
Jaffa we were pounced on by a dragoman " guide" who 
offered to take us aboard ship for two francs (40 cents) 
apiece. It did not take me a moment to agree to this, and 
shouldering Mr. Cullmann 's suit case he started for the 
landing, stopping at a French postoffice for Mr. Cullmann 
to post some letters, then on a little further past the land- 
ing to the ticket office. 

On the way we were held back because the street was 
choked with camels. After getting our tickets we went 
back to the landing and were bundled into a boat and taken 
more than a half mile to the ship. Half of this distance 
the trip was fearful. I expected any moment to see the 
boat swamp, but we finally landed at the ship, drenched 
with water. 

There we had the usual argument with the dragoman 
who wanted more than he had bargained for. I was satis- 
fied that he had earned the little extra and gave him the 
additional tip. As it was just noon we ate some lunch 
purchased on the way and then went into the smoking 
room, talked and wrote until 3, then went to take a walk 
around, watching the crowd until the boat started at 6. 

At 7 Mr. Cullmann went down to supper and I finished 
up provisions I had brought on board. 

At 8 Mr. Cullmann came up and we talked till after 12 
when we said good-night and I made a bed for myself out 
of a few pieces of canvas. 

DECEMBER 26. I was routed out at 7 o'clock and 
w r atched the ship brought in to the harbor where we an- 
chored at 8. It then developed that our boat had taken 
on coal from an infected port and that we were to be 
quarantined, from this time until 12 o'clock. There were 
all kinds of rumors in regard to what they were going to 
do. Mr. Cullmann was running around like a chicken 
with its head cut off. He intended going on to Alexandria 
and expected to catch a boat for Greece. I was not both- 
ered much because a day more or less would make no 
difference. At 12 the first and second class passengers 



POET SAID 277 

were loaded into one barge and the third class into the 
other and we were towed a couple of miles down the canal 
to the quarantine station, being told that we would be 
held until tomorrow afternoon. 

On landing we stayed on the pier for a time then went 
through a long passage, through a house where the fumi- 
gating process was located, to a long low building divided 
into small rooms, all opening on a porch. I had located a 
couple of Indians who could speak English, and with two 
Arabs and Afghans we took possession of a room. There 
were about fifty of us all together. All were Asiatic and 
Africans but myself. After putting my baggage in my 
room I sized up our home. The canal was on one side, 
another building on the other and nothing but sand in 
sight. It was bright and warm and no wind. This is a 
blessing, as the sand would have smothered us if it had 
been windy. I had eaten nothing since the night before 
and was mighty hungry and beginning to wonder if any- 
thing in the eating line was coming to hand. We had 
all been mulcted a good sum before leaving the boat and I 
understood this was to pay for food. It was not until 5 
o'clock that any showed up, and at that time one of the 
guards came along with a huge basket of bread and we 
had to pay a famine price for this. I obtained a couple 
of loaves. It did not take me long to make a meal of the 
smaller one. I had been hungry in America, but I never 
yet had to make a meal of a loaf of bread. 

After this I wandered around a little and then sat down 
on the sunny side of the building until 6 o'clock. 
I then went into the room and prepared for bed. There 
we had no beds — just a piece of matting on the stone 
floor. I took off my coat and used it for a pillow and 
my overcoat for a coverlet. Shortly one of the attend- 
ants came in and looked around and afterward came back 
with a mattress, a pillow and a couple of blankets and 
made signs to me to get up. He spread them down and 
went on his way, after I had thanked him. I do not 
know the reason for this unless some one of the first class 
passengers happened to notice me and wanted to see that 
I was made comfortable. I was the only one of our crowd 
who had a bed of this kind. 



278 PORT SAID 

DECEMBER 27. Arose at 8 and after performing my 
ablutions at the hydrant I ate the balance of my bread 
and then wrote up my diary. About this time all the men 
had to line up and show their tongues and have their 
pulses felt. After this I strolled up and down or sat in 
the sun till noon, when I obtained another small loaf of 
bread for dinner. Afterwards strolled and conversed with 
one of my Indian friends who had acted as a professor in 
the English College at Jaffa. I gave him a Detroit paper 
which I had in my pocket, then I wrote till 3, when we 
were told to get ready and pile on a barge. At 4 we said 
good-by to .our temporary home and shortly afterwards 
were landed at the Custom House. I fooled around for 
some time helping the other fellows and then went to the 
Hotel Athens, where I had stayed before, and paid for a 
night's lodging, then had something to eat. After this 
I located the postoffice and on inquiry was disappointed 
to find no mail. I then wanted to locate the station so 
that I would have no trouble in the morning as I intended 
to leave early for Cairo. 

Going to the Seaman's Mission I was told the station 
was only a couple of blocks away. I stopped and had 
quite a talk with a young fellow in the mission, getting 
information about Cairo and boats to Bombay. I then 
located the station, obtained information wanted and 
started back for my hotel. 

It was now quite dark and the streets were poorly 
lighted, and without any warning I was struck down, and 
when I awoke I was robbed of all my money — about 
$80.00. This was in English gold and French silver. They 
didn't take my watch or American Banker's checks. It 
was lucky for me I had my bed paid for. As I had seen 
no one I had no idea who could have done it, and as I 
wanted to go to Cairo in the morning I was afraid to 
make any complaint to the authorities for fear of being 
held as a witness, so just swallowed the lump in my throat 
and said good-by to the money. 

On reaching my hotel I at once sat down and wrote to 
my bankers to have them send a hundred dollars to 
Manila. I was lucky in not being killed. 



CAIRO 279 

I then went around till I finally got one of my checks 
cashed, and then as I was tired and my poor head was 
pounding I went to bed. 

DECEMBER 28. After breakfast went to the station 
where I wrote till the train started at 8. It was cloudy 
and quite chilly this morning. The track followed along 
the Suez Canal and there was little else in sight than 
sandy desolation. 

"We stopped at a number of stations, but Ismailia was 
the only town of any size. "We reached here at 10. It was 
still cloudy and cold. How glad I am it was not like this 
when we were at the quarantine station. 

Abouthamid was the next fair sized town. For some 
distance before reaching this place we passed consider- 
able cultivated land. Zagaziz is quite a city and a great 
crowd were gathered here. The next place was Minet el 
Gamh. The crowd at this place was very large and the 
noise was fearful. A number of men and women were 
crying on parting with loved ones. 

Baha is the next place — quite a city. This is a junc- 
tion. From here roads run to Suez, Cairo, Alexandria 
and Port Said. We stopped here for some time and the 
train filled to the limit. After this every foot of avail- 
able land was cultivated. At intervals were waterwheels, 
camels and cattle being the motive power for turning 
these and raising the water from canals. 

Arrived at Cairo at 1. On leaving station I thought 
I would be torn to pieces, but managed to get through 
the crowd, but one man was bound to follow and then 
another came along. I was headed for the "Soldiers' 
Home," and on arriving I found a fine large building. 

As the superintendent was not in I sat down and wrote 
till 4 when getting tired of waiting I went out and hunted 
up a lodging, then took a long walk on one of the main 
streets to a fine park. On attempting to enter I found 
there was some kind of an affair in progress. I then 
came back to the home where I read and watched the 
soldiers till 8, getting my supper in the meantime in the 
restaurant of the home. The room in which I was sitting 



280 CAIRO 

was a fine large place, having a number of lounges, set- 
tees, etc. There was also a number of tables covered with 
papers and magazines, as well as a case filled with books. 
Besides these there was a fine piano. I had almost for- 
gotten, there were also quite a number of games. I sat 
here till 9, when I went to bed. 

DECEMBER 29. After breakfast took a long walk to 
St. Andrew's Church where we listened to a very good 
sermon. Afterwards had dinner close by at a stall, and 
then took a long walk to the Nile along the banks for 
quite a distance. 

A number of houseboats were moored to the bank. I 
then strolled back to the "Soldiers' Home," where I 
wrote until supper time. Then after another long walk 
on the main street I came back to the home where I con- 
versed with a couple of soldiers until 8 when there was a 
meeting. After this I went home and to bed. 

DECEMBER 30. After breakfast walked several blocks 
to where a car started for the pyramids, boarded the car 
at 9, and took an hour to make the trip. 

We went right through the city, crossed the two 
branches of the Nile through the suburbs then out into 
the country, and what a grand ride it was ! 

I had been prepared to find Cairo a miserably dirty 
place with nothing but narrow streets, and instead was 
agreeably surprised to find the main portion a great mod- 
ern city having fine streets and modern business blocks. 

The signs on buildings and street corners are both in 
English and Arabic. If it was not for the Arabic signs 
and Oriental dress it would be hard to believe that this 
was not an American city. 

After passing the suburbs we came out into the country, 
the car track running along a small canal. The land was 
covered with men, women and children busily employed. 
Most of them were irrigating by hand, dipping water out 
of the canal and pouring it into troughs. 

On arrival at the end of the track a great outfit of 
donkeys, camels and guides were about. On entering the 



CAIRO 281 

ground I was surrounded on all sides by people wanting 
to show me something or other. 

Not far from the entrance were three great pyramids. 
At the foot of the largest one I counted 220 great rocks, 
and made out 130 layers to the top. I could not help 
thinking what a tremendous task it was getting all these 
great stones in place, and they must have been hauled 
for a considerable distance as there is no quarry within 
fifty miles. 

In the course of ages, it may be in thousands of years, 
they will disappear, as the stones are gradually crum- 
bling away. All around was sand except in a few cases 
where there was a layer of volcanic rock. 

Besides the three large ones there are five smaller pyr- 
amids. The great attraction was the sphinx. This is in 
a low place and appears to be cut from a solid rock, and 
the long ridge-like part behind is in a rough state and 
the figure looks much like its many pictures, the face 
being considerably disfigured. 

At this point I had a short talk with one of the guides 
who wanted information in regard to America. After 
spending a couple of hours wandering around I went 
back to the car station, and returned to the city in a dif- 
ferent direction, passing among others a grand museum. 

It was 1 when I finally left the car and obtained 
something to eat. I took a long walk, bringing up at the 
Soldiers' Home. There I spent the time until 4 con- 
versing with a soldier who had just come from India. 
He gave me valuable information in regard to places I 
expected to visit, and I partly repaid him by informing 
him in regard to Jerusalem. I then hunted up the Y. and 
the secretary not being in I didn't stay. 

A couple of blocks farther on was St. Joseph's, a grand 
Catholic church built of cement and crowned with a 
great dome. The three entrance doors were encircled with 
marble and over each is a scriptural painting. 

The interior was beautiful. There were great rows of 
marble columns on either side, also seven marble altars, 
and to the left of the main altar, in an alcove, was a 
grotto representing the interior of the stable where Christ 
was born. This is simply magnificent. 



282 CAIRO 

After this I went on a little farther coming to a great 
square where was situated the palace of the Khedive. 

This was a new building just completed, two stories 
high, built of beautiful sandstone. Counting the one 
wing it must have a frontage of 1,000 feet, and there were 
five splendid entrances. 

In the center of the open square a foot ball game was 
in progress and I stayed watching this until dark, and 
then started back and inspected a couple of typical nar- 
row streets. 

Going too far I got lost, wandering through a great 
market, and then after walking a mile or so along one of 
these narrow streets until finally seeing I would never 
get out this way, I turned and retraced my steps to the 
market, and from there made the right turn and finally 
got back to the Soldiers' Home. 

Here I had supper and afterward talked to my soldier 
friend from India until 9, when I went to bed. 

DECEMBER 31. "Wrote some cards and then went a 
short distance to the postoffice where I mailed them. After 
this I bought a great ring of Egyptian cake and ate this 
as I walked along one of the narrow streets leading 
toward the Citadel. This street is wider than some, but is 
lined with Turkish bazaars. The greater part of the way 
the upper stories extend out over the sidewalk. 

Just before coming to a great square were two huge 
Mosques. In each case they were built of muddy-colored 
cement blocks. On top was a great dome and two high 
towers. 

On a great hill across from the square is the Citadel 
and the finest Mosque in the city. This is a very large 
building built of mud-colored stone, faced with marble. 
A great tower rises from the center, and tall towers from 
the corners. To the left of the entrance are twenty mar- 
ble pillars supporting a portico. The entrance leads into 
a great enclosed court. This has a small Mosque in the 
center, and a row of marble pillars run around the out- 
side. Before entering I had to encase my feet in a pair 
of felt slippers. The interior of the Mosque proper is 



CAIRO 283 

a dream of beauty, the floor being covered with costly 
carpets. The walls are made of alabaster. In the center 
was the great dome and there were also four half domes 
surrounding it. Up near the top were a number of beau- 
tiful windows. The great pulpit was overlaid with gold. 
Several magnificent chandeliers hung from the ceiling. 
At one corner was the tomb of Mahomet Ali. This was a 
beautiful structure, apparently overlaid with gold. 

On coming out I went around to the other side and 
from here a wonderful view of the city and surrounding 
country is obtained. A fence of Stone and iron enclose 
the yard. 

In the wall of the church, near where I was standing, 
is supposed to be the well of Joseph. Immediately in 
front of me, near the center of the city, is the oldest 
Mosque in Cairo. This appears to be in a depression, and 
is surrounded by a high wall. To the left in the distance 
are the pyramids. All around are great hills. 

After walking along this coping for some time, ad- 
miring the view, I went down to the street, passing the 
different buildings that comprised the Citadel on the way 
out. I then kept on till I came to a restaurant near the 
Soldiers' Home, where I had dinner, then to the Home 
where I read for awhile, afterwards going to the Y. M. 
C. A. where I shook hands with the secretary and con- 
versed for some time, then went to the reading room and 
read a magazine. I then came back to the railway station. 
I got there just before the ticket window opened for the 
selling of tickets, and it was desperate the way they 
fought and scrapped, paying no attention to each other. 
When I was actually at the window several were reaching 
over my shoulder, from every direction. Finally I ob- 
tained a ticket and went aboard the train just before it 
started out at 6. 

I had procured some oranges and cakes and proceeded 
to make a supper of them. The running of this train was 
quite different from the one on which I came to Cairo, 
that being a local and stopping everywhere. This stopped 
only at the large cities. At one of the stations I was 
amused at seeing men falling on each other's necks and 
hugging and kissing when saying good-by. 



284 PORT SAID 

At 11 we arrived at Port Said and I lost no time in 
hunting up my former stopping place and going to bed. 

JANUARY 1. Went to the market and bought some 
oranges and cakes and ate some on the veranda of one 
of the bathing houses at the beach, meanwhile watching 
a crowd of Arabs drawing in a net. I watched this per- 
formance till nearly noon. Twelve men composed the 
crew and the outfit was a large boat and net about one 
thousand feet long and twenty feet wide, a long rope 
attached to either end. The modus operandi was for part 
of the crew to take the boat straight out from shore a 
short distance and then to go parallel to the shore till 
the net was all out, then run into the beach and a crew 
at either rope would gradually pull in the net which was 
loaded all the way along with crabs. In the very center 
would probably be 200 p'ounds of small fish, looking like 
sardines. I watched three hauls of this kind. The crew 
were all Arabs, barefooted, barelegged and mighty scantily 
clothed. 

I then went to the postoffice on my daily quest for 
mail and then to a restaurant, where I got my dinner. I 
stopped for a few minutes to listen to the music and 
watched the antics of the crowd at a small hotel. They 
were celebrating the New Year and a number of bunches 
of firecrackers were let off. 

After dinner I went to a small park close by where I 
rested and wrote a little. After this I took a long walk 
along the docks to the mouth of the canal and along this 
till I came opposite seven ships, which were discharging 
coal. Just to the left of this group was a sailing vessel 
lying up against the side of the bank, partly under water. 
I sat down here awhile and watched the operations of coal 
unloading. After this I went down town and made in- 
quiries in regard to ships leaving for Bombay. There 
was no regular passenger boat before next Sunday. I 
then went to the Seamen's Mission and came upon a 
young Englishman who had just landed from England. 
He had a horrible dose of the blues and I tried to jolly 
him up a little. In the meantime the people who run the 



PORT SAID 285 

mission were having tea, and we were invited in. Or- 
dinarily I would have refused but this being New Year's 
day I made an exception. I talked after tea: to this young 
fellow till 7, when I had supper, afterwards going down 
to the dock and watching a great Australian liner till 
she pulled out at 9, then went home and to bed. 

JANUARY 2. A very heavy wind was blowing most 
of the night. I went down to the docks and saw two boats 
anchored headed for the east. Then had breakfast and 
spent the time until 10 o'clock hunting up information 
about the boats. I sat down on the pier opposite one 
of these boats and did some writing, afterward going to 
the postoffice where I wrote until noon. After dinner 
continued writing until 4 o'clock and after this took a 
long walk through the Arabian part of the town, then 
to the mission where I stayed reading until 6 o'clock. 
After supper I took another walk and returned to the 
mission at 8. On entering I found a couple of young 
Englishmen who were up against it. They had come out 
here expecting to obtain employment as engineers with 
the railway company and did not succeed. They had 
spent all their money and applied to the Consul for pas- 
sage back to England. While I was talking to them the 
young fellow whose attack of the blues I had tried to 
cure the night before came in and we conversed until 
10, when I went to bed. 

JANUARY 3. Bought some oranges and cakes and 
went to one of the bath houses as usual to partake of the 
same and finishing I ran upon the "blue" friend who was 
sitting in front of one of the other bath houses and we 
conversed together for awhile and then walked over town, 
I wanting to see a party in regard to boats, and afterward 
I went down to the pier where I watched the people and 
three ships which were anchored close by. "While here 
a great German man-of-war steamed in to the harbor. 

At 12 I went to dinner and afterward to the mission 
where I read and talked till 6. After a short stroll had 
supper and started back to the mission, where I read until 
10 o'clock, when I went to bed. 



286 PORT SAID 

JANUARY 4. As usual made a breakfast of oranges 
and cakes. I then watched the fishermen bring in one 
haul with a great net. Next went to the postoffice and 
from there to the docks. There was only one boat at 
anchor which was going to Colombo. I sat down opposite 
and watched the passengers. In a few minutes an English 
boat came in and anchored not far away. I stayed here 
until noon, then found out the boat was not going my 
way. Afterward took a stroll to the mission where I 
stayed and read until 5 when I went down to the Austrian 
Lloyd to find out about their boat for Bombay. I ran 
across the Indian and the man from Afghanistan who had 
been my companions in quarantine. They were going to 
Colombo. After talking awhile I strolled around the sta- 
tion. "Went back to the mission where I sat writing and 
talking until 9, when I turned in. 

JANUARY 5. After breakfast went to the mission and 
read until 9, when I accompanied Mr. Locke, the mission- 
ary, and his son by boat to the upper harbor where a 
number of ships were anchored. He went up there with 
the purpose of inviting the crews to the meeting that 
would be held that evening. We had a long pull of one- 
half mile to the first ship. It was a lovely morning, the 
sun shining bright and warm, and the water was like 
glass. At the first ship the boy and I talked and at the 
next two I wrote while both father and son went aboard. 
A couple more were visited, this finishing that side of the 
harbor. We then pulled for the other end of the canal. 
Here I met with a bitter disappointment. The boat which 
I had been assured would not leave before the following 
Tuesday had pulled out Friday night for Bombay. We 
visited three other ships, but none of them were going in 
my direction. Coming back began to feel blue as I saw 
nothing but having to book passage by the Austrian 
Lloyd boat 

After dinner I went down to the docks only to learn that 
the Austrian Lloyd boat had left in the morning. Some 
way or another I felt that for some reason I was stopped 
from going with this ship. This was a severe disappoint- 



PORT SAID 287 

ment as it looked now as if I might have to wait for a 
week. I sat on the docks most of the evening. After 
an early supper I went to the mission where I talked 
until 8, when the crew came from the ships and we had 
a service consisting of song and prayer and then an 
address by Mr. Locke, finishing with a song and another 
prayer. After this I went home to bed. 

JANUARY 6. Bought some oranges and cakes and 
made a breakfast of these, then went to the postoffice 
where I wrote and sent off a couple of cards to Rome and 
Athens postoffices asking to have mail forwarded to Sin- 
gapore. I then went down to the dock and after watching 
a boat loaded with soldiers I happened to notice another 
ship and on inquiring found it was going to Bombay. I 
immediately went to the ticket office and procured a 
ticket. I then went to the mission and had quite a talk 
with Mr. Locke and he gave me a bunch of reading mat- 
ter. After saying good-by I went to the postoffice and 
finished up my letter to Detroit and then went aboard 
the ship. 

This appears to be a small boat for ocean traffic. The 
sum I paid for the ticket did not include the berth and it 
looks as if I would have to hang up on a nail. As I was 
to have meals I went to the cook and got some dinner, 
such as it was. My dinner consisted of macaroni soup, 
boiled beef and potatoes, and a portion of bread. I was 
also entitled to wine but as I do not drink anything of 
this kind, I had to be satisfied with water. I then did 
some writing. At 2 P. M. we started. Just before this 
several great boxes were swung onto deck and two men 
came aboard with them. These boxes turned out to con- 
tain powerful searchlights and dynamos that ran them. 
I watched the passing scenery along the canal until dark. 
Just before this a line was sent to the left hand shore 
from either end of the boat and we pulled in as close 
as we dare and stopped there while three other boats 
coming from Suez passed by. In the meanwhile it had 
become dark and our searchlight was put in operation. 

At 6 I had supper consisting of a large helping of some 



288 SUEZ 

kind of fish, a plate of beans and a portion of bread. I 
will mention now that I was entitled to wine both for din- 
ner and supper. After this I walked up and down until 
8, when I went up on the small fore deck and lay down 
on a long seat. 

I found a piece of canvas and this I spread down and 
for a pillow I used some magazines. I then spread my 
coat over my legs and drew my overcoat over my head but 
it being quite a cold night I was not very comfortable. 

JANUARY 7. Turned out a little before 7. We had 
just come through the canal and were anchored a couple 
of miles from the Suez. I watched the crowd loading the 
searchlight paraphernalia on a large boat and receiving 
a load of ice from another. After this we started for the 
Red Sea. I then had breakfast consisting of a large cup 
of very strong coffee and the usual portion of bread. I 
then wandered around, looking at this and that until 9, 
then went up on deck and wrote for some time. I made 
sure this morning what I supposed last night, that is, I 
am the only passenger aboard. It seems this is an extra 
cargo boat, in fact all the spare room on the lower deck 
is loaded down with coal. On account of there being no pas- 
sengers I had the run of the ship and at the time of writ- 
ing this I was sitting on the first class deck. I sat here 
until 11 and then went down on the fore-deck and watched 
a crowd shoveling coal into sacks and conveying it to the 
hold. After dinner I sat on the fore-deck until it got too 
chilly and then went down to the main deck and had a 
nap. 

At 4:30 I went to the fore-deck and watched the coal 
workers until 6. After supper I stood in the passage 
near the kitchen and watched the boys going in and out 
with the meals of the officers. At 7 I turned in. 

There was a steer on board which I supposed would be 
turned into fresh meat before the end of the voyage. I 
had noticed that hay was kept in a small room and on 
investigating made my bed here. This was at least warmer 
and out of the weather. By 8 I had fixed up a place and 
settled down for the night. 



RED SEA 289 

JANUARY 8. Was routed out by the boatswain be- 
fore 7. He seemed to be displeased at my choice of a 
berth. After breakfast as it was warm I sat on the fore 
hatch and read and wrote until 11, when I noticed a sail 
just in sight. 

This I watched until noon, when it hove in sight and 
then gradually disappeared. Just after this disappeared 
another came in sight, following us and apparently going 
faster. 

On coming out after dinner I counted three, the one 
following the other, and two going the other way. The 
wind still continues strong and the sea is running high. 

I have not seen anything of that red appearance yet. 
At 2 I lay down on the fore-deck and had a siesta until 
4, then got up and promenaded the deck. At this time 
a number of boats were in sight homeward bound. 

This day is the ninety-eighth anniversary of the battle 
of New Orleans. After this we had supper and as the 
boatswain had locked up my room I determined to hunt 
up the first officer and try and gain permission to use the 
same. Pound him on the quarter deck and on stating my 
business, he immediately came down with me to investi- 
gate. On my pointing out the room he called to the 
boatswain and told him to unlock the door and let me 
occupy it until the end of the voyage. 

This gave me a fairly comfortable place to sleep. After 
this the wind having ceased and being a beautiful warm 
starlight night, I sat down on the fore deck and gazed 
at , the stars until 9, when I turned in. 

JANUARY 9. Arose at 7, admired the beauty of the 
morning a few minutes and then went to breakfast. After- 
ward promenaded the deck until 11 :30, when after a 
wash, I had dinner. 

The cook discovered yesterday that I was fond of soup 
and I found a huge can awaiting me. This contained 
about half soup, the balance being beans and rice. 

For the first time I refused the ration of meat, making 
a grand meal of the soup and my portion of bread. There 
is one thing I can truthfully say, that whatever they have 

10 



290 RED SEA 

furnished me in the eating line has been well cooked. The 
bread especially is fresh baked and extra fine. 

After dinner I promenaded the deck for awhile. The 
sun was now very hot and I chose the shady side of the 
ship. I did not envy the crew who were still busy carry- 
ing coal from the fore deck as the sun beat in upon them 
mercilessly. A slight breeze came from the other end of 
the ship. 

At 2 I laid down in a shady place and slept until 4. 
Then going to the fore deck I stayed there until nearly 
5 enjoying the gentle breeze that was coming from the 
starboard bow, and watching a large steamer in the offing. 

I then went back to the fore deck where I watched the 
log awhile. After supper I went back and seated myself 
on the after hatch and gazed at the stars and conversed 
a little with the chef and a sailor. 

It was a beautiful night and I stayed there until 10 
when I turned in. 

JANUARY 10. Arose at 6:30. The sun was up and 
was already quite hot. A vessel was in sight on either 
side. 

I watched these until 8 when I had breakfast. After- 
ward I went to the fore hatch where I sat down for awhile 
and watched the ships. 

I then went up on the first class deck and wrote and 
figured and watched the water until 11 :30, when I went 
down below and had dinner consisting of about a quart 
of macaroni soup, a dish of meat and sauerkraut and 
my usual portion of bread. 

Afterward I immediately went up on deck, as it was 
quite hot, and read until 2. I then came down and tried 
to take a siesta in my usual place, but it was too hot. 

At 3 I went up on the first deck again and read and 
watched the sea until 6. After supper I went back on the 
after deck and lying down on the seat watched the stars 
and sea until 9 when I turned in. I was lying there in 
my shirt sleeves and even at that it was warm, although 
there was a gentle breeze. 

The sea was like glass and was also phosphorescent. "We 



RED SEA 291 

had kept in sight of a vessel all day and the last thing 
I noticed when I turned in were her lights. 

All the officers and the men and boys whose work is 
clean are now dressed in white canvas clothes. 

JANUARY 11. I arose at 7. After performing my 
ablutions I watched the ship which I kept in sight all 
day yesterday. It had gradually drawn near. After the 
usual breakfast I went back to the fore deck. 

At this time a number of rocks were just coming into 
sight. I gazed at these awhile and then went up to my 
old seat on the first class deck. It was already very hot, 
although the heat was tempered a little by a slight breeze. 

It is now that I appreciate being the only passenger, as 
the first class deck is the only place that is comfortable. 
I have shed coat, shirt, shoes and hat, wearing as little 
as possible. 

We are now directly opposite the rocks which are only 
about a mile away. I can count ten. A couple are small 
islands, three others are hardly noticeable above the 
water, and the others are about one hundred feet square. 

On the top of the farthest one there appears to be a 
small lighthouse. The ship is now between us and the 
largest rock, not more than a quarter of a mile away. It 
appears to be a cargo vessel very heavily loaded. I spent 
the time until noon reading and watching the water scape. 

"We have gradually drawn ahead of the other ship. 
Most of the time I was on the lower fore deck. 

The steer is tied here just at the entrance to the second 
class state rooms, and the poor animal appears to be nearly 
dead with the heat. One of the engineers amused him- 
self by tantalizing the poor creature with a piece of 
bread. 

Just before noon the captain put in his appearance and 
stood a few minutes talking with the chief engineer. 

After dinner I went on the fore deck and at that time 
a large ship was in sight. While watching this I dis- 
covered land, and this gradually outlined itself, there be- 
ing six small rocks and an island containing upwards of 
one hundred acres, the latter having a number of peaks. 



292 RED SEA 

At 3 we passed between two of the rocks and the 
island. 

We got the best view of the rocks, having been on the 
opposite side of the sun. "We were not more than forty 
rods from the nearest rock on the top of which was a 
small lighthouse. The rock appeared to be of a volcanic or 
coral nature, honeycombed like a sponge. 

I could not help thinking what a lonesome time the 
lightkeeper must have. No beach was in sight, and it 
would be impossible to approach the rock in stormy 
weather. 

As we passed the end of the island a number of smaller 
islands were seen in the distance. It was after 4 before 
we passed these. The other ship is still ahead, but we 
are gradually overhauling it. 

At 5 another group of small islands is passed. The 
crew are now busily at work cleaning down decks. To- 
morrow (Sunday) we expect to land at Aden. 

"We are slowly creeping up on the other ship. This 
seems to be a counterpart of our own boat, if anything 
being a trifle smaller. 

At 6 I went to the fore deck and found we were over- 
hauling another boat, apparently a cargo ship, as it was 
very slow. "We passed it almost the same as if it had been 
standing still. 

The different ships all exchange signals by means of 
lights, using a Morse code. 

At 6 I went in to supper. The other ship appears to 
have put on a spurt as we are still neck and neck. The 
breeze has freshened up into a fairly strong wind, and is 
dead ahead. 

At 7 we passed another ship. At 8 we came abreast 
of an island which has been seen for a long time. At this 
time I go to my cabin in the fore deck as I have some 
laundry work to do. In the day time the crew are using 
the tubs, etc. 

By this time the wind has increased to a gale, and the 
water coming in over the fore deck like a deluge I am 
nearly drowned in trying to get through. 

At 9 I turned in. As my room is near the front, about 



ADEN 293 

once a minute the water dashes clear over it, their being 
a fairly strong breeze. 

JANUARY 12. Arose at 7 after fitful slumbers. The 
wind has now tempered to a stiff breeze. 

On taking a look around the horizon a number of 
small and large islands are in sight on the starboard bow. 

After breakfast I went up the first class deck and 
wrote until 9. "We then passed the larger island, which 
is irregular, and mostly rocks, probably a couple of miles 
in length, and just ahead a few miles buildings are in 
sight. This must be Aden, as the crew are getting tackle 
of different kinds ready and the flag has been hoisted. 

The city appears to be built on an island which is sure 
a dreary, desolate looking piece of territory. The great 
headland juts out into the sea and we go to the left of 
this. 

The island appears to be of volcanic nature, apparent- 
ly being a mass of broken rocks. The harbor is an open 
roadstead. There were three English ships at anchor — 
one passenger and two cargo. Both of the latter are 
unloading. 

As we are coming in a small tug comes along and takes 
a line and as we come to anchorage swings us around 
with our bow pointing from the land. 

At 11 o'clock finally anchored. The city is built along 
the sides of the rocks and runs up into a small pocket 
which comes down nearly to the water's edge. 

From the deck I can make out signs on two buildings — 
Hotel de la Europe and Hotel Berlin. In looking at the 
town I can't help thinking what a horrible place it is 
in which to live. 

We had hardly stopped before being surrounded by a 
number of boats manned by Arabs, who were in all stages 
of nakedness. A few white men and other officials came 
aboard. I purchased a couple of post cards as souvenirs. 

By 12 two great barges had been brought alongside. One 
had a load of cargo for Bombay and the other was to re- 
ceive 4,000 sacks of sugar billed for this place. Continually 
until 7:30 the loading and unloading of cargo went on, 



294 ADEN 

three hatches being opened and four donkey engines at 
work. 

There must have been at least one hundred natives en- 
gaged in handling the cargo, and taking them altogether 
they were certainly an interesting study in color effects, 
running from light brown to black. Their dress was of 
every imaginable color and description, and in most cases 
mighty scanty — a breech clout or a short petticoat. Some 
smartened their appearance by various articles of cast-off 
raiments of the whites. One who had charge of a small 
crew wore a high peaked part of what had once been a 
lady's hat. 

They were all happy and carried on their work with 
song. The noise nearly deafened one. I would judge that 
six of these men do as much work as one American long- 
shoreman. The checkers and overseers looked like Indians 
and were beautifully arrayed in fine white suits, and on 
their heads wore pith helmets. 

Until 3 it was very hot. I could not find a cool place 
anywhere. Afterwards a breeze sprang up and it was not 
so bad. 

At this place I lost the honor of being the only passen- 
ger as about a dozen Indians came aboard. All but two 
traveled deck, the others and an Indian gentleman and his 
little boy traveled second class. Several merchants came 
aboard with ostrich feathers, tobacco, etc. 

At 8 we weighed anchor and started on our long trip of 
1,650 miles to Bombay. We are now farther south and will 
be traveling nearly east and a little north. 

After sitting on first deck until 9 I turned in. 

I just remember that it is 25 years ago today since the 
worst blizzard on record swept over the United States. 

JANUARY 13. On arising I spent a few minutes look- 
ing around the horizon. There was nothing in sight but a 
small sailing vessel. After breakfast I went up to my old 
seat on the first class deck, where I wrote and watched the 
water scape. At 11 :30 another small sailing vessel was 
overtaken. Excluding a few advertisements I have now 
completely devoured all reading matter obtained at Port 



ARABIAN SEA 295 

Said. Just before noon the steward handed me a customs 
manifest to make out. This was very easy as, I have very 
little luggage and nothing to pay duty on. After dinner I 
went to the fore deck, watching the coal crew at work 
until 2. A coolie from Aden is helping. According to his 
story he went to sleep on the ship before we started and is 
now on his way to Bombay against his will, and the chief 
officer put him to work with the coal gang. 

The wind is blowing quite strong and it is cool out of 
the sun. At 2 I lay down for a siesta. I stayed in my 
room dozing at intervals until 6, when I got up and had 
supper, consisting of a large plate of macaroni and meat 
with the usual portion of bread. I cannot speak too highly 
of this bread, and in all my experience of different makes 
and bakes I only remember three who could make as good. 

After supper I watched a group of Indians for awhile. 
Some were cooking, others eating and still others praying. 
These were Mohammedans. 

After this I lay down on the after hatch and gazed at 
the stars until 9. The beauty of a trip like this, where to 
all intents and purposes I am practically alone, as far as 
being able to converse is concerned, is that I am enabled to 
review my trip and see where I have made mistakes and 
resolve to do better in the future. I am also to look into 
the future and figure schemes both of pleasure and profit 
for myself and others. I have at last positively decided 
that if I reach Detroit safely to publish my diary and 
have thought out the context of a letter I expect to send 
from Bombay to a Detroit friend. At 9 o'clock I went to 
my room and turned in. 

JANUARY 14. During the night the wind increased 
to a gale but as it was astern, did not bother me much. 
Rose at 7. The first thing I did was to feed the poor steer, 
which was just outside of my door, some hay. I then took 
a look around and was just able to discern, from the star- 
board bow, the smoke of a steamer, headed for Aden. After 
a short promenade I went to breakfast and then did some 
laundry work. This is another advantage of being a 
lone passenger for so long. I could make myself at home 



296 ARABIAN SEA 

and take advantage of the facilities for bathing and doing 
laundry work. After this I sat down on the fore hatch 
and wrote and watched the waves and coal workers. I 
have forgotten to npte that I had already pushed my time 
ahead four times since leaving Port Said. At 12 I went to 
dinner and, on the way, I spied the Indian who came 
aboard at Aden. 

I went up to him and passed the time of day and asked 
if he had any English reading matter that I could borrow. 
He told me he had and while he was hunting something, I 
went after the magazines I had and handed them to him in 
exchange for a huge copy of the Life of Napoleon. As I 
had already been called for dinner I put the book away 
and proceeded to my private dining room, where I was 
served with an excellent dinner consisting of a huge can 
of rice soup and a large plate of meat and potatoes and the 
usual portion of bread. After dinner I started in on 
my book and read until 5. I then wrote awhile and gazed 
at the water scape, where the sailing vessel was seen from 
the starboard bow bound for Aden. There was a nice 
breeze that tempered the heat but the sea had only a per- 
ceptible ripple upon it. I then watched the coal gang until 
6 when I had supper, afterward going to the after deck, 
promenaded for awhile and then lying on the hatch 
studied astronomy until I turned in at 9. During the day 
I had lost my downy couch, the last of the hay being fed 
to the steer, and I had a stone floor to lie on, but I did not 
mind this. 

JANUARY 15. Arose at 7, took a look around the 
horizon and drank in a little of the grand air before going 
to breakfast. Afterward wrote and figured until noon. 
The crew finished the coal job early this morning and have 
been busy since washing up. After dinner promenaded 
a little and then started in reading the Life of Napoleon. 
This is an immense volume and will take all my spare 
time to finish it if I make it. I read until supper time and 
then after promenading went to my room and read until 9, 
when I turned in. 

The poor steer was killed and made into beef this after- 



ARABIAN SEA 297 

noon. It seems like a shame to kill and eat these poor 
creatures. I know from my own experience, that people 
could get along without the use of meat. 

JANUARY 16. Had a small-sized gale during the 
night which rocked the ship a little. Arose at 7 and went 
to breakfast. Afterward went to the fore deck and took a 
long look around in quest of a sail but there was nothing 
in sight. After promenading took a seat on the fore hatch 
and did some writing and figuring. Small fleecy clouds 
at times obscured the sun. The wind increased in vio- 
lence. At 9 I started in on my book once more. A part 
of the crew on duty are busily engaged in cleaning the 
decks and a couple of others are hard at work in the laun- 
dry line. I kept on reading until noon when I had dinner 
consisting of a large can of rice soup, a plate of peas and 
usual portion of bread. After dinner I read my book with 
slight intermission for exercise until 6, when I had sup- 
per and after another promenade went to my room where 
I read until 10, when I turned in. 

At this time the wind had increased to a gale and the 
sea was rising high. The whole fore deck was drenched 
by the water coming aboard. 

JANUARY 17. After having a good clean-up I had 
breakfast and then exercised for awhile. Afterward went 
up to my seat on the first class deck and sat there reading 
until I went to dinner at 12. Afterward I promenaded 
awhile and then went back to the first class deck where 
I read until 6. Rested at intervals to gaze out at the limit- 
less expanse of ocean. No sign of a sail of any kind. 

If anything would make a person think of the greatness 
of God and weakness of man it would be when making a 
trip like this. After supper a constitutional and then at 
my book again till 10, when I finished the main part of it. 
This has been a wonderfully interesting chronicle and I 
owe my Indian friend many thanks. I went to bed at 10. 

JANUARY 18. I arose at 7 after a fairly good night's 
rest, although the water was thundering over the deck all 



298 AEABIAN SEA 

night. The sun is shining brightly and the sea is very 
fierce looking. After breakfast I exercised a little, although 
it was very hard walking, the vessel rocking so much. 
After this I wrote a little and then went at my book once 
more. It contains not only the life of Napoleon but also 
a history of the second empire and a history of the Bona- 
partes. At 11 I quit and promenaded the deck until noon 
when I had dinner and then promenaded for awhile ; after 
this I talked and sat on the after hatch near where the 
Indians were located and watched the wild waves until 
6. Three venerable old patriarchs were going through 
their evening devotions. First a rug was spread down, 
then the devotee sat on one end of the rug for a few min- 
utes evidently wrestling in prayer, then he prostrated 
himself, the whole face being buried in the rug, and prayed 
again for a few minutes. Next he prostrated himself once 
more, the whole lasting one-half hour. After supper I 
went to my room and wrote for a time, then back to the 
after hatch. At this time I was taken with a peculiar kind 
of seizure, the like of which I had never had before. I 
felt as if the muscles in the lower part of my body would 
contract and break apart, the mere act of breathing would 
sever something. I stayed on the after hatch, not being 
able to get relief and not being able to figure out the cause 
of the trouble. In the meanwhile as I stayed here the 
same old men before retiring went through their devotions 
once more. At 9 went to my room with the prospects of a 
bad night ahead of me. "Water was coming in the door, 
and it was necessary to lay down boards to keep out of the 
water. 

JANUARY 19. I arose at 7 after putting in a bad 
night, as I could not lie in any position and obtain relief, 
although the pain this morning is localized and does not 
bother so much. After a look around I went to breakfast, 
and then went to my room, where I wrote for a time ; and 
then to the after deck and sat on the hatch and watched 
the sea and Indians until dinner. I filled up on a great 
pan of rice soup, and a portion of bread. I inquired for 
my Indian friend of the second class, only to be told that 



BOMBAY 299 

he was seasick. After dinner went back on the after deck 
and stayed there most of the afternoon. At 4 I went up 
on the after deck, and watched them take a sounding. At 
5 I got into conversation with a young Hungarian, "a 
steward," and did not leave him until 6. I finished up 
with correcting a letter for him. As I was finishing, the 
second class passenger made an appearance. I then went 
to my room, got his books and returned them. After 
supper I went to my room and did some writing, and then 
out on the after deck until 8, when I went to the bath- 
room and had a good wash and did some laundry work. 
Turned in at 10. 

JANUARY 20. On awakening at 2:30, I noticed we 
were just coming into a harbor. I rose at 7. We were then 
slowly making our way to the dock. After breakfast I 
watched the performance of bringing the ship in. It cer- 
tainly was a busy scene. All around, the vessels seemed 
to extend for miles in every direction and these were sur- 
rounded by barges. As we tied up a number of " touts " 
for hotels, etc., came aboard. One of these attached himself 
to me and it was not until I was some distance away from 
the ship that I finally shook him. 

On going out on the main street the first place I saw was 
the Seamen's Institute. I went in and spent some time 
looking over papers, then I had a conversation with the 
superintendent, who directed me to the Salvation Army 
hotel. I started to walk, but after wandering off the right 
road I made further inquiries and was advised to take a 
street car. A young Indian gentleman whom I accosted 
was going part way, and told the conductor where to put 
me off. 

It was a long ride and I was very glad I boarded a 
car. We passed some splendid buildings, notably the 
City Hall, a great Mosque and a fort. I alighted in a 
great square and only a short distance down a side street 
came upon the Salvation Army hotel, and here I hunted 
up the captain and arranged for a bed. I then went back 
to the square, and a short distance along a fine street, the 
Esplanade Road, to a small park. It was now 11 o'clock 



300 BOMBAY 

and the sun was very hot, so I went in here and stayed 
until 4, buying some lunch of a peddler who came along. 
On the other side of the park were some grand buildings, 
and on the other side of this the bay. All this time I just 
sat and watched the hundreds of different people coming 
and going. Trying to keep track of the costumes would 
be like doing the same thing in reference to women's 
HATS in an American city. The color of the people ran 
from white through all shades to black. Some were dressed 
in full regulation costume — white suit, slippers and pith 
helmet. There were others who had a piece of cloth 
wrapped around the legs. This fell down near the ankles 
and was drawn up between the thighs. They wore no 
socks, and were either barefoot or had on sandals. Some 
wore a shirt and a long white and black coat, coming down 
below the shirt; others just wore a shirt, while some did 
not even have on a shirt. The headdress was either a pith 
helmet, a small cap, a turban or a queer shining black hel- 
met. Some had their faces marked with paint, and some 
had a small round spot on the forehead. Some had a large 
ring or rings run through the top of the ear. Very small 
children went naked, others had on a breech clout. All the 
women I saw belonged to the poorer classes and wore a 
leg wrapping something like the men's, and a kind of 
swathing that covered the head and body. 

At 3 :30 I went over and investigated the fine buildings, 
finding out that they were a church and several other 
buildings making up the University of Bombay. Front- 
ing this was a splendid boulevard, running along parallel 
with the bay. A little further along was another fine 
building — the Law Courts. The Esplanade Road was a 
fine wide street lined with great stores, offices, banks, etc., 
the army and navy store being one of the finest of these. 

I then wandered back to the Salvation Army. In the 
vicinity of the great square two buildings were in the 
course of erection, and I took my station in a shady spot 
and watched the different operations. Everything was 
done by hand and in the slowest manner. A great number 
of women were employed carrying every kind of material 
on their heads. I then w T ent along to the bay. Bombay is 



BOMBAY 301 

built on an island and at this point was not more than a 
half a mile wide. I found a seat directly in front of a 
German restaurant, where the "ton" were having supper, 
and an orchestra was discoursing sweet music. Just next 
to this was one of the largest and finest hotels in the city, 
the Taj Mahal. I stayed here enjoying the air, which was 
a little cooler, until 10, and then went home and went to 
bed. 

I forgot to mention that all hauling was done on two- 
wheeled wagons, drawn by native buffalo cattle. The main 
streets are very wide, and the street car service is splendid, 
and there are plenty of autos and bicycles on the streets. 

JANUARY 21. After breakfast I started down the Es- 
planade Road to the Crawford Market. It was further 
than I thought. Must have been two miles. About half 
way I came upon a great square and two splendid build- 
ings, the Victoria station and the Supreme Court build- 
ing. The station proper is built of small cement blocks 
and has a number of galleries as well as a few small 
towers and a large one ; besides this there is a great train- 
shed. I went in the station and observed the crowd for 
sometime. 

This country approaches nearer to America in its great 
extent than any I have traveled over. It is almost a 
thousand miles to Delhi, the first place I intend to go to. The 
railway engines are the English style, but most of the cars 
have doors at the end and some of their special expresses 
are vestibuled throughout. 

The Supreme Court building looks almost like the sta- 
tion, is very large, has a great tower and part way up is 
a golden figure of Justice. A little farther along in tree 
besprinkled grounds are a number of buildings — a school 
for boys, high school, library and art school. Just be- 
yond this is the market. This comprises a great building 
for fruit, vegetables, groceries, pastry, etc., then a great 
number of outer sheds. In the center of the enclosure 
is a fountain surrounded by palm trees. Outside of the 
regular produce found in the market there were thous- 
ands of birds and a great number of dogs, monkeys and 



302 BOMBAY 

parrots. Near the sidewalk were small shops. I wanted 
some handkerchiefs and picked out a common looking one 
that would sell for a nickel in Detroit and they asked 
twenty-five cents for this. 

I then took a long walk down one narrow street and 
back another. This was in the native quarter and the 
buildings and shops were mostly built of wood. On either 
side of both side streets were small stores, mostly of the 
notion order. There were no sidewalks and the streets 
are literally packed with people and vehicles. In this 
walk of three miles I did not see a single white person. I 
obtained something to eat. As I was passing along on my 
way back to the market I made a thorough inspection of 
the whole place and when I left I made a purchase of 
some fruit. I then went back to the station, then on to the 
art school. 

On the shady side of the building a number of pupils 
were painting from a living model. I watched this for a 
time. Near by were a number of small, barefoot boys play- 
ing foot ball. A little farther on was a kind of extended 
arch containing seats and as the sun was in such a position 
as to shine on both sides of the street, and it was fear- 
fully hot, I sat here more than two hours reading and 
taking notice of the procession of people and vehicles. 

At 2 I made another start and with the protection of my 
umbrella managed to get to the other station without a 
sunstroke. After looking around awhile I located a foun- 
tain, and although the water was warm, I nearly foundered 
myself drinking — I was that thirsty. I then sat down in a 
place where there was a draft and watched the crowd 
until 4, going on to lodgings where I read until 7, after- 
wards going to the water front, having supper on the way. 
Finding a seat I listened to the music and watched the 
promenaders. These were mostly Europeans. I then 
took a walk along the front admiring the great buildings 
of the wealthy. Continuing on I came to some vacant 
blocks covered with thousands of bales of cotton. I wan- 
dered around until 9, when I went home and to bed. 

Most of the streets are not lighted as they should be 
after dark. Only gas jets are used. 



BOMBAY 303 

JANUARY 22. At 6 the captain came in and awakened 
three sailors who w T ere sleeping in the same room. All the 
horrible language I had to listen to ! They were cer- 
tainly experts at the job. 

At 7 I arose and after a wash walked down to the park 
by the university. The weather was now right, if only the 
sun would not rise any higher. This part was filled with 
crows which kept up a continual noise. While I was here 
a black nurse, or ayah, passed with a little boy about four 
years old. She took a seat further along and proceeded to 
fill and light a huge clay pipe and enjoy a smoke. At this 
time, hearing a band toward the seaside, I investigated 
and was in time to see a company of soldiers passing by. 

In front of the university is a fine driveway, and on the 
other side of this a golf course about twenty rods wide. 
There is a row of palms on either side, beyond the golf 
links is another road and then a double track railway, en- 
closed by a low wall. Between that and the breakwater 
is a track covered with hay. This track is used by the 
horsemen. Most people get up early in this place in order 
to take advantage of the coolness of the morning. I no- 
ticed^ number of golf enthusiasts as I crossed the ground. 
I followed the track away from the city until I came to a 
gate which I went through. At this point there was quite 
a large tennis ground. I went down to the beach and 
walked along towards the city about a half a mile to an- 
other gate. All along were people and several horsemen 
exercising. On arriving at the gate I sat down on a stone 
forming part of the breakwater and watched the crowd. 
"While I was there a continuous procession of well-dressed 
Indians came down and all went through the same cere- 
mony. They would go down to the water, wash their 
hands and dry them on a handkerchief. They would then 
take a piece of tape about six feet long and wind it 
around the waist, tie it and then go through a number of 
bowings and scrapings, first facing the east and then the 
west. As I was about to leave here a sergeant accom- 
panied by several natives, with a couple of yoke of oxen 
attached to what looked much like a gun carriage, came 
down. They had a hard time getting the oxen to go down 



304 BOMBAY 

the hill. They drove as close to the water as possible and 
then unhitched the oxen and led and drove them into the 
sea, where they were given a bath. In the meantime, 
a couple of others threw water on the cart wheels. 

I left here and went to the suburban station and made 
inquiries about the trains. As the third class rate was very 
light I determined to visit several cities not included in my 
first itinerary. Just outside the station was a grand 
building which I first took for a mosque but which turned 
out to be the headquarters of the railway company. It 
was of tremendous size with several wings, built of small 
blocks of dark green stone with white trimmings. There 
were white mosque-like domes situated on the different 
corners, and then in the very center was a great tower with 
a steeple at the top. I sat down in the small park here 
and observed the crowd. A continual stream of autos was 
passing along on a fine speedway. Every few minutes 
trains were coming and going and letting off crowds of 
passengers. 

While I think of it I must describe the dress of the po- 
licemen and trainmen. The policemen wear a queer tur- 
ban-like cap, blue cotton blouse and knee trousers; are 
bare-legged and have sandals on the feet. The train con- 
ductors wear a tight-fitting khaki uniform, shoes and a 
small cap. The motormen seem to dress as they please 
and are all barefooted. I noticed a number of grey -bearded 
patriarchs among them. Not far from where I was sitting 
an. old man had a candy stand. I patronized him to the 
extent of an anna, two cents. All his leisure time, while 
I was there, he put in reciting aloud from the Koran. At 
1 I went to the park by the university, bought some food 
at a stand, sat down on the grass while I ate it, stayed 
there watching the crowd until 2, when I walked down 
toward the station. On reaching the station I struck off 
into a native street, which I continued along for quite a 
distance. Ooing back I went into a reading room across 
from the station and stayed there reading and noting the 
crowd until 5. There was both English and Indian read- 
ing matter. The place was crowded and I was the only 
Caucasian there. I then went up as far as the park where 



BOMBAY 305 

I had supper, then to the army hotel. I said good-by to 
the captain and walked to the Colaba station. There I 
watched the crowd until 8, when I bought a ticket and got 
on the train. The third class cars are like the English — 
doors all along the side. I was lucky enough to get into a 
small compartment in which there was just one lone In- 
dian, who could speak a little English and who kept 
others from coming in by saying "European." The win- 
dows were boarded up — no glass. This was all right as it 
was not necessary to see out at night and it kept the cold 
out and in the daytime the travelers need all the air they 
can get. 

At 9 the train started and shortly I fixed myself to sleep. 
As the Indian had a whole bundle of bed clothes he handed 
me a light blanket. This I put down on the seat, used 
my coat for a pillow, my overcoat for a cover and I had a 
comfortable bed. 

JANUAEY 23. As we made only a few stops I slept 
very well. At 6 the train pulled into a place called God- 
hia. As it was quite light I was prepared to see what the 
country looked like and I kept my eyes glued to the land- 
scape for four hundred miles, until it got too dark to see. 
From Grodhia to Rutlan, 116 miles, we only stopped once 
and that at Dohes, a small place. The whole distance the 
country was roughly covered for the most part with scrub 
and jungle and only here and there was a small patch un- 
der cultivation. When I saw such a poor country I could 
not help wondering where the 300,000,000 population were. 

Rutlan was a fair sized place and from there on the 
country was better, more land being under cultivation. 
"We passed one especially fine stretch of about twenty-five 
miles. This very much resembled North Dakota prairies, 
only the fields were smaller. "Whelft, oats, barley and flax 
were planted. There were no houses along the way, most 
of the people living in villages. These were generally built 
on a hill and were very poor affairs. The houses for the 
most part were built of mud with thatched roofs and many 
were so low that a person would not be able to stand up- 
right inside. 



306 DELHI 

None of the smaller children were clothed and the par- 
ents very lightly. In all these four hundred miles I saw 
only four horses and five camels, but there were plenty of 
cattle and goats, even in those parts that seemed to be 
absolutely devoid of any kind of vegetation. 

JANUARY 24. We made the long trip from Bombay 
to Delhi in 29 hours, arriving at Delhi at 2 o 'clock Friday 
morning. My Indian fellow passenger stayed on until 
Thursday at 2 p. m. After that three sets of people got in 
but the place was never crowded. I obtained eatables 
from peddlers. These came on the platform at all stations 
loaded with baskets of provisions of every kind. I had a 
sample of a dozen different kinds of confections and found 
them very good. 

I shall have to describe one of my sets of companions. 
These consisted of three soldiers, two young fellows and a 
man about 45. The latter was heavily built and wore a 
great black beard, on his head a turban, and besides a 
khaki jacket, white linen knee trousers and sandals and 
carried a sabre. 

On arriving at Delhi and not caring to hunt a hotel, I 
went into the waiting room and played a game of freeze- 
out till 7 and then went out and blundered around for a 
time and came upon the main business street of the city. 
As I walked along this, unlike in Bombay, for the first 
time I felt like a stranger in a strange land. 

The buildings were of every imaginable kind, form and 
size, and in all stages of dilapidation. The streets were 
fairly wide with a car track on either side and a raised 
walk down the center. I continued along until I came to 
the entrance of a fine large park, called the Queen's Gar- 
dens. Inside the gate was a fine red stone building, the 
Town Hall. In front was a splendid sitting statue of the 
Queen. Just a few yards from here is where the bomb was 
thrown that blew up the Viceroy's carriage. I bought 
some food at a stand near here and went into the park and 
ate it and then spent more than an hour trying to find St. 
Stephen's College, having been given the name of the 
principal by a friend I met in Port Said. 



DELHI 307 

While wandering around I came to one of the old gates 
and went out into the suburbs. On coming back I went 
along this wall for some distance. There is a very little 
now standing, it having been broken during the mutiny. 

I finally located the college but the gentleman I was 
looking for was not there. This college is a fine large 
building in spacious grounds. Just opposite, surrounded 
by a fine stone fence and in the midst of a small park, is 
a church. This was built of stone, painted white and 
blue. On three sides were portico entrances upheld by 
fine columns. In the center was a massive dome and on 
top of this a ball and cross. The interior walls were cov- 
ered with tablets to the memory of those who were killed 
during the mutiny. Outside to the right of the entrance 
were the ball and cross that were on there at the time of 
the mutiny. They are almost one mass of holes. 

After going through the church I spent the time until 
1 :30 writing out my diary and enjoying the peace of the 
little park in which the church is situated. After this I 
went out and inquired the way to the fort and great 
mosque and after a short walk came to the fort. The lat- 
ter is enclosed by massive walls of redstone and is sur- 
rounded by a moat. The main battlement looks like a 
mosque, having a number of domes and minarets. On the 
other side of the fort were the gardens and the palace and 
mosque of the ancient rulers. The entrance was through 
a small building. In front was a great portico upheld by 
a number of huge pillars. In the very center was a kind 
of throne done in inlaid work. Going from this I came 
into a beautiful garden covered with a number of very old 
trees. In the center was a fine fountain of marble ; at the 
far side was a great pavilion, there being four rows of 
splendid masses of marble running lengthways supporting 
arches in every direction. 

All down the center was a shallow trench, six feet wide. 
At one end was an open space and the walls of this were 
decorated with blue figures of gods. Beyond this was an- 
other pavilion which was a magnificent dream. This was 
50 by 100 feet by 25 feet high, built entirely of white mar- 
ble. The roof was supported by arches upheld by thirty- 



308 DELHI 

four great square columns. The entire inner part ceiling 
and all was covered with gold decorations. On either cor- 
ner was a small dome. At one corner was a grand mosque 
built of redstone. It is entirely covered with morning- 
glory vines. On top were seventeen slender domes and 
three large ones, all topped with slender gold work. On 
finishing here I went on to the great Juma Mas j aid mosque 
built in 1658 which took fourteen years to build and all 
this time at least 5,000 men were employed. This mosque 
is one of the finest in the world. The outer part is 800 by 
400 feet and there are three great entrances. Thirty-five 
steps about one hundred feet long lead up to each. All the 
outer part, except the rear end and the small entrance, is 
open work. A double set of pillars support the arches. 

The three entrances are higher and look like battle- 
ments. On top of each are twenty-one small domes. Al- 
most all the enclosed space had openings that were cov- 
ered with large flags. Europeans are allowed to enter by 
the front entrance and climb to the top where in a balcony 
the whole interior can be seen. I made this trip and when 
I gained the balcony I looked down on a lively scene. 
Thousands of men, women and children were going and 
coming and performing their devotions on the flags below. 
In the center was a large receptacle filled with water. At 
the rear the whole end was filled up with a small chapel. 
On top were four gigantic white domes besides two tall 
towers with two small domes at the corners. 

I got something to eat at a stand close by before going 
in, and I stayed here about an hour. Before I left one of 
the priests mounted the pulpit by a ladder and started to 
read from the Koran. On coming down I handed the 
guide a two-anna piece and was told it cost one rupee 
(thirty-three cents). After this I went down the main 
native street, passed a fine church, quite a nice building, 
bought some cards at a stand and went to the Queen's 
Park Gardens. 

In a great open space at one corner a number of cricket 
games were going on. These being well worth looking at, 
I sat down and wrote a few cards and watched the games. 
Charidni Chawk is the name of the main street, where the 



DELHI 309 

bomb outrage took place. When the cricket games were 
finished, I went to the station and found out about a train 
and then to a reading room near by and read several small 
papers published by Mohammedans. In one of these I 
noticed the following advertisement: "A Mohammedan 
B. A., LL. B., drawing a handsome salary, desirous of 
marrying a girl, wishes to correspond with her guardian 
with a view to matrimony, the girl to be : First, of re- 
spectable family from both sides, paternal and maternal; 
second, handsome; third, healthy; and fourth, from four- 
teen to twenty-two years old. Communications strictly 
confidential. ' ' 

At 7 I had supper. After this I strolled the length of 
the main street. It was a sight I will not soon forget. 
There must have been thousands of small bazaars, lit up 
in every kind of manner. They used everything from a 
kind of tallow dip to electric lights. The streets are not 
lighted at all. I saw a number of people carrying lan- 
terns. I shall not soon forget the wonderful display of 
color that the streets presented. 

I then followed the street car track around till I came 
to the station. It was only 8, but I wanted to get my 
ticket so that I could get through the gate to the waiting 
room. On my asking at the window for a third class ticket 
for Lucknow I was told I would have to go around to the 
end of the building. On going there I saw a tremendous 
crowd fighting and pushing to get to the window and as I 
had plenty of time I concluded to wait. At 9 the crowd 
had thinned out, and I was able to purchase a ticket, and 
at 9 :45 I got to the train. I was not so fortunate as to 
get a small compartment but had to take a seat in the 
main part of the car and it looked as if I would have my 
old experience in the freezing line. The car not only had 
no windows, but the whole upper part was lighted by 
shutters. These would be all right in the day time when 
it was hot, but a poor thing at night. At 10 we started. 
It was cold right from the beginning to the end. I would 
have frozen to death before morning, but luckily at 12 we 
changed cars and these were heated. 



310 LUCKNOW 

JANUARY 25. On the next train, I found a better 
grade of cars. These had windows and were not full of 
airholes. There was just room for me to crowd in and that 
was all. It was a mighty good thing I got into this car, as 
even at that I came near freezing. I could not help think- 
ing of my peculiar position, being the only white person 
among this bunch of Indians. I have got used to people 
staring at me, or the many pairs of eyes that were focused 
all the time, would have been embarrassing. All things 
must end and so with this trip. 

We arrived at 9. After spending a little time trying 
to figure out the time of the trains, I left the station. Just 
outside I found a stand and obtained something to eat, and 
then started for the main part of the city. The station 
must have been a couple of miles away from the main part 
of the town. I was greatly disappointed in the place, hav- 
ing an idea for some reason that it was a city of 400,000, 
but it appears like a great town. It has not even a street 
car. I wanted to locate an address given me by a man in 
Cairo. I kept going through the squalid native part until 
I finally ran upon a Church Mission High School. This 
was a fine building. I thought I would find some one here 
who could give me information, but they were all busy. 
Just beyond this I came upon a Methodist church. I saw 
a young fellow here, who directed me to my address, and 
I found out that I had more than twx> miles to go. I trav- 
eled along what appeared like a country road, first passing 
a number of villas, schools, etc., next a Hindoo Methodist 
Church. This was a good-sized building. I then came 
upon two fine hotels, " Civil and Military" and "Im- 
perial." The first was built of red brick with white stone 
trimming and the other was of cement blocks, painted 
white, yellow and green. Both were long, low, rambling 
buildings, having porches, upheld by pillars, running all 
the way around. Just beyond these was a beautiful small 
mosque. It was only about thirty feet square, enclosed by 
a stone fence, three arched openings on top and three 
great domes, besides four slender ones at the other corner 
and a number of still smaller ones around the coping. The 
outside was covered with carving and mosaic work. 



, LUCKNOW 311 

The sun was getting pretty hot and a little farther along 
I isat down in the shade and did some writing. It was 1 
o'clock before I finally located the place I was looking 
for. The doors were all open and the room in the center 
looked very inviting, this containing a couple of tables 
covered with magazines. On knocking a couple of times, 
without any response, I walked in and made myself at 
home, reading until 2, before the head of the house ap- 
peared. After a few minutes' conversation I started back 
to town. It was just fine at this time and a gentle breeze 
tempered the heat. On coming back to the hotels I sat 
down opposite one and rested while I watched the passers- 
by. While sitting here a large elephant carrying seven 
persons passed. After this I turned off another road and 
shortly found myself in the aristocratic part of the town. 
I passed innumerable fine residences and palatial hotels, and 
then came upon an avenue lined with great stores, offices 
and buildings. Continuing along this I passed two splen- 
did churches, one a Catholic and the other an English, 
then more beautiful residences. Coming to a little park, I 
sat down and watched the people for awhile. A little far- 
ther on, in a great grass covered field, above on elevations, 
were two mosques. These were built of the same material 
and of the same shape, but one was about twice the size 
of the other, in each case being a square, the center part 
surmounted by a great dome and a smaller one on each 
corner and four outside wings with small domes at the 
corners. On the other side, in the center of a beautiful 
grass plot, was a monument to Queen Victoria. The foun- 
dation was of cement blocks, eight feet wide, with steps 
leading up from every side. A low fence of marble ran 
around it with a small dome on the corners, then in the 
center on the marble platform, four feet high on a low 
pedestal, was a sitting statue of the Queen. This was cov- 
ered by a canopy, upheld by four pillars ; on top one great 
dome and four smaller ones, all of marble. Just beyond 
this park was another mosque. This was built of cement 
blocks, painted yellow with white ornamental trimmings. 
It must have had twenty wings in all and was approximate- 
ly 500 by 200 feet. 



312 LUCKNOW 

In the center were two massive towers and three great 
domes. At either end were a number of smaller mosques of 
the same description, only this had one great dome. All 
around were beautiful parks and grounds. 

After this, as it was getting late, I tried to find my way 
to the station. This was not an easy job as I had gone 
around and around and there were no street car tracks to 
guide me, but I at last made out, getting there just at dark. 
I had supper at a stand, then went into the station. As 
my train would not leave until 10 I had a long wait ahead 
of me. 

I forgot to say anything about the country I passed 
through after daylight this morning. This was mostly 
flat and most of the land was under cultivation. In some 
places small patches were being irrigated. This was an 
interesting proceeding. The water was hauled out of cis- 
terns in a great leathern skin by oxen or man power. In 
some places I saw men, women and children all hauling on 
the rope at once. 

I wandered up and down the platform passing away the 
time until 10, when I boarded the train. There was an 
apartment supposed to hold twenty-two, and I had this all 
to myself. I cleaned my pockets of books, etc., piled these 
down, spread my handkerchief over them for a pillow, 
spread my coat down for a mattress and used my overcoat 
for covering and kept fairly warm. 

JANUARY 26. Slept fairly well and awakened at 7. 
At 8 :30 we arrived at Moghul Sarai where I had to wait 
until 11. We made a couple of stops after I got up. The 
last, Kasho, seemed to be quite a city. At this place the 
train crossed the Ganges, which must have been one-half 
mile wide at this point. What little country I saw was 
mostly under cultivation. On leaving the station I bought 
something to eat and then wandered around a little. There 
was only one street, which contained probably one hundred 
different small stands, etc. I went back of this through a 
couple of courts and examined a few of the hovels where the 
people lived. I could see no furniture of any kind in any of 
them. Going back I went up a little further where a large 



MOGIIDL SARAI 313 

brick building was in course of construction. There were 
four masons at work and boys not more than twelve were 
carrying mortar and girls about fourteen the bricks. All 
were barefoot and the girls had on fine leg anklets and sev- 
eral armlets and wristlets. Their dress consisted of one 
piece of thin red cotton draped around them. One De- 
troit bricklayer could lay more bricks than the four I 
saw working while I was there. A great pipe was filled 
and each in turn took a few whiffs. Going to the other end 
of the place I saw them making mortar which was nothing 
more than mud. The entire bunch of girls were carrying 
bricks in baskets to fill in between the foundation. 

I then came around to the street and watched the busy 
scene. Among many other things was a goat with a couple 
of small kids, and there were a number of naked babies 
playing in the dust. I bought some fruit at one of the 
stands — a kind of plum and a pomegranate. After eating 
these I wandered up and down the station platform until 
my train came in at 12. 

I obtained a whole compartment to myself. For some 
distance the land was mostly planted to grain, but after 
that was diversified and in small patches. Then I began 
to see where the many millions of Indians lived as it ap- 
peared like one continual village. The compartment I 
w T as in had seats along one side and a double seat along 
the center. I sat in one of the center seats with my feet 
upon one of the side seats and took comfort while I viewed 
the landscape. All the small patches were irrigated by 
means of cisterns and a long bamboo pole was balanced on 
a limb of a tree and a rope tied to one end. 

The best houses of the Indians were made with tile roof. 
The homes deteriorated to small coverings of palm leaves 
just big enough to crawl into. About one-half of the land 
was taken up with orchards of some kind. There was fruit 
on the trees, but I could not make out what it was. In 
a great many cases it was red colored and great quantities 
were piled under the trees. At one stop I was going to 
curl up on the shelf and make myself as cosy as possible 
for the night, when a porter came and told me they were 
going to cut off a car and I would have to go up ahead. 



314 CALCUTTA 

I went up and down a few minutes, when one of the guards 
asked me what class I belonged to, and on my telling him, 
he consulted another guard and they said they would have 
to put me in an European compartment of a class higher, 
to which I had no objections as I had a good cushioned 
upper berth for the night, but I cannot help thinking of 
the different way in which the poor Indians were treated. 
They were piled in like cattle and I had to pay no more 
for the ticket than they did, and I heard afterwards that 
even if I paid less fare, the company had to reserve sepa- 
rate accommodation for me. After making the change I 
bought some fruit which was wrapped in leaves. I no- 
ticed this kind of wrapping paper in Delhi. Large leaves 
are pinned together with twigs. Being warm and cozy I 
slept most of the night. A couple of Englishmen were 
my companions most of the time, one a theatrical agent 
and the other a railroader. 

JANUARY 27. Was routed out at 5 as we were nearing 
our destination and at 5 :30 we pulled into the station at 
Howrah. This is across the Ganges river from Calcutta. 

On alighting from the train I gathered information in 
regard to trains to other points, and noted the crowd until 
7 when I started to find myself. I crossed the bridge 
over the Ganges river, which was right by the station. 
It seems for some reason they had been unable to build an 
ordinary bridge on account of the swiftness of the current. 
This bridge was built on pontoons and was about half a 
mile wide at this point. Lining the river on either side 
were docks. 

Calcutta is not, like most people think, situated on the 
sea, but is about eighty miles up the River Ganges. Such 
is the depth of this stream that the great ocean-going 
vessels come up here. On crossing the bridge I kept along 
a street called Harrison for a couple of miles until I came 
to a branch of the Y. M. C. A. Along the whole distance 
the street was lined with bazaars and shops. 

I had breakfast at one of these places. At the Y. I was 
directed to the Salvation Army hotel. Had to take a car 
along two fairly decent roads until I alighted at the cor- 



CALCUTTA 315 

ner of Esplanade and Changhree roads, the latter being the 
finest street in the city. Here are located most of the great 
hotels, stores and office buildings. The buildings were on 
one side of the street, a great park on the other. A few 
minutes' walk brought me to the main Y. I went up to 
the reading room awhile and then located the Salvation 
Army hotel, which was only a couple of blocks away, 
on a side street. On getting there I had to wait awhile 
for the captain, but when he came I made arrangements 
for lodgings. I then went back to the main street until I 
came to a great department store, Whiteaway & Laid- 
law's, and went in and inspected it. This is the largest 
place of its kind in the city and will compare favorably 
with American department stores. 

After this I went down to the main corner as I thought 
I had passed Cook's office, but it turned out to be some- 
thing else. I then went over to the corner of the park 
and rubbered at the different scenes. This corner is called 
Dhurmuntollah. Across at the opposite corner from where 
I was sitting was a fair-sized mosque built of cement blocks, 
painted yellow. Down the center were two rows of great 
domes, ten in all. Around the sides were ten slender 
towers and at each corner larger ones. After sitting here 
awhile I had dinner at a stand, then not feeling much like 
sightseeing, as I had been five nights on the train, I went 
to the Y. and stayed there feasting on reading matter until 
7. Then I went out and had supper and wandered around 
different bazaars until 9. I never get tired looking at the 
goods, people and costumes. I noticed a great number 
of men going bareheaded. These all appeared to be bright, 
intelligent-looking people and most of them well dressed, 
although wearing the native costume. 

On going to my lodging I got into conversation with the 
captain and another gentleman, and it was 10 before I got 
to bed. 

JANUAEY 28. Rose at 8 after a poor night as I did 
not have covering enough and was cold. After a bath, 
which I sorely needed, I went down the street, bought some 
food in a small market, and went across to the park where 



316 CALCUTTA 

I sat down and made my breakfast, afterwards . stopping 
awhile and watching the passing throng. I then took a 
car for the dock and passed some splendid buildings and 
parks, which I shall have to investigate later on. 

After waiting some time I went aboard a small steamer 
which after a half hour's run landed us at College Ghat, 
right opposite the British College. Although this river is 
called Hoogly in reality it is one of the main mouths of 
the Ganges. The stream was almost choked with boats of 
every kind. On landing I walked up to some lumber piles, 
sat down and did some writing. I then went on to the 
great sight of this place — the big Banyan tree. This has 
nearly six hundred roots, large and small, reaching down 
from limbs, and has extended until it now covers a space 
of more than fifteen hundred feet in circumference. This 
is the most wonderful sight in the shape of a tree I have 
ever seen. I sat down under it and wrote some cards. I 
then wandered around until a little after 3, when I found 
myself at the exit of the park. I was almost stricken dumb 
by the luxurious growth of the great trees, the grand flower 
beds, small lakes, etc. I just caught a boat going back to 
the city and it was 4 when I landed. "When I reached the 
wharf immediately in front I came up to the Grand Coun- 
cil building. This was two stories high, 500 by 200 feet, 
built of cement blocks and white marble, all white. There 
were innumerable wings and a great number of huge 
columns supported the portico. A little farther along 
was the Imperial Library, another fine building. This was 
built entirely of cement and painted white. Thirty great 
columns supported the portico. The next was the mag- 
nificent postoffice. On a building alongside was a tablet 
bearing the following inscription : ' ' The marble pavement 
below this spot was placed here by Lord Curzon in 1901 
to mark the site of the prison in old Fort "William, known 
as the Black Hole, in which 146 British were confined 
on the night of the 20th of June, 1756, and from which 
only 26 were taken alive." This was fourteen feet ten 
inches by 18 feet. The postoffice was built of sandstone 
and marble painted white. It had two floors and was 
about 400 by 200 feet. The roof of the portico was 



CALCUTTA 317 

upheld by twenty great columns, as well as two great 
squares. On the top of the main part was a great dome. 
On one side of the street was a fine monument in honor 
of those who perished in the Black Hole. In front of the 
postoffice was a great square, about two-thirds of which 
was taken up by an artificial lake. Steps led down from 
all sides. All around the square were grand buildings. 
I obtained some stamps in the postoffice and sent away a 
few cards. 

I must not forget to describe a fine old church at one 
corner of this square. It was built of stone, was not large 
and had a stone steeple and portico, but the entrance was 
upheld by four great pillars, all white. The square is called 
Dalhousie. Continuing along one side of the extension of 
this square is known as Government Place. Buildings 
line this place and on the west side a little farther along 
are the grounds of the Palace Government building. This 
is a great park and extends along for half a mile, and 
then there is another great park that lies across from 
the main street. I do not know how far this extends. I 
went to the market and had supper, then to the large 
park. As in Bombay this was full of crows. They are 
as plentiful as sparrows in America. After eating I went 
to the Y. and read papers until 9. There are a number 
of papers published here, and it seems queer to see half- 
naked boys peddling these night and morning. At 9 
o'clock I went to bed. 

JANUARY 29. On getting up I went to the market 
and bought some fine raisins, shelled walnuts and small 
cakes and went to my seat in the park where I made a 
sumptuous breakfast. 

"While I was there a great drove of cows passed by. 
They were all very poor and scrubby looking. After this 
I took a long walk on the main street, the park being on 
one side, and splendid buildings of all kinds on the other. 

I at last came to St. Paul's Cathedral. This was 
situated in the park. It was quite large and built of red 
sandstone, and at the rear was crowned by a high steeple. 
On gaining the interior it was easy to see that this was 



318 CALCUTTA 

a rich man's church, as the seats were all large cane-bot- 
tomed chairs. 

There were several fine stained glass windows. In the 
rear were a number of statues and tombs, and the walls 
were covered with tablets in honor of soldiers. 

A little way on I noticed eight men carrying a great 
box. Everything that is possible of carriage in this man- 
ner is carried by men. 

It is wonderful to see how these people can balance 
anything. As it was now getting hot I went back to 
the Y. where I wrote until 1. Afterwards went to the 
market where I had dinner at a stall, and then went to 
the Indian Museum. This was a very large building about 
200 feet square, enclosing a small court. Most of the 
main floor was given over to a collection of stones, min- 
erals and bones and relics of different animals. One wing 
called the Victoria Memorial was splendid. It was filled 
with hundreds of paintings and engravings, portraits and 
scenes of India. One gigantic painting thirty feet square 
represented a scene in the visit of the Prince of Wales to 
India in 1876. Another almost as large represented the 
Durbar of 1903. 

A couple of other rooms were filled with statues and 
relics of Buddha. On the second floor, besides a very 
good collection of stuffed birds and animals pertaining to 
India, there was a splendid display of agriculture and 
manufactured products. 

There was an attendant at each door and on passing 
these each would give a military salute. This was only 
for the whites. On finishing I took a seat in the lobby 
and did some writing. I then went to the Y. and wrote 
until 6. After supper I went back and read until 9, 
when I went to bed. 

JANUAEY 30. On getting up went to the market as 
usual, procured some food and went to my seat in the 
park, where I had breakfast, I then took a walk, passed the 
Thorburn Church, but could not summon courage enough 
to go in. Continued along on one of the native streets 
for a considerable distance, then going back to the church 
I went in and called on the minister. 



CALCUTTA 319 

After a few minutes' talk he sent me a couple of blocks 
farther on to a Mr. Lee, who with his wife runs a large 
mission known as the Lee Memorial Mission. It is called 
this in memory of six of their children who were lost in 
a flood some fifteen years ago. 

Here I met a grand old gentleman, who made me 
feel right at home, and the breakfast gong ringing a few 
minutes afterwards, he insisted on my going to the table. 

Besides his wife there were four other ladies from 
America- — one from Michigan. After breakfast Mr. Lee 
and I had quite a conversation, and as I spoke of being 
engaged in writing a letter he took me up to the roof and 
after showing me some of the main points of the city 
insisted on my going into a room and finishing the letter. 

I was not through when I was called down to lunch. 
On each occasion we were waited on by a barefooted man 
servant. After this I went back and finished my letter 
and then addressed and stamped some packages given' 
me by Mr. Lee. 

I then went down and had another talk with him, and 
afterwards went to the Y. where I read until 6. After 
supper I went back to the Y. and stayed there reading 
until 9, when I went home to bed. 

JANUARY 31. The excitement of meeting and con- 
versing with my missionary friends kept me awake most 
of the night. On rising I went to the market and pro- 
cured some fruit which I had for breakfast. Afterwards 
stood for some time watching the operation of shoeing a 
couple of oxen. A light shoe is nailed to one side of each 
foot. 

I then walked about half a mile down through a great 
park to one of the gates of Fort "William, and spent an 
hour or so going around inside. It was almost like a city. 
Inspected the English Church, which is a fair sized build- 
ing, and, like all the other churches I have entered here, 
it had its walls covered with tablets in memory of soldiers. 

I passed out at what is known as Water gate. Look- 
ing toward the river and a short distance beyond was a 
fine boulevard. At this point on a fine mounted pedestal 



320 CALCUTTA 

was a monument (equestrian) of Lord Napier, and near 
this was a white pavilion. The roof was supported by 
four rows, thirty-four great columns. I sat down on the 
shady side and then for a while watched the life on the 
river. I then went along a driveway until I came to Eden 
Gardens, at one corner of the great park. At a bandstand 
here a band was discoursing sweet music, and I stayed 
until they finished, afterwards going to the Y. where I 
read until 12:30, when I went home and " dolled up" a 
little. Then went down through the market to a branch 
postoffice and got some stamps, then on to the Bast Bengal 
office where I obtained information in regard to trains, 
and from there went to Mr. Lee's, where I just had time 
to say " hello" to him when the luncheon bell rang. 

There were the same number at the table as yesterday 
and we sat there about an hour and conversed. Going 
down to Mr. Lee's office he and I talked, between inter- 
ruptions, until 4 when I walked down to Cook's office, 
and then down to the river and back by Eden Gardens 
where a dog show was in progress. 

I climbed up on the fence and watched this performance 
for some time, then crossing the park stopped to watch 
cricket and tennis games. I then went to the market 
and had supper, afterwards going to the Y. where I read 
until 9, when I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 1. On arising I went to the market as 
usual for breakfast, dividing a part of my food with two 
crows, which appeared to be very tame. 

I then took a stroll along Bentick street for nearly a 
mile. This street was almost entirely occupied by small 
boot and shoe stores run by Chinese. None of these wear 
a queue and they were dressed like Europeans. 

I stopped in front of a number of these places and 
watched them at work and then came back to the main 
corner of the park and waited for a ticket office to open. 

"While sitting here a moving van passed. This consisted 
of eighteen coolies, carrying, in ones and twos, different 
articles of furniture. 

At 9 I boarded a car for Kali Ghat, the old temple that 



CALCUTTA 321 

Calcutta is named for. This was a long ride through the 
main street. We soon passed the business blocks, then the 
street narrowed and all degrees of poverty-stricken shacks 
were passed. 

On alighting from the car I walked a half mile through 
another tortuous street to the temple, which comprised a 
number of poor, squalid mud-buildings. 

I had to take a guide here, and in a little over an hour 
saw enough horrible sights to last me the rest of my life. 
First, there were the principal gods — Creator, Preserver 
and Destroyer. There were also a number of others. The 
sight of any of these would give a person the nightmare. 
Besides these there was the horrible condition of some of 
the priests. 

I was shown a place where the goats and cattle were 
sacrificed. I had to smile at one place. In a room was 
a big old tree and every branch and limb was literally 
loaded with small pieces of stone and brick, tied to the 
limbs with human hair. These were all placed here by 
childless women. "When the guide told me of this he said : 
"You probably think this is a joke." That is when I 
smiled. 

The last sight was the bathing in the Ganges. At one 
time the river flowed by here, but has since changed its 
course, and now the old bed is filled by the tide each day. 

Just below the temple in the pool there must have been 
1,000 people in bathing. Any one can imagine the hor- 
rible condition of the water, especially when one remem- 
bers it is stagnant. 

Scattered along the way there must have been a hun- 
dred beggars in every condition of filth and disease and 
self-inflicted mutilation. I was glad to get away from this 
horrible scene. 

Boarding the car I went back toward the city. On 
passing the Y. I got off and read until noon. Although 
Mr. Lee wanted me to lunch every day I didn't care to go. 

After dinner I wrote up my diary. I then went back 
to the Y. and spent my time until supper reading, after- 
ward strolled along the main street and observed the 
passing throng until 9, when I went home and to bed. 

li 



322 CALCUTTA 

FEBRUARY 2. After breakfast I walked down through 
some of the native streets, timing myself to get to the Tho- 
burn Church at 8 for the service. This is a fine large church 
and will hold 1,500 people. Heard a very good sermon. 
After the service strolled slowly to the Y. where I read 
until 1, and after getting something to eat spent the time 
until 5 reading and writing. 

Then went out and had supper and strolled back to 
the church, the service beginning at 6. Unlike the morn- 
ing the church was now well filled. After the service 
was over I went back to the Y. and stayed until 9, then 
went to my lodging. 

On going there I found a service in progress and went 
in and took part. At 10 I went to bed. 

FEBRUARY 3. After breakfast I went to the Y. and 
finished a letter to Detroit. I then walked as far as the 
postoffice where I bought some stamps, then back to a 
ticket office where I procured a ticket for Madras, then 
to the corner of the park at the main street where I 
did some reading. After this I strolled slowly to Mr. 
Lee's, conversed with him a few minutes when we were 
called to luncheon, Mrs. Lee being the only one of the 
family there. It seems that they were in deep trouble at 
this time. One of the teachers who had been with them 
for several years had lost her mental balance and was 
giving them a lot of trouble, she being violent to-day. 

After luncheon I went down to the office and read until 
3, when Mr. Lee came down. He then told me something 
of his work. A native preacher came in while I was there. 
I promised to interest the Detroit people I knew in his 
mission. At 5 I said good-bye to Mrs. Lee. As Mr. Lee 
was going down town we walked together a short dis- 
tance and finally we had to say good-bye. 

I shall never forget this place. It has been an oasis 
in the desert. On parting with Mr. Lee I went to the 
market and then laid in a supply of provisions and 
then back to my lodgings. Had a short talk with the su- 
perintendent and then got together my baggage and took 
a car for the station. 



CALCUTTA 323 

At this point I will try to describe the great market 
here. In contradistinction to the one in Bombay this is 
in the European quarter and is a magnificent building of 
vast proportions. It must be one thousand feet in length 
and five hundred in width, and is modern in every par- 
ticular and very clean ; besides every variety of vegetable, 
fruit, meat, etc., there are groceries, milk, butter and then 
hundreds of stalls in the bazaar line. 

I reached the station with an hour to spare. Spent a 
few minutes writing, then was able to get on the train, 
in a small compartment containing one Eurasian. In a 
few minutes a great tall Englishman came along. I spent 
the time until the train pulled out watching the crowd. 
It started promptly at 8. 

I then conversed with my companions until 10 when 
I crawled up on one of the shelves and went to bed. This 
is a small compartment, having two seats along the sides 
and two in the center. They were each about six feet 
long and above each side seat is a rack the same length 
and width as the seats. It was in one of these racks that 
I composed myself for the night. 

FEBRUARY 4. Slept very well and at 6 came down 
from my perch and began to take an interest in the 
scenery. The train was then stopping at a place called 
Kundra Rod, 300 miles from Calcutta, and from there on 
until it got too dark to see I watched the ever changing 
scenery. The whole distance was a contrast to the coun- 
try seen on the way to the Delhi. For the most part it 
was flat and every available foot was under cultivation. 

"We crossed quite a number of streams and in some 
places there were fairly high hills. These appeared to 
have been set down by hand. Wells there were by the 
thousands, used for irrigating purposes. In some places, 
one, two and as high as three men helped lift the water. 
They did this by walking up and down on a long pole 
that acted as a fulcrum to elevate a great tub. The day 
was fearfully hot. From 9 until 4 it was just a case of 
grin and bear it. All along the people and different ani- 
mals were taking advantage of every bit of water. I 



324 BITRAJUNTA 

envied them as I sat up in the car and cooked. There 
were no large cities. Wattarn was the largest. At this 
place, although we did not change trains, we change from 
a Bengal and Nagpur to a Madras and Southern Mahattra. 
The engine hooked on the other end of the train and we 
went back a few miles. It was better this way, as we 
faced the engine, from now on. From this place, which 
is 550 miles from Calcutta and 500 from Madras, we 
seemed to be traveling through a beautiful valley with 
hills on either side, and I kept my eyes glued to the 
scene until too dark to see any longer. In the early morn- 
ing the Eurasian left and during the day I had several 
talks with the Englishman. 

There was no trouble to procure food, as at each stop 
there were a great number crying wares of every kind. 
At 7 in the evening a police officer came into our com- 
partment. I being tired out, I lay down and had a nap, 
using my overcoat for a pillow. At 10 I fixed up my bed 
and turned in. 

FEBRUARY 5. I slept fairly well as it was warm all 
night. Climbed out at 6 and then viewed the scenery 
once more. As I arose the train was stopping at a place 
called Bitrajunta and had 130 miles to go. This stretch 
seemed to be lower, there seemed to be plenty of water 
and quite a number of small lakes. Every foot of avail- 
able land was covered with growing grain or grass. In 
some cases people were busy cutting this grass, using a 
hand sickle for the purpose. At one place the grain was 
being threshed by driving oxen over it. I noticed a few 
donkeys and two mules at work. At intervals I conversed 
with the police officer. At the first stop we made after 
I got up I saw a couple of women passengers taking a 
shower bath at the hydrant, looking like drowned rats 
when they finished. They were in the next compartment 
to us, and after the train started they took off their gar- 
ments, wrung them out and then let them fly from the car 
window until they dried. In this part of India the coun- 
try people live in villages. The houses were mostly built 
of mud with thatched roofs. In some places these were 



MADRAS 325 

round and peaked thatched roofs came down almost to 
the ground, looking not unlike our own Indian wigwams. 
At all these villages swarms of children in all stages of 
nakedness and semi-nakedness were to be seen. At 10 
we pulled into the station just outside of Madras and here 
all had to get out and obtain a kind of passport. This 
necessitated visiting the health officer every day for seven 
days if one stays that long in the place. This is on account 
of Calcutta being a plague city. 

At 11 we arrived in Madras. I boarded the street car 
and rode a couple of miles to the head of the street called 
Broadway, and then walked a few blocks to the Salvation 
Army headquarters. Here I was directed to the Y. M. 
C. A. A young American was in charge and I was suc- 
cessful in obtaining lodging. All the way from the sta- 
tion the street was lined with bazaars and small shops. 
The Y. is a fine building. After dinner I went into the 
reading room and stayed until 4, it being too hot to venture 
out before this time. Just across from the Y. in grounds 
that contain about 100 acres are two magnificent institu- 
tions, the high law courts and a law college. The latter 
has a couple of wings. All together I think the building 
must be 200 feet square and is built of red brick. There 
are three floors. The galleries are closed with the ex- 
ception of arched windowlike openings. On top are two 
great towers almost like domes. The high court is such 
a huge affair that it is hard to describe. There is one 
great main building and six wings built like the college 
and on top there must be one hundred mosque domes, 
large and small. The grounds are covered with fine trees 
and flowers, a part being used for cricket and tennis. 
Across the street from the end of the last building is a 
Christian church and college, a fine collection of build- 
ings with a frontage of 800 feet. These are built of 
cement painted red and yellow. 

Across from the college on the back street is St. Giles 
Catholic church. Beside this is a high school and convent. 
The church, a low structure, was built in 1642, of brick 
and rough cast. 

A low tower stands out from the building. Then 



326 MADRAS 

around the walls are a number of memorial tablets. There 
are two small altars, one of the Immaculate Conception, 
and the main altar, over which hangs a fine painting of 
the crucifixion. 

On either side are fine stained glass windows. Ad- 
joining this in the courtyard is the Armenian church, 
built in 1772. This is a small, round, rough cast building 
with a large dome. It was not open. 

After this I went back past the Y. to another street 
leading to the station. On the right was a great bazaar, 
and on the left the sports ground. 

At one place under some trees were a number of men 
and women making all kinds of baskets out of split bam- 
boo. I watched them awhile, then went on the grounds 
where a couple of Brahmins were playing tennis. These 
were splendid players and it was a treat watching them. 

I noticed a number of people here whose heads were 
shaved, and also noticed a number who have a figure 
something like a horseshoe painted on their foreheads. 

After leaving here I went down the street, and then 
down a side street for a considerable distance, then back 
on the next street. On both these streets all the buildings, 
although only one story high, seemed fairly decent for a 
native quarter. 

Most of the houses have a kind of gallery in front and 
in many cases a cow or two were stabled here. Getting 
back to the car track and going along a little further I 
came to the great Buddha Temple. 

Nearly a whole block was surrounded by a wall. Images 
of cows and Buddha are all around, and from the outside 
I could see two great pagoda towers covered with figures 
of Buddha. I watched the people going in and out for 
a time and then went back to the Y., buying some food 
and eating it on the way. 

What little I have seen of this place it appears more 
like a big town than a great city of 500,000 population. 
There are very few autos. The few carriages are hauled 
by men. 

On going back to the Y. they were just closing up the 
reading room so I went into the billiard room and wrote, 
conversed and watched the game. 



MADRAS 327 

I then went to my room and did some laundry work. 
As I mentioned before, everyone carries his bed in this 
country, but I fared all right as I had a cot on which was 
a mattress and a light blanket. I conversed for a short 
time with a young fellow from Colombo who had been 
occupying this room, but was making a change, and I 
obtained some information in regard to that place. At 
10 o'clock I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 6. I arose at 6 and had breakfast, for 
the first time since reaching India, in a native stall; got a 
cup of tea and a couple of buns. I then went down 
Broadway to the health office to report. After this I 
came back to the Y., then started out along the avenue 
known as Beach Band road. This is like a country road, 
having trees on either side. I passed a field where a great 
crowd of soldiers were camping. There must have been 
a hundred big tents. I turned off this road on about 
200 yards and • I came to the Wallah Jah gate to St. 
George Fort. There is a wall, a moat and a drawbridge. 
I went in and spent nearly an hour wandering around, 
both on the ground and upon the ramparts. The Bay of 
Bengal is on the east side. I viewed this water for the 
first time. Coming out I sat down in the shade a few 
minutes and wrote in my diary. After this I cut across 
another road to the Central station, where I arrived in 
the city. I then went along across the river. Just on 
the other side is the Moore Market, a fine impressive 
building of brick, but nothing like the size of the one in 
Calcutta. Next to this is a magnificent building, the 
Municipal Hall, not quite finished. This is about 300 
by 100 feet, three stories, built of brick, with the outside 
facing of terra cotta. The entire outside is one mass of 
small columns, arches and fancy work. On top, in the 
very center is a fine dome. A little further along is a 
fine Art School, one room of which is open to the public. 
There is quite a fine exhibit of silver and gold ornaments, 
carpets, hangings and pottery ceramics, etc. The next 
item of interest is St. Andrew's Church, situated in large 
fine grounds. This was built in 1820 and is now almost 



328 MADRAS 

black from the effects of the weather. It appears to 
consist of a great number of fluted columns. The main 
entrance is a great portico supported by eight round fluted 
columns and on top are three steeples. The roof of the 
church proper is dome shaped. The interior and main 
parts are covered with memorial tablets. Above and 
around are small painted windows and back of the altar 
is a fine large window with figures of St. Peter and St. 
Andrew. 

Just across the way is the South Indian Station, where 
I will take the train for the South. I went across to a 
shed where a nice breeze blew and rested for some time. 
I then went in the station and bought a ticket for Tuti- 
corin, the end of the railway, where I will have to board 
the ship for Colombo. After looking around a little I 
went aboard the car and rode past the Central station 
by a different road and then by the Y. to the Beach 
road and along this about a mile, passed on one side a 
number of fine buildings, notably the postoffice and tele- 
graph office and several banks, customs, etc. I alighted 
and went on one of the piers and watched the busy harbor, 
then back to the car line, boarding the car and getting 
off at Broadway just past the Y., and went into a bazaar 
and bought some postcards, then went down Broadway 
to the branch postoffice, where I wrote a postcard to De- 
troit. I had dinner at the same place where I obtained 
breakfast this morning, afterwards going to the Y. It 
was 1 o 'clock and very hot. I went into the reading 
room, wrote and read until 5, when I got my things to- 
gether and went down street to wait a few minutes for a 
car. After reaching the station I bought some food and 
then went on the platform where I sat down and wrote 
until the train pulled out at 6:30. I got into a com- 
partment containing two long seats and a ledge above. 
In a couple of minutes an Eurasian lady came in and 
proceeded to fill up all the seats. She only had two small 
trunks, two boxes, two lamps, two satchels, a bundle of 
bedding, etc. Then a man came in and the place was 
full to overflowing. The lady gave one of the coolies that 
handled her baggage a piece of money to pay them all 



TANJORE 329 

and he must have divided it wrong, for a couple came 
back several times arguing and gesturing. At the first 
stop the man left and another woman came aboard. She 
had several packages, etc., and among them was a huge 
hat box which was too large to get into the compartment. 
At this place the two women went into the dining car. 
When they came back one suggested that I go up on the 
upper berth, which I proceeded to do. About 11 :30 one 
of the ladies got off and I hustled around and handed out 
some of her things. 

FEBRUARY 7. Turned out at 6 after a fair amount 
of sleep. The train was then stopping at Tanjore, 220 
miles from Madras. The next thirty miles to another 
town we passed a splendid looking piece of country, 
there appearing to be plenty of water and the land was all 
planted to rice. At the last town I bought some food 
and had breakfast. The next twenty-five miles the coun- 
try was the same, and from there to a place called Dindi- 
jui it was more rolling and quite a number of hills were 
in sight. From there to Madura, thirty-eight miles, it 
was drier. We passed quite a bit of waste land. This 
was covered with cactus, and then right on through to 
Tuticorin, there was a splendid country covered with rice 
and cotton. At a small place there was a great temple 
with several small pagodas, and back of the town a great 
rock just like a boulder, but the mass of it must have 
been 1,000 feet cube. At 8 :30 the English lady came to 
life and finally opened a conversation with me and we 
were at it hot and heavy until noon. I discovered she 
had been in India fifteen months and had traveled every- 
where. I could not help thinking, what most people would 
have thought, of a woman traveling around a country 
like India. She told me that at first she had traveled 
first and second class, then had tried intermediate and 
finally figured that third class was good enough. She was 
intending to visit some missionary friends and expected 
to be met by them, but when we came to her destination 
there was no one in sight, so she went on to another town, 
but there was no one there. I certainly had to admire the 



330 TUTICORIN 

bold front she put on. There she was dumped off in a 
small town, probably not a white person within twenty 
miles, but she seemed to take it all good naturedly. 

On arriving at Tuticorin we had to pass the doctor 
and a number of us had to go to the quarantine station, 
where we stripped and had our clothes fumigated. 1 
then went aboard a launch, which presently started for the 
ship Bharta, more than three miles out. There was a high 
wind and most of the passengers were drenched and the 
boat rolled so badly that several of the natives were sea- 
sick. On coming aboard I located a place on deck and 
put down my luggage. 

At 6:30 the ship started and at 8 three of us were 
given a good supper — a large plate of meat, potatoes and 
vegetables, plate of rice and curry and some pudding. 
As I did not expect anything this was a treat. The sail- 
ors then rigged a tarpaulin on one of the hatches, making 
a tent. This kept out the wind and at 9 I crawled in here 
and fixed up a bed. 

FEBRUARY 8. I arose at 6 when the sailors were 
washing down the decks. After having a good wash I 
was given a cup of tea and some bread and butter. I did 
not sleep very well as I was worried. At Tuticorin they 
had insisted on my taking a return ticket as they said 
I might not be allowed to land. The boat drew into the 
harbor and anchored at 7. In the meanwhile I had passed 
the doctor, answering all his questions, and thought I 
was all right, but when I tried to go aboard the launch I 
was held back and then found out what the trouble was. 
No one, unless in possession of a ticket for some other 
point, or who had fifty dollars in his possession, is al- 
lowed to land. Well, it was easy for me to show this 
amount and I went aboard the launch. 

On landing a young fellow kindly directed me to the 
Y. By 9 I had found the secretary, who told me he 
could put me up, and I sat in the reading room and con- 
versed with a young man till 10 when I started out. 

I went from the Y. along Chatham street, which is 
one grand business street. A number of fine buildings, 



COLOMBO 331 

stores, banks, etc., line this street. On the end is a great 
clock tower like a lighthouse. 

Queen street, another fine thoroughfare, crosses here. 
I turned out and then stopped and saw a soldier playing 
with a monkey. Then went on to the Austrian Lloyd office 
and found out I could leave Monday. I am glad I did 
not stop another day at Madras as I might not have found 
out about this boat and it might have been two weeks 
before I could get another. 

After this I strolled around Queen street, passed some 
more grand buildings, notably two great banks and post- 
office and government buildings. The latter is a long low 
building with splendid grounds filled with flowers and 
foliage. 

I next went to the dock where I landed, then along an- 
other business street to Cook's office. Here I changed 
some money, then went to the Y. and out Chatham street 
nearly a mile to the market. This is right in the center 
of the native district. There were two fair-sized build- 
ings but not as large or fine as those of Calcutta. One 
building was given over to meats of all kinds and a few 
vegetables and fruits. There were lots of different kinds 
that I never saw before. I sampled a pineapple and a 
new kind of an orange but bought nothing. I then went 
to a stand and had some dinner and then back to the Y. 
M. C. A. It was now 1 o'clock and fearfully hot. I 
wrote on my Detroit letter until 4, then went out and 
watched a cricket game and then to the rear of the grounds 
on to Main street. Along this are the better class of 
native shops. A couple of blocks away in a side street 
is a Hindoo temple, having a long frontage. Over the 
grand entrance, which is in the center, is a massive tower, 
one mass of horrible figures. On either side are similar 
small towers. A couple of blocks farther on in a side 
street is a Mohammedan mosque, a building of red and 
white brick. On either side, about half way up, are foul* 
great red pillars. There are two fine entrances leading 
into the building, on the top of the building there are four 
great domes and eight smaller ones. 

I then went into another street and went back toward 



332 COLOMBO 

the main part of the city along by the docks and came to 
a shady place. I sat down and did a little writing and 
I then went down to the main part and watched the people. 
A boat going to Australia was now in the harbor and 
quite a number of passengers were on shore. I then came 
back near the Y. to a small station and here I ate at a 
small stand. I am glad I shall not be here long as prices 
are out of sight. I have to pay a rupee (32 cents) for 
a bed, just twice as much as in India. The price of food 
is high in proportion. After watching the crowd at the 
station for a time I went back to the Y. where I read 
until 9 and then went to bed. 

FEBRUARY 9. Arose at 7. After cleaning up as 
well as I could I went down to breakfast and afterwards 
read until 9, when I went to Main street and along this to 
the Pettie Wesleyan Mission, a walk of nearly a mile. On 
the way I was continuously shaking my head at rickshaw 
men and dealers who wanted to sell something. The 
streets were sprinkled with petroleum to keep down the 
dust. 

I found a small church which would hold about 250, 
and including twenty sailors there must have been 150 in 
the congregation, all but the sailors and myself being 
native Eurasians. The minister was an old man. We 
had a very good service and at the end an infant was 
baptized. 

On coming out I went back to the Y. It was now very hot 
and my umbrella came in handy. At the Y. I read and 
wrote until 11, when we had breakfast. On entering the 
reading room a young fellow with a monkey clinging to 
his arm was there. From 12 to 2 I was busy writing a 
letter to Detroit. I then tried to make myself comfort- 
able till 5 o'clock when I took a walk down to Queen 
street, and then down a continuance of this, called Galle 
Face road. This runs for a mile along the beach and has 
a fine promenade of cement right alongside a carriage 
road and further over is a road for motor cars. On the 
first road were one and two horse carriages, rickshaws and 
bullock carts, and in these and on the promenade were the 



COLOMBO 333 

elite of the city. All along were benches and I wandered 
along the whole distance observing the crowd. 

At 6:30 I watched the sun set into the sea. At the 
end of this promenade is the Galle Face hotel, the grandest 
in Ceylon. This is three stories. There is a main build- 
ing and two wings and it has a frontage of about a 
thousand feet and a depth of one hundred. 

Off near the corner of the park were thirty cocoahut 
palms nearly one hundred years old. I stopped here long 
enough to hear a native band play a tune. Just before 
they finished the tops of the trees burst out into many- 
colored lights, electric bulbs being strung around the tops. 

It was 7 :30 when I returned and just in time for din- 
ner. I entered into conversation with a young fellow 
and then a couple more broke in. It was 9 when I got 
up from the table. I had twinges of conscience as I had 
intended going to church. I then wrote until 9 :30, when I 
went to bed. 

This was another hot day. The original natives in this 
country allow their hair to grow long and put it up in a 
knot at the back of the neck, and wear a comb something 
like a sidecomb on the top of the head. 

The Y. is a fine, roomy, rambling building situated in a 
great field that must contain one hundred acres. In front 
there are two gigantic trees, one a balle and the other a 
banyan. , ' 

FEBRUARY 10. Arose at 6 and after having some- 
thing to eat went down to the docks to see if my boat had 
come. On not finding it I got on a tram and went to the 
end of the line, the car going out Main and Dam streets 
and Grant Pass road and the Kily Vida river. 

I went through a small market here and then went to 
the bank of the river, where I watched bananas being 
unloaded from sampans. These were flat boats covered 
with palm leaves. I then went across the river and on 
either side was a tropical forest, mostly cocoanut palm 
with a few banana trees scattered about. 

I went down to one side and watched a number of na- 
tives busily engaged getting trees into shape for boat 



334 COLOMBO 

building purposes. On an elevated platform were a couple 
of logs, which two different crews of three each were cut- 
ting lengthwise with crosscut saws. 

Each one of these natives was naked except for a breech 
clout. These men spend a day performing work that 
would be done in one of our sawmills in less than a minute. 

After this I went back to the car line and then to the 
city. Went to the dock office to get news of the boat from 
Singapore to Manila and then to the British India office 
where I got my refund on the return ticket I had bought 
at Tuticorin. Then went down to another office where 
I received the "cheering" news that the boat I expected 
would not be in before Wednesday. This is disgusting, as 
I fully expected to get away tonight, this town being too 
expensive to suit me. 

I then went down to the docks and wrote and watched 
the crowds until 11, when I went to the Y., where I read 
and conversed until 4. 

Then took a long walk across an arm of the river to Slave 
Island, along New road, passed barracks and some fine 
residences, then along a narrow native street, next along 
another fine avenue to Union Place. 

Here I located the Salvation Army offices, but none 
of the officers were there. I then proceeded along this 
street for about a mile, passing many fine hotels and resi- 
dences, also the Y. W. C. A. building, which was built in 
bungalow style. 

Coming back, when passing through a native street, I 
had supper and after getting back to the New road I 
went across a sports field and across a railroad track to 
the bank of the river. Here I sat down and rested for 
some time. 

At this point there must have been hundreds of turtles 
submerged up to their heads, which were above water. 
To one side was a primitive ferry — a boat pulled across 
by a rope. 

I then went down to Galle Face road and sat down on 
one of the benches and watched the sea and people until 
8. Then I went to the Y., 'running into a Mr. Tracy 
from Hartford, Conn., and we conversed until 9, when I 
went to bed. 



COLOMBO 335 

During our talk he advised me, if I could do so, to take 
a trip to Kandy, the ancient capital of Ceylon. 

FEBRUAEY 11. Eose at 6 and took a long walk, get- 
ting some breakfast on the way. Finally finished up at 
the main landing dock, where I watched the crowd until 
9, when I went again to the ticket office and waited there 
until 9 :30, but found out nothing. I was assured it would 
be several days before the boat would show up. I then 
determined to locate the Salvation Army and see if I 
could not get a cheaper stopping place. I happened to 
find the right man at headquarters who said he could put 
me up, but it was a long way out. I told him that did not 
matter, I would get to his place at night. I then went 
back to the Y. where I stayed until 4, when I went once 
more to the ticket office and now had definite news — the 
boat would not be in before Saturday morning. I then 
got on a tram and went out to the Salvation Army Home, 
going to the end of the line, which must have been four 
miles, and then walking another mile. The car ride was 
through the native quarters, passing the main railway 
station, a couple of barracks and then by a splendid lot 
of bungalows. On leaving the tram I found myself in the 
country. 

The Salvation Army Home is within large grounds. 
Over these are scattered cocoanut, palm and banana trees. 
They also have quite a garden and keep cows and chickens. 
There was a main building of a dozen rooms and a num- 
ber of smaller outhouses. A cot was put up for me in a 
room which was about 16x24 and twenty feet to the roof. 
About two-thirds of the floor was covered with cocoanuts. 
There was also a number of trunks left by tourists. There 
was another occupant of the room whose name was 
Whyly. He was a Scotchman and had knocked around 
over the country and all of the world. He had traveled 
over the United States from the Pacific to the Atlantic. 
At present he was temporarily embarrassed and was waiting 
for a ship to Australia. He had just come out of the 
hospital a week before. After a little conversation we had 
dinner, consisting of a goodly portion of fish, potatoes, 



336 COLOMBO 

sliced tomatoes, campers' bread and a dessert of apple 
pudding. Afterwards a couple of native boys brought in 
a cot, spread matting, a blanket over it and gave me a 
sheet and a pillow. The major was all the time apolo- 
gizing for everything being so rough ; but the place looked 
fine and homelike to me. Whyly and I talked until nearly 
9. I then strolled up and down in front of the house and 
after awhile went to bed. 

FEBRUARY 12. A very heavy thunder storm during 
the night. Arose at 6 :30 and after a wash read and talked 
till 8, when we had tea, consisting of a whole cup of tea, a 
plate each of bread and butter and some bananas. After 
this I wrote in my diary, read and conversed with Whyly 
till 12, when we had breakfast. A bowl of soup, a plate 
of rice and currie, sliced cucumbers, bread and pawpaw 
fruit. After resting awhile I did some laundry work, and 
then read till tea at 3. After this strolled and read till 
7 when we had dinner. Afterward going out and rubber- 
ing at the natives, who looked after the farm and domestic 
work. They were all busily employed, cooking, bathing or 
looking after the domestic animals. At 9 I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 13. Arose at 6 and having noticed a 
small outhouse suitable for the purpose, I obtained a pail 
of water and had a fine shower bath. I wish I could have 
had this place along with me all the time. After this I 
walked around until we had breakfast at 7. I then con- 
versed with Whyly until 9, when I did some laundry work, 
then strolled around the grounds until 10, when I went in 
and read and wrote until 12, when we had breakfast, consist- 
ing of rice and curry, bananas, bread and butter. I then kept 
on reading until 3 when we had tea, Whyly and I then 
conversed until 4, when I put on my shoes and hat and 
took a walk of about four miles, first passing a crew of 
natives digging a sewer, next a vaccination station and 
contagious hospital; after this, the observatory and asy- 
lum. The latter is surrounded by a high wall which must 
be a quarter of a mile square. I next passed a number of 
golf links and bungalows. It was an enjoyable walk. The 



COLOMBO 337 

sky was clouded over and what resembled a cool breeze was 
blowing. On returning it was just starting to rain and 
it afterwards came down in chunks, making a horrible din 
on the tile roof. At 7 we had dinner. I then read and 
talked to Whyly until 10, when we turned in. 

FEBRUARY 14. Rose at 6. Had another good bath 
and then conversed with Whyly until 8, when we had tea. 
After this I strolled up and down for an hour, and then 
read and talked until 12, when we had breakfast. Then 
conversed with Whyly until 3, when we had tiffin. I 
then got ready and went down town. Got a check cashed 
at Cook's office and then went to the boat office, finding 
out that my ship would leave tomorrow at 10. I bought 
my ticket and went back to the home, it being nearly 6. 
Found that during my absence another boarder had shown 
up — a German fresh from Germany, who is a kind of 
freak, being a pronounced vegetarian. 

I settled up with. the major, then talked to Whyly. until 
just before 7, when the boy fetched in the German's din- 
ner. A fresh cocoanut was broken into and the water 
served for his drink and besides this there were scrapeS 
cocoanut, tomatoes and rice. At 7 :30 Whyly and I had 
our last meal together. Afterwards I finished my De- 
troit letter and then talked with Whyly until I went to 
bed at 10. 

FEBRUARY 15. Arose at 6 and said good-bye to 
Whyly. Walked to the tram, getting off at the Y. There 
I gathered up my belongings and went to the landing 
where I took a boat to the ship. I must not forget to 
say that the major at the home is a splendid man and 
used me white in every way. Shortly after getting aboard 
I had breakfast which consisted of a bowl of coffee and a 
portion of bread. I was given a large loaf and was told 
that that was my portion for the day. 

After this I rambled around a little, then sat under the 
awning and watched a couple of crews unloading. It was 
fearfully hot. We were supposed to sail at 10 but did 
not get off until 12. This boat's name is the Austria and 



338 INDIAN OCEAN 

is 7,600 tons burden, more than three times the size of the 
little Gastine. It also has a wireless apparatus. 

I am the only European traveling deck, and there must 
be fifty Asiatics and one Chinaman. At 1 I had dinner 
consisting of a large plate of beans, a plate of soup, a 
plate of potatoes and some bread. This was handed out 
to me through a window of the galley and I ate it on the 
hatches. After this I watched the sea until 3, when I 
went upon the after deck and finding a platform, built 
back of the wheel house, I decided it would be a good place 
to camp and forthwith I brought my things and proceeded 
to enjoy a nap until I was awakened at 5 by thunder and 
thereafter the rain came down in chunks. The awnings 
began to leak which kept me hustling around to dodge 
the drops. It continued showery and was raining hard 
when I went down at 7 to see if supper was ready. 

We were going around the island and were still in 
sight of land. Supper consisted of a huge slice of meat, 
maccaroni and bread. After this I talked a while with 
two young fellows who were above the common herd, then 
strolled up and down until 9 when I went and fixed my 
bed. I had it all made and by this time the sky was 
clear. I almost forgot to mention that before leaving the 
Salvation Army I gave Whyly a little money to buy to- 
bacco for himself. 

FEBRUAEY 16. "Was awakened about 1 by the rain 
which was coming down in chunks. I stuck it out awhile, 
but finally was driven below and sought shelter in the 
corridor by the galley, where I sat down and did some 
writing. 

On the cessation of the shower I went back to my roost. 
The platform where I had been lying consisted of a num- 
ber of short pieces of plank. These I turned over, ob- 
taining a dry surface. 

I then slept fairly well until 6 when the attention of 
flies woke me up. I watched the waterscape until 7 when 
I got up and went below and had breakfast. 

Then a long talk with three superior Cingalese. It 
seems that they are not satisfied with the food and I tried 



INDIAN OCEAN 339 

to reconcile them to this. Told them, among other things, 
the company charged us only about eighteen cents a day 
and we were getting mighty good value for our money. 

I then promenaded the deck and went back to my 
lonely quarters where I read until 12, when I went down 
to dinner. After another promenade I came back to my 
perch and had a siesta. 

I then read and wrote until 6 when I went below and 
conversed with the three until supper at 7. This con- 
sisted of a large portion of hamburg steak, lettuce salad 
and bread. 

After this I strolled along the deck until 9, when I went 
up to my perch and settled down for the night. It was 
not so hot today as the sun was obscured part of the time. 

In the evening there was quite a display of electricity 
which looked like another storm. 

FEBRUARY 17. Arose at 6 as the crew were about to 
wash down the decks. Didn't rain in the night, although 
it was cloudy this morning. 

Going below said " hello " to the three and then had 
breakfast — coffee and bread as usual. I then showed the 
three my collection of coins and conversed awhile, then 
went back to my perch where I read and watched the 
silent waves until 12. Then I went below and had dinner, 
consisting of macaroni and a mixture of potatoes and tur- 
nips and a hard boiled egg. The latter was contributed by 
the leader of my three friends. 

After this I wrote up my diary. After promenading 
awhile I went back to my perch and took a siesta until 3, 
then read and watched the sea until 6, when I went 
down below and strolled along the deck until supper time. 

I then lay back on the hatch for a few minutes and 
then strolled up and down the deck until 8, when I went 
to my perch. The cabin passengers must be either sick 
or shy, as nothing is seen of them. 

The stewardess came down and was talking to the 
kitchen staff. It was amusing to me to watch her using 
her whole body in this performance. There was a strong 
wind and the sun was obscured part of the day. 



340 BAY OF BENGAL 

FEBRUARY 18. Rose at 7, and went down on deck 
and had a good wash and then had breakfast. After- 
wards talked to my three friends and wrote for awhile. 
Then strolled along the deck for an hour and watched a 
card game until 11 :30 when I went to my perch where 
I wrote and figured until 12:30, and then went down to 
dinner. 

Afterwards coming back to my perch I found the three 
also there. I showed them my collection of postcards. 
While doing this we met a boat. This could not have been 
more than a hundred yards away, and it was the very 
smallest I have seen out in the middle of the sea. It was 
no bigger than a good-sized tug. After this I lay down 
and had a siesta until 5 when the sun, getting low, started 
to shine under my covering. I then moved out on the 
hatch, lying there until 6; then back to my perch as the 
sun had gone behind a cloud-bank. After this I went 
down and after waiting a few minutes had supper of a 
plate of rice, meat and bread. I came very near being 
cheated out of my portion of bread as a small boy had 
appropriated it, but after considerable gesticulating I 
was doled out another. After this I lay back on the hatch 
and rested a bit, ancl promenaded for awhile. After doing 
some more figuring went back to my perch and at 9 
turned in. 

FEBRUARY 19. After breakfast I strolled toward the 
fore part of the boat. Noticing something of a disturb- 
ance, discovered that the cotton in one of the holds was 
on fire. This hold was being flooded, while the crew were 
busy taking the cotton out of the hold ahead. I asked 
no questions, but carefully came away and went back to 
my perch. I have no idea how far we are from land, but 
as we have wireless apparatus on board I presume calls 
for assistance have gone forth. I did some writing and 
figuring, talked to the three until 10 when I went down 
to investigate the fire. Found the crew had about one 
hundred bales of cotton on deck. The hold where the fire 
is raging is just ahead of the engine room. "Water is being 
poured down the ventilators. As I asked no questions I 



BAY OF BENGAL 341 

do not know what headway is being made. After watch- 
ing the crew for a few minutes I went back to my perch 
and talked to the three and learned something of the con- 
dition of the working man in Ceylon and India. I was 
informed that thirty cents for a mason and fifteen cents 
for his helper would be good daily wages, and an ordinary 
coolie would have to hustle to pick up ten cents a day. 
After finishing I went to the foredeck and investigated the 
fire, but nothing was to be seen, of course. Water was 
still being forced down and the top of the hatch was flooded 
all the time. I presume the worst danger is that the heat 
may blow open the hatch. In that case it would be a 
hard job to save the ship, as it is blowing a strong breeze. 
After this I went back to my perch and talked to the 
leader of the three until about 1. I lay down for a siesta 
shortly afterward. I was roused up by a shout from the 
three, and just in time to see a small boat. This was just 
about the same size as the one seen yesterday. She was 
heavily laden, her deck being just a few feet out of water. 
At 3 I discovered a large boat apparently coming from the 
southwest, headed across our course as we were going al- 
most straight east. This must be a cargo boat as we are 
going faster. At 4 I went down again to investigate the 
fire and found most of the officers and crew gathered 
about the hatch. In a few minutes the captain gave the 
word and at once the tarpaulin was thrown back and part 
of the covering of planks at either end taken off. This 
was an anxious time as the wind was blowing very strong 
from the fore, and the cabin superstructure was imme- 
diately behind this hold. As the hatch was open a great 
volume of smoke burst forth, but nothing deterred, six 
men — the captain, two officers and three sailors plunged 
in with hose in their hands and in a few minutes the smoke 
subsided, and it was possible to see what damage was done. 
Now all danger was over and the next business was to 
save as much of the cargo as possible. I was barefooted 
at this time and stopped long enough to put on my shoes. 
The natives not being allowed on the foredeck clustered 
around me to know if the danger was over. 

On going back I watched operations until 6, bearing a 



342 BAY OF BENGAL 

hand once in awhile. Most of the top cargo consisted of 
different sizes of rope. This, along with a few boxes of 
beeswax and about fifty bales of cotton, were thrown over- 
board, and then both sides of the deck were covered with 
merchandise billed for Penang, our first stop. 

The fire originated in the cotton, which must have been 
damp when loaded. The captain and men were dressed 
in spotless white uniforms which were mighty queer look- 
ing when they came out. 

During all this time the first class passengers, which 
consisted of two Americans and their wives, were on the 
upper deck, just back of the burning hold. Once when 
changing the hose from one part to another they all had a 
taste of the contents, but no one minded as the water was 
not cold. At 6 I went to supper, then went back to the 
hold, but all was quiet. At 7 I went up to my perch and 
read the log. I forgot to state I had done this at differ- 
ent times during the day and found out we had been 
making about 11 miles per hour. I then talked to the 
three awhile and turned in at 8. I now realized we had 
escaped a great danger. 

FEBRUARY 20. At 1:30 a cry from my three com- 
panions drew my attention to a great rock on their side 
of the vessel. Shortly after I noticed a disappearing light 
from my side that must have been a lighthouse. 

I arose at 6 and at 7 read the log, which showed 135 
miles in twelve hours, almost eleven miles per hour. I 
wish I had kept track from the first. Most of these logs 
have double dials showing both the units and hundreds, 
but this one shows only units. I then went down and had 
breakfast, afterward- wrote up my diary. I should have 
noted that the natives, excepting my three friends, are 
all Tamils and will not eat or handle anything outside 
of their caste. After the cooking is done for each meal, 
a few of their people take possession of the kitchen and 
cook for the crowd. After finishing writing I went up 
to the foredeck finding the burnt hold as I last saw it in 
the evening. I then strolled about for an hour, then to my 
perch where I conversed with the three until 12, when I 



BAY OF BENGAL 343 

went down to dinner, which consisted of two plates of 
rice and a bowl of bean soup and bread. I then prome- 
naded for an hour and afterward went to my perch- where 
I slept and read until 4. At this time a boat hove in 
sight, gradually overtaking us. This proved to be the 
Africa, belonging to the same line as ours, which left 
thirty-six hours later than we did. Although not much 
more than one-half the size of this boat it travels a good 
deal faster. About 5 it was abreast and the two vessels 
were signaling. I then went below and promenaded the 
deck until 6, when I had supper, afterwards going to my 
perch and watching the moon rising on the water. I then 
joined the three and we sang songs until 8, when I went 
below and had a stroll, going up into the foredeck to take 
a last look at the Africa, the light of which could just be 
seen. At 9 I turned in. 

FEBEUAEY 21. I had just gone to sleep when I was 
awakened by a terrible din, which turned out to be a couple 
of the crew serenading me. I looked at my watch and it 
was just 11. The two kept up the concert for probably 
an hour. I arose at 6 :30, read the log and found we had 
made 160 miles in fourteen hours. I then went down below 
and promenaded for a few minutes, when I had breakfast. 
The wind had risen in the night and was now blowing a 
gale and this made it nice and cool. At 7 :30 the outline of 
the land came in sight. 

After eating I promenaded awhile and then went to 
my rest and wrote and watched the land. "We slowly drew 
near and began to pass a great number of small narrow 
boats, almost like canoes, some of which had sails. The 
land seen to our right is mountainous and covered with a 
thick growth of trees. At 10 we took on the pilot and 
were just abreast of the outskirts of the city of Penang. 
After we took on the pilot we passed along the city to 
the other end, when we turned around slowly and worked 
in closely. 

Penang is situated on an island with a strip of water 
about a mile wide separating it from the main land. It 
was in this spot we were manoeuvering. 



344 PENANG 

At 8 a doctor, accompanied by three assistants and a 
Chinese woman, came aboard and we were counted and 
examined. The Chinese woman was dressed in a long, 
brown, silk blouse and loose trousers and wore European 
shoes and stockings. The trousers came to within a few 
inches of her shoe tops, her hair was beautifully coiffured 
and gold hairpins held it in place. It was not until 12 
that the crowd of touts and money changers came aboard. 
We then lost all of the Indian passengers and took on 
some Chinese instead. At 12 :30 I had dinner. After this 
had to hurry back to my perch as the Chinese were taking 
possession. I marked off my berth and then came down 
and watched them starting unloading operations. The ship 
is surrounded by small boats which are mighty queer- 
looking affairs, almost like a canoe, and a number of native 
sailing vessels are continually passing. These were pro- 
vided with tough-looking sails, looking as if they had 
been through the wars. The native boatmen wear flat 
hats that look like umbrellas. Coolies who are looking 
after the unloading of the cargo are Chinese. 

At 4, being tired, I went up to my perch and slept until 
6. At this time the three Chinese who share my stand are 
having supper. The sun is sinking behind the mountain 
back of the town and there is a nice breeze. I got down 
and watched the unloading for awhile and then had sup- 
per. I then wandered around rubbering and had a long 
discussion with a native steward. I then sat on the hatch 
abaft and listened to some one thumping the piano, and 
watched the animated scene around, when I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 22. I rose at 6, after a good night's rest, 
and went down below. Strolled around awhile and then 
had breakfast. Got fixed up and went ashore with three 
of the crew. Penang is an island at the northwest ex- 
tremity of the strait settlement on the Malay Peninsula. It 
has a population of 125,000, mostly Chinese. Just to the 
right of the landing stage is a splendid building, housing 
postoffice, telegraph office, etc. The next street to the 
shore, running parallel with it is Beach street and con- 
tains most of the great banks, shops, etc. There is a 



PENANG 345 

branch of "Whiteway & Laidlaw, of Calcutta, on this street. 
I went along for upwards of a mile. On the latter part 
of the way were restaurants, bazaars, etc. I stopped in 
one of these and bought some cards. Got to the market 
running through toward the beach. I went out to the 
shore road and then continued along this until I came upon 
a Chinese Temple. The shore was lined with native boats 
of all kinds. The tram line runs along this street. The 
temple is back from the street, there being a beautiful 
yellow and white stone wall surmounted by high fences 
in front. The building is small, about 60x30 feet and 
20 feet high. It has a steep, pitched roof. Two sets 
of stone steps lead to the entrance and a sloping roof 
comes out over this. There are six small columns along 
the steps. Under the roof are hung a great many beau- 
tiful lamps. The walls are covered with fine paintings. 
The roof is a mass of enameled crockery, dragons and other 
figures. A little further along I noticed a strong smell 
of fish and came upon a great open space covered with 
boards and this was loaded down with millions of different 
kinds of fish drying in the sun. Just beyond this the 
car track turned to the right into the Penang road. I 
followed this for a mile to Gladstone road. The first street 
was lined with small shops which carried ship supplies. 
Gladstone road ran into Dato Eamata road, a wide street 
lined with fairly good-sized buildings. A short distance 
along this I came to a great Buddhist Temple. In front 
is a stone wall eight feet high and 150 feet long. There 
is a small entrance here about 50 feet long leading to the 
entrance into the temple. 

There is another stone wall here about fifteen feet high, 
having a frontage of 100 feet. Above the first entrance, 
which is brick, is a small Buddha surrounded by figures 
of elephants and gods. Over the inner entrance is a great 
tower covered with a number of figures. On the walls are also 
three other towers covered with gods. Within the grounds 
are a number of beautiful palms. On either side of the 
street are various ditches lined with cement. These are the 
sewers. I sat down on the sidewalk with my feet resting 
against the side of this ditch and wrote a description of this 
temple. 



346 PENANG 

I forgot to mention that just after landing, when turn- 
ing into Beach street, part of the Penang Fire Depart- 
ment came along, a combination engine and ladder outfit, 
run by a motor. 

While I was sitting in this ditch a huge motor sprinkling 
car passed me. This city must be right up-to-date. On 
going on a little farther I turned off in a side street and 
I went along this to the end and back on another street. 
These streets are lined with small native houses, built up 
from the ground on poles about 6 feet high. I then con- 
tinued along the car track, shortly coming to grand houses, 
all built on blocks and having spacious grounds. It was 
now getting fearfully hot and I stopped in the shade for 
a few minutes to cool off. Just beyond where I was sitting 
was a large sports field containing a band-stand, a fine 
monument of David Brown, one of the great men in the 
early history of this country. Coming to the branch 
postoffice I went in, bought some stamps and sent away 
a number of cards. Just beyond this is the prison, which 
is surrounded by great walls, and here the tram line ends. 

I then followed the beautiful avenue for more than 
half an hour, coming at last to the Catholic cemetery, and 
what I was heading for, the foot of the great hill beyond 
the town. Along this avenue, which is called Western 
road; are splendid residences, in spacious tree-covered 
grounds, most of the trees being cocoanut palm. Just at 
the edge of the cemetery is a small chapel. I took a seat 
on the steps of this and rested while I admired the beau- 
tiful surroundings. Beyond the small cemetery is a grove 
of cocoa palms. These run along to the foot of the hills, 
the sides of which are covered with a heavy growth of 
trees. Right up on the very peak which must be about a thou- 
sand feet above the sea, is a small cluster of buildings. 
After this I walked back to the car line and boarded a 
car for the jetty, going part of the way along the beach. 
Going out this morning the tide was out and the bottom 
could be seen forty rods from the shore. Now this was 
covered with water. We passed a splendid building con- 
taining the offices of the Federated Malay States Railway. 
On landing at the jetty I wandered around a little and 



PENANG 347 

then went into a small market close by, where I had 
dinner. Here I found a table covered with fine eatables 
costing a cent apiece and I had a very good feed for a 
nickel. I then went along Light street, passing a number 
of grand banks and office buildings, stopped at the Su- 
preme Court building, a huge structure of many wings, 
towers, etc. I found the public library in one of the 
wings, went in and read until 3, when I sallied forth again 
and walked along Light road, which follows the shore 
line. It was a continuous procession of grand residences, 
hospitals and public buildings, ensconced in beautiful 
grounds. I passed three different sport grounds and 
stopped to watch games of tennis, football and croquet. 
I came back on a different road and followed the shore to 
the jetty, then on to the railway office where I looked over 
some time-tables and maps. The railway starts across the 
strait on the mainland and a ferry takes passengers across. 
I then took another long walk, winding up at the jetty, 
where I boarded a small boat for the ship. The water was 
very rough and it seemed like a miracle to me how the 
boatman kept his small craft from capsizing. On arrival 
at the ship I soon got rid of surplus clothing and had a 
good wash, and then conversed with the three until supper 
time. "While I was eating I had a chance to see how coolie 
labor is handled, as the foreman cuffed several on the side 
of the head a few times. After supper I went up to my 
berth and conversed with the three until 9, when I 
turned in. 

FEBRUARY 23. Arose at 7, had breakfast, then went 
up to my perch and read and enjoyed the beautiful sum- 
mer scene till 11. At this time a new arrival, the "Clan 
Maclvor," of Glasgow, came in from the west and an- 
chored near us. Two boats came in during the night, one 
of them a large passenger boat. These are now busy dis- 
charging cargo. I was for going ashore to church, but it 
is not certain when we will sail and I could not run 
chances. Part of the time I had been reading a copy of 
the Montreal Witness which I obtained in Colombo. 

At 12 T had dinner, consisting of rice, soup, sauerkraut 



348 PENANG 

and bread. Just after I finished the coolies were fed rice 
mixed with curry, which they ate, using their hands in- 
stead of knives and forks. At this time a great raft 
passed, .towed by a tug, and was taken ashore farther 
down the harbor. 

Aftei* this I went up to my perch and took a siesta until 
4 when I conversed with the three till 6, then went down 
to supper. Later I hunted up a pail and went back to 
my perch and did some laundry work, then conversed with 
the three till 9, when I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 24. Arose at 6 and after breakfast I 
wrote on my letter to Detroit till 11, when I had to quit, 
being too nervous to hold the pencil any longer. I then 
talked with the three till 12, when I went down to dinner. 
Then came back and took a siesta till 3, when I had to 
move, as the crew had started to fill the hold near our 
camping place. On looking over the side a whole barge load 
of sacks of peanuts were to be seen. These nuts are smaller 
than ours, and although not roasted, taste fairly good. 
During the loading a sack fell overboard and for a won- 
der there were no small boats at hand, and as there is a 
swift eddy through the strait, the sack was nearly out 
of sight before a boat came along and was started in 
pursuit. 

This morning we heard the ship would leave tonight or 
in the morning, while tonight an old Chinese checker said 
it would not leave for two or three days. This is a serious 
matter to me as the boat I intend to take from Singapore 
leaves on Saturday, and I want some time in Singapore. 
I would not mind waiting until Wednesday morning as I 
would have plenty of time then. The trouble is I do not 
know for certain whether the boat for Manila carries deck 
passengers. If it does not it would pay me better to go 
to Hongkong by this same boat and then to Manila. The 
three went on shore at 4. After that I sat in the ship 
and ate peanuts and watched the loading operations till 
6, when I went down to supper. 

I then strolled up and down the deck for a while and 
watched the hurrying throng of stewards and others for 
a time. 



PENANG 349 

At 8 the three came back and I went up and talked with 
them till 9, when I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 25. I arose at 6. Before this the boat- 
swain came along and made me feel good by saying we 
would leave today. After strolling around awhile I had 
breakfast at 7 and then went up and conversed and 
watched the scenery until 10, when I went down below and 
watched the loading operations until 12. Just before this 
a number of Chinese passengers came aboard. 

There were three women among them and each had a 
baby on her back. At this time another boat, belonging 
to the same line, came from Singapore and anchored along- 
side and all the officers and crew signaled back and forth 
for some time. 

At 12 :30 a Japanese boat heaved her anchor and started 
for Rangoon. Altogether there must have been nearly 
fifty Chinamen on board. The lower deck was littered up 
with their cooking pots, wood, provisions, etc. 

At 2 we finally pulled up anchor and started and I laid 
down and watched the shore until 5, when I went down 
to the lower deck and watched the Chinamen preparing 
food. There were two great receptacles for the fire and on 
top were cauldrons filled with rice and curry. When they 
had everything ready I envied them their food as besides 
the rice and curry they had eggs, sandwiches and melons. 
All the men and a couple of small boys about four years of 
age sat down on their haunches and went at it with chop 
sticks, and it was a comical sight to watch the two small 
boys. 

After watching the chinks till they finished I went back 
to my perch and did some writing until 6, when we went 
down to supper, the best meal we had had for some time. 

After this I sat down in a boat alongside the rail and 
conversed with one of the three while I enjoyed the sight 
of the moon shining on the water. I turned in at 9. 

FEBRUARY 26. After a fairly good night's sleep I 
was awakened by the patter of raindrops and we all had an 
exciting time until 7, when the last shower was over. I 



350 SINGAPORE 

pushed my baggage into a corner and covered it up as 
well as I could with papers. I then put on my overcoat 
and held an umbrella over my head and let it rain. There 
was a great scurrying around among the Chinese. 

At this time a large steamer came abreast on the port 
side, but she gradually forged ahead. At 6 :30 I read the 
log and found we had covered 165 miles in fourteen hours. 

At 7 I went down to breakfast, after which I prome- 
naded the whole deck for an hour. At this time cooking 
operations were being carried on by the Chinese. The 
Chinese babies are a comical sight, being dressed in pants 
and blouses like their parents. After this I went back to 
my perch and read and wrote until 11. I then talked to 
the three and watched the land on the left until 12, when I 
went down to dinner. 

After a short stroll I read until 6 and went down to 
supper. This consisted of a plate of meat, dumplings and 
bread. Afterwards I read until 7, then conversed with the 
three until 9, when I turned in. 

FEBRUARY 27. At 4 some of the crew took in the log 
so I knew we were nearing Singapore. Arose at 5 and 
got ready to disembark. At 6 we took on the pilot. 
Islands all around us. At 7 I had breakfast. "We 
steamed slowly in and tied up at 8, not in at the dock but 
close up against another boat. This operation was a very 
ticklish piece of business. On the deck was a gang of Chi- 
nese women tearing up a portion of the flooring and carry- 
ing away the stuff. For the latter purpose they used a 
couple of baskets slung on poles. 

At 8, having to go through no formalities, I went ashore. 
The town is a couple of miles from the dock so I boarded 
a tram which set me down at the postoffice. At 9 the office 
opened and I got a letter that had been posted in Detroit 
on November 14. After reading this I had some money 
changed and went to a ticket office where I procured a 
ticket to Manila. Although the distance was 200 miles less 
than from Colombo, it cost me three dollars more. I then 
took a walk back to the postoffice just outside of which I 
bought some cards, went in and wrote and posted the same 
to Detroit. 



SINGAPOEE 351 

I then took a long walk and passed a number of grand 
buildings, notably the city hall, opera house and Hotel de 
Europe. The former was a huge structure of stone sur- 
mounted by a great tower. A little farther along was 
the St. Andrews' cathedral, the largest Protestant church 
I have seen in the East. It is situated in fine grounds and 
is built of stone and topped with a fine steeple. The inte- 
rior is inclined to be after the luxurious order, there being 
a grand altar and three superb windows behind this. I 
passed a great number of stores, shops and bazaars, con- 
ducted mostly by Chinese, and turned off into a fine street. 

The British and Foreign Bible Society has a fine build- 
ing here. I went in and was directed to the Y. M. C. A. 
At a corner of this street, at Stamford road where I turned 
off for the Y. M. C. A., is a splendid three story brick 
building belonging to the Methodist Publishing Co. Just 
a short distance along the Stamford I came to another 
magnificent building, the Raffles Library and Museum. I 
went in and read till 3. The building is on an elevation 
in fine grounds and must be 300 feet long by 100 wide. 
There are two floors and it is built of red sandstone and in 
the center is a splendid dome. 

While I was there we had several heavy showers. To 
one side up a side street on a hill is the Wesley M. E. 
Church, a beautiful building, and the next building to the 
Library is the Y. M. C. A., a fine large institution contain- 
ing two floors. I went in and found on the main floor a 
reading room, billiard room and small cafe, a game room 
and the office. I stayed in the reading room until 6 w T hen I 
went out and had supper and took a long walk out towards 
the outskirts and passed a large number of Chinese shops, 
bazaars and restaurants, also some fine hotels and splendid 
residences. Coming back at 7 I just missed another heavy 
rain. I then read till 10 when I inquired about lodgings. 

I was told there was no one in authority around. As I 
had depended on this place and looked up nothing else 
I was up against it. I studied a few minutes and then 
concluded to go back to the dock and go aboard the Aus- 
tria. I walked about a mile, then took the tram. Going 
some distance past the place, had to walk back and it was 



352 SINGAPORE 

11 before I reached the dock only to find the Austria had 
gone. As there were other ships there and loading opera- 
tions were going on I made up my mind to stay until 
morning. Coming upon a truck not in use, I placed some 
matting over it, pushed it up alongside of the warehouse 
and prepared to obtain what rest I could. At 12 the crew 
that was loading the boat immediately in front of me quit 
for supper, and a few minutes afterwards a dock police- 
man came along. He could not talk much English, but he 
must have understood what I said for after looking at me 
a few minutes he went away and did not bother me any 
more. 

The crew came back after awhile and kept at it until 
morning. I slept very little, although dead tired, as I 
was a little afraid some one might touch me for my watch 
and money. The crew were mostly Chinamen and I had 
a very good chance to see them work. There were ten of 
them doing what one American would consider easy work. 

FEBRUARY 28. At 6 I walked back to the city. As it 
was about three miles it was 7 when I struck the market, 
not far from the postoffice. Here I had breakfast. I then 
went on a little further to the boat landing, stayed here 
for a few minutes and watched a lively scene. "While doing 
so a man passed, whom I took for an American, and he 
looked at me pretty hard. In a few minutes he came back 
and asked me what part of the States I came from. We 
then got into conversation and he told me he was from 
Texas, but had been wandering around the eastern coun- 
try for a year. On asking me where I was staying I told 
him of my experience, and he mentioned the name of a 
place where I could stay, and offered to guide me to it as 
he had nothing to do. 

We spent an hour walking right out to end of Beech 
street, and then back by North Budge road, but did not 
find a place. It appeared that it was in the other direc- 
tion. 

We had a fine walk and talk. Most of the way was 
through the native quarter. Beech street especially was 
lined with small buildings, which appeared to be much alike. 

There were bazaars of all kinds, restaurants, native 



SINGAPORE 353 

lodging houses and small manufacturing plants. I found 
that my Texas friend had no use for the natives or mis- 
sionaries, especially the latter. 

On coming upon the Sailors' Home I went in and inquired 
about lodging, and also the location of the Boustead In- 
stitute, that being the name of a place my friend had in 
mind. 

I then went to the Library and read until 12 when I 
went down to the market for dinner, having a couple of 
plates of rice and curry. As far as food is concerned this 
is a very cheap place. 

I went around the market rubbering for quite awhile, 
and then went into the postoffice and did some writing. 
Next to the Y. and was held up some time on the way by 
a very heavy shower. 

I stood for half an hour under shelter and then being 
tired I hoisted my umbrella and bolted forth. The rick- 
shaw men all had a good bath, but as it was warm it did 
not hurt them. 

On gaining the Y., I read and wrote until 7, when I 
went downtown and got something to eat at a stall and 
then went to a place where I had promised to meet the 
Texan. Shortly after I got there it started to rain and 
although I waited until 8 my man did not show up : "While 
standing here a continual stream of rickshaws was pass- 
ing. 

I then went to the Sailors' Home, a block away, and con- 
versed with a couple of fellows until 10 when I turned 
in, but not to sleep. 

I talked quite awhile to another man there and at 11 an 
English sailor came in and talked until late. I had to 
listen to the horrible language he was using. Every three 
words were filthy. I went to sleep at last. 

The day was very hot tempered by a few showers. 

MARCH 1. Rose at 6 and started for the Botanical 
Gardens. Had something to eat on the way. "Went out 
by the Y. and onto a street called Orchard road, which 
I followed for a couple of miles, passing first through the 
native quarter of shops and then into the suburbs. Here 

12 



354 SINGAPORE 

were beautiful residences amid large tree-covered grounds. 
Coming to a seat, in the shade just inside the gate, I sat 
down and rested while I watched the passersby. I then 
went on about a mile farther, coming to the end of the 
road. Asked a man here in regard to the Garden and he 
told me I was going wrong. As it was getting mighty 
hot and I had a long walk back to the Y., I passed it up, 
especially as I had seen a mighty good imitation of a 
garden all the way along. It was 9 when I struck the Y., 
and I read until 12, when I went down to the market and 
had dinner. I then went to Johnston's pier and landing 
jetty and watched the animated scene. An old Chinese 
woman appears to act as customs inspector and as I am 
writing this account, she is sitting in a chair cross-legged, 
busily sewing. 

I stayed on the jetty until 5, as it was nice and cool, 
there being a strong wind blowing. "While here I saw 
every kind of people, also witnessed the smashing of a 
boat belonging to a poor coolie. A couple of fine looking 
Japanese women came along. They must have spent sev- 
eral hours fixing up their hair and each wore a kimono-like 
garment. This fell to within six inches of their feet. One 
garment was white with black dots and the other white 
with black stripes. They were barefooted and wore 
wooden sandals. 

At 5 I boarded a car and went out as far as the dock and 
then walked on another mile, looking for Boustead Insti- 
tute, only to find that I was wrong and I had a walk back 
of about a mile. I located the place finally and had sup- 
per. I then went to the Institute, which is a magnificent 
building of three floors. I sat down at the table and read 
until 9, when I went up on the second floor and wrote 
while a bed was made up for me. Cots were brought out 
into the large room used for mission services. These cots 
were a novel affair to me, inasmuch as they have a frame- 
work, over which netting is hung to keep the mosquitos out. 
At 10 I turned in. 

MARCH 2. At 7 I got up and started uptown and had 
some breakfast on the way. When I reached Johnston's 



SINGAPORE 355 

pier I went on the landing and enjoyed the breeze. Stayed 
there until 8:30, when I started for the Wesley M. E. 
Church. I timed myself, arriving just at 9, when the ser- 
vice was supposed to start. 

I was in time to take part in the closing exercise of the 
Sunday School. Afterward we had a splendid sermon 
and service conducted by an American. 

On the service ending I went to the Y., and stayed 
there until 6, reading and writing. I then started for the 
dock to see if my ship had come in. This was a long 
walk of nearly three miles. 

I went the length of South Bridge street, passing two 
magnificent government buildings. 

A little farther along I came to a temple which had a 
high stone wall one hundred feet long. On the top were 
a few images. At the entrance, which was in the center, 
was a great tower covered with animals, buddhas, etc. As 
I passed the entrance I had a glimpse of scattered small 
buildings within. 

It was 6 :30 before I reached the dock where I was in- 
formed my boat would not arrive until tomorrow. I then 
retraced my steps to the institute a few blocks away. 

Had supper at a Chinese stall, then went to the insti- 
tute where I read until 8. Hearing singing upstairs I went 
up, and joined in the service, which was splendid. They 
sang a dozen old favorite songs, and then we had a talk 
from an American. I afterward read for a little while 
and then went to bed at 10. 

MARCH 3. Eising at 7, went across the street to a 
Chinese stall where I had breakfast. 

It was raining heavily so I went back to the institute 
and read until 10, then down to the dock and found my 
ship, and was informed she would leave tomorrow. Went 
back to the institute where I read until noon. 

After making a dinner of some kind of a confection ob- 
tained at a stall I went at my Detroit letter and finished 
it at 3. As the rain had now let up a little I went up- 
town and posted my letter, and went across to a jetty 
where I watched the crowd awhile. Tiring of this I went 



356 SINGAPOEE 

to the steamer office and got my overcoat and baggage that 
I had left there and was told I would have to go aboard the 
boat tonight as it left very early in the morning. 

I started for the institute, when the rain came down in 
torrents once more. Stopped in at a shelter for a few 
minutes, but as it showed no signs of letting up I finally 
struck out and by the time I reached the institute my 
shoes and trousers were wet through. 

I then read until 6 when I went down to the ship. On 
going aboard I was at once asked for my ticket, and one 
of the stewards took me in hand and traveled nearly all 
over the ship. Then I was turned over to the boatswain, 
who took me below to the firemen's quarters. 

Here, in the course of half an hour, a bunk was rigged 
up and I was provided with a tick, pillow and blanket. 
I then tried to get some supper, but it was too late and I 
wandered up and down the dock until 8 when I turned in. 

MARCH 4. This is the day President Wilson is in- 
augurated. Had a fair night's sleep, although every time 
I woke up I could hear it raining. 

I rose at 7 and tried to find out about breakfast. This 
is the worst boat I have struck yet. Apparently not a 
soul can speak English. After chasing around for nearly 
an hour I finally obtained a small chunk of poor hard 
bread. 

The rain stopped at 8. I notice by the bulletin that 
the boat will not leave until 6 this evening. The rain must 
have interfered with the unloading of- the cargo. 

After breakfast I went on the dock and wandered 
around and observed the busy scene. 

At 9 it started to rain once more and at 10 I went 
aboard and found this was the dinner hour. I was given 
a large dish of vegetable soup and a dish of meat, pota- 
toes and beans. Here was more than I could eat, so I 
divided up with one of the poor chink coolies. 

On taking a look at the notice board it now stated we 
would sail at 4. If it had not been raining I might have 
taken a trip uptown. As it was I wandered over the 
ship awhile, and then on to the dock and back again. 



SINGAPORE 357 

I conversed for a short time with a couple of Americans 
who were traveling first class. A couple of men in small 
canoes interested a bunch for awhile in diving for pieces 
of money. 

In the dockhouse every kind of curio is displayed for 
sale. There seems to be quite a crowd of passengers. Among 
them I notice two monks, a priest and two nuns. The 
two latter are splendid looking, vivacious Spaniards. 

I also watched the unpacking and setting up of a cou- 
ple of Ford motor cars. 

At 2 I went as far as the institute where I read until 
3 :30, when I went back to the ship, and at last we finally 
pulled up anchor and got under way at 5. 

I then got into conversation with one of the Americans. 
There were two of them who had been out in the Philip- 
pine Islands since 1900, and were just coming back from 
a furlough spent in the States. 

At 5 I had another dinner — a huge dish of soup and a 
dish of some kind of stew. I then watched the progress 
of the boat out of the harbor. This must have been shal- 
low as we moved slowly. 

As we were going away from the dock a man and boy 
showed marvelous skill in diving for pieces of money. At 
8 I went below and turned in. 

We are still moving slowly, and are in sight of land. 
Several ships are round about us, and the rain keeps pat- 
tering down. "With the exception of about an hour this 
morning it rained all day. 

MARCH 5. At 6 I got up and rustled a cup of coffee 
and a couple of biscuits for breakfast. I find that this 
boat goes a great deal faster than either of the Austrian 
Lloyds and as a consequence pitches and rolls considerably. 
After eating I sat down on some raised ventilators near 
the galley and observed the leaden sky and sea. I was 
in luck to get a bunk with the crew as every place on deck 
is sodden with water. There are four poor Indians on one 
of the hatches who, although having tarpaulins over them, 
are nearly flooded out. I stayed by my ventilators most 
of the time till we had first dinner at 10, most of the time 



358 SOUTH CHINA SEA 

having as a companion a young Indian boy apparently 
about sixteen years of age, having a bright smart pleasant 
appearance. 

It is quite a sight watching the crew at meals. About 
forty seat themselves along the decks on low individual 
seats singly or in crowds and they throw enough food 
overboard to feed at least a dozen. Certainly no one can 
complain of being hungry. At this meal I was given a 
large dish of vegetable soup, a dish of rice, and a kind of 
curry besides my portion of bread. After eating I sat in 
the same place until after 12 just rubbering, then I found 
a magazine and read most of the time until 5. I moved 
to the after deck and while reading also had the privilege 
of seeing coffee roasted for the ship's use. A small heater 
was used, to which was attached a revolving drum. This 
drum would hold about twenty pounds of coffee. 

At 5 I read the log and found we had made thirteen 
knots an hour. I then had a second dinner and afterwards 
strolled up and down the deck awhile and spent the re- 
mainder of the time till 8 observing the passengers, when 
I turned in. 

MARCH 6. . Arose at 7. The ship rolled fearfully and 
1 felt tough. The food had been too heavy and greasy. If 
I could have got a hold of something sour I would have 
been all right but in order to keep from being sick went 
to my bunk and, with the exception of a few minutes spent 
in the purser's office making out a customs declaration, I 
stayed there all day. This is another wet day and I am 
certainly thankful I have a roof over my head. 

MARCH 7. Felt better but still thought it was advis- 
able to stay in bed, and lay there planning, figuring and 
scheming. An Arab who could speak English came in several 
times while I was lying there and asked if he could do 
anything for me. Toward evening the thought of food 
didn't seem so repulsive so at 5 I ate some macaroni soup 
and bread, afterwards catching up with my diary, while sit- 
ting on an after hatch. 

It had quit raining, cleared off and was just fine. Most 



SOUTH CHINA SEA 359 

of the passengers were strolling np and down deck. Two 
Spanish girls about twenty years old, who looked like 
twins, seemed to receive considerable attention. After 
awhile an Indian steward came around and we conversed 
until 9, when I turned in. 

MARCH 8. Not feeling too good I didn't leave my 
bunk until 10, getting up just in time for the first dinner. 
I had just come out of the galley with my dish of hot 
soup when a couple of the crew got into a fight and in the 
scuffle, part of the soup was spilled over my hand, burning 
it quite severely. For a change we had a kind of omelet 
which tasted all right. After this I went up into the fore- 
deck and enjoyed the gentle breeze while I read and wrote. 
Scattered around the floor were eight sleeping firemen. I 
stayed right there until 5 when I went to a second dinner 
consisting of a portion of macaroni soup and another por- 
tion of potatoes and meat. It was not too bad. 

After finishing I went back to the foredeck and read till 
it was dusk and then laid back and drank in the grand 
breeze and watched the passengers stroll up and down the 
deck, I then promenaded until 9, when I turned in. 

MARCH 9. On turning out land could be seen off the 
port side, away ahead. I promenaded the deck and 
watched the land until 10, when we had first dinner, a dish 
of rotten fish and soup, which I could not eat, another of 
peas, potatoes and meat. Some of the latter I managed to 
do away with. Afterwards I had a cup of coffee. Finish- 
ing I went up to the foredeck and watched the land. This 
appeared to be an island of irregular shape, probably five 
miles in length, and at the lower end was a lighthouse and 
quite a stretch of level ground, which was covered with 
trees and plants. It then appeared to be of mountainous 
nature, sparsely covered with trees. A little later it ap- 
peared as if the lighthouse was on the small island and not 
on the main island. On the other island I could see, pop- 
ping up above the trees, a large building. After a little I 
discovered that instead of a small island this was a part 
of the Island of Panay. We continued until within one- 



360 ILO ILO 

half mile of shore, when we took on the pilot and then 
turned abruptly to the left, then followed the shore, which 
was rocky and covered with trees, passed by a number of 
small coves, in one of which there was a saw mill. All this 
time we had a shore line away to the left as well as one 
in front. In the afternoon at 3 we anchored in a narrow 
straight opposite the mouth of a river that runs through 
Ilo Ho. It being Sunday the inhabitants turned out in 
force, three launches as well as a couple of motor boats 
coming out to meet us. It was fully an hour before the 
doctor could show a clean bill of health and then quite a 
number of the passengers went ashore. I did not bother 
because I understood that we would not sail before Mon- 
day night. I amused myself until 5 watching the natives 
unload the cargo, and also watched a number of sailing 
vessels. The latter were mostly small boats with outrig- 
gers on the side. One or two of the crew would be out on 
one side of this balancing the boat. After supper I noticed 
a bulletin board which said we would start at 7 in the 
morning, so at 6 I went ashore on a launch. This went to 
the mouth of the river and followed it for about a mile. 
The stream was not large and on either side were the 
houses of the natives, small and built on piles for the most 
part. Where we landed were a number of large buildings, 
warehouses, shops and offices, then a couple of blocks came 
on the main part of the place — a great square. In the 
center was a fine park, containing a band stand and quite 
a number of seats. Around the square were a number of 
shops, hotels, etc., as well as a large church, the latter a 
fine old edifice topped with a great tower at either front 
corner. It did not take long to see the main part of the 
town. I then wandered into the Y. M. C. A. rooms as 
there would be no launch to take us to the ship until 9. 
"When I went down to the dock I had to wait until 10 
before the launch started. I had been feeling miserable all 
that day, my head seemed to be on fire and on getting 
aboard I got a piece of ice and fixed up a cold drink. 
While doing this I heard a commotion aft and on investi- 
gating found that one of the natives was crazy drunk and 
running amuck. He was secured before doing much dam- 



ILO ILO 361 

age and after considerable trouble was gotten aboard the 
launch. After watching this performance I went down 
and got my bedding and took it to the foredeck. About a 
dozen of the crew were there ahead of me but I managed 
to find room. A fine breeze was blowing this way and this 
was better than sleeping in the hold. When I went down 
the night before the place did not seem good to me and 
I shall not sleep there any more. 

MARCH 10. Did not sleep, although a cool breeze was 
blowing. My head kept burning all night. I arose at 6 
and after a good wash and a cup of coffee I felt better. 
Punctually at 7 our boat started back by the same route. 

At 8 we dropped the pilot and then steamed up. I took 
a seat on the foredeck where there was a fine breeze and 
wrote up my diary. I am very sorry we made Ilo Ilo on 
Sunday as it prevented me from obtaining any post cards. 
The crew are now giving the deck aigi extra scrub and this 
is an amusing spectacle. One goes ahead and wets it down 
a little, then sand is sprinkled, then four men follow push- 
ing bundles of twigs back and forth with their bare feet. It 
seems like an old-fashioned performance. The first day 
out I noticed a boy about ten years old being carried about 
by an Indian servant, almost in the same manner as the 
Indians carry their babies. I thought he must have been 
the pampered son of some rich planter. I since learned 
that he is a son of a missionary and is crippled. They are 
sending him to the States to be cured. 

At 10 I had my first dinner of two dishes of very good 
bean soup, bread and a cup of coffee. I am allowed to help 
myself to the latter, since it is known I do not drink wine. 
I ate in company with the missionary boy's servant and 
another young Indian. Afterwards the former gave me a 
couple of small papers. I then went up to the foredeck 
and made my bed in a comfortable place on some ropes. 

It is now very hot. It was not until 12 we rounded a 
lighthouse, passed when going in, that we caught a 
breeze. This was fine. In the meanwhile I read my papers 
and settled back for a siesta and slept until 3. "We still 
had the land in sight a couple of miles away. It looked 



362 BAY OF MANILA 

like one mass of volcanic hills, burned and seamed. There 
were very few trees. I should have noted the fact with 
the exception of one small steamer, there were no vessels 
of any size in the harbor at Ilo Ilo. I sat on the deck and 
enjoyed the breeze until 5. I then had a second dinner. 
Just at this time a strong breeze strengthened into quite 
a gale and the sea was covered with whitecaps. I ate 
dinner with the two Indian boys and it seems the younger 
is in sore trouble. He has no ticket and will not be al- 
lowed to land. I felt sorry for the boy as I had taken a 
notion to him on account of his manly appearance. I had 
been trying to cheer him up but it was a poor try. Just at 
this time we came abreast of a small island on the port 
side, which contained a lighthouse. 

At 7 I took it for granted by the number of lights that 
we were passing that it was a fair sized town. After stroll- 
ing along deck for awhile at 8 I went up to another deck 
and fixed up my bed. The wind was blowing a gale and 
as I had no shelter this almost blew the hair off my head, 
but as I wanted the fresh air I stuck it out. I lay gazing 
at the sky until 11 before going to sleep. I never saw such 
a sight in my life, the sky seemed to be one mass of stars. 
This was a very hot day but I did not feel too bad. 

MARCH 11. Was routed out at 5 :30 by the crew wash- 
ing down the deck. It is 11 months today since I left De- 
troit. Taking a look around I saw a beautiful sight. We 
were in a strait, land on every side. I sat down on one 
of the hatches and ate my bread and coffee, then went 
down and did some laundry work, then back to the hatch 
where I wrote and watched the passing scenery until 9. 
While sitting here the crew were drawing up mail sacks 
out of the hold. I saw a number of porpoises and flying 
fish. At 10 had dinner, afterward talked to the Arab fire- 
man until 11, when I went up and took a seat on the after 
hatch. Land was still in sight and I heard we would ar- 
rive at Manila at 1 o'clock. 
At 12 I went up on the foredeck. It was grand here. At 
1 we passed between two sets of fortifications into Manila 
Bay. A lighthouse is being constructed in the narrow en- 



MANILA 363 

trance. Manila can now be seen just above the horizon. 
I am now thinking of Dewey's trip into this harbor in 
May, 1898. "We kept steaming on and on, it looking as 
though we would never get to the end. Finally, at 3, the 
city could be seen plainly. "What I take to be Moro Castle 
is off the starboard side. At this time the sailors took 
down the awning and I went to the lower deck. "We then 
were boarded by customs officers and at 4 entered the in- 
ner harbor, and maneuvered for some time trying to make 
the dock. In the meanwhile we all had to pass through the 
first class state room and be checked off. I wish we had 
gotten in this morning, as now the banks are closed and I 
have no change, nothing but a fifty dollar A. B. check. 

The harbor is very pretty and two fine American gun- 
boats are anchored in the offing. When within 100 feet of 
the docks, on account of the high wind, or for some other 
reason, our ship backed out into the stream and going out 
to the breakwater, tied up, and it was 6 before we started 
in launches for the customs house. On getting there I had 
a long walk to the Y., which was a fine large building. The 
first thing I noticed inside the lobby was a notice that a 
meeting was to be held in the Opera House, conducted by 
Fred Smith, International Secretary of the Y. M. C. A. 
On inquiring at the desk about lodgings I was told I 
would have to see the secretary and he was away at the 
meeting. I inquired the way and finally got to this place 
just as the meeting started. The building was like a great 
hall and was packed with men, mostly Filipinos. We sang 
a couple of songs, then were favored with a couple more 
songs by a quartette, then a prayer, another song, two 
more from the quartette, Scripture reading and then more 
than an hour's talk by Mr. Smith. It was a wonderful 
address. It was after 10 before the meeting was finished. 
I waited until the crowd got out, then located the secre- 
tary and told him my situation in regard to money. In 
reply he said they had no accommodation at the Y., but 
that he would give me the address of a hotel and told me 
where it was. I thanked him and started out, but was in 
exactly the same condition as before. I could not go to a 
hotel without baggage and expect them to put me up. I 



364 MANILA 

kept going until at 11 I reached the pier where our boat 
had been going to tie up, knowing the boat was unloading 
there. The dock house was a great covered shed and a 
Filipino, a special policeman, was at the door, but I went 
right through as if I owned the place, continuing on to the 
end of the building, where I sat down on a truck and 
watched the crew work until 12, when they knocked off 
for supper, which they ate in a small shed outside of the 
entrance. I went out and sat on some poles and observed 
the crowd. Two women had brought their respective hus- 
bands their supper, and they were sitting at the other end 
of the log. "When they had finished, women and all smoked 
cigarettes. In going from the Y. to the Opera House, 
I found out that this was a hustling, busy place. 

MARCH 12. At 12 :30 the men went back to work. I 
took a short walk and then came back and sat down on 
the poles till 2:30, then another walk to put my blood in 
circulation, as it was getting a little chilly. Next went 
into the dock house once more. I had only seated myself a 
few minutes when a white official of some kind wanted to 
know the reason, and when I explained, took me into the 
office and gave me a coat for a pillow and allowed me to 
lie down on a long table, where I slept till 7. I then started 
uptown, passing between two immense concrete ware- 
houses to one of the gates of the walled part of the city. 
This wall is about eight feet high, built of small square 
stones. Just inside I was passed by a great auto ice wagon, 
and a little farther on came upon the Manila Cathedral, 
a great old structure 100 feet wide and 300 feet deep, 
built of stone. Over the fine entrance are four statues of 
saints. The interior is beautiful. Running down either 
side is a row of fine marble columns. There are several 
altars and some splendid painted windows. Outside the 
center is crowned by a great dome, and in front is a small 
park, in the center of which is a fountain, and on a stone 
pedestal a bronze statue of some old-time Spanish king. 
This is the Plaza de McKinley. 

I then went over town and located the British Consul's 
office. There being no one there I sat down and read the 



MANILA 365 

papers awhile, then a man came out and told me that the 
Consul would not be in before 10. I then hunted up the 
postoffice, but found no mail. This was a grievous disap- 
pointment, as I expected letters from Detroit. 

I saw a policeman and asked about lodging, and was di- 
rected to a couple of places, and on inquiry I found the 
price to be too high for my purse. 

Near this in the Plaza Santa Cruz is another large 
church, built of stone, dark with age. It has a great tower 
over the entrance. The interior is pretty rusty looking, 
but there are several fine altars. 

After inspecting this I went back to the Consul's, stop- 
ping in at ticket offices on the way. I received the morti- 
fying intelligence that I would have to pay $20.50 for a 
ticket to Hongkong, which is only 640 miles away, and then 
I would have to expend $85 for a ticket from there to 
America. 

On getting back to the Consul's I read till he and his 
clerk came in, when my terrible anxiety was eased by 
finding the letter containing money, which I had expected. 
By 11 I had received my money. 

As I had fasted since 3 the day before I was ready for 
food, and went to the market, which is quite a place, com- 
prising three sheds filled with all kinds of produce. There 
were quite a number of eating stalls here and I picked out 
one at which they were serving rice and other Chinese 
food, and when there was an empty seat I sat down. Just 
as I seated myself a man touched me on the shoulder and 
motioned me to one side and then asked me if I knew what 
I was doing. I told him I preferred better food and com- 
pany, but had no extra money to spare. He then invited 
me to come with him and I went along, although as he was 
not any too finely clothed I expected to pay my own way. 
He was an Irish American, and on the way he told me he 
had spent fourteen years on the Island, and although work- 
ing for the government, had a grudge against the officials. 
We went into a fine restaurant and took seats at a table 
which was loaded down with food. As I figured I would 
have to pay a fancy price I did not stand on ceremony, 
but waded in. Finally having finished, my friend asked 



366 MANILA 

if I had enough, and on my nodding, he paid the bill for 
both and we went down to the street. After a few minutes ' 
desultory conversation he said he had to catch a car. I 
thanked him warmly as we parted. I then wandered 
around the block, then back and went across the street to 
a lodging house. They had lodgings but the price was 
prohibitive. Crossing the street I stood here for some 
time. Finally a man whom I took for a sailor came along 
and on accosting him found I had guessed right. He knew 
nothing of lodgings, but he named a couple of boats which 
he was sure were going to Hongkong. One of these he 
thought would be going about Saturday. This would suit 
me all right and I will try and look it up. Started out, 
but within a couple of blocks ran into a fire hall, and there 
being a bench on the shady side I sat down and did some 
writing. I then went to the postoffice, buying some more 
cards on the way, which I wrote and sent away. Then 
went across to an open shed on one of the many canals 
scattered through the town, and tried to keep from burn- 
ing up. Unlike India, Ceylon and the Straits, all the peo- 
ple of this city wore clothing. Even the coolies, unloading 
boats, have on trousers and shirts, at least. The women 
look queer, whatever they are wearing being heavily 
starched and standing out quite a distance from them. 

There are no rickshaws here, the vehicle in common use 
being a double-seated, covered, two-wheeled rig, drawn by 
a small pony. Most of the trucking is done on two-wheeled 
rigs drawn by bullocks. Some of these have horns close 
together, but most of them are spread apart, and branch 
out for a considerable distance on either side of the head. 
There was quite a number sitting in this shade and a few 
keeping the ice cream peddlers busy. At 4 I got into the 
walled town and hunted up the Library and stayed there 
until 6. I then went down to the dock to find out about 
the two boats, told me of by the sailor. One had left yes- 
terday for Hongkong and the other is leaving for a trip 
around the islands tomorrow. 

I then went back through the town, had something to eat 
and then took a long walk to the Y., just getting there a few 
minutes before 8, when the meeting started. After a cou- 



MANILA 367 

pie of songs an address was given by Mr. Robins, a col- 
league of Mr. Smith, and he spoke for two hours. The 
subject was " Industrialism ' ' and he handled it in a mas- 
terly way. When the meeting closed I walked to the lum- 
ber yard I had noticed and prepared to spend the night 
there. At this a Filipino watchman came along and ques- 
tioned me and said it was all right, but I had just gotten 
nicely settled when he came back, accompanied by another 
man, and I had to move. They took me to a small shed 
adjoining the office and told me to camp there. 

MARCH 13. At 3 a sailor was brought to my camp, an 
American who had gotten drunk and spent his money. He 
had also lost his hat. I did not get much sleep, but rested 
anyway. 

At 6 we were routed out. The other fellow hurried 
away for a drink of whisky, but I had a wash and put 
myself in as presentable shape as possible before leaving. 
I stopped in at a big shed, close to the Bridge of Spain, 
stayed there until 7, then took a long walk to the market 
where I had breakfast at a stall. I then retraced my 
steps and continued on toward the Y. Just after crossing 
the Bridge of Spain there is what I thought was a pretty 
fine park for so central a location but on inquiring found 
out this was the Botanical Garden and the Zoo, and I 
spent some time going through. Every variety of trees 
growing in the tropics is found here. There is also a small 
collection of animals and birds but what especially drew 
my attention and caused me to look for some time was a 
lawn mower in operation, run by an electric motor. This 
was the first one of these machines I had seen. I then 
went on to the Y., where I stayed until 12, then back to 
the Garden. Had dinner in a stall at the side of the 
street. I then lay down on the grass and had a siesta until 
2, when I went back to the Y. and read until 6. I then 
walked along Arroceres street, which runs alongside the 
Botanical Garden. A fine hospital, stores and army head- 
quarters are on one side of the street. Near the end of 
the Garden is the approach of a bridge across the river. 
Here is situated a huge building, being the power house of 



368 MANILA 

the Manila Eailway and Lighting Plant. Just across the 
bridge is a great market. I went into this and had a plate 
of rice and curry for supper, then back to the Y., where I 
read until 10, afterwards going to my lodging in the lum- 
ber yard and after a few minutes' conversation with the 
watchman, fixed up as comfortably as I could and turned 
in. 

MARCH 14. After a good wash I went down to the 
pier where I had breakfast, then took a walk along the 
water front, passing a grand monument of one of the kings 
of Spain and the massive five-story Beach Hotel. Next 
went up the Lunetta road, a fine boulevard, towards the Y. 
Going to a seat in the shade I sat down and did some 
writing. "While here two companies of soldiers passed and 
in a few minutes came back and went through a number 
of evolutions. I have seen soldiers of every country I have 
passed through, but never such a fine body of men as these. 
In all other countries they appeared like automatons or 
children. 

When the soldiers finished. I went on to the Y., it now 
being about 8 o'clock and very hot, and wrote until 11. I 
then went to the market and had dinner at a stall, and then 
back to the park where I had a siesta until 2. Afterwards 
went to the Y., where I read until 7 then started out and 
walked slowly along to the Opera House, having something 
to eat at a stall on the way. I got to the building just 
before 8, and listened to a military band until 8 :30, when 
the speaker arrived. Bishop Brent and General Bell gave 
short addresses, before Mr. Robins, the speaker of the even- 
ing, was called upon, and he gave us a wonderful address, 
taking two hours to deliver it. This was in the way of an 
autobiography. It was 11 before the meeting was over 
and I then hustled for my usual camping ground. 

MARCH 15. Arose at 6, went down to the piers to try 
and find the Yuen Sang, which sails today. Had break- 
fast at a stall there. The Mongolia, one of the fastest 
steamers of the Pacific Steamship Line, was in dock. 

As she was going to Hongkong I thought I would see if 



MANILA 369 

I could make the trip by her. I located the steward, but 
he said "no," that second class was the best I could do, 
and he mentioned $85 as the price to San Francisco, and 
all of a sudden it came to me that this was what I should 
do — buy a ticket right through and have no more trouble. 

I would not have thought of this if I had not read an 
account yesterday in a magazine of a trip on one of the 
vessels of this same line, and I know from that she goes by 
the way of China and Japan and stops at all the places I 
care to see. 

I would have to pay the same fare from Hongkong and 
I was figuring on going from there anyhow. On coming to 
this conclusion I headed for the ticket office to get all 
available information, stopping at a park in front of a 
cathedral to rest and write. 

I then went on to the office and after a few inquiries 
bought my ticket right through to San Francisco and I am 
perfectly satisfied with the proposition. This is a case of ill 
wind, etc., because under the circumstances I am better off 
than if I had been able to go to Hongkong for nothing, 
as I had made up my mind to buy a through ticket from 
there and it would not have been over this line as I thought 
they only sold first class, but I would have gone by a Jap- 
anese boat and have missed seeing Honolulu, and landed 
at Seattle. 

I also felt I deserved a little luxury after my hardships. 
The only fly in the ointment is that we will have to stay 
seven days in Hongkong, but I have the address of a lodg- 
ing place there. 

After finishing this business I went to the Y. and read 
until noon, then into the garden where I had dinner at a 
stall, then slept until 2. At this time the Indian boy, who 
on the Legazpi was looking after a missionary's son, came 
along and it seems his party was to go by the Mongolia, 
but the lady was taken ill so they had to postpone and will 
go by a later boat. 

On my telling him the Mongolia, 27,000 tons burden, 
was one of the largest boats that traveled the Pacific, he 
expressed a desire to see it, so I took him down to the dock. 
On the way he pointed out a Methodist Church which I 
wanted to locate. 



370 MANILA 

The boy almost went into hysterics when he glimpsed the 
monster vessel. I paced off the length and made it 750 
feet. After observing the scene for a time we started back 
and after walking a few blocks parted. 

I was passing along by the wall of the city when I came 
upon a ball game in progress and stayed until they fin- 
ished. This is the first game I have seen since the day I 
left Detroit. Both teams played a fine game, the score 
being only one to nothing. 

It seemed like home as boys were selling candy, drinks, 
ice cream, etc. After this I went to the Y. and watched the 
latter part of a game there. This lasted until 6. I then 
went about a block away where there was a stall and had 
supper. Then went to the Y. and read until 7, when I 
went to the Lunetta. Just reached the band-stand as the 
music started and stayed until they finished at 10. 

This was a military band made up of Filipinos. All of 
the elite of the city were out. After this I went to my 
same old home and turned in at 11. 

MARCH 16. At 2 the watchman awakened me and 
pointed to the main part of the town where a great fire 
was in progress. I watched it for awhile and then went 
back to bed. At 5 :30 I turned out and went toward the 
main part of the town and passed where the fire had been 
doing business. It was in the Escolta, the main street, 
where several stores had been gutted. Two engines were 
still on the job. I then went on to the market where I had 
breakfast, and afterwards took a walk of a couple of miles 
out one street and back another, arriving at the market. 

I went down to the river where a small steamer was load- 
ing up for a trip. I then went on across the bridge to the 
postoffice where I stayed and did some writing, then to the 
Y. w 7 here I read until 10, then to the Central Methodist 
Church where I enjoyed a good service. The church would 
hold about 300. "When I got back to the Y. it was noon. I 
went to a stand close by and had dinner, then to a small 
park where I slept until 3. As I was thinking of getting 
up and going to the Y., the Indian boy came along and we 
conversed for awhile and then I showed him my collec- 



MANILA 371 

tion of coins. I then went to the Y. and read until 8, then 
went to the church, getting my supper at a stand on the 
way. I enjoyed an especially fine service. The preacher 
wore a white suit. A large part of the congregation was 
made up of soldiers, officers and their wives. After ser- 
vice I went right across the walled city on Pallicio street 
to my usual lodging. 

MARCH 17. Arose at 6, walked down to the Bridge of 
Spain, then a few blocks to one side where I had break- 
fast, then back to the shed near the bridge where I sat 
down and did some writing and watched the crowd until 
10 when I started for the docks. As I was going to drop 
my letter in the post box, I concluded to go to the post- 
office. While there I thought I might as well ask for mail. 
I did not expect to get any, but was surprised to be 
handed a letter from Detroit. I then went to the boat 
where I hunted up the steward, but no place was ready as 
yet, so I went up to the stern and took a ramble around 
awhile. At 12 I went below, to see what chances were for 
dinner and doing a little investigating I got the disap- 
pointment of my life, although I should have known that 
when a first class ticket cost $180 and second $85 there 
would be a great difference. I had not thought the second 
class accommodations would be so poor. Of course it 
would answer all right but it made me feel a little sore. 
There are about fifty bunks in one room. This is where I 
shall have to sleep. For dinner I just had a dish of maca- 
roni with some bread and butter. There is no deck for 
promenading. After dinner I went down in the pier shed 
and watched for the Indian boy as he said he expected to 
be along at 2. He came and I took him aboard and showed 
him over the ship. There w T e talked until 3 when we 
started. He told me his party was leaving on the Nile 
which will get into San Francisco before us, but we agreed 
that whoever got there first was to meet the other. At 3 :30 
we pulled out slowly. My Indian friend kept waving until 
we were lost to view. This is the first time on my trip that 
any one has seen me off in this manner. 

Going out a little ways we slowly turned around and 



372 SOUTH CHINA SEA 

passed into the bay between two French men-of-war. We 
passed near enough to catch the name of one, the Montcalm. 
I went down below and conversed awhile with a man who 
was going to Yokohama and then went again on deck for 
the fresh air. At 5 went down to supper. This was all 
right, there being plenty of well-cooked food. Afterwards 
went up on deck and stayed until 8, when I went below 
and turned in. 

MAECH 18. I arose at 6 and after a stroll on the up- 
per deck had breakfast at 7. This consisted of chops, 
potato balls, nice biscuits and butter, cornmeal mush and 
milk and some good coffee. From the time I got up till 9 
I was talking to my fellow passenger, also showed him my 
post cards. Then w T ent up to the deck, hunted a shady 
place, wrote and enjoyed the fine air. 

At 10 I went down for a few moments to see the won- 
derful peacock that one of the passengers w r as taking back 
to America. I then went upon deck and stayed till 12, 
most all the time talking to my fellow passenger. It seems 
fine to be traveling on an American ship, although the 
crew, except the officers, are Chinamen. There is even a 
Filipino band. There are only four of us in the second 
class. At 12 we had dinner. 

Afterwards I went up to the deck and wrote and read. 
There must be about two hundred Chinese deck passengers 
besides about a dozen Indians. These are camped both in 
the bow and in the stern. Stayed on deck till 4. Finding 
a shady place, had a couple hours ' siesta ; then went down 
to talk to my friend awhile ; then we both went up on deck 
and promenaded. Just at 5 when we started for supper, 
an alarm of fire was turned in and we stopped to see the 
crew getting life boats ready and lowering them almost to 
the water. This was a fine sight. I may say this was a 
false alarm, it being a fire drill. 

We then went down to supper. Afterwards my friend 
and I had a discussion on matrimony. Afterwards going 
up on deck promenading and talking till 7, when he turned 
in. I sat up on deck till 9 when I went to bed. 



HONGKONG 373 

MARCH 19. I arose at 6, had breakfast; afterwards 
had a long talk with my friend, then went on deck and 
talked and promenaded. It was now windy and quite cool 
and all the officers had shed their white suits. Land is 
now in sight and in a short time the harbor came in view 
and we slowly worked to the anchorage at 10. It was so 
foggy very little of the city conld be seen. Before we 
anchored the boat was filled with hotel touts of every kind. 
My friend left, going to the mainland. At 11 I went ashore 
on a launch to the landing stage. Fronting the water were 
a number of splendid buildings. The postoffice was a 
splendid new brick and stone structure of five stories, next 
the Canadian Pacific Steamship office and several other 
fine buildings. All these buildings had outer covered gal- 
leries running all around the building. In fact most of 
the Hongkong buildings are thus built. 

On landing from the launch the postoffice was right in 
front. I went in and bought some stamps in order to ex- 
change a bill. Then went up the street and got some cards 
and sent them away. Then took a walk along the water 
front until I located a Canton boat and found out the fare 
and time of departure. The man in charge of the ticket 
office was a negro, born in Wyoming. I had quite a talk 
with him, then took a walk through the native streets, some 
of these being not more than eight feet wide and lined 
with four-story buildings. The outer galleries of the up- 
per floor were packed with every kind of household stuffs 
and the ground floor was just a continuous small bazaar of 
some kind. At intervals, all along the way, I saw women 
repairing clothes and men repairing shoes. I had some- 
thing to eat at a stand and then went over to the market 
which is a huge structure filled with all kinds of produce. 
After this I went back to the water front and wandered 
along for a considerable distance. Sat for some time watch- 
ing a number of women loading sampans with some kind 
of mortar. I then went up to the landing stage and into 
the postoffice, where I sat down and did some writing. 
This place is a contrast to Manila, it being quite chilly. 
After stopping here awhile I started out to locate the Sea- 
man's Institute, where I expected to lodge. I walked 



374 HONGKONG 

along the front, passing fine buildings, the Queen's build- 
ing being last. Right next in a fine square containing sev- 
eral grass plots, there are statues of Kings Edward and 
George, and Queens Alexandria and Mary, besides a fine 
monument to Queen Victoria. 

This is a great sitting figure on a huge stone platform 
and covered by a canopy. To one side is the magnificent 
Supreme Court building, built of gray sandstone. The 
outside is entirely surrounded by huge stone pillars sup- 
porting the roof of the gallery. I continued along by a great 
manufacturing barracks and a naval yard. On the corner is 
the Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, and a little further on is 
the Seamen's Institute. Both of these buildings are grand 
large structures. On the board outside the home I no- 
ticed this legend: "Cabins 40c and beds 20c. After no- 
ticing these prices I certainly will not sleep outside here. 
On coming to the institute I went into the reading room 
and read and wrote until 6, when I took a long walk 
farther down the water front and then back by the next 
street. For most of the distance along the latter street 
was filled with eating and other stands. I had supper 
at one of these stands. 

I then stopped in at the Soldiers ' and Sailors ' Home and 
read until 9. There was some kind of a concert going on 
just above me. I then walked down to the Canton 
boat, being accosted by innumerable rickshaw men who 
wanted a fare. I have been surprised at the great num- 
ber of Chinamen dressed in American fashion. During 
my stroll this evening I noticed quite a number of little 
girls carrying a baby on their back. At 9 :30 I reached 
the boat and went aboard. The first class have cabins, 
second have chairs and seats in a long enclosed cabin. 
The third are down in the hold. I chose the second as 
this was cheap enough. Even at that I was the only white 
person in this class. There were probably two hundred 
Chinese men and women. 

All these were fairly well dressed and some of them 
looked like Fifth avenue dudes. There were several peo- 
ple going around selling different articles. At 10 sharp 
we started and shortly after, two young fellows went 



CANTON 375 

through selling tickets and a few moments afterward an- 
other bunch went along and gathered them up. 

MARCH 20. Spent a miserable night and I didn't get 
much sleep. "Went outside several times to see, but the 
river was too wide. About 2 o'clock we ran into a fog 
and had to slow up, just barely moved after that. "We 
were supposed to arrive at Canton at 5. At 6 my fellow 
passengers began to bestir themselves. A boy peddled 
basins of water amongst them while another brought food 
and drink. I promenaded a little and napped till 10 when 
I entered into conversation with a young Scotch engineer. 

At 11 the fog lifted and we moved faster. At one time 
before the fog lifted entirely we had two boats off the bow 
and stern, but by 12 the fog lifted and we forged ahead 
at full speed. It was now an interesting sight. The river 
had narrowed down and was covered with sampans, junks 
and an occasional steamer. Closer to Canton we passed 
great stretches of land just above the level of the water. 
This was planted to rice. At one point was a great nine- 
story pagoda. This had small trees growing upon the top. 
Next we came to the river dwellers' houses built on piles, 
right over the river. As we neared our dock four different 
boats allowed the ship to almost run into them while one 
or two from each boat climbed aboard. And now we come 
to where the shore is lined with thousands of boats on 
which people live. 

Before we landed at a small landing at least fifty boats 
ran up against us. One or two from each climbed aboard. 
The landing stage was a solid crush of people. It was 2 
o'clock before I landed and as the boat was supposed to 
return at 6 I lost no time. Within the block I obtained 
some post cards and a little farther along came to a 
branch postoffice. Here I wrote and posted cards. There 
had been a great fire not long before which had burned 
out a stretch of the best buildings, along the front, and 
they have not cleared away the ruins yet. I went along for 
a couple of miles looking at the thousands of boats; the 
latter part of the way I was going along a canal. At the 
end, I crossed a short bridge to an island which belongs 



376 CANTON 

to the foreign quarter, and it is covered with the legations, 
postoffices, banks and residences of the foreigners. 

There is a fine promenade along the river, also a small 
park. The end of the island is near where the boat tied 
up. I crossed a bridge here and then came across an open 
air barber shop. I determined to have some work done. 
I should have been barbered in Manila. I had a barber 
clip my hair and beard. He also shaved my neck and 
clipped my beard, also forehead and eyebrows, and cut 
the hair in my ears. Maybe there wasn't a crowd. They 
got so thick that several policemen came along and tried 
to keep them moving. The Canton policemen wear a navy 
blue blouse and trousers, peaked cap, and shoes, and carry 
a revolver in a holster. 

I have to admit that I feel less safe in a Chinese crowd 
than any other Eastern people so far. At 6 our boat 
pulled away from the dock. I went aboard at 5 :30 and 
amused myself looking down into the sampans moored 
about, and took note of the different household arrange- 
ments, while watching a large boat passing, being pro- 
pelled by a man in front having a long oar, while the wife 
and mother pulled on a long oar at the stern. Two babies 
were playing on the deck, being tied with ropes to keep 
them from going overboard. On pulling out we took a 
different route and I stayed outside at the stern until 8, 
when it was too dark to see. 

During most of this time I was talking to a young Por- 
tuguese, born in China, and while standing there looked 
back and noticed a man about 100 feet behind looking as 
if the boat had run over him. There were a couple of 
small boats went near but I don't think they saw him. 
I am almost sure he drowned. The young fellow who was 
with me had some supper and gave me a very cordial invi- 
tation to join him, but I had supped on several varieties 
of stuff before leaving. 

After he had eaten we stayed most of the time at the 
stern and conversed until the boat tied up at 12. We 
hadn't talked long after supper before he invited me to 
go home and stay with him until my boat left. Of course 
at first I refused but he kept on insisting claiming I would 



KOWLOON 377 

not bother anyone, etc., until at last I agreed to go. 
Stayed the rest of the night there. His home was at Kow- 
loon, across on the mainland from Hongkong. On getting 
off the boat we raced for the ferry but we were too late, so 
had to take a sampan. It took a half an hour to cross. Two 
men and a woman handled this boat, which had a sail, and 
we had two or three gusts of wind which they took advan- 
tage of. On leaving the boat we took rickshaws for my 
friend's home. This was my first ride in one of these. On 
reaching the house the young fellow called his people. He 
brought down a brother, who let us in. I was introduced, 
then taken into the parlor. A cot and some blankets were 
brought in and I was fixed up for the night. I finally got 
to bed at 1 :30. 

MARCH 21. Within a few minutes after I lay down I 
went to sleep and never woke up until 7, and then a 
whole colony of whistles blowing did the job. Hearing 
some noise in the house I got up and dressed, expecting 
every minute to be routed out. Afterwards I wrote up 
my diary. It was raining pleasantly and I noticed a 
number passing the window. They were all wearing 
umbrella-hats, and rain-coats made of bamboo leaves. 
Just then the brother came down and ordered breakfast for 
me, this consisting of a fine cup of cocoa, two fried eggs, 
some cheese and bread and butter. I ate in solitary state 
in the dining room. 

Just after finishing my friend came down and informed 
me he had spoken to his father who had told him he had 
been somewhat premature in inviting me to the house on 
such short acquaintance, especially as he did not know 
how they were situated in regard to accommodations. I 
felt sorry for the poor kid, as he was almost crying, but 
blamed myself for accepting his invitation. I passed it 
off as well as I could and told him that I was intending 
to go over to Hongkong that morning anyway, and after 
saying good-by started out. 

I stopped in at a place and bought some cards and sent 
them to Detroit, and then went down to the ferry dock 
and after a minute 's wait I got a boat for Hongkong. 



378 HONGKONG 

I wandered around until noon. Had something to eat 
and then went to the Y., where I read until 6. I had sup- 
per and went to the Seamen's Institute where I read 
until 8. Then turned in. 

MAECH 22. Arose at 9. Went to the Soldiers' and 
Sailors' Home, where I read until 11, then down to the 
main part of town where I had some dinner. Then I 
spent the time until 2 strolling along the streets. Got up 
to the Botanical Gardens, then came upon the tramway 
which goes to the top of the mountain. It was raining and 
quite cold. 

At 2 I went back to the Y. Here to my joy I found a 
fire in an open grate and planted myself in front of this 
and read until 6, when I went home, getting some supper 
on the way. I found a fire here, which I enjoyed until 8, 
when I turned in. 

On my rambles I saw a good many people using both 
palanquins and rickshaws. Also saw thirteen men 
hitched up to a great ice wagon, and a number of coolies 
carrying bricks up a high hill. The day w r as cold and wet. 

MARCH 23. On getting up went to the Soldiers' and 
Sailors' Home. Inquired of a soldier the way to the 
Methodist Church. In reply he told me he was going and 
after a few minutes we went along together. 

It was about fifteen minutes' walk, through the Chinese 
section along Queen's road. At 10 the service started and 
before this the small church was filled with the congrega- 
tion, most of these being soldiers and sailors. Wanchai 
is the name of the church. 

We had a very good Easter service. On the way back I 
passed a Joss house. This was a low structure, the front 
being covered with dragons and other grotesque creatures. 

I had dinner at a stand near here. Coming back to 
the Home I found a grate fire and shivered over this until 
3, when I attended a service at a building on the corner. 

I then went back to the Home and hung over the fire 
until 6, when I went out after some supper, then back to 
the fire, staying there until 8, when I went to bed. While 



HONGKONG 379 

I was sitting there the gentleman who was in charge came 
and sat down beside me and began asking me questions 
about my business. 

At last noticing my shabby appearance he must have 
taken it for granted I was up against it and offered to 
supply me with clothing, but I told him that I had money 
and could get along all right. 

MARCH 24. On getting up, there being no fire in the 
house, I went to the Sailors' Home. No fire there. I read 
until 10, when I was so cold I could not keep my teeth 
from chattering. 

In desperation I got out and started to climb the moun- 
tain, back of the town, known as Victoria Peak, and spent 
the time until 1 going up and down. 

It is certainly a grand climb. The top is about 2,000 
feet above the sea. A winding concrete path leads up. 
After going up a few hundred feet a person could easily 
believe that he was in the wildest part of the mountains if 
it was not for the path. 

And then what a wonderful view was obtained of the 
city and harbor. The view from the top is superb. On one 
side desolate mountains reaching to the sea. The other, 
the city, harbor, Kowloon and the mountains of the main- 
land. 

Although a drizzly rain was falling a fairly good view 
was obtained. It was so cold that I did not feel tired after 
all this climbing. 

I went up one way and came down another. There is a 
cable line which leads nearly to the top. This I would 
have taken if it had been warmer. 

There are buildings all the way up and houses are now 
being built on the very top. And all materials are carried 
up by coolies. Coming down I met twenty-five women 
carrying sand. They carried two baskets at either end of 
a pole. They all had two loads. Would carry one load 
for a short distance, then go back after the other. 

I lifted one of these baskets and would say that it 
weighed at least 100 pounds. Two of these would be a 
load of 200. Just think of a woman carrying that much 
up a hill. 



380 HONGKONG 

On gaining the bottom I had some dinner and then went 
to the Y., where I was lucky enough to find a fire. Here 
I stayed until 6, reading and conversing with a couple of 
Canadians. Then went to the Home, getting my supper 
on the way. As there was a good fire there I stayed in the 
office reading until 8, when I w T ent to bed. 

MARCH 25. Arose at 8 and went downtown to Cook ? s 
office and had some money changed, and then did some 
more business, afterwards going to the Y. M. C. A., where 
I obtained a few old magazines. 

I then went down to the dock where I waited till 10 :30 
when I went out to the ship. On arriving, found the ship 
loaded. The Monday paper stated that the Mongolia was 
taking out the largest number of passengers ever taken 
out by one of their boats. 

I had been foolish enough to leave my overcoat behind. 
In this were all the post cards I had collected since leav- 
ing Eome. 

I found my friend from Manila, two Americans, one 
Englishman and a Frenchman. They made such a holler 
about staying in the same room with the Chinese that the 
steward fixed up another cabin for us. This contained 
twenty-four bunks, and as we were only seven, there was 
plenty of room. The Frenchman is married to a Jap, and 
his wife camped in there, too. 

At 1 we dined and finally at 2 weighed anchor and 
started for Shanghai. I stayed on deck for an hour and 
then went below and talked till 6, when we had supper. 
After that I wrote till 8, when I turned in. 

The two Americans are going right through to San Fran- 
cisco, so I will not be lonesome. 

MARCH 26. Arose at 6, went up on deck, but only 
stayed a few minutes, as it was too cold. Came down and 
walked up and down for awhile, then talked till 8, when 
we had breakfast. I then wrote up my diary. 

It was very cold, and the only way to keep warm was 
to go to bed and cover up. This I did, staying there till 
noon. After dinner I took a constitutional along the cor- 



WOO CHANG 381 

ridor, and then got under the covers again, and read and 
talked till 5, when we had supper, afterwards rolled into 
my bunk and talked till after 9, when I undressed and 
went to bed. 

MARCH 27. Arose at 6, went aft and looked at the 
log, and then strolled up and down till 7, when we had 
breakfast. At 8 I started writing my Detroit letter and 
kept at it till 11, when I had to desist as the steward wanted 
to get the table ready for dinner. In the meantime the 
sun had come out and warmed everything up. I went up 
and talked and enjoyed the sunshine till 12, when we had 
dinner. I then went up on deck and wrote and sunned 
myself till nearly 1. I continued writing my letter till 
4, then after a short constitutional on deck I wrote till 5, 
when we had supper. Afterwards we talked till 8, when 
we were startled by the boat stopping and on investigating 
found that she had to stop to wait for the flood tide. All 
afternoon we were among islands and the water was yellow 
on account of the huge volume being poured into the sea 
by the Yang-tse-Kiang river. At 9 I went to bed. 

MAECH 28. At 1 the boat started up once more and 
at 5 :30 we reached the mouth of the river and anchored 
off Woo Chang. At 6 I got up and strolled along the deck 
until 7, when we had breakfast. In the meanwhile two 
small steamers had come alongside to take passengers and 
baggage to Shanghai, which is fifteen miles up the river. 
At 9 everything was aboard and we started. 

While waiting I had gone aft of the ship and found a 
regular bazaar. At least fifty Chinamen had something or 
other to sell. I amused myself watching the antics of an 
old man who was giving a ventriloquist performance for 
the benefit of a crowd of first class passengers, who were 
looking on from the upper deck. Although the air was a 
little chilly, the sun was shining and we had a fine trip. 
The river was full of boats of all kinds. 

On land were quite a number of large factories of some 
kind. At 10 we came to a large city and it appeared to 
be a solid mass of factories, warehouses and steamships all 



382 SHANGHAI 

the way in. Among a number of other fine ships we 
passed two small American cruisers. Our boat tied up at 
the dock at 10 :30. 

The street running along the water is the Bund. The 
side facing the river is lined with grand buildings — banks, 
stores, hotels, etc. I went along this a couple of blocks, 
then turned into a street called Canton road. I followed 
this for more than two miles where it ended. There was 
a tram line most of the way and the first three or four 
blocks it was lined with great stores and warehouses. After 
this it was one continuous bazaar. 

At intervals I struck off to a side street, followed it for 
a few blocks and then back again to the next street. These 
side streets were no more than eight feet wide and were 
nearly filled with a solid mass of people. In these streets 
I saw almost every industry being carried on. I had 
something to eat at one of the stalls. 

Finally I came to the end of the street and here was a 
small canal and on the other side was the race course, a 
golf and games ground. The canal was filled with small 
junks, which as the tide was out, were resting on the bot- 
tom. These were manned by farmers and were loaded with 
all kinds of country produce. I followed this canal about 
half a mile to Nanking road. 

At one place three boats were being loaded with mud 
from the bottom of the canal. Nanking road is a fine 
asphalt-paved avenue. Here I found some post cards, also 
located a postoffice. I then finished a letter I was writing 
and wrote on some of the cards and posted the outfit. 

After this I boarded a car and took a long ride to the 
end of the line. "We followed Nanking into Babbling 
"Wells road, then Carter avenue, passing a procession of 
splendid stores, mansions, grounds, etc. At the end of 
the line is a small park. I spent a few minutes resting 
here, as it was now quite hot, then I came back by car to 
the race course, and slowly wandered along from there 
until I came to the Bund. I then went along to a small 
park on the front, stayed here some time observing the 
traffic, both on the street and water. 

I saw all classes of Chinese from the beggar up. The 



SHANGHAI 383 

wealthy people wear grand silk coats trimmed with fur 
and some of the poorest were in rags, either barefooted or 
wearing sandals made out of straw. For the first time I 
saw a new vehicle here — a wheelbarrow. This had a high 
wheel and there was room for a person at each side. 

After this I went down to the dock and our boat was 
there loading up. Just as I arrived on the scene a com- 
pany of boy scouts marched by. It seemed strange to see 
them in this country. A few minutes before we started 
I noticed a few people in a great state of excitement. It 
seemed that one of their members had disappeared. As 
we pulled away at 5 they were conversing with the agent 
in regard to hunting her up. 

Three members of our party had gone down to Shang- 
hai and I found them aboard all right. It seems good to 
be going back home. We arrived alongside at 6 :30 and I 
hustled to see if we could get something to eat, and asking 
the steward was told that supper would be sent in for 
those who had been away. After awhile I went out and 
watched them loading baggage. This is an interesting 
sight. A great sling made of steel wire is used. At 8 
we had supper. We had lost our Cuban friend, and taken 
on a chief petty officer in his place. He was making an 
awful holler about the accommodation. I can see where 
we will have a bear for company. I conversed with some 
of the others until 9, when I turned in. 

MAECH 29. I was awakened by the noise of 
the anchor being hauled up. On looking at my 
watch, when we started, I saw it was 1 o'clock. 
I arose at 6. The sailor was growling from that time on. 
At the breakfast table he kept it up. After breakfast I 
went on the after deck to look at the log, but did not stay 
as it was too cold. Walked up and down the corridor for 
an hour and then went to my room, and after doing some 
sewing, lay down in my bunk and read until dinner, it 
being too cold to do anything else. After dinner there 
was another hour's constitutional, when I again crawled 
into my bunk and read and talked until 5, when we had 
supper. In the meanwhile our sailor friend hunted up 



384 NAGASAKI 

the captain, and made such a holler that a place in the 
cabin was hunted up for him. After supper I took an- 
other walk. Ran across a couple of fine looking girls, 
dressed in European clothes. They were Koreans, the first 
Koreans I have seen. On speaking about it I found out 
also that our steward is a Korean. After my walk I went 
to the room and conversed until 8, when being nearly 
frozen I went to bed. 

MARCH 30. Arose at 6. The time moved ahead one 
hour. Just had time to wash when breakfast was ready. 
After breakfast spent my usual hour promenading and 
then went back to the room. We expect to be at Nagasaki 
shortly and are going to lose our little Japanese lady and 
her husband here. "We will certainly miss them. At 9 
land was sighted and we steamed slowly in directly toward 
a mountain. Away to the right we could see the moun- 
tainous island where great fortifications are being built. 
As we came in closer it could be seen that every avail- 
able foot of these hills was terraced and under cultivation. 
At 10 we were all lined up for the Japanese officials. 
Every man, woman and child aboard had to be examined. 
Our little Jap lady made a swell appearance in a beautiful 
grey silk kimono with dark stripes. Over this was a drab 
silk mantle with flowing sleeves. Her hair was done up 
on top of her head, stuck full of gilt pins. She wore 
white cotton stockings with a division for the big toe. A 
pair of wooden shoes, just the soles held by a strap, slipped 
between the big toe and the others, completed the out- 
fit. At 10:30 we stopped for the doctor, who came aboard 
and looked us over, and at 11 the yellow flag came down 
and we started up and slowly wormed our way in and out. 
One of the quartermasters kept dropping the lead. The 
channel we were going through was about a half mile 
wide with great hills on either side, most of these being 
covered with vegetation. At 11 :30 we passed a huge ship 
building plant, and just afterwards saw a great liner, 
which was on the stocks, launch into the water. This was 
a grand sight. Just after this barges loaded with coal, and 
manned by men and women, gathered on both' sides of the 



NAGASAKI 385 

ship, and at least fifty men who trimmed in the hold came 
aboard. The women were dressed in short skirts and 
jackets, and had a fancy colored handkerchief tied over 
their heads to keep the dust out of their hair. At 12 we 
anchored and were called down to dinner. On coming 
up found they were busy coaling. This was a wonderful 
sight. They had steps tied all the way up from the 
barge to the deck and used a small basket holding about 
twenty-five pounds. These were passed up from hand to 
hand with extraordinary quickness. The baskets were 
dumped into a large tub and when filled was carried by 
a couple of small girls to the hold and dumped. At 2 I 
went ashore in a launch. While enroute I located the post- 
office and the first thing I did was to hunt it up. There 
was a crowd ahead of me, but I managed to connect after 
a few minutes' wait. From the ship it looked as if the 
hills came right down to the water and there was no room 
for much of the town. There are only a few buildings 
of any great size, but there are plenty of small ones. On 
account of the hills there are no motor or tram cars, 
nothing but rickshaws. After getting stamps I started 
out. The streets run in every direction. On going a few 
blocks I bought some post cards, then went on again. 
Most of the business men dress in European fashion, but 
the native costume for the men and women is a kimono of 
some kind. The babies are carried on the back. Con- 
tinuing a little farther I came to a succession of stair- 
ways leading up to the top of the hill. Up here a place 
about 200 feet square had been leveled off. At one side 
were fifty paper umbrellas, which had just been freshly 
painted and were drying in the sun. In the center were 
a number of boys flying kites. 

At the edge where I could overlook the town and harbor 
I sat dow y n on a log and did some writing and rubbering. 
From here a splendid view was obtained. No streets could 
be seen. It looked like a solid mass of houses. I left here 
and kept going up until I came to a kind of a cemetery. 
This was enclosed and there were a number of monuments 
there. 

I went down a little and started up the highest peak of 



386 NAGASAKI 

them all. I finally got by the houses and passed at least 
a hundred of small terraced gardens before I finally 
landed at the top where there is an observatory. All the 
way along at any open place, of any size, were boys fly- 
ing kites. I stopped at one of these places to help a young 
fellow get his kite out of a tree. 

I saw the interior of hundreds of houses — a raised plat- 
form in the center covered with mats. 

On gaining the top I found a couple of first class pas- 
sengers, one of whom I had passed the time of day with 
before. Had a few minutes' conversation, then they left 
and I afterwards sat down on a flat stone and wrote and 
enjoyed the grand view. 

The weather was just right. The sun was shining bright- 
ly, but the breeze tempered the heat. I went down a 
different way, passed a few more gardens and six small 
houses, afterwards a number of better class residences, 
among them a consulate. Just as I got down to the level 
I came upon an open space. Here a couple of young fel- 
lows were playing a game like tennis, only they used a 
paddle and no net. Also three men were splitting wood. 
The axe was a large wedge, but they did the business all 
right. I then went along to the wharf where I met one 
of the passengers and he and I went to the postoffice, where 
I wrote some cards and sent them away. Then took a walk 
along the shore and then to the launch. Finding it did 
not leave for some time I made another excursion to a 
church I had noticed on the hill. After a couple of false 
turns I found the right road. The church proved to be 
of the Eoman Catholic persuasion. There was a service 
going on so did not go in. On the outside there must have 
been 100 pairs of sandals. After this I went back to the 
launch and then on to the ship, just getting there in time 
for supper. As soon as I finished I hustled up on deck to 
see the coal passers. This was one of the most inter- 
esting sights I had ever seen. The swiftness with which 
the baskets were moved was almost incredible. I timed 
one string and found sixty-two were emptied in one 
minute. There were twenty-six crews in all, thirteen on 
either side of the boat. Twenty dumped directly into the 



INLAND SEA OF JAPAN 387 

hold, the others dumped their baskets in tubs. These were 
carried to the hold. The coal tub weighed 200 pounds. A 
couple of girls about ten years old carried them back and 
forth. It was such a fascinating sight I could not get away 
and stayed on deck with one of my roommates until 11, 
when it was all over. I then went to bed. 

MARCH 31. I arose at 6:30 and just had time to 
wash before we had breakfast at 7, then after waiting a 
little went up on deck. At 8 we hoisted the anchor and 
turned around and headed for Kobe. We were directly 
across from the shipbuilding yard and a company of 
women were driving piles. There were about thirty, fif- 
teen on each side, and each one pulled on the rope attached 
to the main rope which was tied to the driver. This they 
worked like a trip hammer. It was cloudy when I came 
on deck but it had cleared off by this time. Shortly after 
we started I went to the foredeck. 

At 9 we met the Persia, the smallest boat of this line, 
coming in. She was just a day late. At 10, getting tired, 
I went below and turned into my bunk and read until din- 
ner. All this time we were in sight of land. After 
dinner I went up on deck. The sun was obscured but it 
was not cool. The view was grand — mountains on either 
side. We were then entering a body of water known as 
the Inland Sea of Japan, as it belongs to the Japanese. 
The wind started to blow and, getting cool on the foredeck, 
I went aft and stayed until 2. The Chinamen were carry- 
ing on a number of gambling games. At 2 I went below 
and spent a couple of hours on a letter to Detroit, then 
went up on deck just in time to see another large ship. 
It was cloudy and the wind quite cool but I walked up 
and down the deck until I was out of breath and thor- 
oughly warmed up. Land could be seen on both sides. I 
then conversed with one of my roommates until I went 
down to supper at 5. Read after supper, went back on 
the foredeck and stayed until 8, when it was too dark to 
see. First we passed the mouths of two small harbors, 
then making a short turn to port were in what seemed 
like a river and there were cities on either side. The 



388 KOBE 

channel was full of junks, sampans and steamers. A 
Russian ship had sunk in shallow water and her two 
smokestacks and the upper works were out of the water. 
After passing the cities the channel was so very narrow 
at times that we could almost reach out and touch land. 
At 8 I went down and turned in. 

APRIL 1. Just got up in time for breakfast, then 
went to the after deck where I promenaded till 8. We 
were then passing small towns. I went down and spent 
the time until 9 on my Detroit letter. Then I went on the 
afterdeck, where the sun was shining brightly. It was 
warm out of the wind and the water was like a pond. 
Land was close on the port side. We passed a small town 
and a train was seen entering this place. The water between 
us and the shore was almost covered with junks of all 
sizes. 

At 10 :30 we came to the edge of Kobe. The smoke- 
stacks show that this is a great manufacturing town. At 
11 we anchored and had a lineup once more for the doctor. 
We then moved down again and finally anchored at 12. 
As soon as the doctor finished we went down to an early 
dinner. All of our crowd went ashore about 12 :30. As 
soon as I landed I went ahead until I came to a place 
where I bought some cards. I then wrote and posted 
some of them to Detroit. Then went along this street, 
which was lined with small bazaars, until I came to a 
fine wide street leading back toward the hill and this I 
followed until I came to a great hill, and traveled up 
an almost precipitous slope to the top. One thousand 
feet above the water the top is level and has an area of a 
couple of acres. Seats are scattered around and there 
are a number of games for children. At the top is a 
monument about fifty feet high, crowned by a small house 
and a couple of cannon. Back of this are some refresh- 
ment stands. There was another long climb to the top 
of the mountain. The path is sandy and very steep and 
slippery and is hard to navigate. The top of the moun- 
tain is 1,800 feet above the sea level and a magnificent 
view is obtained. The whole length of the town and har- 



KOBE 389 

bor can be seen. Behind is an almost precipitous drop 
into a narrow field and above on the sides and at the back 
are other great peaks, all being covered with a thin growth 
of spruce. As the temperature was just right it was hard 
for me to draw myself away. On getting down I fol- 
lowed a street running parallel with the mountain for 
more than a mile, then turned down toward the dock, 
then along to our launch dock. On the way I passed a 
temple. This was in an enclosure and consisted of sev- 
eral small buildings built of brick and stone. The roof 
was peaked and covered with black tile. At each end 
was a vari-colored fish, and at the center a blue glass 
ball. On the other side of the entrance of the main build- 
ing was a great dragon and the wall was covered with fan- 
tastic paintings. 

Reaching the launch dock I went on a couple of blocks 
till I came to the tram line. This I followed for nearly 
a mile, then turned off again toward the docks. The 
name of the last street is Kyomachi. Scattered along this 
are a number of splendid buildings — banks, offices, stores, 
etc. At the docks I ran into a fine park which started at 
the launch dock. I walked through this to the dock. 
This street is called Kagan Dori, and on the street facing 
the water are the great hotels and postoffice, a lot of 
very fine buildings. I stopped to watch a number of 
wrestling matches in the park. I timed myself to get 
back to the launch just before it started at 5. I went 
aboard and had supper and afterwards went on deck and 
watched the cargo loaded until 6 :30, when I went ashore 
in another launch. Spent a little over an hour walking 
up one side and down the other of the bazaar street. 
There w r ere no street lights, just small gas and electric 
lights over the stores. It was certainly a wonderful sight 
— every imaginable article for sale, and especially curios 
of every kind, and not the least interesting sight were the 
people. Just at the last I ran into a huge place like a 
market which, besides a number of stands, contained a 
couple of moving, picture shows. At 8 T went aboard 
and afterwards turned in. 



390 YOKOHAMA 

APEIL 2. Arose at 6. We were just starting for 
Yokohama, 350 miles away. It was a dull cloudy morning. 
As soon as we got into the open I promenaded across the 
upper deck until 7 when we had breakfast. The old 
sailor and another of our passengers kicked at the grub. 
After breakfast I went up on deck, but it was cloudy and 
chilly, so didn't stay long, but went down and perched 
up in my berth beside the port and read until 9. After 
dinner I spent the time until 3 on my Detroit letter and 
then went up on deck for a few minutes, but didn't stay 
as the wind nearly blew me over. Went down to my 
bunk and read till 5, when we had supper. 

Afterwards I went down the corridor near the engine 
room and slowly promenaded until 7 when I took a hot 
salt water bath and went to bed. The wind was now 
blowing a hurricane. 

APRIL 3. Arose at 6. Every time I awakened during 
the night I could hear the wind howl and as it was dead 
ahead it kept us back. We should have reached Yoko- 
hama before this. After breakfast as I was not well and 
it was quite cold I stayed in my berth reading until 10 
when the steward routed me out for muster. We all 
lined up on deck as usual. After the ship anchored and 
the doctor went through the rounds, just as they were fin- 
ishing the Korea of this line passed on the way to Kobe. 
It was 11 before we anchored in the inner harbor. Just 
afterwards we had dinner and at 12 went ashore. 

There were a couple of fine buildings belonging to the 
customs at this place. I went along past a couple of 
grand buildings and went on a couple of blocks farther 
when I came to a large park. Here I stayed for a long 
time watching the people. After this I hunted up a sta- 
tion as I wanted to find out about trains for Tokio. Here 
I ran across a paper giving an account of the death of 
J. P. Morgan. I stayed a while watching the crowd and 
trains and then went up one street and down another, 
part of the time following a canal. I passed by a small 
mission where there were books for sale. I bought a testa- 
ment and after I had gone a few blocks a young Japanese 



YOKOHAMA 391 

came after me and handed back my money and took my 
address. I stopped in another place and bought some 
clothes and at another got a pair of Jap sandals. I kept 
wandering around until it was time to head for the launch. 
On the way ran into a funeral procession. There must 
have been two hundred people. If there was a coffin it 
was probably inside what looked like a small wooden 
house. This was carried on staves by people. At 5 the 
launch started for the ship and I went aboard. After 
supper we all went down to the launch and went ashore 
again. As soon as I landed I started out and wandered 
up one street and down another, just getting back to the 
dock in time for the 8 o'clock boat. I was on three of 
the principal bazaar streets. On all three streets most 
of the buildings were usually only two stories, built of 
wood, and had peaked roofs facing the street. These 
were shingled with tiles. The streets were a wonderful 
sight and I could easily spend a week wandering through. 

I stopped at one place and bought something to use for 
a scarf on the voyage. I almost forgot to mention one 
of the main sights we saw, and that was a gang of 
women driving piles for the foundation of a building. 
There were fifteen on either side of a frame. Each had 
hold of a rope and one woman on either side acted as a 
leader. They would dance a little jig, give a signal, and 
every one would pull, singing all the time. At 9 I went 
to the ship and turned in. 

APRIL 4. Arose at 6 and walked the deck until 
breakfast time. After breakfast read until 8, when I 
went ashore on a launch. On landing I hustled for the 
station where I procured a ticket for Tokio and after a 
few minutes the train started at 9. 

Of course, I bought a third class ticket and I was the 
only white person in a whole car filled with Japs. We 
passed several towns on the way. Took forty minutes to 
run the thirty miles. After finding out the time of re- 
turning trains I sallied forth. 

Outside the station was a great square. To the left 
was a tram line running on Ginza, the main business 



392 TOKIO 

street of the city. This is a fine wide avenue, with a side- 
walk on either side fifty feet wide, with trees planted at 
the edge. 

The street is lined with stores of a better class, some 
being quite large structures. I passed the home of the 
Methodist Publishing Co., also headquarters of the Sal- 
vation Army. 

Looking down a side street I saw a grand building 
which I took to be a temple of some kind, but on investi- 
gation found it was the headquarters of a telephone com- 
pany. It was certainly a noble building, built of white 
pressed brick and grey sandstone, about 300 to 200 feet. 
It was three stories high. 

On top in the center is a pagoda tower. A side street 
one side of which backs on the canal is entirely given 
over to small furniture factories. I sat down on a stone 
at the bank of the canal across from this fine building 
and did some writing, then watched a man and woman 
unloading sand from a small barge. 

While I was writing two young Japs came along and 
rubbered. Going back to the main street I passed a 
number of lumber yards containing thousands of bunches 
of bamboos of all sizes. 

In rapid succession I came upon a couple of funerals. 
The first was headed by about fifty men carrying plants 
and great bunches of artificial flowers, then eight bearers 
carrying a small house containing a coffin. Next were 
twenty-five mourners wearing funny-looking matting hats. 
Bringing up the rear were the relatives in rickshaws, and 
last of all was a fine-looking gentleman dressed in a frock 
suit and wearing a silk hat. 

I kept along this street, branching off from time to 
time. At last I came to what looked like a skyscraper 
in course of erection, there being six floors, all steel work. 
The outside was entirely enclosed by matting and a num- 
ber of Japs were rigging the scaffolding. I turned off 
here and passed several splendid buildings. One was a 
grand department store and the others were government 
buildings. 

A little further on I crossed under an electric elevated 



TOKIO 393 

railway and a block to one side was a splendid building 
in course of erection. This was about 1,500 feet long by 
about 300 feet wide. It was four stories high, built of 
red pressed brick and sandstone, and about a quarter of 
the top was covered by a huge dome. 

I passed through the construction yaxd which con- 
tained a town of buildings. There were tracks running 
in every direction for the conveyance of material. 

At the end I came out upon a grand avenue, very wide 
and well paved, and for several blocks lined on either 
side with fine modern buildings. Most of them w T ere built 
of red pressed brick with stone trimming. Among others 
were the New T York Life and Equitable Life of New York, 
the two great Japanese steamship companies' office, and 
another huge government building. 

This street ended at the canal and running along this 
was another splendid avenue. On the opposite side of 
the canal was a wall about eight feet above the water. 
This enclosed a tract of land of probably 200 acres. It 
looked like a common cut up by gravel drives running all 
over it in every direction. 

There was a hill behind and on this an old pagoda 
castle. Just as I came to the park and I was leaning 
against the fence resting a few minutes, a young Jap 
came up to me and wanted to know if I spoke English. 
Upon my replying in the affirmative he wanted to know if 
he could be of any assistance, explaining that he was not 
a guide, not looking for money, but was a student from 
Kobe, just being there on a holiday. 

We afterwards went into the park together. It was 
then 1 :30. He asked me if I had had dinner yet. I said 
I had been a little under the weather and did not feel 
like eating. He insisted as a special favor that I go with 
him to a tea house and have lunch. On his assuring me 
that he would not pay much more than twenty-five cents, 
our money, for both of us, I agreed, and we walked back 
toward the main street. On the way we passed the Grand 
Imperial Theatre. This was a splendid building, built 
of sandstone. On reaching the main street we soon lo- 
cated a restaurant and we went in. Had to remove our 



394 TOKIO 

shoes and left them outside. Were then shown into a 
little private room having a sliding door. This room was 
about ten feet square and had matting on the floor. In 
the center was a low table and we were given cushions to 
sit on. 

In a minute a girl came in and after bowing to the floor 
a couple of times, handed a menu card to the young Jap. 
After he ordered we talked until the feed came. This 
consisted of a small pot of tea, a pot of rice and bowl 
each of curry and a plate each of baked fish. 

"We were both given chopsticks but I could do nothing 
with them, so a knife and fork were brought in. It all 
tasted good and I made a fine meal. 

After eating the Jap and I strolled and talked until 
I had to take the train at 5. He was a splendid fellow. 
He told me he was twenty years old, the second son in a 
wealthy family. He expected to graduate from college 
in two years, then serve one year as a soldier, then go 
to the States for a year and afterwards go into business. 
He told me that if he were living ten years from now 
that probably his name would be known a few miles from 
his home. 

I took his name and address and promised, nothing 
happening, to write him a card from Detroit. While 
strolling we came upon another grand building. This 
was the Imperial Museum, one of the finest buildings of 
them all. It had a frontage of 500 feet and a depth of 
300, and was built of stone. The entire front was a num- 
ber of fine columns. On top was a great dome. At last 
we had to say good-bye and I went aboard the train. 
Coming up I was in a car that had end doors, seats for 
two on one side, and a long seat against the wall. The 
seats were covered. 

Coming back the car was like the English ones — doors 
all along the side and seats across. It only took forty 
minutes to go to Tokio and eighty to go back. 

This was on account of stopping at every station. 
Wherever there was a bit of land not used for building 
purposes this was planted in something or other. 

It was 6 when I arrived and I hustled for the launch, 



YOKOHAMA 395 

leaving for the ship at 6 :30. On going aboard went below 
and I was given some supper. I spent the time until 9 
writing and talking, then turned in. 

APEIL 5. Arose at 6 :30. After my ablutions I talked 
till breakfast, after which I went up on deck, going ashore 
at 8. I wandered around a couple of bazaar streets and 
I kept on till I came to steps leading up to a Shinto 
temple. This is called "The Temple of One Hundred 
Steps" on account of there being 100 steps leading up 
to it. At the foot was a small pool of water and this was 
nearly filled with mud-turtles. A board led out to the 
center, and I noticed a number of people going out. I do 
not know if this had any religious significance. On mount- 
ing the steps I found the temple was a low, narrow, long 
structure built of heavy timbers and lumber. Outside 
was a covered platform. Suspended from the ceiling 
was a gong and to this were attached two heavy ropes. 
Worshipers would come to this, throw a piece of money 
into a box, bow a few times, hammer the gong, say a 
prayer and depart. 

There were a number of smaller shrines scattered 
around and at the very top of the hill was an open temple, 
like a shed, built of wood, supported by eight great posts. 
All around w T ere small houses belonging to the priests. I 
stayed here for quite awhile, and then went down by the 
docks, then"*up by the fine buildings, hotels, banks, offices, 
etc. At last I bid farewell to Japan and went aboard the 
launch and to the ship at 11 :30. 

Had dinner on going aboard and then went up on deck, 
where I watched the last operations of taking on trunks, 
etc., getting ready to sail. At 2 we were mustered for 
the doctor and at 3 sharp started on our long trip to Hono- 
lulu. I stayed on deck till we passed out into the open 
sea, when I went below and wrote and read until 5, when 
we had supper. I then read for awhile and then borrow- 
ing a pair of trousers from one of the fellows I did some 
laundry work. Afterwards read till 8 :30 when I turned 
in. At this time the wind was blowing a hurricane. 

In all the four cities visited in Japan, I took particular 



396 PACIFIC OCEAN 

pains to observe dress and costumes, and I found the na- 
tional costume to be a kind of kimono for both male and 
female. They use several kinds of sandals. The kind 
mostly used are made of wood, with two narrow cross- 
pieces on the bottom. They wear stockings having a sep- 
arate compartment for the great toe, and on top of the 
sandal is a looped strap which is thrust between the toes. 
The women do not wear hats, the hair being beautifully 
coiffured, piled up on top of the head. Most of the men 
go bareheaded — a few wear a cap or European hat. The 
rickshaw is the principal vehicle used by all classes. Even 
in Tokio, where the streets are wide and well paved, there 
are very few carriages or autos. The rickshaw men dress 
in short, tight trousers and loose blouses, long stockings, 
sandals and a small white, black or brown umbrella hat. 
The women and men, too, carry babies on their backs. 
The boys and girls are miniatures of their parents as to 
dress. When friends meet they bow almost to the ground 
and this is continued until they pass. On going into a 
store the clerks keep up a continual bowing till you leave. 
As a people I like what I have seen of them. The police 
in each city wore blue suits, shoes and a plain peaked cap 
and carried a sword. Nothing bizarre-looking about them. 

APRIL 6. I arose at 6 :30. We had a very stormy 
night, water dashing up to the port above my head, and 
the wind is still raging. 

This morning one more was added to our company, an 
East Indian who is an American citizen and spent many 
years in Alaska. 

After a wash I wrote until breakfast, then spent a few 
minutes in writing, and as I was doing so several China- 
men and Koreans were singing gospel songs just outside 
our cabin. After this I went on deck and spent an hour 
promenading, and another hour talking to an old sailor. 
Although it was very windy, water coming up to the 
deck, yet it was warmer than at any time since we left 
Hongkong. I then went down to my berth and read until 
dinner, afterwards spending some time on deck. Then to 
my berth once more, where I read till supper. After 



PACIFIC OCEAN 397 

supper I got up in a vacant berth and talked until I went 
to bed. 

APRIL 7. Eose at 6. The gale had kept up all night. 
Whenever I awakened I heard the water splashing against 
the port. 

After breakfast went up on deck and promenaded, then 
wrote until 3, then went above and promenaded and talked 
till 4. The wind was worse, the spray coming on the deck 
at times. Went down and wrote until supper at 5, after- 
wards writing and talking until 8, when I turned in. Just 
before doing so, went up on deck and saw the grand-looking 
waves which w T ere now coming over the side. 

APRIL 8. Rose at 6. We had a terrible night. The 
big ship groaned and creaked and the w T ater was con- 
tinually dashing against the ports, the w T ind coming from 
our side of the vessel. The old ocean does not look very 
pacific this morning. After breakfast I went to the after- 
deck, where it was not so windy, and promenaded for an 
hour; also took a look at the log. I meant to keep track 
from Yokohama, but forgot to do so. Then went back to 
the cabin where I figured until 11 ; I am getting 
everything figured out in reference to my trip. 
Then went back to the afterdeck, staying until 12, when 
we had dinner. Afterwards wrote and figured until 4, 
when I took a trip along our deck. There are now about 
five hundred Chinamen, Japs and Filipinos, and a few 
Russians packed in like sardines. Among the Chinese 
there w r ere several games going on. I looked around until 
6, afterwards going back to the afterdeck to read the log, 
and stayed for an hour talking to one of the engineers. 
I then went down and watched a bunch of the Filipinos 
giving a performance until 8, when I turned in. 

APRIL 9. Rose at 6 just in time for breakfast. On 
account of the gale the boat rocked a little during the 
night. Right after breakfast I went back on the after- 
deck, looked at the log, and then spent an hour prome- 
nading, the wind not being quite so strong here. 



398 PACIFIC OCEAN 

After this, there being nothing else to do, I went to 
my berth and sat by the port and read until dinner. After 
dinner went at it again until 4, then promenaded an hour 
between decks. Just before I went to supper a lady, a 
first class passenger, came along and asked me to direct 
her to the Chinese women's quarters, and this I did. 
After supper took a walk until 8, when I went to bed. 

APRIL 10. Arose at 6, promenaded between decks 
until breakfast. The gale was worse last night and the 
boat pitched and groaned all night. 

After breakfast I went aft to look at the log. As it 
was raining I didn't stay, but came back to the cabin and 
read until dinner time. 

The wind had got worse and worse, so after a short 
promenade I crawled up into my berth and stayed there 
until bedtime, not feeling as fine as I might. I ate no 
supper. I was mighty near being sick, but managed to 
pull through. At 9 I disrobed and went to bed. 

APRIL 11. Arose just in time for breakfast. I didn't 
eat much, not feeling as well as usual. After breakfast 
went back to the afterdeck, looked at the log and prome- 
naded a little. The wind blew worse than ever all night. 

It was just a year ago today since I left Detroit. I 
spent the time until noon reading. 

After dinner I went out on deck and stayed prome- 
nading and admiring the sea view and the other attrac- 
tions. The sun was nice and warm and the wind had mod- 
erated considerably. 

At 2 I went below and spent a couple of hours on my 
Honolulu letter to Detroit, then read until 5, when I 
had supper. After supper went aft and promenaded 
until 8. 

Eleven of the Chinese crew had games of some kind 
together and a good many of the passengers lost their 
money. 

Among the crowd of deck passengers were three Rus- 
sian families. Each family had a small child a few 
years old and it was fun to watch them toddling along 
getting into mischief. 



PACIFIC OCEAN 399 

At 8 I went down to the cabin where I talked until 9, 
when I turned in. 

APRIL 11. No. 2. Arose just in time for breakfast. 
Some time in the early night we crossed the 180th degree of 
longitude and dropped back a day. 

The wind wore up into a gale shortly after I went to 
bed, and at 2 I was awakened by the fog whistle, which 
continued to blow for about an hour. 

After breakfast I went back to the afterdeck and ex- 
amined the log. "We had just made 310 knots in the last 
twenty-four hours. I then promenaded for a while and 
read until 9, when I went to the cabin and spent two 
hours on my Detroit letter. Then I went up on deck to 
bask in the sunshine until dinner. 

After dinner read and talked until supper time, after 
which I went back to the afterdeck, promenaded a while, 
then had a short talk with a gentleman I met at Nagasaki. 

After this a little lady, whom I took for a missionary, 
sized me up for a heathen, handed out a bunch of papers 
and asked a few questions. 

There being several Jap women near by who were sing- 
ing, she joined them and they sang several gospel hymns 
together. Before they finished a number of the first class 
joined in, among them a bishop who has been on the boat 
since we left Manila. 

At 8 I went below and talked until 9, when I turned in. 

APRIL 12. Arose just in time for breakfast. After 
breakfast went aft to look at the log. We had done a 
little better than 320 knots in the last twenty-four hours. 
I then went back to the cabin and wrote and read until 
noon. Was up on deck part of the time. The crew is 
busy painting everything. At 10 a crew came on deck 
with a great roll of canvas and proceeded to manufacture 
a swimming pool on the starboard side of the after part 
of the foredeck, the top coming even with the first class 
deck. 

After dinner I went on deck, selected a cozy place and 
sat there most of the afternoon watching and listening to 
the indigo blue waves and wondering what they said. 



400 PACIFIC OCEAN 

After supper I went to the afterdeck and promenaded 
slowly, almost continuously, for a couple of hours, then 
conversed with my first class passenger and the deck 
engineer till after 9. 

The Japs were having a hilarious time over a game, 
which we watched for a time. A man and woman were 
each blindfolded and one or the other had a pan. A ring 
of the others surrounded them. The one with the pan 
beat on it and the other tried to get hold of the pan. It 
was 10 w r hen I turned in. 

APRIL 13. Arose at 6 and promenaded till breakfast. 
We had eggs for a treat. After breakfast I went back 
to the log. We had only made 295 knots. It was very 
windy on deck — nearly blew the hair out of my head. 
Moved my watch ahead, as usual, this morning. 

I spent most of the time till noon between deck on a 
bench beside one of the big grate doors, which opens out 
into the sea. Wrote and watched the mountainous billows. 
At 10:30 the bell rang for service in the saloon for the 
first class. 

In the afternoon read most of the time. The Filipino 
band gave us a little music. Some young freak in the first 
class was training for some kind of a performance to be 
given in the saloon. Most all the afternoon the Filipinos 
were playing their game of Jacob and Rachel. 

After supper I went to the afterdeck as usual, but did 
not stay long as the wind was fierce. Going down I sat 
down between deck w T ith three of my companions and 
talked till 9, when I went to bed. 

APRIL 14. Arose at 6 after a poor night. It stormed 
so bad the boat rocked and pitched terribly. After break- 
fast I went aft and looked at the log and promenaded a 
little. The wind was still blowing a gale and the waves 
ran mountain high. I then went down to the cabin and 
wrote and read until 10. Came dow T n to see what land 
was in sight. I went up on the deck and discovered away 
in the distance a blurred outline of land. I sat up until 
11 and watched the approach and receding of this land, a 



HONOLULU 401 

small island a few acres in extent, known as Bird Island. 
After this I went down and read until noon. 

After dinner spent an hour on my Honolulu letter, 
then read till 4, when we were all mustered on the after- 
deck for quarantine. It seems there was a government 
doctor on board and the ship 's officers received word by 
wireless to do the job today and save time when we 
landed at Honolulu. By 5 we were gone over and dis- 
missed. I then went below and had supper, afterwards 
going to the afterdeck, and although it was very windy 
and wet, stayed there till 7, when, after writing a letter, 
I went below and watched an entertainment given by the 
steerage passengers in which all the nationalities took 
part — Japs, Chinese, Filipinos, Indians and Russians. 
There were songs, speeches, dances and acrobatic per- 
formances. This lasted till 9 and was very good. I then 
went forward and turned in. 

APRIL 15. Arose at 5. Land is now in sight. I 
wrote until breakfast, which we had early, and then went 
on deck. Was just in time to see the pilot taken on board. 
The city of Honolulu was spread before us. The Wilhel- 
mina, a boat which plies between 'Frisco and this port, 
had just gotten in ahead of us. A narrow channel which 
had been blasted out of the coral rock led to the dock 
where we tied up at 8. 

I went ashore, hunted up some postcards and then to 
the postoffice, where I finished my letter to Detroit and 
wrote and posted some cards. I then went on the street 
that led back toward the hills, but after a w T alk of about a 
mile the sidewalk ended and as the road was very muddy 
I quit. I wandered around until nearly noon, when I 
headed for the boat. 

The place just seems like a California city. The build- 
ings are mostly all new T and modern. There are quite a 
number of streets lined with fine blocks of all kinds, and 
then outside of this are splendid dwellings surrounded by 
cocoanut palms and other fine trees. There are several 
electric lines over which are run splendid cars, manned 
for the most part by Americans. 



402 HONOLULU 

After dinner I boarded a car at the corner of King 
and Alakea streets and rode about five miles out to Capia- 
lani Park. If it had not been for the sign over the car 
I should have easily made myself believe I was in an 
American city. American money is used here and I find 
this is the first place, since leaving New York, where they 
run cars on the American system — fare five cents, short 
or long ride. They also hand out transfers. 

About one half of the ride was along a street lined on 
either side with splendid dwellings. The residence of 
ex-Queen Lilikulano was one we passed. At the end of 
this stretch of residences we made a sharp turn and were 
out in the country. For about half a mile we were cross- 
ing a kind of swamp, a few shanties being built on the dry 
spots. Part of the land had quite a succession of ditches 
and strips of land, both being about equal. Part of this 
was not planted but was run over by a multitude of ducks 
and geese. The rest was planted to bananas. Across this 
we came close to the beach, but the rest of the way we 
followed along parallel to the shore. Grand residences 
in commodious grounds lined this road. Just before 
gaining the park we came upon a grand hotel. Bathing 
and surf-rushing were going on off the beach at the park. 
Men in canoes with outriggers go out about a mile, then 
come in with the breakers. This is a hair-raising per- 
formance. 

After watching awhile I went about a mile farther 
out, then climbed up an almost perpendicular hill, getting 
a fair view from here. New buildings are going up all 
along. After this I went back to the end of the car line 
and then to town, and afterwards got on another car. 
On this was a sign, "Liliha and Emma Streets.' 7 The 
car ran pretty well up one of the great hills. The houses 
along this were smaller and were inhabited by Japs, 
Chinese and Hawaiians. At the end of the car line I 
started to climb and gained the top of one of the smaller 
hills. A very good view was obtained from this point. 
I then walked back up a different street, passing two splen- 
did churches — the St. Andrew's Cathedral and the Central 
Union. The first (Episcopal) is built of light stone and 



HONOLULU 403 

hag several wings besides the main part. On one side 
is a high square tower. The interior is elaborately fitted 
up, the main point being a grand altar and some splendid 
memorial windows. I presume the other church is some 
kind of a union institution. It is a brand-new building 
of stone with a great steeple. 

Coming down to the main part of the town I ran into 
the Y. M. C. A., a large new three-story stone building. 
I went in and looked around a minute, as it was time for 
me to go to the boat. After supper I went back to the 
Y. and read until 7, then went around awhile and finally 
ran into an open-air Salvation Army meeting. I stayed 
until they finished and then followed them to the 
hall, where they had a very good meeting, not getting out 
until 9 :30. On going out I went right down to the ship 
and to bed at 10. 

APRIL 16. Eose at 5 and wrote until we had an early 
breakfast at 6. I then took a stroll along the dock, just 
coming back in time to hear the beginning of the band 
concert of the Royal Hawaiian band. I stayed out in 
the wharf shed listening to them until the gang plank was 
about to be run in. Nearly all the passengers were more 
or less covered with garlands of flowers. I stayed on deck 
and watched the receding land until 11, when our crowd 
had dinner. It was then I saw some of the tremendous 
crowed of more than 400 taken on at Honolulu. 

While we were eating the carpenters were busy at work 
making benches and tables. By 12 everything was ready 
and they sat down in batches of 100. Every bit of avail- 
able space between decks was taken up with their stands 
of berths and tables. I sat down on the hatch and stayed 
there until 2 watching the different outfits. Most of these 
people were Portuguese and behaved like savages. After 
this I went up on deck and finding a shelter from the 
wind, stayed there until supper time. We are now headed 
a little north of east and the wind has changed so that it 
is coming right over the bow as usual. Our bunch ate 
supper in the forward cabin. After supper I again 
watched the crowd eat until all were through, then went 



404 PACIFIC OCEAN 

• 

to the afterdeck where I talked until 8. Going dowri^I 
went ahead into the cabin and read until 9, when I went 
to bed. I then found every bunk in our place occupied. 
Among the lot were a couple of "smart" young Ameri- 
cans. The language they used was horrible. 

APRIL 17. Rose at 6 and walked the deck until 7, 
when I had breakfast. When we were about through one 
of the young fellows who used the fine language the night 
before came in and started abusing the chink who waited 
on us. It made my blood boil and I could not refrain 
from drawing his attention to it. It is a positive shame 
how the English and Americans abuse all these Eastern 
people. After breakfast I went back to the afterdeck 
and looked at the log, but something must have got into 
it, as it did not register right. I then went down to my 
cabin and finished writing up my diary, after which I 
read until noon. After dinner I watched the crowd eat 
until 2, when I went up on the foredeck and read until 
4, when a Japanese missionary came along and conversed 
with me a few minutes, and then I was invited to take part 
in the meeting among the Japs. He then brought down a 
couple of women missionaries and insisted on introducing 
them to me, and then the meeting was held, consuming 
nearly an hour. About twenty-six Japs took part. They 
had just finished when the bell rang for the fire drill, 
after which I went down for supper. 

I had almost forgotten the most interesting event of 
the day. About 11 I heard someone cry that a ship was 
in sight and I hustled to the rail and watched her come 
up. She passed within 200 feet of us and turned out to 
be the Manchuria, a sister ship of this. My, what a blow- 
ing of whistles, ringing of bells, cheering and waving of 
handkerchiefs as there was ! After supper I w T ent up on 
deck for a few minutes, looked at the log and, going below, 
went into the aftercabin and talked until 9, when I took 
a Turkish bath and went to bed. I had a desperate cold 
and thought I could sweat it out. 

APRIL 18. After breakfast went aft, looked at the 
log, only stayed a few minutes and then went down to the 



PACIFIC OCEAN 405 

forecabin and read until dinner. After eating I watched 
the crowd gormandizing until 2. Then read, and talked 
until supper, after which I went up on the afterdeck, 
promenaded a little, looked at the log and then went to 
the forecabin, where I read and conversed until 9, when 
I turned in. 

APRIL 19. Rose just in time for breakfast, then read 
until noon. After dinner went up on deck a few minutes, 
but it was too cold to stay. I then went down below and 
read until supper, then watched the people finish eating; 
afterward talked until 8, when I turned in. 

APRIL 20. Rose at 6 and wrote until breakfast, then 
watched the crowd eat; afterward read until noon. After 
dinner, went right at the reading again and kept at it 
until 4, when I went up on the afterdeck. For the first 
time since w T e entered the Pacific at Kobe the great ocean 
w T as almost as still and placid as a mill pond. When I 
went aft I found, besides the Chinese gamblers' outfits, 
several small boys flying kites from the stern. After 
watching this a little I started promenading and shortly 
several ladies came down from the first class and dis- 
tributed candy to the children. When I saw this I went 
all the way along to the stern and chased all the kids 
forward and there was a small sized row before the ladies 
finished the distribution. At 5 I went down to supper 
and afterwards watched the crowd until they finished 
eating. They were poor creatures and acted as if they 
were starved; After this I went into the forecabin, talked 
until 9, when I turned in. 

APRIL 21. Rose at 6. Walked and talked until we 
had breakfast. This is the day we were supposed to reach 
'Frisco, but on account of the bad weather w T e will be a 
day late. After watching the people feed a few minutes, 
I went to the forecabin and w T rote on my letter to Detroit, 
then up on deck until noon. After eating I w T atched the 
bunch for awhile, then read until 4, when I went up on 
the afterdeck and ran into my missionary friend once 



406 SAN FRANCISCO 

more and after the meeting, which was in progress, had 
a short conversation. On his telling me he expected to 
be in Detroit the latter part of May I gave him my address 
and asked him to hunt me up. I promenaded on deck 
until supper. Immediately after our crowd had supper 
the whole bunch were ordered on af terdeck to pass quar- 
antine. There was such a crowd that it was not possible 
to line them up on deck, so they were run through one 
at a time and looked over. The wind, which had been 
gaining in violence all afternoon, had worked itself into 
a gale by 7. After we got through the quarantine I went 
down to the f orecabin and gave the crowd there a short 
description of my trip. At 10 I went to bed. 

APRIL 22. Arose at 6 and read until breakfast. It 
was stormier last night than at any time since I left Ma- 
nila, and the boat was rolling so that the dishes could 
hardly be kept on the table. 

After breakfast I read until 10, then on the cry of 
"land" I went up on deck and got a glimpse of it. At 
11 we had an early dinner and at 12 we went through the 
Golden Gate and on gaining the lower harbor, anchored 
and waited until the quarantine doctor came aboard and 
gave us a clean bill of health. 

After this, pulled up anchor and drew slowly into the 
company wharf. In the meanwhile we were all herded 
on the after part of the saloon deck and were examined 
by the immigration authorities, and at last at 2 I stepped 
upon the wharf. Having very little baggage to bother 
with, I said good-bye to the rest of the crowd and started 
out for Market street. 

Located the Santa Fe office and found I could go by the 
way of Los Angeles and have a few days lay over. I in- 
tended to go to Los Angeles by boat but this way was 
better. I then walked up Market street to the postoffice, 
where I expected to find some letters waiting me, but was 
grievously disappointed only to find a postcard and the 
April number of a church paper. I then finished my last 
letter to Detroit and also wrote and posted some cards. 

I then strolled slowly back to the foot of Market street, 



OAKLAND 407 

looking at the fine buildings, and went into a couple of de- 
partment stores and looked around a little. I then hunted 
up a hotel and, not feeling well, I stayed in and wrote 
and read until 9 :30. 

APRIL 23. Arose at 8 after a bad night, having a 
touch of fever. Not feeling hungry, I went right to the 
ferry house and got a boat for Oakland. 

On landing there I wandered around until noon, had 
dinner at 1, took an electric train for the ferry, thence 
back to 'Frisco. 

They were just putting the finishing touch to a beautiful 
city hall. It is built of white stone. The main part is 
four stories, then the center about half the size of the lower 
part runs up another ten stories. This is a very beautiful 
building. 

On getting back to 'Frisco I went around a little, and 
then boarded a car for the Exposition grounds. This was 
a long ride — took nearly an hour. 

The car stopped at the entrance to the Presidio park, 
a government reservation. A piece of ground containing 
about 200 acres running down to the water front is to be 
used for the exposition. 

A force of men and teams is now busy grading and ex- 
cavating. The soldiers have a ball ground here, and I 
watched a game for about an hour. Then went right 
through the park and then on to Golden Gate park. At 
one end was a high hill, surmounted by a huge high cross. 

I climbed to the top of this and had a grand view of 
the city, harbor and ocean. After this clambered down, 
caught a car back to Market street, a few blocks from the 
ferry. 

I then went back to my hotel, got a parcel I had left 
there and went to another place. After paying for my 
room I had some supper, then back, where I wrote and 
read until 8, when I went to a small mission and enjoyed 
the service until nearly 10, when I went to bed. 

APRIL 24. After breakfast I started up Market street 
and ran across one of my roommates on the boat; talked 



408 SAN FRANCISCO 

to him a few minutes then took him to an address he was 
trying to find. After bidding him good-bye I went out 
Market to Golden Gate avenue, going along a few blocks 
to the Y., a splendid, brand-new building. Here I read 
for a while, and cut across to Market street, and came 
across a couple of fine buildings — the City Hall and Hall 
of Records. Then made a last trip to the postoffice, then 
down to the United States mint, a building I visited more 
than seventeen years ago. Here I waited for half an hour 
while a party was gathered, and at 11 :30 we were taken in 
hand and shown through the building. We were first 
taken to where copper was being smelted, the proper 
amount of alloy added and then cast into bars in another 
room. "We saw employees take these ingots, run them 
through different machines until they were worked down 
to the required thinness. We were then shown a room 
where two million five hundred thousand dollars' worth 
of gold bars reposed. We were then taken to another 
room where Filipino money of different kinds was being 
coined. This finished the tour. I then went down to the 
restaurant near the ferry. Just after coming out I ran 
across another of my roommates on the boat, a Scotch- 
man, and after standing talking a few minutes I guided 
hirn^to the Flood building and after he had finished some 
business took him to the Mint, and we conversed until the 
guide was ready, and I said good-bye. I then went to 
the hotel near the ferry and read until time to go over 
to catch the train boat. At 4 it started, and after forty 
minutes' ride we landed at the train which immediately 
started for Los Angeles. It was very warm and I took 
off my coat and pushed up the window. I then kept my 
eye glued to the passing scene until it was too dark to see. 
Our train was extra fast and we only stopped at a few 
large places. Up to midnight Stockton, Fresno, Hanford 
and Bakersfield were passed. While I could see we passed 
some very rough beautiful scenery. Hundreds of small 
orchards and farms were strung along the way. 

APRIL 25. Did not get any sleep to amount to any- 
thing. About 2, at Teahachpi, we reached the highest 



LOS ANGELES 409 

point, over 3,000 feet. We arrived at Barstow at 4, here 
branched off the main line for Los Angeles, some time after 
12 got to sleep and did not waken until 5. At this time 
we were in the most mountainous district, which continued 
to within a few miles of San Bernardino, where we ar- 
rived at 7. From there on, a distance of 60 miles, our 
way was through fine orange orchards. There are at least 
10,000 bushels of fruit lying on the ground, besides a great 
number of trees killed entirely, and there are a succession 
of small towns, every two or three miles, until Pasadena 
was reached. My, what a beautiful place this is. The 
train ran right through one of the streets and I had a 
good opportunity to observe its beauties. At 9 we landed 
at Los Angeles, and I strolled to the main part of the city. 
Just before reaching the main street I stepped into a res- 
taurant and had breakfast, then a few blocks across to the 
Y. M. C. A. building. This, next to Detroit, is the finest 
and largest building I have seen since I started. A gen- 
tleman was kind enough to take me through the building. 
It is certainly a fine structure. Los Angeles has the 
largest membership of any city in the world. 

After writing a few cards I located a place where I 
thought a young lady lived, whom I had known in Detroit. 
I went down along Broadway. This street, as well as Main 
and Spring, is lined with splendid impressive business 
houses of all kinds. Choicest of all the buildings were 
situated on this thoroughfare, viz., the City Hall and Court 
Houses, both magnificent buildings. Coming to Temple 
street I turned down to the postoffice, another grand build- 
ing on Main street. I then w r ent through a couple of de- 
partment stores, bought something to eat, then took a car 
for Westchester, where I expected to find Miss Hilborn, 
my Detroit friend. This was a long ride out Broadway 
to Pico, which is the same as Thirteenth street, and then 
had a fine view for about three miles of splendid residences. 
I located the place on Westchester and found the house 
vacant. Upon inquiry at the next place, I found the peo- 
ple had just left the day before and I obtained the name 
of the family and found out that the head of the house was 
a doctor. 



410 BURBANK 

I then went back to town and spent a couple of hours 
going to different offices trying to find this doctor, but 
without success. After this I went to the Pacific Electric 
station and just got a car for Burbank at 4. This place is 
10 miles north of Los Angeles. On arriving I inquired for 
0. C. Lane and was directed to a garage and found the 
proprietor was a namesake of mine and a second cousin. 
I conversed with him for a few minutes, then was directed 
to his father's ranch, about a mile from town. Found the 
lady of the house at home, went in for a few minutes, had 
supper and conversed until 10, when I turned in. 

APRIL 26. Arose at 6 after a splendid night's rest. 
After breakfast Mr. Lane went to the city and I con- 
versed with my cousin until 11. 

I then took a long walk, coming upon an orchard where 
they were irrigating. Had a conversation with the owner 
and did not go back until 12. After dinner I read and 
conversed with Mrs. Lane until 5, when I took a walk 
to the old place where they used to live, about half a mile 
away. 

They lived here when I was in this country seventeen 
years ago. I found the house vacant and pretty rickety 
looking. And coming to the back found a camping place 
for "Bos" and (two gentlemen of the road) sitting on the 
back porch. 

I had quite a long talk with them about conditions 
throughout the country. Got back to the house at 6. Mr. 
Lane had returned and after supper we went out on the 
front porch and listened to the phonograph until 10 and 
then went to bed. 

APRIL 27. Arose at 6 after another splendid night's 
rest, and after breakfast conversed with Mr. Lane until 
9, when he started in his auto to Los Angeles to bring out 
some of his folks to spend the day. 

I then went out on the porch and wrote up my diary, 
which I had been neglecting. I had just finished when 
Mr. Lane got back with his brother and wife, and her father 
and mother and his mother, and I was busy then the rest 
of the day telling my experiences. 



LOS ANGELES 411 

About 5 my cousin's son and wife and baby came, and 
shortly after Mr. Lane took his first bunch home, but the 
last comers stayed until 9, and after they left Mr. Lane 
and I stayed up until 12 talking. 

APEIL 28. Arose at 6 and had breakfast, then a last 
few words, and away to catch the electric car for Los An- 
geles. On coming to the end of the car line, having plenty 
of time, walked to the station, buying some provisions on 
the way. 

At 9 we started on the long trip to Chicago. The sev- 
enty miles to San Bernardino were mostly through the 
finest orange district in the state. This was a different 
branch than the one I came over from San Francisco. 

Eiverside, one of the greatest orange districts in the 
state, was one of the cities we passed through. From San 
Bernardino on it was desert right through to The Needles, 
the last town in California. 

Here we crossed the Colorado river into Arizona and it 
was after dark and too late for me to see any more. I 
went in the smoking car and stayed, although my ticket 
entitled me to a seat in the chair car, but I felt too shabby 
for that anyway, and there was plenty of room in the 
smoker. 

APEIL 29. Arose at 5. The first thing I did was to 
put my watch on an hour, as the time had moved ahead. 
We have been gradually getting higher and just after I 
got up I saw a board which said, "The Continental Di- 
vide/' This was 7,000 feet above sea level. Then we 
slipped down till where we stopped for breakfast at 
Winslow it was less than 4,000 feet. At the principal 
places along the line are hotels and lunch rooms run by 
Fred Harvey which are world noted. All through this 
higher country there was quite a bit of timber, but we 
are still in the desert. At 10 we crossed the line into 
New Mexico. Here we had reached an elevation of 6,800 
feet, then down again at a place called Isletto, 15 miles 
from Albuquerque, we crossed the Eio Grande and fol- 
lowed the valley of this river for about 75 miles. A cer- 



412 CHICAGO 

tain amount of farming is carried on here. Albuquerque 
was the largest place in the two states. About all the 
houses are adobe and inhabited by Mexicans. 

From this last city w T e started to climb once more and 
at Larny, where we had supper, had got up 6,500 feet. 
Here a great ten-wheeled driver hooked on behind, and 
in the next ten miles we went up 1,000 feet more. The 
highest point reached in the whole trip was gained at 
Raton tunnel, 7,600 feet. This was in New Mexico, just 
at the Colorado line. 

APRIL 30. Arose at 5. "We were now in Colorado, in 
a prairie country, which got better the farther we went. 
By keeping a close watch I saw the monument that 
marked the boundary between Colorado and Kansas. We 
passed this just at 6. It was not until 9 that we stopped 
for breakfast at Dodge City. 

As we had about half an hour at all these stops I had 
a chance to lay in some more provisions. I then pushed my 
watch ahead for the last time. We were now in a farming 
country, which looked fine after the desert. The fair- 
sized towns of Hutchinson, Newton and Emporia were 
passed and at 6 :30 we drew into Topeka. We stayed here 
thirty minutes for supper, but didn't see much of the 
place, as the station was on the outskirts of the city. We 
passed Lawrence at 7, and arrived at Kansas City at 9. 
As we only stopped here a few minutes I did not leave the 
train. 

In the early morning an Italian family, accompanied 
by a single man, got on our car. The single man had a 
cork leg and could hardly walk. I made myself useful 
by bringing him water several times. 

On leaving Kansas City a young fellow sat beside me 
and said he was a Bohemian from Chicago, and we then 
had quite a conversation about both Bohemia and Chicago. 

At 11 I turned in. 

MAY 1. Arose at 5 after poor sleep. In the mean- 
while we had passed through part of Missouri and a cor- 
ner of Iowa, and we were now in Illinois — a beautiful farm- 



DETROIT 413 

ing country. We passed through Galesburg, Chillicothe, 
Streator and Joliet before reaching Chicago at 10. At 
Streator, which is 90 miles from Chicago, a man came in 
who said he was born in Chicago and had never been 
more than this ninety miles away in his life. I then 
started to tell him something of my great trip. We talked 
steadily until Chicago was reached. The Bohemian, this 
man and myself then exchanged addresses and said good- 
bye. I stayed behind to help the crippled Italian, carry- 
ing his suitcase. I took him to a seat, found out about 
his train and then sat down and read until 11, when it 
was time to help my friend to his train. 

Then I went out and hunted up a restaurant, had din- 
ner, then walked along State to Washington and took 
in the splendid new buildings that had been built since 
I was here last. I then went down to the Public Library 
and read until 4, when I went to the elevated station and 
got a train for the northwest part of the city, where an 
old chum of mine, Mr. Carroll, lived, where I expected to 
have a nice little visit, only to find out, on gaining the 
house, that his wife had received a telegram announcing 
the dying condition of his father, and that they would 
leave that night for Detroit and Ontario. 

As I did not like the idea of not having any visit with 
him, and there was no reason for staying in Chicago, I de- 
cided to go with them, and we boarded a train at 12. 

MAY 2. Spent most of the time from 12 until our ar- 
rival in Detroit at 8 talking about my trip. I then went 
with them to the Interurban station and stayed until they 
boarded a car for Marine City, and thus ended my great 
trip. 



TRANSPORTATION COST 

Miles Expense 

Detroit to Cleveland 176 $2.55 

Cleveland to Pittsburgh 148 3.00 

Pittsburgh to Washington 369 8.00 

Washington to Arlington and return 14 .20 

Washington to Mt. Vernon and return 30 .75 

Washington to Baltimore 40 1.00 

Baltimore to Philadelphia 80 2.40 

Philadelphia to New York 100 1.50 

New York to Queenstown (boat) 3100 35.00 

Oueenstown to Cork 14 .16 

Cork to Blarney 5 .10 

Blarney to Mallow 15 .30 

Mallow to Killarney and return 81 .98 

Mallow to Waterford 75 1.48 

Waterford to Enniscorthy 39 .78 

Enniscorthy to Ballymena and return 9 Walked 

Enniscorthy to Dublin 78 1.54 

Dublin to Lucan 8 .12 

Lucan to Maynooth 7 Walked 

Maynooth to Atheny 98 1.96 

Atheny to Galway and return 26 .50 

Atheny to Sligo 87 1.74 

Sligo to Manorhamilton . 23 .46 

Manorhamilton to Enniskillen 25 .50 

Enniskillen to Londonderry 60 1.20 

Londonderry to Ballymena 61 1.22 

Ballymena to Belfast 34 .58 

Belfast to Ayr, Scotland (boat) 82 .84 

Ayr toJPaisley 30 .60 

Paisley to Glasgow . 8 .12 

Glasgow to Dunoon and return (boat) 60 .28 

Glasgow" to Stirling 30 .58 

Stirling to Perth 33 .66 

Perth to Inverness 118 2.28 

Inverness to Aberdeen (boat) 150 1.20 

Aberdeen to Montrose 40 .81 

Montrose to Arbroath 13 .25 

Arbroath to Dundee 17 .33 

Dundee to Edinburgh 51 1.01 

Edinburgh to Leith and return 5 .04 

Edinburgh to Abbottsford and return 85 .85 

Leith to Copenhagen, Denmark (boat) 700 7.65 

Copenhagen to Balerup and return 22 .24 

Copenhagen to Helsingborg, Sweden (boat) 40 .27 

Helsingborg to Halmstad 60 .97 

Halmstad to Stockholm 425 4.80 

Stockholm to St. Petersburg, Russia, and return 1175 12.48 

Stockholm to Christiania, Norway 375 3.70 

Christiania to Hull, England (boat) 700 7.38 

Hull to Leeds 54 .54 

414 



Miles Expense 

Leeds to Bradford 9 .12 

Bradford to Liverpool 76 .78 

Liverpool to Isle of Man and return (Douglass boat) . 160 .96 

Liverpool to Manchester 37 .60 

Manchester to Sheffield ' 41 .60 

Sheffield to Ilkeston 60 .62 

Ilkeston to Nottingham 8 .16 

Nottingham to Birmingham 51 1.02 

Birmingham to Stratford and return 55 .72 

Birmingham to Bristol 92 .84 

Bristol to Cardiff, Wales, and return (boat) 60 .60 

Bristol to Bath 12 .23 

Bath to Swindom 30 .59 

Swindom to Oxford 36 .69 

Oxford to London 63 .90 

London to Greenwich and return 10 .12 

London to Crystal Palace and return 24 .12 

London to Rotterdam, Holland (boat) 183 3.12 

Rotterdam to The Hague '. 15 .18 

The Hague to Amsterdam 50 .42 

Amsterdam to Zandam and return (boat) 10 .06 

Amsterdam to Haarlem 18 .18 

Haarlem to Leyden 17 .14 

Leyden to The Hague 14 .12 

The Hague to Scheveningen and return 7 .10 

The Hague to Rotterdam 18 .18 

Rotterdam to Antwerp, Belgium (boat) 100 .50 

Antwerp to Ghent 34 .44 

Ghent to Brussels 38 .44 

Brussels to Waterloo and return 25 .23 

Brussels to Paris, France 192 2.97 

Paris to Dijon 202 3.12 

Dijon to Dole 30 .46 

Dole to Mouchard 21 .32 

Mouchard to Pontalier 41 1.14 

Pontalier to Berne, Switzerland 76 1.12 

Berne to Lucerne 61 1.00 

Lucerne to Zurich 41 .61 

Zurich to Basle 61 .93 

Basle to Strassburg, Germany 90 .70 

Strassburg to Karlsruhe 40 .30 

Karlsruhe to Heidelberg 53 .42 

Heidelberg to Darmstadt 38 .31 

Darmstadt to Frankfort 17 .15 

Frankfort to Mayence 23 .19 

Mayence to Bingen 12 .14 

Bingen to Coblenz 46 .32 

Coblenz to Bonn 37 .29 

Bonn to Cologne 20 .15 

Cologne to Dusseldorf 25 .21 

415 



Miles Expense 

Dusseldorf to Essen 27 .22 

Essen to Bremen 161 1.25 

Bremen to Hamburg 73 .58 

Hamburg to Berlin 180 1.40 

Berlin to Potsdam and return 30 .22 

Berlin to Leipsic 123 .80 

Leipsic to Dresden 83 .56 

Dresden to Prague, Bohemia 121 1.39 

Prague to Vienna, Austria 255 2.46 

Vienna to Trieste 368 4.20 

Trieste to Venice, Italy (boat) 64 1.08 

Venice to Milan 178 2.90 

Milan to Florence via Bologna 218 3.68 

Florence to Rome 194 3.40 

Rome to Naples 156 2.60 

Naples to Pompeii and return 34 .31 

Naples to Brindisi 254 3.95 

Brindisi to Patras, Greece (boat) 300 3.60 

Patras to Athens 200 2.00 

Athens to Piraeus and return 10 Walked 

Athens to Piraeus 5 .10 

Athens to Alexandria, Egypt (boat) 540 3.20 

Alexandria to Port Said 230 1.75 

Port Said to Jaffa, Palestine (boat) 134 2.00 

Jaffa to Jerusalem 54 1.13 

Jerusalem to Bethlehem and return 12 .20 

Jerusalem to Bethany and Apostle's Spring and return . 10 Walked 

Jerusalem to Jaffa 54 1.13 

Jaffa to Port Said, Egypt (boat) 134 1.80 

Port Said to Cairo and return 260 2.40 

Port Said to Bombay, India, via Aden (boat) 3050 3L80 

Bombay to Delhi 953 2.84 

Delhi to Lucknow 306 .98 

Lucknow to Calcutta 616 2.09 

Calcutta to Madras 1032 4.85 

Madras to Tuticorin 444 1.30 

Tuticorin to Colombo, Ceylon (boat) 150 1.75 

Colombo via Penang to Singapore, Straits Settlements 

(boat) 1650 10.30 

Singapore via Ilo Ilo to Manila, Philippines (boat) .... 1600 13.40 
Manila via Hongkong and Shanghai, China, Naga- 
saki, Kobe and Yokohama, Japan and Honolulu to 

San Francisco 8200 85.00 

Hongkong to Canton and return (boat) 200 .80 

Yokohama to Tokio and return 60 .27 

San Francisco to Oakland and return (boat) 12 .20 

San Francisco to Chicago via Los Angeles 2867 49.95 

Los Angeles to Burbank and return 20 .40 

Chicago to Detroit 285 5.50 

Total 37,460 $408.68 

416 



